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Kinarfi

Broke output shaft in Mary Ellen Gulch

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Went for a ride up Mary Ellen Gulch to test my new shock absorbors and they worked great, but I sheared my out put shaft, I wasn't under much of load, so I think it had to have cracked else where and then maybe things had bound up when I pulled off the road and caused it to fail the rest of the way.

2152670260104110397OdGkbC_th.jpg http://travel.websho...583118836BfphkV 2920266050104110397AlGDfW_th.jpg Yep broke #5

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WOW. Fascinating. How the hell did you do that? And more importantly, will it happen to me? :)

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If its what I think I'm seeing, its the rear spleen coming out of the transmission which is sheared off. if it is, its the second time I have seen this. First time was with Rocmoc at Moab. He let the clutch out a little hard when starting to roll back torwards a dropoff while in 2 wheel drive and on rock. I wouldn't worry about this unless your doing burnouts on pavement. Always try to stay a little smooth when letting out the clutch. This is sometimes hard for Kinarfi to do, bless his heart. Unfortunately, it requires removing and dismantling the transmission to replace the shaft.

Lenny

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I have no idea why this happened, I always thought I took things semi easy, if I did it on this trip, look at the 2 videos on my shock test trip up Mary Ellen Gulch. I was in 4X4 all the time and locker occasionally. I was on my way out when I stopped by pulling off the road uphill and using the Ebrake. When I start up again, I backed up and heard a pop, my buddy, Jim, said 'that didn't sound good" and I agreed and we went on down the road, Later, As I went up a slight hill, it didn't feel like I had the traction I should and I saw the front wheel kicking out dirt while spinning. I put in 2 wheel drive and let the clutch out, NOTHING!!! back into 4X4 and head for home in my front wheel drive vehicle. Had to keep it under 10 MPH or the rear drive line would start flopping around, got home, took photos and called it a day.

Oh damn, I didn't want to wasted the summer working on this thing, wanted to go drive it.

Kinarfi

Re read the first post in this thread, I rewrote it.

http://travel.websho...583118836BfphkV

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Make sure you replace the seals on the output shafts. They didn't when mine was repaired and they leaked.

As Lenny said I broke mine, it was my fault not the Trooper's. I don't think it would happen under normal use.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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Well, that puts my mind at ease. I'm guessing that in this case the shaft might not have been heat treated properly.

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It would be cool if we could rebuild the transmission and transfer case to be much stronger and manipulate gear ratio as well.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

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ordered new shaft,

154 for the shaft

+ tax

+ shipping

178.71 total

Mike at Joyner said he didn't think I would need seals, and like a dummy, I didn't order any, guess I'll follow your advice and order locally.

He also said I could change it out with out pulling the engine.

editorial and photos to follow.

Kinarfi

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That is good news Kinarfi. Maybe you will be up and running soon. I have a transmission output shaft seal leaking. Thats my next project, Plan on sliding the engine back a couple of inches to get things off the front drive shaft. Easier then moving the front drive shaft forward because of the way I have my parking brake setup.

Lenny

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That is good news Kinarfi. Maybe you will be up and running soon. I have a transmission output shaft seal leaking. Thats my next project, Plan on sliding the engine back a couple of inches to get things off the front drive shaft. Easier then moving the front drive shaft forward because of the way I have my parking brake setup.

Lenny

How difficult would it be to set the front drive line up to be the same as the rear, that is; single drive line with CVs and a pin to hold it onto the splines so you don't to move the engine or the diff?

PS I'll know more about what I'm asking later today after I've been under the Trooper.

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If you could find a drive shaft shaft with a spleen on each end on which to sllide the CVs it would be fairly simple. To make a shaft woud be a project because it would require a special cutter and a complex machining operation on each end. That would have to be followed by heat treating. In my case I don't use any CVs or u-joints on the front shaft. It's a one piece shaft with the female spleens cut from from the previous u-joints being welded to the ends. It cannot be removed without either sliding the engine/transmission back or the front diff forward. It also requires aligning the front diff input shaft to the transmission output shaft. You can remove the front drive shaft without moving the engine or front diff on a stock Trooper anyway. The shaft is telescoped at its center support point. On mine there is no center support point anymore.

Lenny

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Can u please show few pictures of this driveshaft with spleen,

I think i might get lucky finding one with all agricultural and trucker parts here

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

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Playing with the grand-kids today, as I take the broken part out, it will get photographed and so will the new on that I have ordered.

Kinarfi

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Kinarfi, just wanted to let you know that you will probably want to remove the transmission anyway. You can open up the transmission, once the engine is removed, while it is still in the frame but there is a problem with that. When I took a tansmission apart to see if gearing changing was possible, I found that part of the shifting mechnisem connects to the inside of the transmission case cover plate. I had to crack it open about 1/2" and, using 2 fingers,sneak a wrench in there to unbolt a peice. It was pretty hard to get at and getting it back together was even tougher. I just can't image doing it while crammed into the engine well with no room to freely move around to work. Unless there is a way to remove the shaft without removing the case cover, for myslef, I wouldn't even consider trying to do in in the frame. I didn't see any other way to remove the shaft but by removing the case cover. It will be much easier to put it on the bench.

Lenny

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Got my order, wrong part, bad advice, they sent the drive shaft instead of the output shaft and the advice was geared to drive shaft.

The only good thing is that the output shaft costs less than the drive shaft. Engine and trans do have to be pulled and the transmission split.

While underneath, I found 4 more cracks and one was actually a break. Not sure what to do, ought to take it to the top of hill and let it roll down empty, and then go set it on fire where it came to rest and collect the insurance seems to be what I think is the best idea. The other most likely thing will be to strip the plastics off, pull the engine and trans, I have to do that anyway, hang it in the tree by it's winch, and plate the bottom while fixing the cracks and breaks or just sell it for parts and go get something else.

Pretty disgusted right now, maybe I should just drive it over a cliff, no more problems for me, ever!!!

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Honestly, I would contact Casey and see if he or one of his buddies will do the repair. When Casey repaired my mishap I dropped it off with him in the morning and picked it up in the afternoon. Pulling it out & reinstalling was enough work and savings for me! Somethings are just not worth the effort when someone else is an expert & faster.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

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"Cracked" by this you mean the frame? Or worse?

If its the frame, Grab a bottle of decent wine, enjoy with wife, then enjoy wife. Start over in the morn.

If its worse, I know where we can get explosives...

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This thread should be label broken trooper. The following photo were taken with my phone while I was laying under the trooper and shot from very awkward angles, I'll try to describe the area of each

2101372000104110397ppbRhr_th.jpg 2007471440104110397mdbyRu_th.jpg below the right side rear lower hiem joint

2077556660104110397obRiMb_th.jpg 2879563840104110397fnhmGq_th.jpg below the left side rear hiem joint

TOO BE EDITED or not

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