Hayg Fuel Pump

[showa]

Anyone familiar with these ??? Looking at replacement for my T2...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hayg-OEM-Inline-Fuel-Pump-0-580-254-910-0580254910-New-/230568738342#vi-content

[Guest Lenny]

Anyone familiar with these ??? Looking at replacement for my T2...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Hayg-OEM-Inline-Fuel-Pump-0-580-254-910-0580254910-New-/230568738342#vi-content

Not familiar with that brand but it looks like it would be fine based on looks. Thats easy to say because they all look like the Bosch. Hardto tell what is a knock off and what is not. The price is good enough you could buy 2 and have a backup.

Lenny

[ricksrb]

Not familiar with that brand but it looks like it would be fine based on looks. Thats easy to say because they all look like the Bosch. Hardto tell what is a knock off and what is not. The price is good enough you could buy 2 and have a backup.

Lenny

what is the PSI rating on it?

[Guest Lenny]

Ricksrb is correct in checking the pressure of the pump. There are two different types of pumps that are common. One is high pressure for port injection and the other is a low pressure for throttle body injection. The low pressure won't work, it's only aboutr 15psi. The low pressure ones are cheaper.

Lenny

[showa]

OK... Per customer service:

73psi

38/gph

Didn't have inlet/outlet sizes available to him.... Go figure...

But it looks like I'll be ordering one soon....

[showa]

OK... Per customer service:

73psi

38/gph

Didn't have inlet/outlet sizes available to him.... Go figure...

But it looks like I'll be ordering one soon....

Looks same as stock except has threaded outlet instead of barbed end. A 17mm socket took care of the outlet end swap and I'll be damned if it didn't start better than before.

Looks like Kinarfi will have to add this to the parts list.

[Kinarfi]

Looks same as stock except has threaded outlet instead of barbed end. A 17mm socket took care of the outlet end swap and I'll be damned if it didn't start better than before.

Looks like Kinarfi will have to add this to the parts list.

Done,

Kinarfi

[showa]

Went to start the buggy other day and no fuel again. Fuel pump was bad. Emailed vendor and sent a new replacement with no hassle and no charge. I would have to rate him as excellent to deal with and am still happy with the Hayg pump.

[Detbohica]

This thread came a little late for me had already bought the Bosch. Oh well

[showa]

Ok.... Here's one for you guys.....

Put in the second Hayg fuel pump, starts right up, runs fine... Buggy is on trailer this whole time mind you...

Week later the pump is dead just like first one did....

I turn off main elec switch when I shut down buggy each time....

Any thoughts what might be killing my pumps ???

Kurt

[rocmoc]

Hello Kurt,

Even tho you have the main elec switch off, still check to see if there is any current still going to the pump. Maybe there is a smash, burnt or crossed wired still sending current to the pump. It could also be a very small current just enough to be there but not enough to turn the blades. Kinarfi, think that could do it?

Check and make sure your ground straps on the trans & engine are clean & tight.

rocmoc n AZ/MX

[Kinarfi]

Ok.... Here's one for you guys.....

Put in the second Hayg fuel pump, starts right up, runs fine... Buggy is on trailer this whole time mind you...

Week later the pump is dead just like first one did....

I turn off main elec switch when I shut down buggy each time....

Any thoughts what might be killing my pumps ???

Kurt

When you say "starts right up, runs fine" that's when you turn the key on, not just hook it up and it does shut down with the key, right? I'm wondering, just how good is a Hayg pump. Is there a possibility that you have water in the gas? Send me you bad one so I can test it, if you want, I won't damage it with out getting back to you for permission and I'll send it back if you want. Do you have the equipment to test for resistance, volts, amps, etc.

The way these pumps work is they move the gas past the armature, the bearings and the brushes, I suggest mounting it vertically so if you DO have water in your fuel, it can drain back out if it's in the pump when you shut down and if there is a strong possibility that you have debris in the tank, maybe a filter ahead of the pump, I prefer and have my filter after the pump in case the pump adds debris to the fuel. As for Rocmoc's suggestions, do check for voltage when off and that the ground wire has a good connection to ground, I doubt that a low voltage would be there via damaged wire, the pump needs too much power for leakage current to damage it.

I lean toward contaminated fuel or jump pumps, but just sitting for a week shouldn't kill even a poorly built pump, and these don't look like junk. How much alcohol is in your fuel? What do the sales people say?

Kinarfi

[lowgear]

I bought one of these pumps in june last year. Mine is still working good but now I think I'll buy another type pump for a spare and keep it with me just in case.

[showa]

So far the sales people are baffled and I'm waiting to hear back again. They claim to not had 2 in a row bad before.

After th first Hayg died, I put a new filter inline before the pump. Even when I go 12v direct from battery (which is charged and good) the pump does nothing.....

[showa]

Question: I have been using the barbed output end from the original fuel pump. Yesterday I was looking at it and noticed that it had a check ball with spring type system built into the barb. Closer inspection it looked like it was jammed somewhat and possibly blocking a lot of the flow.

Is this possibly the culprit that creates too much back pressure and smokes the pump?

Is there any consequences if I remove the check ball from the barb end?

Am I totally off base here?

Kurt

[showa]

I got looking more after lowgear said he been running one for awhile....

[ERV JR]

the check ball is there to maintain line pressure /fuel in the fuel rail. Without it you may have to cycle the key a few times to build fuel pressure and have longer cranking times

[lowgear]

Oh Boy!!! I never should have said anything about not having any problem with my fuel pump, it quit on me yesterday while out in the middle of nowhere. Lucky for me I had a spare one with me. I'am going back to the Bosch pumps no more trying to save a couple of bucks. Personally I will not recommend these pumps, spent the money and get a good one.

[showa]

Damn, sorry about the jinx....

Kinarfi, you may want to add a caveat to the Hayg listing in parts thread... "Buy at own risk"

With that said, anyone have a Walbro part number that would work?

Their GSL394 is listed as "high pressure" and 190LPH.....

Just trying to see what else is out there besides Bosch.....

[showa]

Or the slightly cheaper, GSL392 that has a 255lph rating and is high pressure. Does the higher LPH rating make a difference? Will the excess be fed back by the return line from the regulator to gas tank?

[rocmoc]

I don't worry or think pressure in the fuel rail is really an issue. I always wait until I hear the pump stop before I try to start the engine. I do this on all my stuff that has a electric pump. I think you have the easiest fix tho, buy Bosch. Great product, I even purchase their windshield wipers.

rocmoc n AZ/MX

[dirtydog]

Here's a link for the Bosch pumps for $59. Hope this helps. Bosch is high quality.

[bruhaw]

Problem is those I don't beleive those are real Bosch pumps. Most parts stores will sell at about $140 or more. Part number is 69609. The $59 is for a Chinese imitation. Silver Bullet sells both and the Chinese is $89 and the real Bosch is $180 or so. I did some checking today and that is what i discovered. No link attached that I can see Dirty Dog.

[dirtydog]

Oops I forgot the link. Bruhaw you could be right. Not listed as "Bosch" genuine. Here's the link anyway. Thanks for the info.

http://www.naautoparts.com/m8/0%20580%20254%20910%20%28A%29--fuel-pump-for-mercedes-benz-71-86.html

[bruhaw]

Well it looks like the replacement Bosch but for that price it isn't. But hey you could almost buy 3 of them for the cost of 1 real Bosch.

[lowgear]

I found these AMERICAN MADE pumps at Summit Auto. MSD 2225 43gph, 70psi,$105.95 Trick Flow TPS 25004P 43gph, 85psi ,$84.95 Airtex 110-E8248 70gph, 120psi $123.95. I think I'am going with the Airtex more than enough for any application and with a return in the system no worries with to much fuel. It also is a vain style pump a much more efficent pump.

[ERV JR]

I found these AMERICAN MADE pumps at Summit Auto. MSD 2225 43gph, 70psi,$105.95 Trick Flow TPS 25004P 43gph, 85psi ,$84.95 Airtex 110-E8248 70gph, 120psi $123.95. I think I'am going with the Airtex more than enough for any application and with a return in the system no worries with to much fuel. It also is a vain style pump a much more efficent pump.

I found an airtex e2000, autozone has them for 89.99, and carter also has a cross over part number for that.

[lowgear]

Thanks ERV JR for the referience. I checked on the specks on that pump and by what I found the are not as good as the stock pump. Free flow 30gph, 70psi thru the regulator. I want to increase both because I'am having some problems with the engine not getting enough fuel and if I want to modify my engine later it needs to be enough to cover the mods.

[Detbohica]

I might be in the same boat, I finally got almost everything done, and ready for the race, pulled the buggy off the ramp fired it up, got really excited, dropped it in second and punched it, reacted well then died. Restarts, same thing, went and checked the fuel pressure it bounces like crazy between 20-60 i think. I also bought a new pump recently losted below. It will go back to the mechanic, and maybe I'm need to buy another pump.

0580254910 Electric Fuel Pump Mercedes W123 W126 SL AUDI 80 100

[Guest Lenny]

To guarantee a steady fuel supply to my engine, I set up my fuel pump system different. First I run a low pressure pump to pump the fuel into an aluminum canister which is aprox. 3" in diameter by about 15" long mounted vertically. This low pressure pump pumps into the top of this canister where the inlet fitting is T'ed. Pump goes to one side of the 'T' and the other side drains back to the tank. The side that drains back to the tank has the 'T' port it's connected to soldered shut. I then drilled a small hole thru the solder to let some fuel get back to the tank. I kept increasing this hole size until the Canister would hold about 5 psi which I read on its own gauge. With the canister pressurized, I am guaranteed fuel to the high pressure main pump. I use a MSD main pump, bought used on Ebay for this. The canister allows any air that may get into the fuel line from the slushing around of fuel in the tank to stay near and rise to the top and keeps it out of the main line. Fom the bottom of the canister I run a line to the main pump. The outlet of the main pump goes to three things. First to my second fuel pressure gauge which is in between the seats so I can monitor it while I drive. Second, it goes to the bottom of a second smaller canister which is about 1-3/4" in diameter by about 8" long mounted also vertically. The bottom port is the only port on this smaller canister. As pressure builds in the fuel line going to the fuel rail, the third destination for the fuel, the air in this canister compresses as the canister partially fills with fuel. This pressure builds until the air is at the same pressure as the fuel and thus the reading on the gauge. This canister or accumulator as we are using it smoothes out any variances in fuel pressure. My fuel guage stays rock solid at one point with no variations what so ever.

Lenny