Upgraded Diff

[Jarrad 1]

Here is pictured of the upgraded diff after a year of hard use by crawlinT2

[Kinarfi 53]

Ick, I remember when mine looked like that.

[Lenny 21]

Here is pictured of the upgraded diff after a year of hard use by crawlinT2

What does it say on the heads of the bolts? Should say something like 8.8 or 12.9. If it's 8.8, the bolts were not upgraded. Is there any signs of the diff being re-shimmed for proper running clearances or did the whole thing just feel sloppy?

Lenny

[Jarrad 1]

What does it say on the heads of the bolts? Should say something like 8.8 or 12.9. If it's 8.8, the bolts were not upgraded. Is there any signs of the diff being re-shimmed for proper running clearances or did the whole thing just feel sloppy?

Lenny

I did not take it apart CrawlinT2 did, he is in Alabama, but he said he took the bolts to a local bolt shop and they told him they were grade 5 or so bolts. When I get to the shop in the morning I am going to disassemble one of these new upgraded diffs and check bolts in them. I have personally checked backlash on all the ones I have sent out and they seem to be right on the money. This diff was sent to him well over a year agobefore TJU went out of buisness, so it may not have been as upgraded as the new ones are? I will keep you posted as I break one down and see whats inside it this coming week.

Jarrad

[CrawlnT2 1]

What does it say on the heads of the bolts? Should say something like 8.8 or 12.9. If it's 8.8, the bolts were not upgraded. Is there any signs of the diff being re-shimmed for proper running clearances or did the whole thing just feel sloppy?

Lenny

The bolts were equivalent to grade 5. Im replacing those bolts with bolts that have about a half inch shoulder. Im also going to re-tap the holes for 3/8 size bolts that are 12.9.

[Kinarfi 53]

The bolts were equivalent to grade 5. Im replacing those bolts with bolts that have about a half inch shoulder. Im also going to re-tap the holes for 3/8 size bolts that are 12.9.

12.9s are what Lenny puts in his kits, I found them at McMaster-Carr, but we had to grind the heads down for clearances. http://www.mcmaster.com/#socket-cap-screws/=b3ydaq,

Head Style Standard

Standard Head Style Standard

Material Type Steel

Finish Black

Class Class 12.9

Drive Style Hex Socket

System of Measurement Metric

Thread Direction Right Handed

Tip Type Plain

Self-Locking Method None

Screw Quantity Individual Screw

Specifications Met Deutsche Industrie Normen (DIN) and International Organization for Standardization (ISO)

DIN Specification DIN 912

ISO Specification ISO 4762

[Jarrad 1]

The bolts were equivalent to grade 5. Im replacing those bolts with bolts that have about a half inch shoulder. Im also going to re-tap the holes for 3/8 size bolts that are 12.9.

Took you long enough to show up

[CrawlnT2 1]

Ha ha. Yea it did. Has anyone had problems with their front diffs? Thinking about taking it out and upgrading it to!

[Lenny 21]

Ha ha. Yea it did. Has anyone had problems with their front diffs? Thinking about taking it out and upgrading it to!

You needs to upgrade them both including shimming them correctly. I have an upgrade kit available on Ebay if you want to go that way. You will not be able to drill and retap the holes, material is way too hard.

Lenny

[Quig 1]

My front diff. was the one that fell apart. have had Lenny"s fix put in both since, no probs now,,, thanks Lenny

[wringo 0]

Jarrad, I'm a newbee and just bought a Commando diff from you and I haven't installed it yet, should I check it before I install it and if so what do I need to look for?

[Jarrad 1]

Jarrad, I'm a newbee and just bought a Commando diff from you and I haven't installed it yet, should I check it before I install it and if so what do I need to look for?

It never hurts to check and double check. you could take it apart and check all the bolts for tightness and proper grade, also that it is shimmed correctly. Or stick it in and run the piss out of it.. you got a 30 day warranty better use it while you can

[Jarrad 1]

On a side note, a customer called me has a renegade, broke his rear diff, he bought this renegade brand new. He took it apart had Trooper rear gears in it, 15/32 tooth I told him to go ahead and pull down the front to see whats in it and he had the 14/32 in front, so he has been working against himself while in 4X4 since he first bought it.

[CrawlnT2 1]

^^ That's messed up! Lenny I'm going to buy that Diff fix just curious if you have a front kit?

[Jarrad 1]

Also note he bought this unit from a dealer in Alabama

[Lenny 21]

^^ That's messed up! Lenny I'm going to buy that Diff fix just curious if you have a front kit?

The same kit will work for both the front and the rear. There is a differance but the kits cover that. You would need two kits.

Lenny

[CrawlnT2 1]

The same kit will work for both the front and the rear. There is a differance but the kits cover that. You would need two kits.

Lenny

Thanks lenny. Jarred do you know the dealer that sold the unit? I dont see that being a dealers fault.

[Jarrad 1]

I don't remember the dealer but it is not the dealers fault for a fact

[wringo 0]

Jarrad, I'm a newbee and just bought a Commando diff from you and I haven't installed it yet, should I check it before I install it and if so what do I need to look for?

Just checked the "New Upgraded Diff", bolts are 8.8, shim seems ok but I am going to check that also when I have more time.

[Banjo Minnow 0]

I was changing my diff oil toady and noticed a set screw looking piece stuck to the magnet. It didn't look broken off of anything. It was small with a flat head slot on the top then threaded then came to a point on the bottom. Anyone have any idea what this is and why it came out?