Quantcast
Jump to content

Getting more power


Lenny
 Share

Recommended Posts

I had recently found that I had a setting in my Megasquirt controller set wrong. It was a setting that controls how fuel is added when it is warming up but the way I had it set made a big change in how the handled the regular running fuel. When set correctly it should always be at 100 or better. I had it set at 6. I started over from scratch and loaded the newest controller firmware and retuned. Lickly I was able to use the same Air/Fuel ratio tables so I didn't have to give up the dyno work that gave me 121 hp. And that was with things set wrong. After the change, I gained a noticable increase in low end torque and power plus I was able it to run much better at low rpms.

Going to be riding on BLM land requires a spark arrestor so I stopped in Las Vegas on my way down to Parker and picked up one. Its a nice stainless steel muffler about 10" long with spark arrestor and made for better preformance. I removed my Harley davidson muffler and replaced it with the new one. Wow what an increase in low end power it added to the increase above. As result I decided to eliminate the Cat Converter and run just the muffler for less back pressure yet. I made a new flange with stub pipe to bolt on where the Cat Converter was and mounted the new muffler to it. It's a straight shot out now. Haven't tuned it yet so don't know how much it will help. Changing the muffler changes the controller table requirments. Will start tuning tomorrow, excited about it.

To get to the more power point this thread referred to, I found something wrong I never looked at before. The flange, that is welded to the end of the exhaust header pipes, has a hole through it that is about 1/4" smallert then the tubing ID it is welded to. This has produced a large step that the exhaust gases has to jump up over. This is causing a serious amount of restriction to the escaping exhaust gases. The step causes heavy turbulance that really necks down the exhaust effective pipe size. I have corrected mine and feel that those that make this correction will see a noticable increase in power at all rpms. Gosh, on the stock unit, the exhaust has to hit up against severe mis-alignment of the ports (big steps here too) going from the head to the header pipe and then has to hit up against another wall when leaving the header pipe. This isn't saying anything about the badly mis-aligned intake ports. There is a lot more power in that engine just from porting it correctly from intake out through the exhaust.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 30
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I had recently found that I had a setting in my Megasquirt controller set wrong. It was a setting that controls how fuel is added when it is warming up but the way I had it set made a big change in how the handled the regular running fuel. When set correctly it should always be at 100 or better. I had it set at 6. I started over from scratch and loaded the newest controller firmware and retuned. Lickly I was able to use the same Air/Fuel ratio tables so I didn't have to give up the dyno work that gave me 121 hp. And that was with things set wrong. After the change, I gained a noticable increase in low end torque and power plus I was able it to run much better at low rpms.

Going to be riding on BLM land requires a spark arrestor so I stopped in Las Vegas on my way down to Parker and picked up one. Its a nice stainless steel muffler about 10" long with spark arrestor and made for better preformance. I removed my Harley davidson muffler and replaced it with the new one. Wow what an increase in low end power it added to the increase above. As result I decided to eliminate the Cat Converter and run just the muffler for less back pressure yet. I made a new flange with stub pipe to bolt on where the Cat Converter was and mounted the new muffler to it. It's a straight shot out now. Haven't tuned it yet so don't know how much it will help. Changing the muffler changes the controller table requirments. Will start tuning tomorrow, excited about it.

To get to the more power point this thread referred to, I found something wrong I never looked at before. The flange, that is welded to the end of the exhaust header pipes, has a hole through it that is about 1/4" smallert then the tubing ID it is welded to. This has produced a large step that the exhaust gases has to jump up over. This is causing a serious amount of restriction to the escaping exhaust gases. The step causes heavy turbulance that really necks down the exhaust effective pipe size. I have corrected mine and feel that those that make this correction will see a noticable increase in power at all rpms. Gosh, on the stock unit, the exhaust has to hit up against severe mis-alignment of the ports (big steps here too) going from the head to the header pipe and then has to hit up against another wall when leaving the header pipe. This isn't saying anything about the badly mis-aligned intake ports. There is a lot more power in that engine just from porting it correctly from intake out through the exhaust.

Lenny

Lenny,

Thanks for the info. Can you give us the info on the spark arrestor? where to purchase, cost and is it available online?

Thank you,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For the muffler I have see: http://www.sidebysidesports.com/empi1071.html?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adwords&id=18500979626&utm_content=pla

I'm using the 10 muffler with seventeen 4" disks. It comes stock with 10 disk. The extra disk are about $3.50 each. You may not need extra disk. I'm producing somewhat more exhaust then a stock Trooper. This one is not stamped USFS approved. I needed one and couldn't find a USFS approved one quickly. They are available. I figure that as long as its the same as an approved one and I look so pethetic I would get away with it.

Bigdan120, I have lowered compression (so I can run premium pump gas) and run a supercharger along with the head ports, and the intake and exhaust maniflods being fully ported. I also have a torque cam. I think that if I were to bring it back to my dyno guy now, I could get 150 to 160 hp. His first tune was kept conservative. I didn't want to push the engine too far seeing as no one else has tried this hp range. I also limit my rpms to 5700. I've run it long enough to now feel confident that the engine is a good strong design and would take more hp without problems. If I were to have the crank 'strength treated' and went to stronger rods and pistons allowing me to limit my rpms at around 7000, I feel I could get maybe 175 to 200 hp. Its already fast so I don't need more hp. What I'm looking for is diesel like low end torque and I'm getting lots of that.

Here is an arrestor that is USFS approved: http://www.dragtimes.com/parts/Offroad-Spark-Arrestor-VW-Dune-Buggy-Sand-Rail-Exhaust_170302041924.html

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks.... I was just checking.......I was not sure what I want to do for HP... Running low budget and I was thinking an engine and trans swap might be alot cheaper in the long run for me. I can fab. I was going to go Honda so I could go cheap upgrades but trans is on wrong side....Dang...Maybe a small V6....We will see.....I was looking at a old Turbo 4cyl Dodge acclaim.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Than. For all the updates!! And tips Lenny u gotta pull god head to do the exhaust wrk I take matching right?? I thought I remember reading something on here about it??!! Also the exhaust basically unbolt it and match the holes on both ends of exhaust were the meet??? Is that correct if I can get some free power with easy wrk I am all about it

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Great post!!! I dont own a joyner but I do own an XY 1100 buggy that has the same SQR-472.. I am building CAI set-up and a nice exhaust as we speak so im excited to see what type of gains i'll see. After I get everything finished I'll probably go out an do some comparisions then come back and start wiring up a Haltech Sprint 500 with there wideband controller. If you dont mind me asking Lenny, Do you know what the teeth configuration is on the trigger wheel? And do you know where I can find a correct diagram of the factory ECU pin out? I went to joyners website and the diagram looks like its correct but the pin out below looks like its for a 3yl. Figured they messed up an put a 800cc diagram under it..lol.. I plan on running my Haltech inline with the factory ECU so if I had a pin out I wouldnt have to break the harness down and re-rap it to see what goes where. Hope I dident mess the thread up and any help would be gladly appreciated..

Thanks

Stephen Jessie

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You don't have to pull the head for the exhaust but it makes it a lot easier to get it right. You don't want to grind so much that you cut through to the water jacket. Make a gasket to fit the head perfectly and use it to determine what needs to be cut on the maniflod. Then reverse the process to get the rest of the matching out of the head side. I couldn't cut enough to get a perfect match so I added a 3/8" piece of aluminum plate to to match what was left. Remembet that for best flow, you want to always make a smooth transition form straight to curves. The intake requires you to remove the head. You can have it off in an hour and back on takes about 2 hours. Just keep track of where the shims go. with the head off, you can clean up the flow all the way to the valves. Monitor where the water jacket is real close.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm using an EDIS ignition with a 36-1 wheel. Joyner also runs edis type but the ecu controls it wheere as I have a seperate module. Kinarfi can maybe help with the pin outs. I gave him a drawing that showed it once so maybe he still has it. I made the drawing from tracing all the wires. It pretty well covered all the ecu pin ouys. I dought there is another diagram as complete out there.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I assume your talking about thew cam timing. Yes it is easy. There is a markon the top pully that lines up with a mark on the head and a mark on the bottom pulley that lines up with a little nub sticking out ot the oil pump housing. Just line up the marks. Be sure thay line up after you tighten the belt.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You want to match the ports. I also like to open up from the head port to the valves to get the best laminar floe. This part is a feel thing. You want the air to flow taking a smooth even route to the valves. Any quick turns or edges sets up turbulance which hinders flow. Picture a bobsled trying to make it thru. No matter what part of the port you start from, You want the sled to have a nice flowing path to the valve or from the valve to the port. I wouldn't bother to polish the ports but they should be smooth. No specific spec. If I was to be looking for that last split second time advantage, I would polish.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Josh, If I remember correctly you were going to build a Chery engine for maximum power, like 200hp. What happened to that idea or are you still doing it? I've had good reliaibility out of my engine at 121hp and am convinced the engine is quite a strong design. I was kinda of hoping that through your work I could decide rather I could safely crank mine up more. I have my rev limiter set at 5700rpms. I would like to crank it up to 7000 or 7500 but don't dare without stronger crank, rods and pistons. My dyno graph shows the HP still going up without any signs of rounding over or leveling off at 5700.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is great information guys I really appreciate it and will make my Haltech install a breeze now! Thanks a bunch!! Also would you all happen to know what size injectors come in our motors? This will make life great when im building my map.

I'm just going off a $hi##y memory here from all my research when I was looking to turbo charge, but I think stock injectors are 12lbs/hr, maybe 13.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm using an EDIS ignition with a 36-1 wheel. Joyner also runs edis type but the ecu controls it wheere as I have a seperate module. Kinarfi can maybe help with the pin outs. I gave him a drawing that showed it once so maybe he still has it. I made the drawing from tracing all the wires. It pretty well covered all the ecu pin ouys. I dought there is another diagram as complete out there.

Lenny

Hey Lenny if you dont mind me asking is that 36-1 trigger wheel that you are using the factory trigger wheel that came on it? or is it an aftermarket wheel you used because the Megasquirt could not fire the factory one? Im about to get head deep this weekend so any info would be helpful. Also do you know what the factory timing is set at from the factory?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share



×
×
  • Create New...