Quantcast
Jump to content

Shock Info!


rocmoc
 Share

Recommended Posts

Flatbed,

I started another topic because I did not want to hijack the Hi topic.

Pulled the shock today, all approx. measurements.

Extended, 23"

Travel, 5"

Shaft size, 7/8"

Spring size, 3 1/2"

I could not find a marking anywhere on the shock or spring.

I think the most important measurement is the extend length. If longer, the CV joint will pull apart. I feel limit straps are a MUST. The rear suspension arm will drop/travel further once the shock is removed. I feel this abuses the shock if the damping is not perfect. I am sure this is what caused the shock to fail. I WILL be installing limit straps. I have not done any corner weights but I would guess at least 700 lbs on the rear corners.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 114
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Kinarfi,

What did you do for a replacement shock? Thanks for the Detailed specs for the shock. I have looked at all the aftermarket brands and no one makes anything with our shaft size and load with less than 8" of travel. Limit straps & bumper stops will safeguard for too much travel. I will probably go with 23" extended, 8" travel and the 2.5 body/damping. I just have to sale an arm & a leg to purchase them.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Forgot to mention, if you remove the shock two shock spacers the size of wedding rings will fall out. They are located between the shock and the bracket with the bolt running thu the ring/spacer. One on each side (2) of the shock mount, top & bottom (2) for a total of 4 per shock. You will need these to reinstall the/a shock. Don't loose them. They are hard to find at shock shops & 4 wheel drive shop. A regular parts house will not have them, been down that road before.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

rocmoc Talked to my shock contact guy. he is going to have his son check into what they have. I guess i could measure mine to find out the lengths. when you say 23", that is center to center on the shock holes fully extended. I do not believe there is 700 lbs on each rear courner of the car. I would say 500 at the most with 2 people in the car. Next time i take mine to work i will pull it on the scales, might do it before i go to the desert. 500 each tire on the back and maybe 450 on the front apiece. thats 1900 lbs. what do you htink.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I ordered a stock one from my dealer and even though it was less than 90 days, he said shocks aren't warrantied and it was $140, So I paid for it and have not had any further trouble. The funny thing was, one of his new troopers was leaking from the right rear which is what I had to replace, I bet he got his under warranty :P

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kinarfi,

What did you do for a replacement shock? Thanks for the Detailed specs for the shock. I have looked at all the aftermarket brands and no one makes anything with our shaft size and load with less than 8" of travel. Limit straps & bumper stops will safeguard for too much travel. I will probably go with 23" extended, 8" travel and the 2.5 body/damping. I just have to sale an arm & a leg to purchase them.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

I'll trade you two disabled legs, one with a fused ankle (currently on a cast) and new shocks from Joyner https://teamjoynerusa.3dcartstores.com/Troo...t_p_9-190.html# for two good legs, I'll even take the left arm if it come with a good shoulder :P,

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Talked to JoynerUSA today. Replacement shock of the same, best price $165/shock. The upgrade shock is a King knockoff but IS NOT King, a clone! I asked them about limit straps and they referred me to Unleashed Motorsports.

Talked to Unleashed and they said some guys were using old seatbelts. What a great IDEA! I replaced both of the seatbelts in the Trooper with camlocks so I had two sets of belts just laying around. I used the lap-belt without the latch. I spread the slot so the lower shock bolt would fit thu. I mounted the slotted metal end on the lower bolt on tire side of the shock. Ran the belt around the upper support mount for the top of the shock and back down. Weaved the belt thu the lock. Now all I had to do is pull on the tightening loop I would normally pull to tighten the belt on my lap. One trick! The spring was adjusted down too much on my shocks, too much spring tension . All compression shock travel, no extension. I backed 1/3" of tension off the springs which equated to 1/2" of sag. This soften the springs, provided more shock travel and enabled me to be able to remove slack in the NEW limit straps. I was surprised how well T2 drove. Went over some up bumps and no banging of the shocks on extension travel.

This will be a great temp fix while I sort thu the shock options.

I did ask Joyner if they could rebuild T2 shocks. They said they did not have the parts YET, but it was something they were looking into. My only concern is quality of the existing shock. What is the difference between the Joyner replacement which includes the spring for $165 and an aftermarket shock less the spring at $300. Has to be quality or the aftermarket guys have a great markup or the price differential of China production cost vs. USA production cost

Anyway I am back on the road at about 90%. I WILL be taking a bunch of pics soon!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's something to ponder, We have CV joints and they can only take so much deflection from straight, what if we put on a shock with slightly less extension length but slightly more travel? I think this would cost us some ground clearance, but give us more travel, if we have the ground clearance for wheel travel and we wouldn't be risking CV damage.

Just an idea to consider.

Jeff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

flatbed,

IMHO, the 2.0 is too light for the weight of the Trooper. I think a min of 2.5 is needed. What do you think? I come to this conclusion from reading Fox's description of their shocks on their site. They write the 2.0 is for a light weight buggy. I don't consider the Trooper light weight. Thanks you for your work!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here's something to ponder, We have CV joints and they can only take so much deflection from straight, what if we put on a shock with slightly less extension length but slightly more travel? I think this would cost us some ground clearance, but give us more travel, if we have the ground clearance for wheel travel and we wouldn't be risking CV damage.

Just an idea to consider.

Jeff

More to ponder! The rear diff can easily be lower a couple of inches. If you do the shock needs to be a couple of inches longer to accommodate the new longer shock travel. Or use the same length shock and you will have more travel in extension. Something to think about when and if you have to replace your shocks and you are thinking about lowering the rear diff.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Similar Topics

    • By 2scoops
      So, I have found a very possible and very interesting engine swap after looking for quite awhileBTW I am still looking and researching. I present to you the 1.4L cylinder out of a Chevy Cruze.
      Let me first caveat this by saying I have NO problem with my Chery engine. But it seems to have only so much potential and there is not enough technical support and R&D out there. Considering there are thousands and thousands of Chery 1100s out in the world (mostly in other countries) we should have WAY more options than we do.
      The problem I DO have with the Chery 1100 is the transmission it is bolted too. Even if you BORE, Supercharge, Nitrous this engine the tranny just too weak. I would be more inclined to do motor work if there was a stronger gearbox we could strap to it. My experience has shown me the output shaft is weakthats a stock motor. If you power it up what is next to goprobably clutches.
      NOW--Why the 1.4L turbo out of a Chevy Cruze?
      ITS AN ECOTEC!
      They are plentiful (fleet car motor) and can be had for relatively cheap ($500-$2000 depending on condition and if it comes with or without the turbo).
      They are compact and lightweight--all aluminum block and cylinder head.
      They are decently powered (138hp) and even better torque (148 ft/lbs)!!! Most smaller engines, to include ATV/UTV gas powered engines, the hp numbers are always higher than torque numbers. I care about TORQUE! In this case torque is the king over hp and it peaks at 2500 rpm!!! This motor was specifically designed to produce low to mid-range torque.
      Also, keep in mind factory engines are designed to be economical. This engine could be easily tuned or a bigger turbo installed to go well over 200 hp.
      Now, the most IMPORTANT partputting the power to the ground:
      The stock Cruze comes with either a six speed manual or an automatic/hydramatic six speedwith manual shift capability!!! Now, I know what you are thinking. We need a low first gear. Now, I cant find anything online about the Troopers first gear ratio. I called Joyner and I am waiting for a call back. If anyone knows please post. My best guess is its around 5:1???
      More intriguingfirst gear in the manual of the Chevy Cruze is 4.27 which is quite low in comparison to most cars being in the 3:1 range. EVEN BETTER the automatic comes with a first gear ratio of 4.58 to one. That is the lowest factory first gear ratio I have found in any FWD 4 cylinder car so far. If you know of one lower please share. Now that may not be low enough for us, but when you keep in mind WE ARE DOUBLING OUR TORQUE it should offset the need for a granny gear. Last, it comes with the manual shift option. This means you can just push the lever forward to shift and back to downshiftNO CLUTCH!
      Now this is just a birds eye view of this potentially sweet drivetrain swap. Outside of the normal custom intake/exhaust, mounts, rewiring of any engine swap here are some of the bigger things that need to be figured out/answered:
      How do we lock up the differential in the gearbox differential like the trooper is? The trooper has basically a spool (fully locked). In RWD buggies Joyner turns the motor and tranny 90 degrees and opens the differential (I hear some models are full locked).
      How would auto/hydramatic transmission handle the stress of offroad?
      Will technology get in the way of making things simple? Nowadays if you disconnect a seat belt sensor the car wont start (exaggerating herea little). How hard will it be to simplify the ignition system and get the electronics for the transmission of in harmony?
      Interested to hear your guys thoughts and concerns
    • By Kensei
      My brother-in-law turned it on its side  it ran fine before now after he did that is doesn’t want to rev up now
    • By Rwpjtk
      My 2013 500 will only start if I floor the gas pedal and then once it starts I have to pump the gas until it warms up a little it sounds horrible until it warms up.(around 20 seconds)and then it will stay running. The exhaust smells like raw gas for a little while. The throttle body has been changed. Someone suggested the mass air flow sensor could be the problem ( is that the MAP). It has been to 2 different shops with it not being fixed. I haven't been able to ride it since last fall.

      Does anyone have any suggestions?
    • eManualOnline
    • By Hisun .500
      So my hisun 500 is tore up and all the wiring is wasted i was wondering can i pull out all the wiring and just put in the. Basics .please help
  • Gallery Images



×
×
  • Create New...