2012 hisun 500 power loss
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By redneckred
Got a 2012 Bennche Bighorn 700x (I believe) from a neighbor that had it sitting in his yard undisturbed for over 2 years. We pulled it across the road to my house with the transmission stuck in low. I tinkered and discovered the fan gear assembly had frozen up from not being used, specifically the part that slides/turns in the housing. After freeing that up, the transmission shifts fine. I put a fresh battery on it and discovered 12.2 volts going to the solenoid, and with the key in the on position, 12 .2 volts on the starter side of the solenoid without turning the key to the crank position. I discovered at the starter the same results of a constant 12.2 volts in the on position. Cranking, the voltage on the starter side of the solenoid and at the starter drops to 11.72v. Shouldn't there not be any voltage on the other side of the solenoid or at the starter if the key is not in the crank position? And with the constant voltage at the starter and it not turning, isn't it safe to assume the starter is frozen/burned out?
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By Wranglerron
I have a Bighorn 500 that I use around the yard to move small trailers and trash. Tried to crank yesterday, no electrical power. Changed battery, checked fuses, turned key, nothing. No lights, no horn or anything electrical. Any ideas?
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By Robert Mack
I have a Kubota RTV900 that I am having issues with......it will start up, run about 10-15 seconds then die......turn the key off and wait a few minutes, and the same thing happens. I have gone through all the steps listed to bleed and prime the pump even though I did not run out of fuel....and I cracked the lines on the injector pump and watched fuel pump out as I crank it, so I am not convinced that it is a fuel injector issue......is there a relay that could be causing this? What is the starter timer relay that people have mentioned and what does it do?
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By malenurse13
We just bought a used 2017 American Landmaster TW450. No hour meter that I can find, so not sure exactly how much it has been used.
The first 2 days we had it, the starter was a little sketchy, but it started after 2-3 tries. Sometimes when turning the key, we would hear a loud metal "clink" sound. Like the starter made contact, but didn't have enough power to turn.
THIS MORNING... Turning the key, we hear a single click sound. That's it. Even with a new battery, the starter is still doing the same thing. Both batteries (old and new) were reading 12.8 volts on volt meter. So I'm wondering what else could be going on? Any ideas on what to look for would be greatly appreciated...
Thank you!
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By Greg Kilgore
I installed an electric coolant temp gauge and volt gauge today. The oil pressure gauge I ordered had a bad sending unit. So once the replacement arrives. I'll add that install to the post. The I used a 22mm temp radiator adapter.
1/8 " NTP x 1/8 NTP adapter.
And an electric temp gauge.
Had to take a drill and drill bit to enlarge the 1/8 NTP adapter to allow the temp sending unit to pass thru. Another user on the forum enlarged the 1/8 NTP hole in the 22mm radiator to 1/4 NTP and used a 1/4 NTP x 1/8 NTP reducer. Either way would work. Both has it challenges. And both accomplished the same thing. To get the sending unit just barely in the coolant. If you just put the sending unit in. IMO it just blocks too much of the coolant flow.
I didn't get a pic of how far the sending unit protrudes into the rad adapter. But it wasn't a lot. And also since it an electric gauge the sending unit needed to be grounded. But since there wasn't a place on the temp radiator adapter. I used a clamp to secure a ground/negative wires to the temp sending unit. The gauge wiring was simple. The gauge's wiring harness had a red, green, and black wire. Red goes to a positive. Black to a negative. Green to the sending unit. Since I had some 18 AGW speaker wire. I used that to run to the sending unit. Red to green, black to black.
Then another piece of the speaker wire from the gauge to power source. I tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash. (Just as I did for the overhead fan.)
Then used a 2" hole saw to cut into the plastic above what I'd call the radio door.
The gauge goes to about 174° F then the radiator fan kicks on. Cools down to about 150° F and kicks off. Now the lowest the temp gauge will read is 104° when you first start the machine. That is the nature of the gauge. Even says so on the web page. So I'll just have to live with it.
The voltage gauge
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Was simple to install. Just a positive and negative wire to connect. Tapped into the 12V power outlet on the dash.
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