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Kinarfi

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Been looking through old pages and so far I found Fox shocks, but the frame was modified, and King shocks, the price was shocking, any one know the price or part # for Fox shocks or any other good shocks for stockers? Got a leaky rear shock.

Kinarfi

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Kinarfi,

Fox makes a direct bolt on with the correct measurements. Flatbed was adding travel but if you are happy with the current, just upgrade with 8.5" Fox 2.0 shocks.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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Kinarfi,

Fox makes a direct bolt on with the correct measurements. Flatbed was adding travel but if you are happy with the current, just upgrade with 8.5" Fox 2.0 shocks.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Rocmoc, on those shocks do they come with springs or do I use the stock springs and do you have any idea how the effect the ride.

Thanks,

Kinarfi

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You have to replace with new springs. You want to anyway as the two spring/shock setup is much much better. It is also better to be soft than hard as you can adjust hardness into the shock but you are stuck with a spring that is too stiff.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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who do we buy these Fox shocks from???? When last I talked to Joyner about these, I was told they weren't going to be getting any more of them in. A.

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From what I have read, for the stock set up we need an 8.5 ' travel, does any one know the other specs such as eye to eye, compressed measurement, extended measurement, spring rates, assuming two springs per shock and any other information I may not have mentioned. I think I may go with F.A.O. shocks and them file a report, but it would be nice to be able to give them the correct info.

Thanks

Kinarfi

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A. I just realised I might of giving you a dumber answer. I thought you were referring to F.O.A Shocks but just noticed you said F.A.O in which case it would be referring to me as a Forgetful Arrogant & Obsolete.

Cheers Mike.

One of the nice thing about being a moderator is getting to mess with other's posts. That said, my comment is

We all have our problems, don't we. :lol::P

And when you made the post originally, you put F. O. L. and that worried me as to whether it was a typo or not, but I fixed it for you.

Kinarfi

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Kinarfi,

All that data is in one of the shock post since the beginning of the year. I posted some of it and flatbed posted the rest.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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Old information at:

http://www.utvboard.com/shock-brand-names-t774.html#

http://www.utvboard.com/Shock-Info-t452.html

I think I'm leaning toward the F.O.A. Shocks, but 12 inches of travel is way more than I can use in stock configuration, I measured my old blown shock and it only around 4 1/2 inches of travel, even the 8.5 2.0 shock would be way more that what I have.

What do I do with the extra travel? lay the down, put on limit straps? I really would like some advice here.

Thanks

Kinarfi

Or do I take it to Lenny's Place?

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On the fox shocks the valve boddy is shorter than the stock shocks, if you wanted to keep the same travel you could put a stop inside the shock on the extension side to make it not so long, you have to be using more than 4.5 inches of your stock shock. suspened the car and measure how much of the shaft is showing. I put rubber snubers around the shaft to keep the suspension from bottoming out and pulling the shafts of the rear-end. Fox shocks are the only way to go.

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Old information at:

http://www.utvboard.com/shock-brand-names-t774.html#

I think I'm leaning toward the F.O.A. Shocks, but 12 inches of travel is way more than I can use in stock configuration, I measured my old blown shock and it only around 4 1/2 inches of travel, even the 8.5 2.0 shock would be way more that what I have.

What do I do with the extra travel? lay the down, put on limit straps? I really would like some advice here.

Thanks

Kinarfi

Or do I take it to Lenny's Place?

One thing about the FOA shocks is that you cannot tune them yourself like Fox shocks. You have to send them back to the manufacture I beleive in Las Vegas. Before deciding on shocks do a little hands on research on your Trooper.First off I would do the rear first then the front later on. Remove the rear wheel and rear shock. Have the other back wheel off the ground preferrably with the wheel off and do not have the rear diff locked. Now lift up one side at the hub while turning the axel. When the axel is at it's limits, you will feel it sort of catch. Thats at the inner CV joint, the axel coming out of it is to the side enough so the axel starts to catch into the groves for the CV balls. Doing this both up and down will give you an idea of what travel you have available. Basically it will be 14-1/2". Moving the bottom shock mount is not that difficult and I can help you with that. Now start looking at shocks, primarily the pin center to pin center dimensions for both the shock fully extended and collapsed. Shock dimensions are on the Fox site and the other sites too. Your looking for a 2" diameter shock at 8-1/2" of stroke. This is what Flatbed is using I beleive. With that shock, you can get suspension travel from what you have now all the way up to 14-1/2" which is what Flatbed has. I'm using a 10 stroke but, I always try lots of different ideas so the 10" gives me extra flexibility. Once you determine what travel you want to shoot for then look at where the bottom shock mount would need to be. Moving it there shouldn't be too hard. If your shock has too much travel for your travel, just use limit straps which are also easy to install. YOu should be able to pick up extra travel without moving the bottom mounts. Once geometry is determined then spring rates can be calculated. Use a dual spring setup. Flatbed knows a lot more about this then I do and maybe he will see some gaps in my thinking and add to the above or correct it. In the mean time look at http://race-dezert.com/home/ classified section for used shocks. I picked up one of my pairs on this site. You don't need remote resevoir shocks but there ok to use too. You don't ride hard enough to really need them.

Lenny

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Thanks kinarfi, I must of had a Minties moment (kiwi lingo) & that would make the L stand for losing it.

Lenny, I have a Spring Rate Calculator for you. The link is http://f-o-a.com/calculator.html . It could be just a rough guide, I really don't know however Flatbed will see you right.

This tyre size Calculator is also handy for the change with your Speedo if you have up or down graded your stock tire size. http://www.4wdbits.co.nz/tyrecalculator.aspx

Cheers Mike.

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On the fox shocks the valve body is shorter than the stock shocks, if you wanted to keep the same travel you could put a stop inside the shock on the extension side to make it not so long, you have to be using more than 4.5 inches of your stock shock. suspend the car and measure how much of the shaft is showing. I put rubber snubbers around the shaft to keep the suspension from bottoming out and pulling the shafts of the rear-end. Fox shocks are the only way to go.

Pretty sure I'm only using about 4.5" of shock travel, maybe a little more. The last shock I blew, I kept and cut it apart and took photos of it and use it for information reasons.

2178153650104282158pJdwqs_th.jpg 2730410370104282158pXPAHN_th.jpg 2616138560104282158OFKpLb_th.jpg

But if the extended length is the same, then I get more upward travel.

Flatbed, you say the8.5 2.0s will bolt right on? When I go to http://www.foxracingshox.com/sidexside/shocks/20_PIGGYBACK, they list 3 shock, coil-over, Disc coil-over, and RC Coil Over, I suppose the way I drive, the coil-overs would probably be fine, what springs would you recommend for a fairly conservative driver?

Haven't found any prices yet.

Thanks,

Kinarfi

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shock guy called today. 23.35 " long 2.0 shocks with 8" of stroke with springs, These are fox shocks @ 285.00 apiece. I was very busy when he called, but i think these have 2 springs per shock

Flatbed, Do you happen to remember the number, name, or anything like that about these. It's been almost a year, wonder how much they are now?

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Keep in mind that as you move your suspension travel around, you must consider fender clearance when at full bump. I had to remove my fenders.

Lenny

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I have it wrote down somewhere on this site, i believe i am running a 600 and 400 on the rear, it might be a 450, when i get home tonight i will try to remember and look. for sure you want the 600s, i tried running a 350 with the 600 because i had them, it was way to soft, when you turned going fast the back would all of a sudden law over and start to turn the car. Now that i am thinking about it i am all most sure i have 600 and 450s in the back. once again this is the best thing you can do is to get the stock shocks off the car. it makes a huge difference in how the car feels, the ride is so much better and so much safer.

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I have it wrote down somewhere on this site, i believe i am running a 600 and 400 on the rear, it might be a 450, when i get home tonight i will try to remember and look. for sure you want the 600s, i tried running a 350 with the 600 because i had them, it was way to soft, when you turned going fast the back would all of a sudden law over and start to turn the car. Now that i am thinking about it i am all most sure i have 600 and 450s in the back. once again this is the best thing you can do is to get the stock shocks off the car. it makes a huge difference in how the car feels, the ride is so much better and so much safer.

I am new to tis site hope I get this rite. I wanted to know if you think the stock shocks would work with dual rate springs.

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NO, You will have a hard time finding springs to fit corectly, also the valving is bad. You want a shock that you can adjust the valving. Plus you need a quality shock.

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IMHO, the Joyner stock shock is junk compared to Fox and peers. BUT the Stock shocks are incredible compared to stock auto/truck shocks. I would not waste the money putting new springs on the Joyner shocks. Save it for when you can replace with an aftermarket shock.

Now, IMHO the stock shocks are not the first upgrade I would do. Bigger Rims & Tires are! The stock shocks are fine until you really start pushing the Trooper to the limits.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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