Travis

I've never had an issue with battery cables where i needed to test their resistance, so i don't know if an issue with the solenoid would cause a difference in resistance .. are you able to get test leads to the solenoid posts?

i don't think you have much to lose by replacing the solenoid. if you cant find the OEM solenoid you can always get a riding mower solenoid and do it that way.

is there also a drop in voltage? Ohms mean nothing to me unless i have a spec sheet to look at. but if that solenoid is good i would think the drop would be less than that.

check your oil level on the dipstick, be sure it isn't overfull and smells like gasoline. as far as the choke goes, if possible, remove the air filter so you can see the choke butterfly, put it on full choke and make sure the choke is fully closing, push on the butterfly to see if you can close it even more.

now to find where that hose goes.

probably so

as far as i know, should just be a trigger wire, should read the same or lightly less than the battery. probably goes through a relay or safety switch.

Kenfain summed it all up very well, here are my 2 cents that worth about 1 cent. What is the battery voltage at the battery, Positive and negative posts? it should be the same or within 1 or 2 tenths of a volt the STARTER SIDE of the solenoid, or the same. if you have good voltage at the battery, and lower voltage down stream of the solenoid, somethings wacky in the solenoid most likely.

i doesn't throw you out of your seat when you stop , does it? i drove a RTV900 one time, nothing like my mule, let off the gas, and nearly threw me out coming to a stop because of the way their drivetrain works.

i would start it up, or turn the key ON, and feel of any hot wires you can reach, such as the main + battery cable, to be sure there isn't a short burning the coating off a wire. also check for any thing that may have fell on the muffler/exhaust pipe.

are there any manufacturer markings on the starter so you can identify who made it? Denso usually a sticker with their name and Partnumber on it,

i've tested many high CCA batteries and such and have never burnt through any wires.......oh well... there was one time i let a wire dangle on the exhaust pipe i got some of these, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W9HN9R8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 they're worth their weight in gold, come in very handy!

well, it may be hard to get a accurate reading since you will need to be cranking the engine for that side to get powered up. unless you disconnect the cable at the starter and risk sparks and shorting something out. O

as far as the solenoid, just make sure you've got the same voltage on both sides, you ought to be okay..The two times i listed above, i had 12.5 on Batt side, and about 9.8 on the other side. I don't know how it does it, but it did a new solenoid fixed it.

https://www.scautosports.com/Massimo-Parts/TB410_STARTING_MOTOR_M $110, not bad.. you might check with Arrowhead to see if they have one that will work. . but one thing i just thought of, you might ought to check Voltage in 2 places, on the battery side of the starter solenoid, and the Starter side of the solenoid, in rare cases, a solenoid can work, but not pass full voltage/amperage through it . i've ran into it twice on a Murray and JD mower.

Does your starter look like this? Or is the solenoid piggyback?

Have you tried jumping the wiring with jumper cables? Go from the buggies Battery to the starter, if it starts fine, wiring issue. If not, bad battery , starter, or wiring issue.

Yes. Battery fault is most likely.

I've jump started my lawnmower from a dodge Ram several times when the battery was starting to falter. at worst, it should have a 20 or 30 amp fuse to protect the delicate wiring if something were to happen.

Kind of odd... usually manufacturers are better about updating stuff. maybe someone at Hisun finally got it right with this one machine, lol

here's a web site claiming to have parts, and this one looks very close to yours https://www.roketapartsdept.com/roketa_UV-03-500_parts/

I haven't. but when i google searched the name, it sure looks like your UTV.

10 volts is borderline, but as long as it holds it ought to be okay. have you tried jump starting it with your car? or another known good battery of similar size? i would get a set of jumper cables, From the buggies battery take the positive straight to the + lug on the starter, and ground from the battery to a bolt on the frame or other good ground. then try to start it, if it spins over good with the jumpers, there is an issue with the wiring, not being able to carry the amperage. If not either battery or the starter, or excessive compression load on the engine. next i would use a car battery, or better yet a battery of good condition and similar in amps, go from the + on that battery, to the + on the starter, and - to a good ground on the buggy, try to start it. Does it start fine like it's supposed to? If YES, Battery issue. if NO, probably a starter issue or excessive compression load on the engine and starter.

so the coil is not sparking, correct? Not knowing how you checked for spark, have you tried a new spark plug(s)?