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What do you do when

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you're sick of chinese Crap but really can't afford the good OEM part?

Starter on the mule, i finally replaced the old D&B electrical starter (on august 28th) on it that was at least 5 years old with probably a million starts on it and apparently D&B no longer makes it/sells it, so i bought a $53 starter from CHYNA on amazon.. on august 19th, well here it is barely 1.5 months later, it clicks several times before it will spin over, all connections were good and i tested the key switch, and trigger wire voltage as well as the starter relay according to the service manual and they all check out. usually a tap with a hammer or if i turn the key back and forth fast several times it will kick in and start. would it be worth my time to remove the starter and lube it??

I've got the Denso and Kawasaki part numbers but boy... $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

even a Reman denso is $230.

does anyone know of a decent aftermarket starter maker that might have one?

i've 12.5 volts at the big cable, and i get the same at the trigger wire as the manual states, but when its in F or R i get no voltage at the trigger, so i know the Neutral safety is working properly.

and if anyone can find one the DB starter was 190-542 18450

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Would your starter maybe cross reference with a starter from another make? Also, maybe take it to a rebuilding site. I have heard that they do a great job, and it's not all that expensive, at least for the automotive starters. That way you know it's actually been rebuilt and not just cleaned up and put on the shelf as a rebuilt unit. 

Just a few pieces of advice. I'm new to this SXS thing, so if I seem ignorant, I apologize ahead of time. 

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I think i may have a solution,  today i did some testing and just ran power straight to the starter motor by passing the solenoid, just off and on for about 3 seconds each time and did it about 12 times or more, of course the solenoid didn't kick the gear out since i unhooked power from it, but the starter motor spun up strong everytime with no  hesitation, so that leads me to believe the motor is good, but there's something funky with the solenoid... i found a Genuine Kawasaki (Denso) starter solenoid for it on Ebay for 59.99.

 I could just try replacing the solenoid with an OEM part.. alot cheaper than a new starter... BTW i did get in contact with a local auto shop who does work like that and they told me they wanted me to provide the "rebuild kit" brushes and what ever else comes with it, i've seen rebuild kits for the  Kawasaki starters, but not sure if they'd work on one from CHYNA.


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So you are going to replace the solenoid? Sounds good to me, and much less expensive. 

So, the auto repair shop wanted you to supply the parts necessary to rebuild the starter? So they would only be responsible for the labor? Seems like you're doing the legwork for them. I would look for a shop that works on electric motors. I think they would be better at the rebuild, and have a better supply of the brushes and etc. But it sounds like you won't be needing that, after all.

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Yes, they wanted me to supply the brushes etc, whatever comes in the rebuild kit, i guess since it's a ATV they  may not have the correct parts.... there really aren't a lot of shops around me that work on atv's except for actual dealerships, no independent "mom and pop" type places, but i'm pretty good with mechanical stuff.

but yes, i think i will replace just the solenoid with the OEM part. Thanks for the suggestion on talking to a shop about rebuilding the starter, that helped me make my mind up. sometimes i just need a good kick in the hind end to get in gear, lol.

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  • 1 month later...

I have no idea what to do...

started up great 3 times, then click click click click.

I get 12.75 volts at the trigger wire, and 12.75 volts at the + post on the solenoid  (drops to just above 12v when starting) with the key in the start position. If it were the relay i doubt i would get full battery voltage on the trigger wire.

i do not think its the neutral switch since when i put in F or R with the key in the start position the solenoid clicks back since power is cut to it, then clicks again when i put it back to neutral.

 I even re-tested the starter circuit relay, it checks out good.


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here's what the troubleshooting section says.


Fuse: only 1, it's good.

Wiring open or shorted: i have visually checked wiring, and checked for continuity from starting circuit wires to ground. none.

relays not contacting or operating: circuit relay ohms out good

neutral switch: functions properly

to me it seems like if if the full battery voltage is making it to the 1 trigger wire, the wiring should be good.


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the wires that come into the starter circuit relay, i've check for continuity, nothing to ground, (no shorts)

23 minutes ago, T-boss 410 said:

I don't know what a ignition switch costs, but if it's not expensive I would try that if everything else is working properly.

i failed to mention, i was only able to clean where the switch wires plug into the harness, not the switch itself, appears to be all one piece.

Kawasaki wants $75 for a key switch.  Cheapos on Scamazon are $30.

i reall don't want to keep throwing money at this. I really don't see how it could be anything else as all it is is 2 wires on the solenoid, big battery cable and the trigger wire, the trigger wire has the correct voltage as spec'd by the manual (battery voltage).

EDIT: even when the solenoid clicks, i still get the correct voltage on the trigger wire.

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$75.00 for an ignition switch sure seems a bit steep. Sounds like you are paying for a name in this instance. I can understand relying on name brands for reliability, but that's awful steep. 

Believe me, I get that you don't want to keep throwing money at it. Sometimes our toys get a bit expensive to keep going. 

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9 minutes ago, T-boss 410 said:

Was it a new starter? I guess it wouldn't matter. Nowadays with such poor quality control nothing is guaranteed. 

new, but made in Chyna. never heard back from the seller. which is a huge red flag, cause it literally started acting up like 3 days after the 1 month replacement guarantee ran out.

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