Hisun Sector E1

[EVSupport]

On 5/10/2021 at 4:16 PM, spp1 said:

Hi

The link below should take you to the Delta Q  website,  halfway down the page are the links to download the 'Simple IC Data Analysis Tool (IDAT)'.
 From what I can see it's just a monitoring tool and for interest really, I guess it might show if your not charging as well as you think

Software & Accessories - Delta-Q Technologies

 

 

As some back ground I run a small business in the UK (since 2012) building EVs, supplying conversion parts, and developing new parts and Li ion conversions. I am not a specifically Hisun oriented business, but have created a li ion Conversion for the e1 , built on the setup I use on Polaris Ranger EVs.

 

Hisun use the DeltaQ IC1200 charger. Each charger has an Algorithm loaded into it that tells the charger to what voltage to charge to at what current, and for how long and at what voltage to go to any maintenance/ trickle charge. It can also be reprogrammed (assuming DElta Q have one suitable) to work with Li ion cells.

The algorithm can be changed using a download from a suitably formatted and set up USB storage stick.

If you put a completely blank USB stick into the USB socket on the charger, then it will download a dump of charging statistics.

Using the software from DeltaQ you can use that to look at the data, it tells you how many charges, when the last one was, if they are full or incomplete charge cycles, any faults, what Algorithm you are usng etrc.

It only looks at the Charger. There is no connection to any form of BMS (No Lead systems do that) to give data on individual batteries.

Inside each battery there are separate 2v cells . 3 to give 6v 6 to give 12v. and these cells do get unbalanced. That is why a Lead battery always gets over charged in a full charge cycle. It brings up any low voltage cells and high voltage cells just turn the unwanted power into heat. On wet lead thats when you get gassing.

So always ensure you fully charge. Its worth occasionally doing a voltage check on each separate battery in the string , starting at the negative end. Note the at rest voltages when you have used the vehicle, then when its been fully charged and left to stand unplugged for say 20 mins. Do the checks again. Not them down. Now look at the data and are you seeing any that are really different voltages from the rest? If so it could mean you have a problem with a cell in that battery. As an example  if at rest after use, most are reading at just under 12v, but one is reading a bit under 10v that battery almost certainly has a faulty cell.

If these had wet cells then this is the point you re check the electrolyte level. But on sealed gel there is nothing that you can do. It possible that that battery has just got so unbalanced that the onboard over charge cant deal with it.  Unlikely but possible, so fully charge the vehicle as normal. Then carefully disconnect that battery (Ensure any cable ends dont touch anything. Wrap the end in insulation tape and cable tie the cable (use releasable ties) or tie them up with string to something solid on the vehicle. No you can remove the battery or leave it in place and put an external charger of the correct type and voltage , leave it for a day.  Then remove the external charger, re connect the battery to the rest of the pack, and see if its made a difference. If not then dont delay replacing it. A duff cell not only causes a voltage drop but to compensate the rest of the pack will have to discharge at a higher rate, so it puts all of the batteries under strain.

A few terms

Series connection.

in battery terms, join the negative on one battery to another batteries positive and the overall voltage will be the sum of the two, ie two 6v  will give 12v two 12v will give 24v. If you have 2   150Ah (Amps Hours) 12v batteries in series you will end up with a 150Ah 24v battery pack (This is called 2 S , two serial)

Parallel connection.

If you have two 150Ah 12v batteries and you join both negatives together and both positives together you will end up with a 300Ah 12v battery pack (this is called 2p)

If you have two sets of the 300Ah as above and join them in series you have one pack of 2P 2S.

Cell . 

The basic building block of batteries. In lead they are about 2v, in Nicad about 1.2v, in Alkaline/ zinc carbon about 1.5v and Li ion around 3.7v (lifepo4   3.3v) So your 12v lead battery will be made up of 6 separate 2v cells. Any one of which can fail.

DC to DC converter.

Takes High voltage DC and converts it to low voltage and not simply by using a big resistor. The output is a stable voltage suitable for the vehicles normal usage. It should never be used to charge another 12v battery by jumping of the onboard one

Motor controller / Inverter. 

In the HiSun, this is the SEVCON unit beneath the seat. This takes DC power and converts it to three phase AC to feed to the AC motor. In broad terms the frequency of the AC is what dictates the motor RPM, the controller interprets the load , the motor speed (it has a thing called an encoder on the motor that gives data you can work out RPM from), throttle input and hey presto you get the power and speed your right foot is wanting. It has inbuilt data specifically for the motor telling it how to deliver power through the rev range, how the phases interact to give the acceleration you are asking for etc etc.

Do ask a question on EV related things and I will answer if I can.

[Waterguy]

After changing the melted 30amp fuse from charger, My sector e1 will not come out of Low mode. 
Could it be the L-H-M rocker switch? I cannot get any help from Jacksonville where I purchased. They will only work on it if it is still under warranty they told me. 14 months old. Supposed to have 2 year warranty but they tell me that is just on the powertrain….anyone know what I might check?

[Cougsfan]

That sucks to know a dealer is that unsupportive. 

They are in an ICE frame of mind.  I would consider your problem  to be part of the power train on an EV.   I'd try to get a hold of Hisun directly and seek their help.

It could be the rocker switch.   It should be easy to check out with a ohmmeter.   It wouldn't seem that a charger fuse would affect the rocker switch, but you never know.

[EVSupport]

What caused the charger fuse to blow?  Where was your fuse located?  The power to the sevcon is only applied when the ign is turned on, that brings the Sevcon live, (Applies pack voltage to pin 1) but does not fully go live until the main contactor is puled in (the clonk you hear)If you have it in fwd or reverse it will call a fault and beep at you . Hence why turn on is done in neutral, Saves you shooting off in a direction at turn on. So see if you get a fault when you turn it on in FWD and reverse. Are any fault codes shown on the dash,  or the small blinking led on the Sevcon cover near the multiway connector towards the front of the sevcon under the drivers seat?  The FWD reverse is simply two switches with a centre off, each completing a circuit to a different input line on the Sevcon. Has any cabling been damaged?.

 

[Redfox]

On 5/1/2021 at 2:09 PM, Cougsfan said:

My dealer gave me a complete and thorough service manual loaded on a thumb drive with the purchase of my E1.   A dealer shouldn't have a problem with sharing one with you.   As I would expect, there isn't a section on suspension squeaks.   The unit is quite quiet.   If the rig made any engine noise, you probably wouldn't even notice those squeaks.

If you have greased all the fittings I would spray down where the shock springs rub against the shock body with silicone spray.    My guess is that is where the noise might be coming from..   

On my E1 it was squeezing at the bottom bolt through the shock. Dealer took the bolt out and greased it and no more squeezing. The bolt was a little rusty. Traveling through water may have caused it. I’m sure it won’t last long but at least I know what to do now to fix my problem 

[Guest]

Yup. Every time mine goes up on the lift so I can grease all thousand and one grease nipples, I squirt a little silicon WD40 into the spring bushings and for a few miles it's as quiet as anything. It doesn't last though, particularly given the terrain I drive over. Still eking out about five miles from the old batteries. I really must do something about a li-ion upgrade sometimes soon.

[Cort Tangeman]

Greetings…news to the group. I have property in Wisconsin USA, looking at a sector E1. If you change the lithium, do you have to concern yourself with the controller? And obviously you have to change the battery charger is that not correct?

[Gorj]

1 hour ago, Cort Tangeman said:

Greetings…news to the group. I have property in Wisconsin USA, looking at a sector E1. If you change the lithium, do you have to concern yourself with the controller? And obviously you have to change the battery charger is that not correct?

The Lithium batteries have a bult in BMS and I read that one can re program the charger for Lithium batteries.

[GNFO]

3 hours ago, Cort Tangeman said:

Greetings…news to the group. I have property in Wisconsin USA, looking at a sector E1. If you change the lithium, do you have to concern yourself with the controller? And obviously you have to change the battery charger is that not correct?

Welcome!  If you haven't found it yet, read through this thread: 

Short answer is, you don't have to mess with the controller and you can use the existing charger as long as you change the charging profile to one that is lithium specific.

[Cort Tangeman]

On 7/21/2025 at 8:00 AM, Cort Tangeman said:

Greetings…news to the group. I have property in Wisconsin USA, looking at a sector E1. If you change the lithium, do you have to concern yourself with the controller? And obviously you have to change the battery charger is that not correct?

My sector E1 was damaged in shipping and will not shift from low to high. It only has 7 miles on it. Where is the manual override to shift from low to higher or high to low? I’m already done the manual protocol for a code 4884 and a negative battery disconnect but nothing seems to help

[Gorj]

 The E1 has no gear change. You just change the range by the switch on the dash. The switch changes the amount of power going to the electric motor.

[Cort Tangeman]

1 hour ago, Gorj said:

 The E1 has no gear change. You just change the range by the switch on the dash. The switch changes the amount of power going to the electric motor.

OK, well that sounds great. However, where is that power shift take place? Are you saying the fault is in the switch or in a solenoid or somewhere else in the motor?

[Gorj]

The toggle switch activated the the motor controller. So the issue is either in the switch or the controller. There can also be issues with the batteries.

[Cort Tangeman]

1 hour ago, Gorj said:

The toggle switch activated the the motor controller. So the issue is either in the switch or the controller. There can also be issues with the batteries.

Referencing the controller you’re talking about the ECU?

[Gorj]

I have never seen it refer to anything other than the motor controller.  Here is a wiring diagram.

 

 

[Cort Tangeman]

17 hours ago, Gorj said:

I have never seen it refer to anything other than the motor controller.  Here is a wiring diagram.

 

 

 

17 hours ago, Gorj said:

I have never seen it refer to anything other than the motor controller.  Here is a wiring diagram.

 

 

 

17 hours ago, Gorj said:

I have never seen it refer to anything other than the motor controller.  Here is a wiring diagram.

 

 

 

17 hours ago, Gorj said:

I have never seen it refer to anything other than the motor controller.  Here is a wiring diagram.

 

 

Deep depower and reset the seatbelt circuit. Done. Thanx

[Cort Tangeman]

22 hours ago, Cort Tangeman said:

 

 

 

Deep depower and reset the seatbelt circuit. Done. Thanx

Anybody know where the backup buzzers located?

[hdtran]

Backup alert is behind the switch panel on the dash (switch panel is the panel with the rocker switches for left turn, right turn, etc.; it's in the center of the dash halfway between driver and passenger). If the tone is too loud for you, just remove the four screws holding the panel, gently pull out the panel. The buzzer is a squarish piece with a hollow. You can stuff some foam into the hollow, and that will greatly mute the sound. Once the sound is to your liking, just put the panel back in place.

I ought to do a short video and post that--really easy to do.

😗

[Cort Tangeman]

5 minutes ago, hdtran said:

Backup alert is behind the switch panel on the dash (switch panel is the panel with the rocker switches for left turn, right turn, etc.; it's in the center of the dash halfway between driver and passenger). If the tone is too loud for you, just remove the four screws holding the panel, gently pull out the panel. The buzzer is a squarish piece with a hollow. You can stuff some foam into the hollow, and that will greatly mute the sound. Once the sound is to your liking, just put the panel back in place.

I ought to do a short video and post that--really easy to do.

😗

 

[Cort Tangeman]

Just now, Cort Tangeman said:

 

Thank you

[Cort Tangeman]

15 hours ago, Cort Tangeman said:

 

Great fix. Unplugged that annoying thing. Thanks again 

[BuggyBoy]

So have Allion GC2 batteries which are great. 
Chosen a charging profile which should suit them but get really odd charging scenarios. 
According to the lights on each battery, one battery will be under 20%, one fully charged, and the others at random levels. Sometimes all fully charged, and then after a few minutes back to random levels again. 
The battery monitor (Allion) gauge also shows random states of charge flicking between say 10% then 80% and all over the place.
Clearly an issue somewhere - cables are slightly oversized and don’t get hot, all connections solid. 12v battery seems fine. 
Anyone else experienced this?

[Gorj]

So you have four Allion GC2 lithium batteries? Each one of those should have its own BMS. So I would guess that the charger is faulty or the battery's BMS is not communicating correctly. Is there a reason you decided on multiple batteries and not one 48 volt battery?

 

[BuggyBoy]

6 minutes ago, Gorj said:

So you have four Allion GC2 lithium batteries? Each one of those should have its own BMS. So I would guess that the charger is faulty or the battery's BMS is not communicating correctly. Is there a reason you decided on multiple batteries and not one 48 volt battery?

 

They fit directly into the current battery box. Would have had to cut out sections and move controllers etc.. to fit one large unit. Also better when one battery fails you are just replacing one battery and the buggy will still work with three - just looses a bit of range - until the battery is replaced, I.e no down time. 
charger - same issue with onboard or external, so unlikely it’s the charger. 
BMS’s most likely as already had to change one. Seems to always happen after a steep hill climb using around 350a-400a draw, sometimes ok but other times one battery will indicate under 10% and the others much higher. Seems like they discharge/charge at different rates, not sure how that is possible as all connected. I thought the BMS’s and canbus connections were supposed to balance it all out. Possible the voltage difference becomes to much and the BMMS’s refuse to charge?

 

[Gorj]

Was just interested because that was same thing I did but for a different reason. I did not want to lift that heavy 51 volt battery into the buggy. I was bad enough getting the eight Discovery batteries out!

[GNFO]

7 hours ago, BuggyBoy said:

They fit directly into the current battery box. Would have had to cut out sections and move controllers etc.. to fit one large unit. Also better when one battery fails you are just replacing one battery and the buggy will still work with three - just looses a bit of range - until the battery is replaced, I.e no down time. 
charger - same issue with onboard or external, so unlikely it’s the charger. 
BMS’s most likely as already had to change one. Seems to always happen after a steep hill climb using around 350a-400a draw, sometimes ok but other times one battery will indicate under 10% and the others much higher. Seems like they discharge/charge at different rates, not sure how that is possible as all connected. I thought the BMS’s and canbus connections were supposed to balance it all out. Possible the voltage difference becomes to much and the BMMS’s refuse to charge?

 

Time to talk to Allion. When you first brought it up, I wasn't sure if the battery BMSs talked to each other since those are a different brand than mine, but if they are connected to each other through CANbus they certainly should. Hopefully it's just the reporting itself that's faulty and not the actual battery performance, but either way it seems like an Allion problem.

[Udo from G-Saarland]

On 7/28/2025 at 2:57 PM, Cort Tangeman said:

 

 

 

Deep depower and reset the seatbelt circuit. Done. Thanx

How did you "reset the seatbelt circuit"?

I ask because after converting my E1 to lithium-1-pack-48V-105Ah (ebay "Ingeosolly") some malfuncions appeared:

Change of direction is no longer displayed correctly (always green N) | Speed level (H/M/L) is no longer displayed correctly (always green H) | Battery/temperatur indicator shows no bars | No display of rpm and km/h. And especially annoying: reversing light does not light up when reversing. No error code is displayed.

Maybe the reset you applied will help. But maybe someone here has another idea (cause/solution)?

Nice greetings from Germany

Udo Lenz

[Cort Tangeman]

1 hour ago, Udo from G-Saarland said:

How did you "reset the seatbelt circuit"?

I ask because after converting my E1 to lithium-1-pack-48V-105Ah (ebay "Ingeosolly") some malfuncions appeared:

Change of direction is no longer displayed correctly (always green N) | Speed level (H/M/L) is no longer displayed correctly (always green H) | Battery/temperatur indicator shows no bars | No display of rpm and km/h. And especially annoying: reversing light does not light up when reversing. No error code is displayed.

Maybe the reset you applied will help. But maybe someone here has another idea (cause/solution)?

Nice greetings from Germany

Udo Lenz

 

[Cort Tangeman]

Just now, Cort Tangeman said:

 

I did a deep reset on the batteries. Turned everything off,  unplugged the seatbelt replugged the seatbelt, and my problem was solved.

[Gorj]

I have never had any seat belt warnings. I removed the seat belts the first day I had it. I also sawed off the intrusive bar on the drivers left side and put covers on the stubs. I also removed the backup buzzer. For the last five years i have never seen any fault codes, and never received any when converting to lithium batteries. The only two issues I have experienced with the E1 is the faulty parking brake setup. I have installed a brake pedal lock designed for a Polaris as a parking brake, and in the last year the four wheel drive no longer works.