Quantcast
Jump to content


Recommended Posts

Posted

I would go on the lose side myself, as things wear in they will get tighter on the clearance, therefor if you have a tighter spec to start with as valves wear and such it will get even tighter and throw you out of spec. In a perfect world the valves, seats, cam, shims will wear evenly and not cause an issue. But we all know there is no such thing as a perfect world

  • Replies 37
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted

I would go on the lose side myself, as things wear in they will get tighter on the clearance, therefor if you have a tighter spec to start with as valves wear and such it will get even tighter and throw you out of spec. In a perfect world the valves, seats, cam, shims will wear evenly and not cause an issue. But we all know there is no such thing as a perfect world

When I put it back together, everything was tight, so I think I will go with loose.

"But we all know there is no such thing as a perfect world", you got that right, for sure!!!!

Know of any dealers or any one else that has shims? Found this so far, http://stores.ebay.com/HIT-THE-GAS/_i.html?_nkw=shim&submit=Search&LH_TitleDesc=1&_sid=120606839

Still looking.

Thanks,

Jeff

Posted

just reread my posts, while the exhaust was leaking air when I blew compressed air in, it was due to carbon build up on the valve stem, probably due to burning oil from loose rings and low compression, all the intake valve were leaking and had to be replaced.

Posted

I would go on the lose side myself, as things wear in they will get tighter on the clearance, therefor if you have a tighter spec to start with as valves wear and such it will get even tighter and throw you out of spec. In a perfect world the valves, seats, cam, shims will wear evenly and not cause an issue. But we all know there is no such thing as a perfect world

Jarrad would know better than me. Jarrad you are assuming Kinarfi is going to get some miles out of the engine before he needs another rebuild, LOL!

Guest Lenny
Posted

I fully agree with Jarrad. Stay to the loose side. The most wear will more then likely be the valve seat slowly over time seating farther into the head to close up clearance.

Lenny

Posted

Jeff are you done.If you need help call me.

Silverbullet

Ric 928 344 2117

Just about, after I got the head revalved, intake only, they couldn't adjust the valves because the couldn't get the shims or grind enough off the valve stems to get the clearances I need, so I took the head and measured gap using a 2.30mm shim and then calculated what size shims I needed and sent the shims and the specs to Lenny and he ground the shims and has put them in the mail to me. Plan to post a bunch of photos of the changes I have made while doing this. Moved wires, rewired and redid some of the hoses, had already changed the fenders and put a wall between the wheels and motor to keep thing a little cleaner, added a heat shield to the header to protect the shocks and the limit strap from the heat, moved the oil pressures sender via hose to the other side of the engine, put a more secure mount for the interposing relay for the starter and used a FET instead of mechanical relay, turned the radiator fan upside down to get the connector up out of the dirt, rewired the tail lights, redid my steering circuitry and strain gauge sand other stuff I can't remember at this moment.

Things are going well, hoping for good weather around Hanksville so Lenny and I can get it checked out. Googling it has it looking like some good area, on both sides of the road.

Jeff

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Finally got all the valve shims in, had to grind 2 of them on my neighbor's stationary belt sander, hope it's close enough to work good. One of the things I did was before I put the timing belt on, I ran the starter until the oil pressure came up, the I put the belt on and got it all buttoned up, minus radiator and hit the key and instant start. WOOOOO whoo!!!! No Smoke, just smooth running, and I hadn't even hooked up the throttle cable. Shut it down and finished put every thing back on and it started first hit every time. Photo shoot tomorrow of how I wired it and how fixed the swing arm.

Now to load it on the trailer and go find Lenny south of Hanksville.

Jeff

PS. I plan to open the top up and retorque the head bolts and see if my valve clearances changed after I get back, and to have my feet operated on too.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Tim n Deb
      Riding out today it acted like it ran out of gas,  stalled and died and would not start.   Towed back to house,  New  plug added this past month,  plenty of oil, getting plenty of gas, battery cranks good.   Trys to kick in and starts but doesnt.   Two days prior while sitting at a idle it died.  Added gas and it started did my ranch chores with it.  But just now it stalled out cranks but will not start.   Tried to find if fault codes came up on the clock like manual says but not sure I am doing that right.  Any and all help apprecated.  Thank you
    • By Chile
      2018 Massimo 700 MSU. The machine started burning oil all of a sudden. One day fine-- next morning burning oil. Looking for advice. Do I pull the engine to inspect the top end or can it be done with the engine in place? Pro? Cons?
      Any and all assistance is greatly appreciated in advance.
      Chile
       
    • By Prepper
      I have been doing a little research on which engine oil is best for UTV engines.  There seems to be some disagreement over using a good quality regular engine oil, and the necessity of using "M2" (or wet clutch suitable) oil.  My understanding is the "wet clutch" suitable oil has less friction reduction properties (hence a more responsive clutch with less slippage).  While less friction reduction properties would seem to be better for the wet clutch... it would not be best for the internal engine parts like camshaft bearings and other moving parts where friction is detrimental and would lead to premature failure.  Some folks swear you need M2 oil, while others say they have been using regular motor oil for years and their clutch is just fine.  Could they both be right ???
      Any thoughts ?
       
    • By Joe Breaux
      Decided to do an oil change on the Massimo ...drained oil, screen was very clean even tho oil wasn't.  Then went to remove old filter.. holy crap ..I tried every tool I have, could not budge it..Went to store and got one of the end cap type..fit nice and tight, put a 1/2 in drive ratchet on it..nope..not moving.  Put a 18 on breaker bar o. It. The inside of the removal tool broke off!!  Had to weld it back together. Put a pipe on the bar for more leverage.  Finally broke it loose..
      I have never seen a filter in my 55 yrs of working on engines so tight..And i was the one who put it on 2 yrs ago.  JUST HAND TIGHT!
       
    • By Aaron Colona
      Just bought a brand new 760 about a month ago. I'm at 20 hours which the book says is when you need to change the break in oil. 
       
      I must be crazy, but I can't find the oil filter. I've googled a million videos...everything seems to be 2019 or lower...and/or a 550.  They all show the filter easily seen by looking in past the rear passenger tire on the engine. There is absolutely nothing there on mine. 
       
      1.there seems to be very little info if you Google a 760, or anything Massimo newer than like 2019. 
       
      2. Does anyone have a current model year 760 that can answer my riddle for me? 



×
×
  • Create New...