Travis

here's something to chew on! Lol wouldn't start earlier, clicked about 40 times.. this time, I went from the + on the solenoid and unplugged where the trigger wire goes, and shorted from the big + to trigger tab, and it fired right up. That big + has more amps than that little wire... Sooo is for some reason, i am not getting enough amperage through the trigger to retract the solenoid completely, SOMETIMES? Or is it in the starter causing it need to more amperage to retract the solenoid SOMETIMES.?

me either, all i know kawasaki recommends (stock) a 235CCA battery, and i have a 270 in it.

I'm not pulling that starter off until i get the new cable. I'm almost ready to screw it and live with it.

just now, i took off the flywheel housing, so i can see the ring gear and starter gear, whenever the starter clicks, there is no sign of outward movement of the starter gear.. so it's something internally in the starter i think...but what? also read something interesting, bad cables can (of course deliver lower amperage) and that can burn out solenoids.....

+Positive cable ain't gonna be here for 2 weeks.... Guess i'll head to TSC tomorrow and look, or order a + cable like i listed earlier. and put a ring terminal on that white wire.

Really?! i've never seen any cables at my TSC, in Willis or Conroe... i'll have to look closer

Okay, that cable i have on hand will work perfectly, ends are sealed too. i cut a strip of black heat shrink tube and put on it so i won't cross them up.

hold the phone, I forgot i have a short red wire that i had bought that's a Briggs part... technically it's a + cable, but a cable is a cable, it might reach to from the battery to the where the ground point is.

the negative is just a a regular cable, coated with rubber. the + cable has a white wire made onto it that has a diode and 20 amp main fuse that goes to the keyswitch.

here we go... Made in the US of A.... https://www.amazon.com/Spartan-Power-Negative-Connecting-Batteries/dp/B07HBNKVTR/ref=sr_1_11?dchild=1&keywords=ground%2Bcable&qid=1612400495&sr=8-11&th=1

Holy cow.... $25 for that ground cable! heck it's shorter then the dang + cable! $21 at partzilla.

My + cable also tested with the same resistance, not sure when that one is supposed to get here though, guess ill order a ground cable too.

i haven't got around to installing the spare solenoid yet. weird occurrence today, it wouldn't start, so i shorted the posts and held the key in start, the starter motor would spin, but the gear would not kick out to the flywheel. And before whenever i short the posts and hold the key in start the gear would mesh with the flywheel.... i think next i will remove the blower housing so i can see what the gear is doing while it clicks. what drives me insane is how intermittent the problem is, it went from monday to wednesday starting up PERFECT, no issues at all. and today it acted up again. still waiting on my new + cable. However i want an opinion on this, i cleaned my ground cable ends up and where they bolt too real good today with my dremel tool, i noticed my ground cable has some green corrosion starting at one end, i might ought to strip the coating back some and see how far it goes. i tested resistance on it and got 00.1 ohms on it... Ohms confuse me so if someone could translate what that means please

I would buy an inline spark tester and hook it up, see if you lose spark when you accelerate .

i guess i'll try to install that spare solenoid today, last night i went out to see what it would do, just for the heck of it, and a few times whenever it would click, it almost sounded like i heard arcing, or a bad connection, kind of muffled., so kept looking at all external battery connection, (both + and - ends) never saw any sparking, it almost sounds like it's coming from internal in that solenoid.... weird.

There may be more votes for something else "show up" I contacted the place i ordered it from, since the start isn't even a month and a half old quite yet, to see if they can send me another possibly. I do have a spare solenoid that is known to be good.

i almost had a brain storm moment, while im waiting on the new + cable, i got the load tester, and hooked it to the starter end of the cable, and then the - lead just reached to the ground spot. so that worked out, i put a load on it and it held perfect in the green. My thinking is that might tell me the condition of the battery cable?

Warn winches are the way to go.

boy it really acted up this afternoon about 4 starts on it today, They sent me the wrong meter, It only tests AC amperage and not DC.... so i couldn't see what amperage the starter was pulling. 😐 but i did bang on the solenoid and on the 6th bang it spun over, then later not even banging it would make it work, had to short across the posts. whenever the key switch is in start and the solenoid is pulled on, the 2nd + post on the starter (Not the main Cable connection) that takes power to the starter motor, i was reading about 1.8 volts, almost 2 volts. when it wasn't spinning over, when it was spinning over it showed 11.8-.9

Welcome!

Probably, 1/4" is about 6.35 MM, and 5/16" is relative to 8MM

so far mine ain't running bass ackwards, yet this starter has roughly 20 hours on it, but then again, it hasn't given me a problem since yesterday.

What size fuel line? if it's standard 1/4 or 5/16" ID i use a Wix 33011.

Solenoid Shift A.K.A Clutch.

And pictures are worth more than 1,000 words when it comes to putting it back together, never say "I'll remember where it goes", i learned the hard way on some things.