Quantcast
Jump to content


My T-4 Status


Detbohica

Recommended Posts

Well my motor cranks, and sounds good no motor changes. Had to replace the radiator went with a 22x19 made some slight mods to make it fit upgraded fan tom1750 cfms. Went with the upgrade fuel pumps also. Yesterday I order the Vision rims 15x8 and some BF Goodrich 30 x 9.5 x 15. I'm also talking with King about the possibility of swap out the shocks.

At this moment the trooper is at the mechanic he is doing a complete review, I mentioned the differential issues people have had. He has mentioned already to do some reinforcement welding, if I remember correctly someone mentioned to unplug the computer prior to welding correct?

When he is done I will update with pics of the radiator.

I plan to be ready for the Jamboree. I will definitely bring a camera and take notes.

Casey

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Back to 4x4 problems, replaced switches with toogles but electric motor is shot new one on the way, also need to replace the winch read almost every post related to winches yesterday. I always carry a tow strap, so I will look for something else. I like the idea of a rope style but would like 100 ft or so.

Hopefully next week late or the following week. Will be ready for the Baja 250 though for sure.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the tubing is .090 wall erw, its no problem to weld , I have tig and mig welded it .

The problem is there are thin spots. The thickness is not uniform. I weld it also but would hit a thin location and blow thu and then have to fill. You can see it if you cut the tubing and look in the open hole. AND this may have been something found in the first Troopers and corrected later.

rocmoc n AZ/MX

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is not DOM (drawn over mandrel) tubing. If it was, it wouldn't have the weld seam sticking out on the inside. DOM tubing it much stronger then ERW (electric resistance welded) tubing. DOM, alloy 1020, has a tensil strength of aprox. 80,000lbs/square inch and a yeild strength of aprox. 70,000lbs where as ERW is 45,000 and 32,000 respectively. Also DOM is going to have a wall thickness that is consistant within a couple of thousands of an inch. DOM is commonly used for building vehicle frames and rollbars. Alloy 1020 is easier to find then 1026 but 1026 is about 10,000lbs stronger. Both DOM and ERW weld fine. I used DOM 1020 to redo my roll cage and doors recently as I was unable to find the 1026 in the size and wall thicknesses I needed. The other option for frames would be 4130 Chromoly tubing which is what higher tech race vehicles are made with. It has strengths of aprox 110,000 and 90,000 respectively. It also welds fineand is the most expensive but usually requires heat treating after welding to eliminate brittle weld spots. Joyner used the cheaper stuff. I'll be posting my roll cage project shortly.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The saga continues. Tomorrow hopefully it will be home to take to the race on Saturday as a chase vehicle.

Basically a handful of electrical problems, it is a temp fix to use for the weekend then back to the shop Monday and let the electrician loose to fix it correctly. I have found many of the threads around electric issues, will need to translate them for him if he wants them, but I doubt it. He has put enough race vehicles together from scratch.

I hope to get pictures with the new tires and radiator set-up this weekend to post, and I will be interested in how the change of the fuel pump to the higher pressure affects if at all.

Lastly I just need to do it and buy the King Shocks and be done with it. Maybe I'll wait to see the extent of the electrical stuff first. M

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The problem is there are thin spots. The thickness is not uniform. I weld it also but would hit a thin location and blow thu and then have to fill. You can see it if you cut the tubing and look in the open hole. AND this may have been something found in the first Troopers and corrected later.

rocmoc n AZ/MX

I have cut it open,I have welded my tubing to it also. Erw tubing does not have uniform thickness, this is why SFI/Nhra cert cages built from ERW are built using .134 wall while spec for M/S is .118 wall. If using .120 wall it will be too thin if sonic tested

Link to comment
Share on other sites

It is not DOM (drawn over mandrel) tubing. If it was, it wouldn't have the weld seam sticking out on the inside. DOM tubing it much stronger then ERW (electric resistance welded) tubing. DOM, alloy 1020, has a tensil strength of aprox. 80,000lbs/square inch and a yeild strength of aprox. 70,000lbs where as ERW is 45,000 and 32,000 respectively. Also DOM is going to have a wall thickness that is consistant within a couple of thousands of an inch. DOM is commonly used for building vehicle frames and rollbars. Alloy 1020 is easier to find then 1026 but 1026 is about 10,000lbs stronger. Both DOM and ERW weld fine. I used DOM 1020 to redo my roll cage and doors recently as I was unable to find the 1026 in the size and wall thicknesses I needed. The other option for frames would be 4130 Chromoly tubing which is what higher tech race vehicles are made with. It has strengths of aprox 110,000 and 90,000 respectively. It also welds fineand is the most expensive but usually requires heat treating after welding to eliminate brittle weld spots. Joyner used the cheaper stuff. I'll be posting my roll cage project shortly.

Lenny

Actually DOM is about the same price as molly,atleast in 1 5/8 dia, also chassis shops are not heat treating molly after welding, for the cage to cert for Nhra the cage needs to be tig welded. You will find most people using ER70S-2 which has a tensile streangth of 70,000. some guys use er80 others will use stainless. Consider that the streangth is less than that of the base metal but you are also making a filliet weld . None the less look at aircraft they are migwelding molly, dessert cars are often molly but migwelded due to the time involved .

But Tig welding allows better heat control and if done correctly reduces the HAZ (heat affected zone) or the base metal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I knew that molly could be mig welded and actually it is not any harder then welding the others. Also if mig welded correctly, less heat is added because of the speed of laydown travel. I am under the understanding that heat treating is only needed on the thicker wall stuff as it can chill a weld area quicker. The thinner wall stuff doesn't need it if welded correctly. I tiged my DOM cage. Now if I could just be younger so I could see it better and not shake, I wouldn't have to keep re-pointing the tungston. Gosh i went through four 6" tungstons In the process. Should have been less then one.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I knew that molly could be mig welded and actually it is not any harder then welding the others. Also if mig welded correctly, less heat is added because of the speed of laydown travel. I am under the understanding that heat treating is only needed on the thicker wall stuff as it can chill a weld area quicker. The thinner wall stuff doesn't need it if welded correctly. I tiged my DOM cage. Now if I could just be younger so I could see it better and not shake, I wouldn't have to keep re-pointing the tungston. Gosh i went through four 6" tungstons In the process. Should have been less then one.

Lenny

It seems that im the youngest in the bunch of trooper owners ,lol @ 29 . I actually mig welded my rear cage, did a bit of tig on it but decided time was better spent bending tubing than welding one joint

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Great! Looking forward to pics.

What tires did you select?

I'm interested to see what you did for T-bar. I've been thinking mine needs that too.

Regarding your shocks, have you had the nitrogen charge checked/filled? I took mine to local off road shop and they were at about 80-90 psi. He filled them to 150 psi and I am very happy with ride. The "Boss" even comments on how good it rides! You might try that first if you haven't already.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By LongSun
      I can not find it on the board, so I'm afraid I'm the only cheapo on the forum.
      What is the fuel economy of the Hisun HS590? (I guess it is the same as the HS550)
      I count in liter per 100 km, but if you use MPG it's okay with me, but please tell if you use the US or UK MPG!
    • By NDV45
      I have  2008 Cub Cadet Volunteer Tracker.  Was running fine, parked and next morning electric fuel pump inop.  Checked voltage had 4.2 volts.  Swapped relays in fuse box, checked all fuses (good) and still low voltage.   Does the ECU control the voltage to the fuel pump or which relay controls the voltage to the pump?
      Have checked all wiring and not found any place it could be shorted (not saying I may have missed something). I am at a loss.  Need Help Please.
    • By BOYD
      I have a 2004 KUBOTA RTV 900 DIESEL and I need to replace both front cv axels.I have been online looking at them and there seems to be a lot of different manufactures to choose from. My question is who makes a good aftermarket set of cv axels for this KUBOTA. I have read horror stories of people buying the  cheap Chinese brand only to find out they don't fit or they don't last very long and fail again. I hate to have to spend over $200 a shaft to get OEM from KUBOTA when I'm sure there is a company out there who probably makes it for them or makes comparable to OEM. Thanks for your help.
    • By Nathon S.
      I have a Bennche 700 EFI Bighorn. I’ve recently been unable to get it to start. After a little troubleshooting I realized my fuel pump was not pumping fuel. This weekend I emptied the gas and replaced it with new. I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel injector. I also replaced the battery, spark plug and made sure all my fuses and relays were good. I have confirmed that the float on the fuel pump is not obstructed. The UTV is about 12 years old and has less than 100 hours on it. It has not run in over a year.  Not sure whats going on?!? After doing a little reading I'm leaning towards it being an issue with the ECU or perhaps a faulty wire in the wiring harness. Anyone have any ideas on where to start looking or what I could be dealing with? Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance!
    • By moonrover
      Mine is overheated/burned/melt at connection with its wire connector, parts are ordered to replace both them.  This seems to be a common issue, and some of you already replaced it. I right now just connect the wires, so the fan runs  all the time whenever the initiation is on, but it's better let fan runs as needed with a working temperature sensor/switch. 
      Question: Does some coolant come out by removing the switch/sensor from radiator?  Or, is the threaded hole all the way inside radiator?   If the answer is yes,  I want to drain or extract  some coolant to make its level below the sensor before replacing it, so I don't make a mess with coolant spilled out 
      Thank you.  
×
×
  • Create New...