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My T-4 Status


Detbohica

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Well my motor cranks, and sounds good no motor changes. Had to replace the radiator went with a 22x19 made some slight mods to make it fit upgraded fan tom1750 cfms. Went with the upgrade fuel pumps also. Yesterday I order the Vision rims 15x8 and some BF Goodrich 30 x 9.5 x 15. I'm also talking with King about the possibility of swap out the shocks.

At this moment the trooper is at the mechanic he is doing a complete review, I mentioned the differential issues people have had. He has mentioned already to do some reinforcement welding, if I remember correctly someone mentioned to unplug the computer prior to welding correct?

When he is done I will update with pics of the radiator.

I plan to be ready for the Jamboree. I will definitely bring a camera and take notes.

Casey

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Back to 4x4 problems, replaced switches with toogles but electric motor is shot new one on the way, also need to replace the winch read almost every post related to winches yesterday. I always carry a tow strap, so I will look for something else. I like the idea of a rope style but would like 100 ft or so.

Hopefully next week late or the following week. Will be ready for the Baja 250 though for sure.

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the tubing is .090 wall erw, its no problem to weld , I have tig and mig welded it .

The problem is there are thin spots. The thickness is not uniform. I weld it also but would hit a thin location and blow thu and then have to fill. You can see it if you cut the tubing and look in the open hole. AND this may have been something found in the first Troopers and corrected later.

rocmoc n AZ/MX

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It is not DOM (drawn over mandrel) tubing. If it was, it wouldn't have the weld seam sticking out on the inside. DOM tubing it much stronger then ERW (electric resistance welded) tubing. DOM, alloy 1020, has a tensil strength of aprox. 80,000lbs/square inch and a yeild strength of aprox. 70,000lbs where as ERW is 45,000 and 32,000 respectively. Also DOM is going to have a wall thickness that is consistant within a couple of thousands of an inch. DOM is commonly used for building vehicle frames and rollbars. Alloy 1020 is easier to find then 1026 but 1026 is about 10,000lbs stronger. Both DOM and ERW weld fine. I used DOM 1020 to redo my roll cage and doors recently as I was unable to find the 1026 in the size and wall thicknesses I needed. The other option for frames would be 4130 Chromoly tubing which is what higher tech race vehicles are made with. It has strengths of aprox 110,000 and 90,000 respectively. It also welds fineand is the most expensive but usually requires heat treating after welding to eliminate brittle weld spots. Joyner used the cheaper stuff. I'll be posting my roll cage project shortly.

Lenny

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The saga continues. Tomorrow hopefully it will be home to take to the race on Saturday as a chase vehicle.

Basically a handful of electrical problems, it is a temp fix to use for the weekend then back to the shop Monday and let the electrician loose to fix it correctly. I have found many of the threads around electric issues, will need to translate them for him if he wants them, but I doubt it. He has put enough race vehicles together from scratch.

I hope to get pictures with the new tires and radiator set-up this weekend to post, and I will be interested in how the change of the fuel pump to the higher pressure affects if at all.

Lastly I just need to do it and buy the King Shocks and be done with it. Maybe I'll wait to see the extent of the electrical stuff first. M

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The problem is there are thin spots. The thickness is not uniform. I weld it also but would hit a thin location and blow thu and then have to fill. You can see it if you cut the tubing and look in the open hole. AND this may have been something found in the first Troopers and corrected later.

rocmoc n AZ/MX

I have cut it open,I have welded my tubing to it also. Erw tubing does not have uniform thickness, this is why SFI/Nhra cert cages built from ERW are built using .134 wall while spec for M/S is .118 wall. If using .120 wall it will be too thin if sonic tested

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It is not DOM (drawn over mandrel) tubing. If it was, it wouldn't have the weld seam sticking out on the inside. DOM tubing it much stronger then ERW (electric resistance welded) tubing. DOM, alloy 1020, has a tensil strength of aprox. 80,000lbs/square inch and a yeild strength of aprox. 70,000lbs where as ERW is 45,000 and 32,000 respectively. Also DOM is going to have a wall thickness that is consistant within a couple of thousands of an inch. DOM is commonly used for building vehicle frames and rollbars. Alloy 1020 is easier to find then 1026 but 1026 is about 10,000lbs stronger. Both DOM and ERW weld fine. I used DOM 1020 to redo my roll cage and doors recently as I was unable to find the 1026 in the size and wall thicknesses I needed. The other option for frames would be 4130 Chromoly tubing which is what higher tech race vehicles are made with. It has strengths of aprox 110,000 and 90,000 respectively. It also welds fineand is the most expensive but usually requires heat treating after welding to eliminate brittle weld spots. Joyner used the cheaper stuff. I'll be posting my roll cage project shortly.

Lenny

Actually DOM is about the same price as molly,atleast in 1 5/8 dia, also chassis shops are not heat treating molly after welding, for the cage to cert for Nhra the cage needs to be tig welded. You will find most people using ER70S-2 which has a tensile streangth of 70,000. some guys use er80 others will use stainless. Consider that the streangth is less than that of the base metal but you are also making a filliet weld . None the less look at aircraft they are migwelding molly, dessert cars are often molly but migwelded due to the time involved .

But Tig welding allows better heat control and if done correctly reduces the HAZ (heat affected zone) or the base metal.

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I knew that molly could be mig welded and actually it is not any harder then welding the others. Also if mig welded correctly, less heat is added because of the speed of laydown travel. I am under the understanding that heat treating is only needed on the thicker wall stuff as it can chill a weld area quicker. The thinner wall stuff doesn't need it if welded correctly. I tiged my DOM cage. Now if I could just be younger so I could see it better and not shake, I wouldn't have to keep re-pointing the tungston. Gosh i went through four 6" tungstons In the process. Should have been less then one.

Lenny

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I knew that molly could be mig welded and actually it is not any harder then welding the others. Also if mig welded correctly, less heat is added because of the speed of laydown travel. I am under the understanding that heat treating is only needed on the thicker wall stuff as it can chill a weld area quicker. The thinner wall stuff doesn't need it if welded correctly. I tiged my DOM cage. Now if I could just be younger so I could see it better and not shake, I wouldn't have to keep re-pointing the tungston. Gosh i went through four 6" tungstons In the process. Should have been less then one.

Lenny

It seems that im the youngest in the bunch of trooper owners ,lol @ 29 . I actually mig welded my rear cage, did a bit of tig on it but decided time was better spent bending tubing than welding one joint

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  • 2 weeks later...

Great! Looking forward to pics.

What tires did you select?

I'm interested to see what you did for T-bar. I've been thinking mine needs that too.

Regarding your shocks, have you had the nitrogen charge checked/filled? I took mine to local off road shop and they were at about 80-90 psi. He filled them to 150 psi and I am very happy with ride. The "Boss" even comments on how good it rides! You might try that first if you haven't already.

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