Travis

What kind of connector does it have on the end of it?

most Golf cart batteries are designed to be capable of discharging up to 80% of their charge, while most deep cycle marine batteries are capable of discharging up to only %50 of their charge. this article may be more helpful, https://www.dixiebattery.com/products/golf-compare

Is the model an RTV 900 or a newer RTV X900? Also, if it has seat belts for safety, try hooking them together as some UTV's limiters only work when the seat belts are not hooked up.

How's it doing?

Sounds like a good plan.

Alright here are the findings. The starter draw was at 66-67 amps. I then hooked it up to my riding mower which also has 9.5hp Kawasaki FC290, and the starter is fairly old on that one, and it drew about 75 amps Now back to the mule, the highest amperage i saw was 74 right when i started it and it drops and levels out and stays at 66 or 67 amps. one thing i noticed, whenever the starter clicked, it would show 1 .08 amps on the meter. and every time it clicked (me turning the key to start) it stayed around 1.08 ,1.05 amps... now seeing as the meter supposedly reads from 60A up, im not sure if the 1 amp reading is a valid measurement. this is measuring on the + cable about 5 inches from the end of the cable

Go with the side by side... I've never seen anyone tow anything with a golf cart. plus parts may be more available in your area for a SxS.

Only the QC pass paper which i am kicking my self in the a$$ for throwing away.......

I did some googling and reading and most small engines in this HP range starters, No load draw average of 40amps and 180 max underload. I'll try to get a hold of arrowhead and see what they spec for this starter.

Oh wow. Didn't think starters pulled that little of amperage. Seemed like most focused on the Max amperage not the minimum

it never hurts to check though.... sometimes i miss the obvious

well apparently that version amp meter i bought only comes in AC now, not DC. so amazon recommended this one to me, supposed to be here tomorrow, 600A ac/dc https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089CKQ3QX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

it's got a brand new solenoid i put on last night, i inspected it all last night, brushes were good.

Wonder if air got or is getting in the injector system, can you crack the lines loose just before the injector and crank it over to bleed?

It's definitely worth a try. If it works, it's a $9 fix, if not, oh well.

I found this video online, basically what mine is doing, several people in the comments said they had the same problem, and 1 person said it was a bad connection, others also said a bad cable. Or High resistance in the starter circuit. https://youtu.be/rXorKGg2TbA

Okay, the starter has very minimal play, i put it in the vice, and set up my dial indicator, zero'd it, and at max it has 2 1/2 Thousandths side to side.

I replaced the flywheel in 2018 when i rebuilt it, so it only has about 300 hours on it.

Solenoid shift. there is a piece that the solenoid clips to, that piece is attached to the starter gear, when the solenoid retracts, that causes the bottom of the piece to move the opposite direction pushing the starter gear outwards.

I'll have to pull the starter and check for how much slack is in it.

Another thing, from the factory the starter comes with 2 holes in it on the bottom. One hole is plugged. The other is not. I just wonder if fine dust from riding is getting in there and over a period of starts wears on the support shaft bushing surfaces and wears them to the point where the shaft isn't aligned with the ring gear on the fly wheel.

Okay, i was able to contort my body into a position where i could see the flywheel gear much better. and used the weight of a pair of vice grips to hold the key in START. i then got a screwdriver and moved the flywheel a hair, and when i say HAIR, i mean a HAIR.. and the starter kicked over and engaged and spun the engine. Now 2 things, Is it a issue with the flywheel teeth, Or: The clutch on the starter gear is designed to spin freely 1 way, and spin the motor the way that allows the gear to move independently of the shaft so it can mesh with the teeth on the flywheel, then it spins the engine over. SO I DON'T FREAKING KNOW OR is the starter not getting enough amperage to overcome that friction???

scrap what i said in the last post.

Okay, here's what's happening. i removed the flywheel housing again, and whenever the starter clicks, it only moves, maybe a 1/8" of an inch? It isn't hitting the flywheel and stopping, it's just bare moving. i'll try to record a video.

Okay, i put the spare solenoid on, (of course i had to remove the starter to do that ) so while the starter was on the bench, i hooked up a good battery to it. and it spun up every time HOWEVER, the way i'm triggering the solenoid is jumping from the + (alot of amps) to the trigger tab with a 18 gauge wire. Now, i did clean up the starter gear and clutch and WD 40'd it, and that seemed to help a little bit, it turned it over a few times before it started clicking again, back on the mule. Of course i've read about the starter needing shimmed and what not, but i highly doubt that it's the case as the starter worked great for a month and a half before any problems occured. Teeth were in good shape also.