Dave needed master electrical switch Key
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By Nypto
I just bought a new Hisun 750 sxs. I drove one mile and it just died. No power at all. Battery is 12.8v. Found no blown fuses. No power to the panel, no nothing. Problem for me is I bought 160 acres near big bend. Trying to build a house. Got blown up in 'Nam . Can't walk much. Scared I'm way out and it fails again. I heard something about a brake switch, but I have no idea where it might be.
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By moonrover
Mine is overheated/burned/melt at connection with its wire connector, parts are ordered to replace both them. This seems to be a common issue, and some of you already replaced it. I right now just connect the wires, so the fan runs all the time whenever the initiation is on, but it's better let fan runs as needed with a working temperature sensor/switch.
Question: Does some coolant come out by removing the switch/sensor from radiator? Or, is the threaded hole all the way inside radiator? If the answer is yes, I want to drain or extract some coolant to make its level below the sensor before replacing it, so I don't make a mess with coolant spilled out
Thank you.
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By DJ Brusenski
checked all the fuses and relays, I can jump start it with the key in the on position. it will not key start need some help, thanks
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By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
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By bikermike
Since it is a royal pain to close the front hood, I went to add a charger wire so I don't have to worry about the hood, I found the screw on the positive post rusted . this utv is 11 months old. and since it's a Philips head, it was impossible to loosen . had to use vise grips.
replaced the screw with an hex bolt
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