Quantcast
Jump to content

R-2 high rev


Chalkstk

Recommended Posts

Hi All,

Still not counting chickies, but day two and it idles fine. The only thing I have done different is putting pedal to the medal before ignition. I know this is not necessary for fuel injection, but if it works, I'm happy. I removed throttle sensor and IAC, and sprayed both internaly with contact spray. So far so good. Thx for everybody's input. Learning allot. And here I thought I was just a "turn key" kind of guy...................:)

Lenny,

Does IAC stand for "internal air control"?

Thx,

Frankie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hi All,

Still not counting chickies, but day two and it idles fine. The only thing I have done different is putting pedal to the medal before ignition. I know this is not necessary for fuel injection, but if it works, I'm happy. I removed throttle sensor and IAC, and sprayed both internaly with contact spray. So far so good. Thx for everybody's input. Learning allot. And here I thought I was just a "turn key" kind of guy...................:)

Lenny,

Does IAC stand for "internal air control"?

Thx,

Frankie

Frankie,

Congrats,must feel like a weights been taken off your shoulders.We will all keep our fingers crossed.Keep us posted and dont run off from us and not stay in touch.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Lenny

Hi All,

Still not counting chickies, but day two and it idles fine. The only thing I have done different is putting pedal to the medal before ignition. I know this is not necessary for fuel injection, but if it works, I'm happy. I removed throttle sensor and IAC, and sprayed both internaly with contact spray. So far so good. Thx for everybody's input. Learning allot. And here I thought I was just a "turn key" kind of guy...................:)

Lenny,

Does IAC stand for "internal air control"?

Thx,

Frankie

It's referred to by a couple of different names. IAC is for Idle air controller. Some may say Idle air actuator. Internal air control works for me.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Frankie,

Congrats,must feel like a weights been taken off your shoulders.We will all keep our fingers crossed.Keep us posted and dont run off from us and not stay in touch.

Yeah Rick,

Hope this is it. And I will stay on board. Wish I had a T-2 instead. That xtra cylinder and cc's must run pretty good. Never had the R-2 above 60. Tachs pretty high. Would have been great to have an OD gear for highway use. Oh, well, be content with what we have B)

Frankie

-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Lenny,

If problem begins again, do you think it is the IAC and can one be obtained? Rough $?

Thx

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After thinking about what Lenny said about the IAC (referred to as DLA on page 106 of the Owner's Manual / Parts Manual T2, T4 with a picture of a slightly older Yellow Trooper like mine on the front page, Winch is down low,) is that after you get started and every thing is idling just fine, disconnect the IAC plug and the it has to stay where it is. It is my guess that it readjusts every time you start it. I'm going to undo mine the next time I get it started and see if it starts better after that.

Kinarfi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Lenny

After thinking about what Lenny said about the IAC (referred to as DLA on page 106 of the Owner's Manual / Parts Manual T2, T4 with a picture of a slightly older Yellow Trooper like mine on the front page, Winch is down low,) is that after you get started and every thing is idling just fine, disconnect the IAC plug and the it has to stay where it is. It is my guess that it readjusts every time you start it. I'm going to undo mine the next time I get it started and see if it starts better after that.

Kinarfi

If yours is starting hard, you might try increasing the pressure by adjusting the fuel regulator. The engine is cold and the gas doesn't evaporate as quickly and thus it's necessary to have a ricker mixture or more gas to evaporate to get a proper gas vapor-oxygen mixture that will ignite. If the mixture is too lean, it just won't ignite.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Lenny

Do you know what the stock setting is for fuel pressure and what setting would you advise?

I think the manual shows 42-44 PSI. The guy in Arizonia that puts turbos on Troopers said it should be about 52. Here's the thing. When an engine is cold the gas doesn't evaporate as quickly. As a result, to get proper gas vapor/air ratios for ignition, the computer richens the mixture. With more gas, there is more to evaporate from and thus provides more vapor. If your starting hard, it is possible that a little higher fuel regulator setting would help. Hard cold starting could also be a result of a bad coolant temperature sensor. I don't know what the computer sees if the sensor is bad. I believe that the sensor has a resistance circuit that increases in resistance as temperature increases. The computer sends the sensor, I believe, a 5v signal and the sensor sends back something less than that depending on temperature. If the computer sees high voltage as hotter then if the sensor circuit was shorted, it might send back a voltage signaling the computer that the engine is hotter than it really is. If the computer sees a warmed up engine, it won't richen the mixture for starting like it would on a cold engine. As a result, the gas vapor/air mixture could be too lean for proper ignition. There may be some other sinarios that others can add with explinations so we all can learn from their input.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thx All,

I finally am looking at hatched chickens. The R-2 idles fine. It was a sticky IAC sensor. After a year and a 1/2, I can finally chalk up some miles. Thx for everyone's input.:)

Frankie

Fantastic, guess I know what I'm gonna try next. My throttle body was full of oil when I took it apart, I cleaned my IAC but only with alcohol, I will also do ohms testing on it too.

Again, congrats and we're all glad to hear we helped someone.

Kinarfi

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thx All,

I finally am looking at hatched chickens. The R-2 idles fine. It was a sticky IAC sensor. After a year and a 1/2, I can finally chalk up some miles. Thx for everyone's input.:)

Frankie

Frankie.

Great to hear it.Now you have a new proplem,putting all those lost miles on her(LOL).Have fun and maybe we will see you around there sometime.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Fantastic, guess I know what I'm gonna try next. My throttle body was full of oil when I took it apart, I cleaned my IAC but only with alcohol, I will also do ohms testing on it too.

Again, congrats and we're all glad to hear we helped someone.

Kinarfi

I originally pulled plug, cleaned with contact spray and then dielectric grease. Didn't help till I pulled sensor and contact sprayed the bullet looking plunger. Must have been loosing proper contect internally is my guess. Thank God fro small miracles and guys like you on this great forum.

Frankie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By donwan
      I have a part that fell over to the exhaust and burned the harness up. I can't figure out what it is. Does anyone know what the start relay looks like? The part I can't figure out has 4 wires, a red power, a green and brown wire, a black and unsure what the 4th color was. Anyone have a clue?
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By Onebad54
      Has anyone solved the 750 Hisun Sector shifter problem?
    • By MOTORHEAD1959
      ATV just clicks when trying to start. Battery is good, has a new starter, and all the wiring looks good. any suggestions on where to go from here? thanks 
    • By AlaskaTrail
      Hi All,
      New to UTVs and recently accuired a ut400 from our local Alaska Commercial Co. and had a questions regarding the transmission fluid. I have had a squeeling noise, sounds like a teapot, that recently started after being driven for a few minutes. The manual says to change the fluid at 500 miles, so I was thinking maybe its just time for this to be changed. Other then that I cannot find any information regarding the type used. While reading through these forums, I seen someone put that the transmission is lubricated with the engine oil. Is this true? If not what should I be using and where can I find the information to change it out? Any input on this would be greatly appretiated!
      Thanks in advance



×
×
  • Create New...