Quantcast
Jump to content

Shock Info!


rocmoc

Recommended Posts

I agree also, I had my CV drop out twice, the 2nd was from running with a blown shock, it was topping out and bottoming out real bad and sounded bad. If you're trying to go flying :lol: , you may need to stiffen your spring. I don't know how you compress your spring to ease the adjusting, but I bet you own a handy man jack, that's what I used to take my shock apart with.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 114
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I also have the shocks so that they are not fully extended when sitting, if you have one wheel high on arock in the rear it letts the other tire have some weight on it. The limiting straps that rocmoc has keeps him from having the spring trying to drive the shock apart. I have a felling that where he rides he needs the ground clearance. I also have the same problem of getting myself into spots i should not be in.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My idea of a limit strap it to protect the CV and the shock when it unloads, with that in mind, collapse the shock some and take all the play out, then when you release the shock, see if it keeps the shock from bottoming and by how much. Realize that the momentum of the wheel and swing arm will stretch the strap more than just releasing what ever force you used to collapse the shock. MY DISCLAIMER, IN MY HUMBLE OPINION.

Yes, bottom out = fully extending, trying to tear itself apart.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Pics!

Rocmoc

I can see that you connected a seat belt to the bottom of the shock through the mounting hole, but I cant tell what you did on the top end, I would think it is to the frame somewhere. I like this idea, I guess I could measure the distance from the bottom mounting bolt to the frame where I plan to mount it, and maybe provide 1/2" slack at the most. My crazy thoughts, since my mind pushes a pen and not a wrench. I am learning but need direction....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I replaced our factory latch belts with a camlock setup. Take the lap belt from each side to use as the limit straps. The end that threads thu the bracket with the hole and slot is the end used for the top. Un-thread the belt remembering how to thread it back into the slider on the belt. There is a square 1" brace between the shock mount and the outside tube. Just wrap the belt around this square tube and retread the belt into the slider. The end that is fixed, can not be removed, is the end that went into the latch will be used on the bottom. This has a 1 1/2" rectangle slot. Spread this slot large enough with hammers and punches to accept the bottom bolt of the shock. Don't use heat or you will damage the belt. When you use these belts as seat belts, there was a loop in the center you could pull to shorten or length the belt. Make sure this loop is in the fully lengthen position, in other words make the belt as long as you can. Attach the metal end with the rectangle slot to the outside of the lower shock bolt, bolt is 3/4" and nut is 13/16". I had to use to large break-over handles as there was lock-tight on the treads. Attach the bottom. Run the belt up over the square tube and re-thread the belt into the slider. All this was done with a jack stand under the frame and a jack under the swing-arm to get slack so you can remove the lower shock bolt. Take everything off the stand and jack with the Trooper resting on the ground. Pull the loop as tight as you can so you remove any slack in the belt. Easier than it sounds if you have the tools. If not, find a friend who does. You have to do almost the same thing even if you buy limit straps. Good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

This is a shocking story? :lol: Remember that shock of mine that puked all of it's all over my swing arm. I got even with it. 2055262540104282158gncYTW_th.jpg Take a look at all of the photos.

:angry: I started sawing on it just below the seal, there was a nice notch there to keep my blade from going all over. If you wanted to use the help of a machine shop, or had a lathe, these shock could be made rebuildable, if you thought they were worth it. I did think it was pretty interesting though to see the guts of one of these things. If you were to shave off just enough of the top (or bottom since that's how it's mounted) to get the seal out, you could replace the seal, have the body threaded, and make a threaded cap to hold the seal in and just keep rebuilding it for the price of a seal & nitrogen. If you knew what you were doing, you could even make some adjustments to their dampening.

I do think that the nitrogen in them is to keep them from cavitating during compression as the plunger moves away from the seal and has little to do with the lifting of the vehicle like the springs do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

shock guy called today. 23.35 " long 2.0 shocks with 8" of stroke with springs, These are fox shocks @ 285.00 apiece. I was very busy when he called, but i think these have 2 springs per shock

Hey... I was just trying to figure out how I could get some fox shocks for the t2... did you get the fox shocks? Did he give you a part number? lol I just really want to put some on the blue t2.:)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey... I was just trying to figure out how I could get some fox shocks for the t2... did you get the fox shocks? Did he give you a part number? lol I just really want to put some on the blue t2. :)

Still running stockers, had to replace one front & one rear. Today I'll get new tires and hopeful get them mounted, Photos will be posted! ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Still running stockers, had to replace one front & one rear. Today I'll get new tires and hopeful get them mounted, Photos will be posted! ;)

Sweet you know I love to see pictures!! oh... so some guy wanted Jerry pimped out t2 so bad that he bought and now we are pimpin out the blue one for him...and it has the big beautiful 30" XXL Itp tires on it so far. We are going to get a black matte top, and they are installing a computer chip in it!! bringing the hp from 86 to 108!!!!!! How bad do you think that is going to be!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sweet you know I love to see pictures!! oh... so some guy wanted Jerry pimped out t2 so bad that he bought and now we are pimpin out the blue one for him...and it has the big beautiful 30" XXL Itp tires on it so far. We are going to get a black matte top, and they are installing a computer chip in it!! bringing the hp from 86 to 108!!!!!! How bad do you think that is going to be!!!!

How much is the new chip?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ordered 2 fox shocks for the rear last night. they are 23.35 inches long with a 8.50 inch stroke. I should be able to pick them up today. I am getting them for less than 200 apiece. Going to superstition this week-end so i should be able to give you a report on how different it feels.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ordered 2 fox shocks for the rear last night. they are 23.35 inches long with a 8.50 inch stroke. I should be able to pick them up today. I am getting them for less than 200 apiece. Going to superstition this week-end so i should be able to give you a report on how different it feels.

Looking forward to your report, be sure to take photos.

What is the stock/model number for them.

The weathers has been bad so I haven't been out to test my tires, so no report yet. Working on mods to my hood like latch73 (Lance) did. :rolleyes:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The shocks i have are 2.0 with no springs. Tried putting the stock springs on tonight, they are to small in diamenter, you could run them but they would ruin the threads on the shock. The shocks have all the hardware for dual rate springs. I also noted at the trooper store today that they have change the location of the rear shock mounts a little bit on the new troopers. They also have a recess in the dash to put things. Any way i am going to wait untill i get back from this trip to mount the shocks. I did notice that when i had the spring off the old shock that there is hardley any rebound in the shock and the compression is pretty stiff. From what i have done with shocks i see where shocks on the trooper will make a huge difference. Rocmoc, i feel that the 2.0 will be more than what we need, i do not see where we need the reiviours either. You would have to beat this shock to death. Also these shocks are lighter than stock and not running resiviours helps also. I really want to put the trooper on a diet. I guess now i will have to get weights so i can get the new springs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The reason I was looking at a reservoir is because when I blew my shock and let the N2 out of the other shock, the oil in both shocks was so hot I was nearly burnt. I was going over a trail that required a lot of shock action but unfortunately that is most of the trails around me.

I found the same, no rebound. Yes it will make a world of difference, one reason I am going to do the same as you and lower the diff. I have never had sag and you need some sag for great shock action.

Sorry to hear about the springs. Keep us abreast of what you do.

My Trooper will diet when going to sand/dunes. I plan to remove the back lid/rollbar over the engine and replace with a single sheet of 1/4" aluminum diamond plate. To me that is one of the easiest weight savers for the dunes. I also am going to do the same to some of the protection plate under the Trooper. I will leave steel in the middle where the high center takes place and under the engine/diff. The rest can be changed to aluminum. Let me know if you have any other ideas.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Rocmoc, the 2.0 have a smaller shaft than stock, plus the valve body and tube are bigger. The shocks probably hold twice the amount of oil than stock. With the shaft size being smaller more oil has to move through the ports on rebound. I am shure you know about this , just saying for others so they know. I was amaazed at how much the stock spring is compressed on the stock shock, over 2 inches, no wonder the springs are ripping the shock apart. After looking at the stock shock i am very excited to see how we do with after market shocks. Like i said when i get back i will weigh the trooper and go from there on the springs, i will go with the duall rate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By SwampTrapper
      This is my first buggy. I rode a Arctic Cat 500 manual for 19 years. My question is: with the engine running in Park and you rev the engine is the drive belt engaged and turning 🤷
    • By mcraigchr
      I realize that many of you do not have diesel machines.  For those that do, this is for you:
      Just wanted to post my experience this past week.  Here in Texas, we had pretty good dip in temps.  For 4 days it did not get above 25.  At night, it was single digits or close to it.  I always put Sta-Bil fuel stabilizer in the storage tank (30 gallon).  And up until this tank I was using Power Service (white bottle) for anti-gel.  Never had an issue.
      This tank, however, I switched to Stabil All season (anti gel).  It is supposed to good down to -40.  Zap.  That is a big fat lie.  I put in twice the amount called for in the instructions.  Result was less than optimal.  I drove the SxS 100 feet (to go get the mail) and it died.  I looked at the fuel bowl and it was a cloudy, wax substance.  So, the Stabil did not work.  That said, I'm not sure that I ever tested the Power Service in the same manner.  So I am not saying that one is better than the other.
      What are your experiences?  Are these products inferior?  What do you folks in the northern states / Canada use?  Am I missing something?
      CC
    • By bfisherman11
      In 2016 I bought a midsized Ranger ETX. I don't recall exactly my out the door price but it was probably less than 8k. I've used it as a work machine around our home and 38acres. It's always run great and requires little maintenance. Still running strong. 
      So, for no reason I checked out a local dealer. I like the midsized UTVs so that's where I started. I was shocked the cheapest 570 I saw was a shade under 18k. I know an ETX Ranger was a budget SxS but wow, that's a 10k jump. When I was shopping back in '16 I think a 570 was about 1k more than my ETX.
      Well I guess I will be running this ETX till it breaks.
      Anyhow, I'm a big fan of the Rangers. When the time comes I'll be back but I had no idea. I haven't posted in a while. The ETX must not have sold a lot because you don't see many things posted. Hope other ETX owners had the same reliability I have had. I'm guessing if a cheap Ranger series like mine has been reliable then the guys with bigger ones are enjoying those as well.
      So, great machines, probably priced per the market but I had no idea. Ha
       
    • By Mike Turner
      After 5 years my 2016,  650LandMaster is needing normal wear and tear service. But I can’t find a dealer service center to perform any of the work because I didn’t purchase the UTV from them. “I’m not going to help you” I’m told, “find someone else”. And apparently there’s not a damn thing I can do about it. 
    • By Dreadnought
      I've searched the forum but don't think I found a solution.
      I just bought a used 2022 UT 400 with only 31 miles on it. Often I have to rev the motor just a little to get it to shift into forward or reverse. The original owner told me about this and said it needed the cable adjustment that you so often read about. It also jumped out of gear a few times and did grind a little but not very often and only under heavy load like going up a steep dirt road. After reading lots of posts I figured it must be the short shifter throw so I did the shifter extension modification. It didn't help at all. I thought, should I increase the idle speed? The tach reads about 1600 rpm at idle but it doesn't sound that fast to me. It doesn't seem like cable adjustment because it clicks right in gear with just a few more revs. Any ideas?
      Thanks for any wisdom.
       




×
×
  • Create New...