Rear right tire blew out going down the gravel road the other day, tried plugging it, but it was on the sidewall and it kept tearing down the sidewall, (rear tires are probably 10 years old, at least), so i called the dealership here in town since i knew they keep tires in stock.
Employee:"thank you for calling pro powersports how can i help you"
Me:"i need to check on a price for a rear tire, 01 mule 550 KAF300C5, tire size is 22x11-10"
Employee"alright, hang on one sec"
Employee "$237 for 1 tire"
Me :"thank you sir"
I found single tires on ebay and amazon and RM atv etc for about $70 or $80 shipping not included, so i ordered this set off amazon,
supposed to be here Tuesday, I'll be sure to keep this thread updated on how the tires do so maybe if someone else wants try this $50 a tire deal.
I recently acquired a new 2020 Coleman Outfitter 400 and overall am quite pleased with it. I had the "too be expected" loose bolts (first thing I checked), all related to the final assembly conducted by the pimple-faced kid "mechanic" at Tractor Supply.--the bolts in the upper driver's side roll bar joint were just hand tight, as were those of the upper seat belt anchors--but other than that it had been pretty well assembled.
The included owner's manual is not current; it speaks of using the choke to cold-start the motor (it's EFI, no choke), and shows the ignition and lighting switches as dash-mounted when in fact they are on the steering column. It also direct you to remove the seat to change the spark plug--except that on this revision the cylinder tilts rearward and the cylinder head in found beneath the dump bed. Other maintenance tasks are similarly ill-described and it is generally useless.
I did find the exhaust note to be a bit strident and devised the following to tone it down a bit. I used one of those inexpensive 1" NPT female inlet B&S "muffin" mufflers that have been around for decades, and a steel 1" EMT to steel box adapters that have been available for a like time:
1" EMT has an outside diameter of 29.5 mm, the tailpipe extension on the beast is 28 mm O.D.--so I use a partially overlapped cylindrical shim spacer of 28 ga. (0.47 mm) galvanized sheet metal to fit the EMT adapter to the tailpipe . Bedded well in muffler putty the single set screw on the adapter mounted it up quite firmly.On my first ride I found the motor to feel and sound a bit constipated--so i drilled out the 106 1/8" holes in the faced of the muffin to 9/64". This is a 26.5% increase in area [(9/64)^2 / (1/8)^2 = 1.2656]
That made the difference needed to restore proper flow without making it too loud again:It
is arguably not a pretty as some of the $100+ aftermarket alternative, but at $15 for the muffler and adapter it better fits my budget.Make sure you get the genuine B&S part (# 392989) as the 3rd party clones lack an inner baffle that makes them inherently louder than the B&S piece.
FWIW--I also removed the front anti-roll bar--and have found little to no adverse effect on handling (and arguably some positive effect)--it also got rid of an annoying rattle from the low-quality driver's side roll bar tie-rod end. Put in an iridium spark plug too...
I am a mechanical engineering student who is trying to design a UTV to be used by maintenance workers around parks and university campuses. One of our unique selling points was that the rear cargo area would be modular so it can be swapped out for different "rear modules". For example, it could just be cargo hold but also a cage, refrigeration, more passenger seats or carrying woodchip etc.
What would be an easy way of detaching the different rear modules and swapping with a new one? A way of securing it to the frame but also allowing it to be removed with ease. From what I've seen, most UTV bodies are directly bolted to the frame.
Thank you for reading.