Quantcast
Jump to content

Hisun 700 No Start Help


Farm man

Recommended Posts

I have a hisun 700 I went out to start it one morning and it made a clunk then nothing I am  mechanical inclined so I start trying to figure things out.  I narrowed it down to starter.  I changed it out with a brand new starter it made a grinding sound then nothing please advise me as I’m a old points and spark plug kind of guy not much experience with utv point me in the right direction don’t want to start tearing things down that don’t help??

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are you sure there's enough voltage at the starter? A clunk sounds like the starter bendix has engaged, but nothing more. That could be a bad starter, or a cable not delivering enough power. I'd also make sure the negative cable has good contact. 

Is there any corrosion in or on the cables? I'd test for voltage drop in the cables. Since you're replacing the starter, it should be easy to get to the cable for testing. 

Probably nothing, but it's a good idea to check it occasionally. Since it's possible for a cable to look perfectly fine. While having corrosion inside. It's a simple test, usually done with a multi meter. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have any reason to suspect that flywheel is the problem. Then it will need a proper inspection. That cover needs to be removed. The only thing that you can really check through the starter hole, is for missing flywheel teeth. 

And even that is easier with the shroud removed. However, the missing teeth, if that's the problem here, would most likely be right there where the flywheel is presently indexed. And should be easily seen through the starter hole. That's why I asked if you have any basis for the flywheel being the problem. 

Removing the spark plugs will allow you to rotate the engine. Allowing for flywheel inspection. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi my hisun 700 will not turn over seems dead. If you look buy your battery there should be a30amp fuse  try moving it around check wires going to it.  Fixes mine every time. When this fuse shorts out loses connection  your  dash will not start working.  Mine is a 2009 700 . Not sure what year you have or if has been changed on newer models.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

25 minutes ago, Thomas osterhout said:

Timing chain broken or gear shot mine was torsoioner broke valves against piston

Yeah, it could easily be an obstruction from a broken part,  jamming the whole works. I've got my suspicions about what's coming. But we won't know till we hear back from the op.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Alien10
      I have a Coleman Outfitter 550 purchased in January 2022 that runs and operates pretty well.  65 hours on it so far.   It is a work vehicle for my 10 hilly acres with two 1 acre woods and 5 acres of "lawn".  The rest is under a lake. 
      My parking brake does not seem to have any grip.  It worked when new but after a month or so, it is just almost useless.     I press the parking brake pedal hard until it stops. Still, it won't hold even on slight inclines.   I don't see the caliper move as I press the brake pedal down.  There seems to be plenty of pad left on it and the rotor is shiny as if it is rubbing a little when applied, but not enough to stop it from rolling. 
      Any thoughts on possible causes? 
       
    • By sister sweety
      Thank you for adding me, I am the owner of a 2021 axis 700 UTV and also a 2023 Can-Am defender UTV

    • By REDfletching
      Spent today at a Honda dealership looking at their 520 side by side, then on the way home past our Lowes noticed they had several new UTVs on site, so we U-turned and ducked in there. We were impressed that all that came for $9,999 metal whole length skid plate, nice sized bed, roof, windshield, side mirrors, winch, upgrade looking tires… all of which would have added thousands of dollars to an already expensive Honda 520. Now Honda does have a great reputation from my trusted UTV experienced buddy, so it has that going for it.
    • By Buddee
      Put a new carb on the 500 to replace the leaking OE one.  Machine idles fine and mid and top end runs great.  It tends to have a hesitation right from the start - bottom end.   Thinking it may be the air/fuel screw??  I didn't do anything with the carb out of the box and is it direct replacement for my machine.  Of interest is the manual choke doesn't seem to work very good now.... wonder is it getting too much air?
       
      Any help appreciated!
       
       
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
×
×
  • Create New...