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uponahill

Cub Cadet Diesel UTV key on no lights and wont start

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No. Of Positions 4
No. Of Terminals 7
Manufactured by Delta Systems Inc.
The letters on the back of an ignition switch stand for the following:
M = Magneto
S = Starter Solenoid
L = Lights
A = Accessory
B = Battery
G = Ground
I = Ignition
R = Regulator/Rectifier
The designated terminal connects in some manner to that component. For example, the B terminal connects in some manner to the positive battery cable.

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I'm trying to figure out what color wire is the "hot" to the switch.  That seems to be where the problem is. It has to have a "hot"  to make every thing else work.

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the problem I see now is there is no hot going to the switch at all I jumped it from the battery .. there must be a relay switch or something that is not letting power come the fuse box but even when I jumped the fuse box I still cant get the glow plug light to come on or starter to engage

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Which wire are you jumping? Red or red/black? What if you jump from the battery straight to the ignition switch?

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25A fuse I was jumping to red not the red/black stripe I tried both red sent power to switch .. I'm not able to get to switch or the wires with 2 hands or even 1 hand just fingers without spending a lot of time tearing stuff apart just to get to the wires including the radiator and all that go's with it 

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Thanks for your help, Iv looked for one for hours a day, no luck an the Cub Cadet boys won't send me one like its a top secret thing lol .. you could be right but I'm unable to find anything not connected or corroded to many wires and color coding is not true .. frustratingly lost at this point I may have to take it to Cub Cadet .. grumbling!! Im sure that'll cost me but gota have it for winter hauling wood and cleaning snow from the driveway

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To find out which wire goes to the battery, use a continuity test. With the battery disconnected, and the key in the off position. Using a multi meter, set to ohms, run a jumper from the positive battery terminal, of the disconnected battery. Hook the jumper wire to one end of the meter, then probe all the terminals on the switch with the other. When you get a reading, there shouldn't be much difference between this reading, and just touching the meter terminals together. There'll probably be some difference, but not much. Then turn the key on, and find the next wire, that'll be the one that's always hot when running. Then the start wire is last. That should just about cover most of the wires on the switch, so you can track down the problem. 

   But from what I've read so far, it seems like a ground wire problem. But if you can't get continuity at the switch then it's obviously a problem on the positive circuit.

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@kenfain we tried that even tried a hot from battery still no power to the switch we can get lights to come on that way but nothing else .. chasing the wires is a task because there's so many and no slack in them what are friends for .. well they slip out with beer an tools and....... nothing lol we can't find the problem .. patients is at it's end haha I better drop it off at cub cadet before I push it over the hill .. everyone thinks its a secret relay hiding somewhere but no luck there either .. we're all baffled at this point  

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I spit some Beach nut in it's eye and shot it with my ole 45 lol haven't done it yet but Im taken it out to cub cadet when I have time but I will let everyone know what it was that shut'er done

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7 hours ago, uponahill said:

haven't done it yet but Im taken it out to cub cadet when I have time but I will let everyone know what it was that shut'er done

Ooh, I've never heard of that Restaurant before, Cub Cadet? Candlelight dinner?😍😜

😋B):lol::) 

 

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just a thought, check the main inline fuse from battery. turn key to on position and give the wires a good rattle. I had a similar intermittent problem and could hear sparking across the fuse... changed the fuse and a clean up then no more problems.

my symptoms were clocks coming on and numbers flickering then nothing... no click no lights etc. and battery running flat because not charging. 

Keyif 

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@keyif .. good idea and we already tried that, nothing .. its still sitting waiting for me to take it in to get worked on (guy side swiped me totaled my truck and trailer, trucks back I'm still cutting and welding on trailer to replace fender and axle) but between normal work an my other 2 experimental projects (deff not the kindof talk of this thread or board) and cutting wood to keep from freezing this winter I'm to busy to work on it now .. my friends still come over with a light bulb above their head smiling -> HEY I GOT AN IDEA!!! lol

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It probably is one of the rely's .  It was my problem.  I have been running mine wired on the one good rely.  I just have to make sure the headlights are off when I cut it off or the way I have it wired cutting off the switch doesn't cut off the headlights also. They stay on and I have to cut them off with the light switch.  For safety I put in a toggle switch that kills everything.  Before that I had someone turn on the headlights while I had it parked just about killing my battery. I was lucky it turned over just enough to get me started again. I haven't replaced the rely's yet because I don't know what caused them to go bad suddenly. I think I may have a short somewhere in the wiring. Looks Like I had a rat or squirrel or rat chew some of the wiring. Works and runs well on one rely, but know I'm pushing my luck. My charging system seems to be erratic since though. Sometimes my hour meter works and sometimes not. When it is working my battery is charging when it doesn't battery isn't charging. I hook a battery tender on it when parked and I haven't had problems with the battery cranking as long as the headlights aren't used for to long. At my age I don't do much night driving. 

 

Best of luck!!  Will be watching for the results in your search of a fix!!

 

John Taylor

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