Swing arm

[ricksrb]

Well after 5 months of sitting in my trailer since my last trip out with the Trooper last month i pulled her out into the garage where she has been sitting untouched.I finally got to checking her out for my next trip(not sure when). I notice the right rear wheel just wasnt looking right(kind of angeled) so i started checking it out and found the swing arm tweeked a bit. Now i need to replace it. Just wondering if anyone by chance happens to have one they want to sell.

Thanks,

[bigdan120]

MIne is tweeked real bad ...just going to tweek it bad then I am going to Box It. Mine looks like this \ on Pass side..LOL No jumping or anything.. It seems they will all do this and this is the fix....Just search on here. Cant remember who did theirs and posted pics......

[ricksrb]

MIne is tweeked real bad ...just going to tweek it bad then I am going to Box It. Mine looks like this \ on Pass side..LOL No jumping or anything.. It seems they will all do this and this is the fix....Just search on here. Cant remember who did theirs and posted pics......

yea i know its happened to others. One fix to help prevent it is to relocate the shock mounts out towards the end of the swing arm but of course i did not do that.

[bigdan120]

Yeah me either... Waiting for time to tweek and weld LOL!

[Guest Lenny]

Yes you can twist it back. What you want to do in move the lower shock mount as close to the tire as possible. This will reduce the induced torsion thats trying to twist the swing arm a lot. Its the this torsion that is damaging the swing arm. I also boxed mine a long time ago. The bottom needs to get closed up and weld all the boxing sheet metal with continous welds. The problem that shows up after boxing the swing arm is that now the stress is consentrated on the swings arms pivot end. On mine, one of the pivot sleeves broke completely off so I ended up reinforcing the end considerably. Then with all that solid, the stress moved to the frame tube that hold the tabs that the swing arm pivot bolts go thru. I tore that piece of tube comletely off too at the last jamboree. Now that is all reinforced too and finally its fixed for good. I can beat the daylights out of it and nothing moves any more. Just ask Rocmoc, he rode with me thru the woopde doos. I'm not nice with mine. You know its got to be tough when your running woopde doos at speed and you hit one that it bigger then the rest. It starts to slam things hard, real hard but it takes it.

Lenny

[ricksrb]

Yes you can twist it back. What you want to do in move the lower shock mount as close to the tire as possible. This will reduce the induced torsion thats trying to twist the swing arm a lot. Its the this torsion that is damaging the swing arm. I also boxed mine a long time ago. The bottom needs to get closed up and weld all the boxing sheet metal with continous welds. The problem that shows up after boxing the swing arm is that now the stress is consentrated on the swings arms pivot end. On mine, one of the pivot sleeves broke completely off so I ended up reinforcing the end considerably. Then with all that solid, the stress moved to the frame tube that hold the tabs that the swing arm pivot bolts go thru. I tore that piece of tube comletely off too at the last jamboree. Now that is all reinforced too and finally its fixed for good. I can beat the daylights out of it and nothing moves any more. Just ask Rocmoc, he rode with me thru the woopde doos. I'm not nice with mine. You know its got to be tough when your running woopde doos at speed and you hit one that it bigger then the rest. It starts to slam things hard, real hard but it takes it.

Lenny

i get the moving mounts out close to tire and boxing it in.But got to take the tweek out first right? only way i can think of is by heating it up and bending it back,any thoughts?

[Guest Lenny]

I suspect that he top of the wheel leans in. I would try using a long leverage bar or big piece of pipe.. Some how hook it, clamp it, stick it thru, even weld it or what ever works to get a good hold of the back of the swing arm so you can push down, with lots of friends, to twist the swing arm back in place. Leave the swing arm mounted to the Trooper and put a jack stand under the outside of the frame just ahead of the swing arms pivot point. I'm thinking like a 8 to 10 foot long piece of 3" pipe or tubing. You should be able to do it cold. Then again, you drive pretty fast so it was probably red hot when you twisted it.

Lenny

[charlie]

hey I just saw this were exactly are you guys seeing this twist on the swing arm

[nocturnalsixer]

I broke mine off at front joint so i added triangle gussets to both top and bottom sides of the front joints

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[ricksrb]

I suspect that he top of the wheel leans in. I would try using a long leverage bar or big piece of pipe.. Some how hook it, clamp it, stick it thru, even weld it or what ever works to get a good hold of the back of the swing arm so you can push down, with lots of friends, to twist the swing arm back in place. Leave the swing arm mounted to the Trooper and put a jack stand under the outside of the frame just ahead of the swing arms pivot point. I'm thinking like a 8 to 10 foot long piece of 3" pipe or tubing. You should be able to do it cold. Then again, you drive pretty fast so it was probably red hot when you twisted it.

Lenny

I tried almost exactly that. I put the jack stand under the swing arm at the point it looks like the tweek starts with the wheel off. I have a 35 year old heavy duty floor jack and the jack handle is about 5' long and i tried using that as leverage to twist it back. I jumped on it and all that happened was it kept lifting the trooper up. Handle never bent.

Lenny, what do you mean i drive fast????? when ive been out with you guys all of you have to run with your emergency brake on just so i wont fall too far back out of site...(lol)

[ricksrb]

hey I just saw this were exactly are you guys seeing this twist on the swing arm

Mine appears to start where the swing arm kind of turns out towards the wheel mount, roughly half way between the shock mount and the end of the swing arm.

[charlie]

Chesh every time I like my trooper I see more discouraging reports who wants to buy it

[nocturnalsixer]

Charlie,

Way i see it....we could go out and buy brand name and pay double or more and still have to replace stuff on it. I see it that i save money buying a trooper and already faster than any other out the box.

The money we saved by buying Joyner can be spent in improving Joyner then when we spend as much as what others spent on ranger/rzr etc well i believe we got an completely better machine that's out of other utv league for now anyways.

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[bigdan120]

Charlie,

Way i see it....we could go out and buy brand name and pay double or more and still have to replace stuff on it. I see it that i save money buying a trooper and already faster than any other out the box.

The money we saved by buying Joyner can be spent in improving Joyner then when we spend as much as what others spent on ranger/rzr etc well i believe we got an completely better machine that's out of other utv league for now anyways.

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I think you are right..Along with the fact that if you pull up to someone on a Razor they say..... Hey whats up? You say nothing.... Now if you in your Trooper STock setup...... They ride up to you and say Hey what is that that's BAD ASS! Did you make it? And then they listen to you like WOW...I wish Id bought one!

Plus if you go out and beat the shit out of anything something is gonna break Sooner or later... Might take longer but will.... THe Joyner were I stand is a work in progress that no one else in my area has .Everything you do to your Trooper is going to be a little different from everyone else's to a point..I like being different and I guess that takes work.......OR MONEY which I don't have for the Joyner... If I had a Razor or similar I would be trying to make my own stuff anyways..to be different .I hate being the same except when I get Lazy...LOL Going with Charlies shocks...LOL So IF you can't cut grind weld and be a Mechanic your up a creek with JOyner T2.....or any other if you dont have the cash. .You can have the BEST OF THE BEST and still have a dead battery.....or other things wrong and not have a clue....Sorry for the rambling...LOL Not hating on anyone..........Just Sayin.......

[charlie]

thanx for the moral boost guys I appreciate it and you are right when ever any one sees it there like what the fuck is that and when I tell them it can go on the street there like holy shit. I as well like being different maybe the answer is to get a welder and polish up on my welding and fab skills. Mechanically I do pretty well and go threw my T2 all the time but I havnt been on the forum in a while and just seems like theres a lot going on. But i should remind myself you guys riding conditions are diffrent than mine and a lot of you have much more milage than I do. one thing is for sure theres a great group of people on this forum to help and that counts for something all the support. Dan when you get ready to do the shocks and if you need help or advice on what I did let me know. I gotta say my last ride out was pretty awsome high speeds mud some rocks hills. theres this one trail I go on and there is a hard corner and rocks on one side threw the l/s on the rocks made it threw with only the rear locked I usually have it in 4x4 and locked in rear cause it use to just bounce threw it with the old suspension

[bigdan120]

Hey Charlie I will be talking to you....Want to get my stupid steering in it first then working on brakes... And welding is Cut grind weld... grind weld grind weld LOL...Some times its fun if you have to try to make it.....Not knowing if you can.... Hey Guys take a look at this photo read it and give opinions .

[Guest Lenny]

I forgot to mention that there is another way to correct for a twisted swing arm. First get it twisted back as much as you can then weld and box it in up tight. Then after you have everything back together, set your rear end to the ride heigth that you generally run at. From here there is one of two things you can do to determine where you want to go with it. In my case, I chose to have my reat wheels straight up at normal ride heigth, not leaning in or out. Keep in mind that as the wheel travels through its suspension travel, because the swing arms inner pivot point if farther to the rear then the outer one, the wheel goes from tipped on top to tiped out as it goes from full bump to full droop respectively. As a result, if your running only 2 or 3" off full droop, you may want to set it up to have the wheels tip out some when at your normal ride height. In my case, I'm tipped in some if I run heavy or run softer and I tip out if I tighten up the springs to run stiffer for more clearance.

Once you determine where you want the wheels, use a square to measure where the wheels are currently at as far as tip in or out amount. Now remove the wheels and the the top bolt that holds the spindle assembly to the swing arm and loosen the bottom one. Put a mark horzontally over from the hole on top where you removed the bolt say 1/2" or so to give you a referance to where the pressent hole is. Next plug the hole by inserting a short round plug in it and welding it in place. Do this to both holes on top. Based on how much you needed to tip the wheel one way or the other, re drill the rear most hole to correct for the wheel position you chose. Swing the spindle assemble in place to line up with this drilled hole and let this pilot your drill to drill the second more forward hole. Now your back in business. If you don't reinforce your swing arm pivot ends and the frame where the swing arm pivots from, you'll be doing this again at some point.

Lenny

[Guest Lenny]

.... Hey Guys take a look at this photo read it and give opinions .

I have 4 holes on mine to be able to move the shock around. Was great for when I was still setting up the suspension because I could try different things a lot easier. If you move the top back, you'll make it ride softer but it will also allow your wheel to move up a bit more. I run bump stops on mine so i let mine go up as far as I can without csusing problems to get extra wheel travel.

Lenny

[bigdan120]

I understand that but will I need to increase the spring tension to keep ride height? SO I would be back to Square 1.....?

[charlie]

well im gonna check my swing arms and leave shock mounts alone for now I just got the ride pretty much were I want it and I have spent enough money in chanbging the suspension to change it again lol

[bigdan120]

No I wouldn't change it again...Looks like yours figured out the way you like it......I need to find some shocks for cheap lol.....

[Guest Lenny]

I understand that but will I need to increase the spring tension to keep ride height? SO I would be back to Square 1.....?

No not necessarily. If you need to, for example, go softer, you can do one of three things or a combination of them. You can go to a lighter spring, back off on the springs preload, or move the shock mounts. If I back off the spring adjustment and it's still not soft enough, I move the top shock mount position torwards the front. If that is too soft, I start to adjust the spring preload tigher. This of coarse works in the other direction for going stiffer. I get to try many more setup combinations then with just one top shock mount postiion. If I'm going to spend money on different springs, I now have a much closer idea of where I might need to be with the new spring rates. Over a couple of years of playing with my suspenhsion, I went through probably 15 to 20 sets of springs. What I learned is that If I wanted to get it perfect, I either had to spend a lot of money on springs or be able to play with what I had through a bigger range before moving to new springs. Having an adjustable top shock mount not only lessened the number of springs I needed to buy but greatly speeded up the tuning process. To help the process, I bought springs off Ebay, waiting for good deals. Then I sold the ones I eliminated back on Ebay and came close to breaking even. You can adjust springs to the point of bind, really your susposed to stop short of that point, so you have to pay attention. If I need a spring now, I make sure the ones I buy are real high quality, more expensive but not in the end game. The higher quality springs use a much smaller wire size and make up for it with higher quality steels. They will compress much farther before spring bind giving you an expanded range in which to adjust them.

Had a long conversation with Lance King of King shocks at the SEMA show last week. He said pretty much the same thing I ended up with. I should of asked him to begin with and saved a lot of fussing and learning. He said go as soft as you can and control it with compression dampening, I'm real soft and have very little compression dampening. He said then to adjust rebound dampening to prevent it from pushing back too quick causing it to want to lift he buggy too quick or hard but fast enough to keep the wheels on the ground through quick dips and after cresting humps. I have my dampening set quite high. Fromt he start, I found I was alway going to a lighter and lighter spring as I got closer to what felt right. My final spring rates were half of where I started wh ich was below stock.

Lenny

[ricksrb]

Chesh every time I like my trooper I see more discouraging reports who wants to buy it

with the problems i still would not sell mine for that reason. It may not be the best looking model out there but i see all the other brands being towed in and broke down all the time.

[charlie]

See u guys are all lucky u get to ride and see other Joyners and troopers only side by side I ride with is my brothers rzr570 wich is a pretty Awsome little ride! I guess I'm just trying to make the trooper perfect wich it's not but nothing really is I guess lol

[nocturnalsixer]

See u guys are all lucky u get to ride and see other Joyners and troopers only side by side I ride with is my brothers rzr570 wich is a pretty Awsome little ride! I guess I'm just trying to make the trooper perfect wich it's not but nothing really is I guess lol

I wish i was that lucky lol, there's no one else that i know here that have ATV or UTV to go riding with me so i just go trail riding with wife solo

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[charlie]

We're r u located nocturnalsixer

[nocturnalsixer]

We're r u located nocturnalsixer

Southwest Iowa

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[Detbohica]

I'm trying to rife beside race cars most of the time blew the tranny on a desert track chasing a full size Bronco that invested almost 40 k. In the tight turns I could stay up his butt though.

I have raced a quad in Baja for some time and I love my trooper. Yeah I tear the shit out of it, but that's what I bought it for was to terrorize the desert. Just wish I had the mechanical skills good thing I have a mechanic that can help.

Keep the chins up this is a great toy.

[ERV JR]

something to check is is the bolts where the trailing arm mounts to the frame and the bolts for the spindles. I know mine are aorn and loose. I noticed it when replacing the shock I was able to grab the arm and wiggle it around,also the bolt for the shock was worn and had almost an offset to it.

The quality of the bolts seems poor and wear alot ,so it could be a combonation of spindle and trailing arm bolts worn and causing problems.

When I get the chance I wil put it back on my hoist and replace the bolts check the mounting brackets to see if holes are oval and mount the arm in double sheer.

[SD 2009 Trooper]

Hi there

I am new to this site, Hello to all my name is Glenn

Glade to find such a great forum. I seem to have the same problem with my rear swing arms. I am waiting to get back my rear shocks to start fixing my swing arms. Do you have any pics of your after boxing them. I have owned my T-2 for 2 years now and this is the first big repair I have needed to do. The other problem is with my 4x4 pin will not slide back to 2wd without having to push it in, anyone else have this problem?