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Well after 5 months of sitting in my trailer since my last trip out with the Trooper last month i pulled her out into the garage where she has been sitting untouched.I finally got to checking her out for my next trip(not sure when). I notice the right rear wheel just wasnt looking right(kind of angeled) so i started checking it out and found the swing arm tweeked a bit. Now i need to replace it. Just wondering if anyone by chance happens to have one they want to sell.

Thanks,

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MIne is tweeked real bad ...just going to tweek it bad then I am going to Box It. Mine looks like this \ on Pass side..LOL No jumping or anything.. It seems they will all do this and this is the fix....Just search on here. Cant remember who did theirs and posted pics......

yea i know its happened to others. One fix to help prevent it is to relocate the shock mounts out towards the end of the swing arm but of course i did not do that.

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Yes you can twist it back. What you want to do in move the lower shock mount as close to the tire as possible. This will reduce the induced torsion thats trying to twist the swing arm a lot. Its the this torsion that is damaging the swing arm. I also boxed mine a long time ago. The bottom needs to get closed up and weld all the boxing sheet metal with continous welds. The problem that shows up after boxing the swing arm is that now the stress is consentrated on the swings arms pivot end. On mine, one of the pivot sleeves broke completely off so I ended up reinforcing the end considerably. Then with all that solid, the stress moved to the frame tube that hold the tabs that the swing arm pivot bolts go thru. I tore that piece of tube comletely off too at the last jamboree. Now that is all reinforced too and finally its fixed for good. I can beat the daylights out of it and nothing moves any more. Just ask Rocmoc, he rode with me thru the woopde doos. I'm not nice with mine. You know its got to be tough when your running woopde doos at speed and you hit one that it bigger then the rest. It starts to slam things hard, real hard but it takes it.

Lenny

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Yes you can twist it back. What you want to do in move the lower shock mount as close to the tire as possible. This will reduce the induced torsion thats trying to twist the swing arm a lot. Its the this torsion that is damaging the swing arm. I also boxed mine a long time ago. The bottom needs to get closed up and weld all the boxing sheet metal with continous welds. The problem that shows up after boxing the swing arm is that now the stress is consentrated on the swings arms pivot end. On mine, one of the pivot sleeves broke completely off so I ended up reinforcing the end considerably. Then with all that solid, the stress moved to the frame tube that hold the tabs that the swing arm pivot bolts go thru. I tore that piece of tube comletely off too at the last jamboree. Now that is all reinforced too and finally its fixed for good. I can beat the daylights out of it and nothing moves any more. Just ask Rocmoc, he rode with me thru the woopde doos. I'm not nice with mine. You know its got to be tough when your running woopde doos at speed and you hit one that it bigger then the rest. It starts to slam things hard, real hard but it takes it.

Lenny

i get the moving mounts out close to tire and boxing it in.But got to take the tweek out first right? only way i can think of is by heating it up and bending it back,any thoughts?

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I suspect that he top of the wheel leans in. I would try using a long leverage bar or big piece of pipe.. Some how hook it, clamp it, stick it thru, even weld it or what ever works to get a good hold of the back of the swing arm so you can push down, with lots of friends, to twist the swing arm back in place. Leave the swing arm mounted to the Trooper and put a jack stand under the outside of the frame just ahead of the swing arms pivot point. I'm thinking like a 8 to 10 foot long piece of 3" pipe or tubing. You should be able to do it cold. Then again, you drive pretty fast so it was probably red hot when you twisted it.

Lenny

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I suspect that he top of the wheel leans in. I would try using a long leverage bar or big piece of pipe.. Some how hook it, clamp it, stick it thru, even weld it or what ever works to get a good hold of the back of the swing arm so you can push down, with lots of friends, to twist the swing arm back in place. Leave the swing arm mounted to the Trooper and put a jack stand under the outside of the frame just ahead of the swing arms pivot point. I'm thinking like a 8 to 10 foot long piece of 3" pipe or tubing. You should be able to do it cold. Then again, you drive pretty fast so it was probably red hot when you twisted it.

Lenny

I tried almost exactly that. I put the jack stand under the swing arm at the point it looks like the tweek starts with the wheel off. I have a 35 year old heavy duty floor jack and the jack handle is about 5' long and i tried using that as leverage to twist it back. I jumped on it and all that happened was it kept lifting the trooper up. Handle never bent.

Lenny, what do you mean i drive fast????? when ive been out with you guys all of you have to run with your emergency brake on just so i wont fall too far back out of site...(lol)

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Charlie,

Way i see it....we could go out and buy brand name and pay double or more and still have to replace stuff on it. I see it that i save money buying a trooper and already faster than any other out the box.

The money we saved by buying Joyner can be spent in improving Joyner then when we spend as much as what others spent on ranger/rzr etc well i believe we got an completely better machine that's out of other utv league for now anyways.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

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Charlie,

Way i see it....we could go out and buy brand name and pay double or more and still have to replace stuff on it. I see it that i save money buying a trooper and already faster than any other out the box.

The money we saved by buying Joyner can be spent in improving Joyner then when we spend as much as what others spent on ranger/rzr etc well i believe we got an completely better machine that's out of other utv league for now anyways.

Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2

I think you are right..Along with the fact that if you pull up to someone on a Razor they say..... Hey whats up? You say nothing.... Now if you in your Trooper STock setup...... They ride up to you and say Hey what is that that's BAD ASS! Did you make it? And then they listen to you like WOW...I wish Id bought one!

Plus if you go out and beat the shit out of anything something is gonna break Sooner or later... Might take longer but will.... THe Joyner were I stand is a work in progress that no one else in my area has .Everything you do to your Trooper is going to be a little different from everyone else's to a point..I like being different and I guess that takes work.......OR MONEY which I don't have for the Joyner... If I had a Razor or similar I would be trying to make my own stuff anyways..to be different .I hate being the same except when I get Lazy...LOL Going with Charlies shocks...LOL So IF you can't cut grind weld and be a Mechanic your up a creek with JOyner T2.....or any other if you dont have the cash. .You can have the BEST OF THE BEST and still have a dead battery.....or other things wrong and not have a clue....Sorry for the rambling...LOL Not hating on anyone..........Just Sayin.......

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thanx for the moral boost guys I appreciate it and you are right when ever any one sees it there like what the fuck is that and when I tell them it can go on the street there like holy shit. I as well like being different maybe the answer is to get a welder and polish up on my welding and fab skills. Mechanically I do pretty well and go threw my T2 all the time but I havnt been on the forum in a while and just seems like theres a lot going on. But i should remind myself you guys riding conditions are diffrent than mine and a lot of you have much more milage than I do. one thing is for sure theres a great group of people on this forum to help and that counts for something all the support. Dan when you get ready to do the shocks and if you need help or advice on what I did let me know. I gotta say my last ride out was pretty awsome high speeds mud some rocks hills. theres this one trail I go on and there is a hard corner and rocks on one side threw the l/s on the rocks made it threw with only the rear locked I usually have it in 4x4 and locked in rear cause it use to just bounce threw it with the old suspension

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Hey Charlie I will be talking to you....Want to get my stupid steering in it first then working on brakes... And welding is Cut grind weld... grind weld grind weld LOL...Some times its fun if you have to try to make it.....Not knowing if you can.... Hey Guys take a look at this photo repost-1572-0-13773400-1352303063_thumb.jpgad it and give opinions .

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I forgot to mention that there is another way to correct for a twisted swing arm. First get it twisted back as much as you can then weld and box it in up tight. Then after you have everything back together, set your rear end to the ride heigth that you generally run at. From here there is one of two things you can do to determine where you want to go with it. In my case, I chose to have my reat wheels straight up at normal ride heigth, not leaning in or out. Keep in mind that as the wheel travels through its suspension travel, because the swing arms inner pivot point if farther to the rear then the outer one, the wheel goes from tipped on top to tiped out as it goes from full bump to full droop respectively. As a result, if your running only 2 or 3" off full droop, you may want to set it up to have the wheels tip out some when at your normal ride height. In my case, I'm tipped in some if I run heavy or run softer and I tip out if I tighten up the springs to run stiffer for more clearance.

Once you determine where you want the wheels, use a square to measure where the wheels are currently at as far as tip in or out amount. Now remove the wheels and the the top bolt that holds the spindle assembly to the swing arm and loosen the bottom one. Put a mark horzontally over from the hole on top where you removed the bolt say 1/2" or so to give you a referance to where the pressent hole is. Next plug the hole by inserting a short round plug in it and welding it in place. Do this to both holes on top. Based on how much you needed to tip the wheel one way or the other, re drill the rear most hole to correct for the wheel position you chose. Swing the spindle assemble in place to line up with this drilled hole and let this pilot your drill to drill the second more forward hole. Now your back in business. If you don't reinforce your swing arm pivot ends and the frame where the swing arm pivots from, you'll be doing this again at some point.

Lenny

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.... Hey Guys take a look at this photo repost-1572-0-13773400-1352303063_thumb.jpgad it and give opinions .

I have 4 holes on mine to be able to move the shock around. Was great for when I was still setting up the suspension because I could try different things a lot easier. If you move the top back, you'll make it ride softer but it will also allow your wheel to move up a bit more. I run bump stops on mine so i let mine go up as far as I can without csusing problems to get extra wheel travel.

Lenny

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