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Drgnrdr

Oil Pressure

24 posts in this topic

my 09 Trooper oil pressure drops to around 28psi at idle when its hot. I changed to a 40 weight oil which seemed to help a little. Is this normal, or should I be worried about my pump, etc. The engine has 41 miles on it.

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my 09 Trooper oil pressure drops to around 28psi at idle when its hot. I changed to a 40 weight oil which seemed to help a little. Is this normal, or should I be worried about my pump, etc. The engine has 41 miles on it.

Go to 15w-50 Mobile 1 synthetic. Also add an oil cooler and keep an eye on the engine temp. Most all have low hot oil pressure and many tend to run hot. Read through the past post for other issues you will want to address. The Trooper is very capible but does have some areas that need attention, some of them safty issues.

Lenny

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Go to 15w-50 Mobile 1 synthetic. Also add an oil cooler and keep an eye on the engine temp. Most all have low hot oil pressure and many tend to run hot. Read through the past post for other issues you will want to address. The Trooper is very capible but does have some areas that need attention, some of them safty issues.

Lenny

Also check your idle RPM.When I got mine after it warmed up it went down to about 750,should be according to manual 950.

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Go to 15w-50 Mobile 1 synthetic. Also add an oil cooler and keep an eye on the engine temp. Most all have low hot oil pressure and many tend to run hot. Read through the past post for other issues you will want to address. The Trooper is very capible but does have some areas that need attention, some of them safty issues.

Lenny

Thanks Lenny, I'll get the oil changed out today and get a cooler ordered.

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According to chery the engine is designed to have low oil pressure at idle. Around 10-15 psi, to keep too much oil accumulating in the head, emissions reasons. 28 does not seem too low, my suburban idles at 8 psi with 25 on the high end hot. I don't see a problem.

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Where are you ordering the cooler from?

I haven't decided yet, I saw that Silverbullet had one

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I run the desert all the time and have never had a reason to add an oil cooler. Yes my pressure is as described but as Jarrad says no problem. I don't have a cooling problem since I made some plastic body changes to allow more airflow.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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I run the desert all the time and have never had a reason to add an oil cooler. Yes my pressure is as described but as Jarrad says no problem. I don't have a cooling problem since I made some plastic body changes to allow more airflow.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Hi Rocmoc, What changes did you do for cooling? do you have photos? I would love to see them. Thanks for your time.

Stevozz

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Hi Rocmoc, What changes did you do for cooling? do you have photos? I would love to see them. Thanks for your time.

Stevozz

My Trooper is the same year as Rocmocs but was built a bit later thus a few changes by the factory like larger brake disc. Anyway, I had lots of cooling problems with mine. It would overheat real easy so that I had to keep close track of it. I'm thinking I made the same body changes that Rocmoc did (cut out the front of the side scoops ) but it didn't work for me. Mine would still overheat to the point of steaming out the radiator cap. Maybe some stay cooler better then others. Could be as simple as Rocmoc having a cleaner block casting so internal coolant flow is better. I went to a somewhat larger radiator and higher CFM fan to solve the cooling problem which now gets up to about 190 degrees and stays there no matter how hard I work it and I have somewhat more power then stock but it still stays cool. For the oil pressure, I made a 9 quart aluminum oil pan. More oil and aluminum pan means cooler oil. This also worked, pressure stays much better now. I'm not a big fan of low oil pressure. Ok if your idling but if your at low rpms and working it, it's not the best. The stock Trooper doesn't do well at low rpms so normally they are kept at enough rpms to bring up the oil pressure so generally no problem. In my case with the supercharger, I'm generally running more in the lower rpm areas. I also run synthetic which gives better bearing support at low oil pressures and at high pressure points when it's hot. I also run 15w50 oil (Mobile 1) so it's a bit thicker then the 10w40 oils. This helps oil pressure some too. Then again, I put so much money into mine that I stay extra conservative about these things for fear of now blowing it to smitherines. So far so good, knock on wood.

Actually feel ok about mods.

Lenny

PS, We should get points for how many words we post or is it the other way around. Maybe demerrits because, due to a lack of proper use of the english language, it takes me more words then others use to say the same thing.

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As Lenny said, I took the plastic access panels to the upper mount on the rear shocks and turned them into EARS. Cut a opening in the front and shimmed the front out to act as air scoops. I also cut the rear of the center console to allow better air flow thu the front. I have since the last summer adventure did away with the closed top cover over the engine with expanded metal. Works on my Trooper. I also think the 31" tires lets me manage the RPM's better resulting in better temp control. Hope some of this helps & good luck.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

ps. I will say when I pulled the rad, I did not like the construction. Very heavy & fins are too close for good cooling. Lots of room for a better designed rad.

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My Trooper is the same year as Rocmocs but was built a bit later thus a few changes by the factory like larger brake disc. Anyway, I had lots of cooling problems with mine. It would overheat real easy so that I had to keep close track of it. I'm thinking I made the same body changes that Rocmoc did (cut out the front of the side scoops ) but it didn't work for me. Mine would still overheat to the point of steaming out the radiator cap. Maybe some stay cooler better then others. Could be as simple as Rocmoc having a cleaner block casting so internal coolant flow is better. I went to a somewhat larger radiator and higher CFM fan to solve the cooling problem which now gets up to about 190 degrees and stays there no matter how hard I work it and I have somewhat more power then stock but it still stays cool. For the oil pressure, I made a 9 quart aluminum oil pan. More oil and aluminum pan means cooler oil. This also worked, pressure stays much better now. I'm not a big fan of low oil pressure. Ok if your idling but if your at low rpms and working it, it's not the best. The stock Trooper doesn't do well at low rpms so normally they are kept at enough rpms to bring up the oil pressure so generally no problem. In my case with the supercharger, I'm generally running more in the lower rpm areas. I also run synthetic which gives better bearing support at low oil pressures and at high pressure points when it's hot. I also run 15w50 oil (Mobile 1) so it's a bit thicker then the 10w40 oils. This helps oil pressure some too. Then again, I put so much money into mine that I stay extra conservative about these things for fear of now blowing it to smitherines. So far so good, knock on wood.

Actually feel ok about mods.

Lenny

PS, We should get points for how many words we post or is it the other way around. Maybe demerrits because, due to a lack of proper use of the english language, it takes me more words then others use to say the same thing.

Thanks Lenny for the input. Mine never ran hot yet, Just looking for some ways to keep it cooler. I am not a big fan with these joyner gauges, just do not trust them. I do have to start using thicker motor oil though, when mine is at operating temp my oil light does come on when at idle and it does read real low, but my engine doesnt miss a beat, idles real smooth and absolutely no noise of any kind from it when oil light comes on. So I do not know if my gauge is off ect. If an engine has real low oil pressure shouldnt it sound different like alittle noisy and will idle rough? or am I think wrong here. Thanks for your input Stevozz

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As Lenny said, I took the plastic access panels to the upper mount on the rear shocks and turned them into EARS. Cut a opening in the front and shimmed the front out to act as air scoops. I also cut the rear of the center console to allow better air flow thu the front. I have since the last summer adventure did away with the closed top cover over the engine with expanded metal. Works on my Trooper. I also think the 31" tires lets me manage the RPM's better resulting in better temp control. Hope some of this helps & good luck.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

ps. I will say when I pulled the rad, I did not like the construction. Very heavy & fins are too close for good cooling. Lots of room for a better designed rad.

Hi Rocmoc, With using that expanded metal on your bed do you also get less dust up front? when I am going straight into the wind I get alot of dust up front its really bad too, I know its part of my wind breaker that I made, but its really bad. Maybe that expanded metal will help there? For extra cooling I was thinking and going to test it soon, now dont laugh, but I had to buy another shop vac and I bought a big one this time, and I noticed that the vacuum atachment is really big, so I am going to buy 4 wide attachments with hoses and mount 2 on top of my roll cage and mount 1 on each side but alittle lower and then run 2 of the wide tubes to the top of the engine, and the ones that are mounted on the sides run them to both sides of the engine block. To me that should work like a ram air system what do you think? Would like to have your guys input. Once I am done with it I will take photos of it, after I test it and will see if it works.

Stevozz

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As Lenny said, I took the plastic access panels to the upper mount on the rear shocks and turned them into EARS. Cut a opening in the front and shimmed the front out to act as air scoops. I also cut the rear of the center console to allow better air flow thu the front. I have since the last summer adventure did away with the closed top cover over the engine with expanded metal. Works on my Trooper. I also think the 31" tires lets me manage the RPM's better resulting in better temp control. Hope some of this helps & good luck.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

ps. I will say when I pulled the rad, I did not like the construction. Very heavy & fins are too close for good cooling. Lots of room for a better designed rad.

Yes I also agree about the rad, about the fins are too close, after every ride I always spray water through the rad fins to keep them open, I cannot believe how clogged up they get.

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Hi Rocmoc, With using that expanded metal on your bed do you also get less dust up front? when I am going straight into the wind I get alot of dust up front its really bad too, I know its part of my wind breaker that I made, but its really bad. Maybe that expanded metal will help there? For extra cooling I was thinking and going to test it soon, now dont laugh, but I had to buy another shop vac and I bought a big one this time, and I noticed that the vacuum atachment is really big, so I am going to buy 4 wide attachments with hoses and mount 2 on top of my roll cage and mount 1 on each side but alittle lower and then run 2 of the wide tubes to the top of the engine, and the ones that are mounted on the sides run them to both sides of the engine block. To me that should work like a ram air system what do you think? Would like to have your guys input. Once I am done with it I will take photos of it, after I test it and will see if it works.

Stevozz

stevozz,

You didnt mention where you were mounting the shop vac??? :D

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stevozz,

You didnt mention where you were mounting the shop vac??? :D

Hi Rick, I think the shop vac will stay in the garage, at least for now.

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You can get used Nascar brake fans on ebay. I have four of them but have not mounted them yet. They attach to dryer vent hose / brake duct hose and can be directed air to where it is needed.

Dust! I have found that you have to have a bit of air coming thu the firewall & under the bottom of the windshield to keep the dust in control. Not too much to make it windy, just enough to break the vacuum. I have tried having the windshield sealed to the top of the dash & limit air thu the firewall and you create a vacuum pulling the dust into the driver's area. I tried a half windshield and too much wind in the face. Found the best for US is about a 3/4 to 4/5 windshield.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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You can get used Nascar brake fans on ebay. I have four of them but have not mounted them yet. They attach to dryer vent hose / brake duct hose and can be directed air to where it is needed.

Dust! I have found that you have to have a bit of air coming thu the firewall & under the bottom of the windshield to keep the dust in control. Not too much to make it windy, just enough to break the vacuum. I have tried having the windshield sealed to the top of the dash & limit air thu the firewall and you create a vacuum pulling the dust into the driver's area. I tried a half windshield and too much wind in the face. Found the best for US is about a 3/4 to 4/5 windshield.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Hi Rocmoc, I heard that some guys blocked off the fire wall completely. But I am alittle worried about the engine heat, I live in arizona and do not want to over heat the engine. The windbreaker that I made is only 8" high and I do not have a windsheild just the breaker. Do you think that the expanded metal over your engine helped or no?

Thanks Stevozz

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Stevozz. Time will tell. I just did the mod this winter so have not had a hot season yet to run it in. BUT I didn't have a problem before. I just wanted to improve & lighten the rig. There is a pic in my gallery that shows what I did plus an old post of around Dec/Jan when I was doing the shock & cage upgrades.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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Stevozz. Time will tell. I just did the mod this winter so have not had a hot season yet to run it in. BUT I didn't have a problem before. I just wanted to improve & lighten the rig. There is a pic in my gallery that shows what I did plus an old post of around Dec/Jan when I was doing the shock & cage upgrades.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

when you do take it out let me know how it works with that expanded metal. I will go back to your photos and look again. Thank you for your time,

Stevozz

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Ok, I'm curious, when these troopers are new,"engine" you should break them in to let rings seat, & change oil & filter alot to get leftovers out of motor,,,,,,,I would guess new trooper is just like when I had my engine overhauled? I sent this message to ""drgnrdr""",, but he hasn't read yet..

""" I just had my engine overhauled, was told not to use synthetic until rings are seated. Synthetic is toooo good to seat rings, machinist told me to use rotella 15-40 for quite awhile,. but also change oil & filter,often, just in case of metal left inside. I would guess your engine is not broke in? Quig """"

Someone let me know if this is right or wrong? I was told by very smart member that it was right for me,,, Dumb,old,,Quig :rolleyes::mellow:B)

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Ok, I'm curious, when these troopers are new,"engine" you should break them in to let rings seat, & change oil & filter alot to get leftovers out of motor,,,,,,,I would guess new trooper is just like when I had my engine overhauled? I sent this message to ""drgnrdr""",, but he hasn't read yet..

""" I just had my engine overhauled, was told not to use synthetic until rings are seated. Synthetic is toooo good to seat rings, machinist told me to use rotella 15-40 for quite awhile,. but also change oil & filter,often, just in case of metal left inside. I would guess your engine is not broke in? Quig """"

Someone let me know if this is right or wrong? I was told by very smart member that it was right for me,,, Dumb,old,,Quig :rolleyes::mellow:B)

Hi Quig, What I did my whole life with a new vehicle I drove it for 1000 miles not keeping it at a steady speed always up and down and not pushing it to hard or over reving, and yes change oil and filter often. As I would get over 500 miles I would push it alittle harder but not to over do it. Once I would hit 1000 miles I would switch to mobil 1 fully syn. To me 1000 miles was broken in, and I never had a problem with my new cars or motorcycles. I had little 4 cylinder cars that reached 250,000 miles and didnt do nothing to them, so the way I broke new engines in worked for me. With my trooper I went to 500 miles why because them miles were on trails rocks ect, meaning to me 500 miles on trails and rock ect were like 1000 miles on the street, but thats when I put in mobil 1 fully syn. So far so good. Everybody has their own way for breaking in a new engine, but the way I broke all of mine in worked for me. I hope that this helps you.

Stevozz

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Thanks Steve, That was kind of my thinking also. Just wanted to hear from some others. I have never used synthetic oil, but I'm going to put it in trooper. I have about 25 hrs on engine since overhaul, going to wait for awhile, make sure rings get seated.. Thanks again,,,Quig

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Thanks Steve, That was kind of my thinking also. Just wanted to hear from some others. I have never used synthetic oil, but I'm going to put it in trooper. I have about 25 hrs on engine since overhaul, going to wait for awhile, make sure rings get seated.. Thanks again,,,Quig

everytime you change your oil keep an eye on your drain plug, to see how many shavings you get, should be less and less each time you change it, make sure you wipe off the shavings on the drain plug eachtime ok. the drain plug has a strong magnet in it.

Stevozz

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