Travis

fed again today, Mule started up fine every single time.

01 Mule 550 KAF300C5. everywhere i looked last month, OEM denso starters are about $300-$400. I did find an Aftermarket Moose racing starter for it on partzilla , $143, i came across that starter last month too and found that it's also made by Arrowhead industries, which is what i got for $90 from a arrowhead dealer.

This is a small engine, with a small engine battery, a small engine alternator (stator). I have never seen a battery sit at 13.6 volts. On a small Mule/atv or lawnmower. 13.6 is great charging voltage though while running. Did you see my post that i got the battery load tested? It was perfectly in the Green

Sounded like it was coming from the starter motor, more of a Clunk, than a click now that i think of it.

Are you replacing the water pumps with Original parts or aftermarket?

It only clicked whenever i moved the key from On to Start, i never got rapid clicking with the key held in start. I got a Amp meter ordered, should arrive tomorrow, i went with a Mid Price range one, rather than the $19.99 deals. If i had to get one one for work and i'd buy a Klein or other name brand, but once or twice i hope it will do fine. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z398YWF/ref=sspa_dk_detail_0?pd_rd_i=B07Z398YWF&pd_rd_w=p1auc&pf_rd_p=14ceaa6a-1e28-4d0f-a108-58cc89c508f1&pd_rd_wg=4xvL4&pf_rd_r=VNZHCJD90WGD170VRJ5E&pd_rd_r=22625a41-1740-4e38-9387-a7058b60b280&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUE0OTExV1pYNUhERlImZW5jcnlwdGVkSWQ9QTAwODc1NzAxUEE2RU0yTkFSVjJOJmVuY3J5cHRlZEFkSWQ9QTA5NTQ0NDkySUdaTVczS0RYNEtUJndpZGdldE5hbWU9c3BfZGV0YWlsX3RoZW1hdGljJmFjdGlvbj1jbGlja1JlZGlyZWN0JmRvTm90TG9nQ2xpY2s9dHJ1ZQ&th=1

Okay, took the battery out and headed over to my Uncle's place, load tested it, and it held at about 11.8 with load, and unloaded voltage is 12.8

but it's so weird how intermittent it is, if it were the battery i would think it would be more of a constant issue? All i know is electricity is crazy and i'm crazier, so i ordered a new + cable, and then the amp meter should be here tomorrow, and i'll load test the battery in a bit.

Ground is good, all connections are clean and tight. Ignition switch and Relay's have tested good. I did switch batteries with a known good one from my mower with the old starter, still had the issue. I Replaced the flywheel when i rebuilt the engine, and the teeth look good. My uncle has a load tester, so i am going to borrow that again and load test again, and i ordered a clamp Amp meter to test amp draw.

I had that thought too, i've spun it over by hand through the 4 cycles when i was dealing with the last starter and it felt like any other small engine in that horsepower range, no hang ups or anything so i don't think my engine is causing an excess load.

However, it does seem strange that if it were a cable issue where it can't carry the amperage, why did it spin the starter over just fine when i shorted the solenoid? and another thing, by me holding the key in start, that's putting voltage on the trigger wire, which retracts the plunger and makes contact with the Big+ to pass currrent to the starter motor , so if i hold the key all the way in start, the solenoid is engaging, current just isn't being passed through, then when i short the two studs, it passes current to the motor. You know, i just wonder if the trigger requires certain amps also? have to break open my manual..

i sure hope not. I've started it about 5 times since it clicked and it did fine those times.

Just looked it up, $9 for the cable. Way less than i was expecting. Used the Mule some more and it started right up every time.

battery cable is original, no voltage drop through the +.

Yes sir, they do...

36 days of no faults, i started it up to go feed, killed it, loaded the feed, started right up, drove for a little bit, killed it to pour out the feed, started right up, go back to the barn, close all gates and what not, back to the mule, Click, Click, Click, with no sign of starting. luckily being young enough to have some stretch in my muscles, i was able to jump the starter posts, while holding the key in start and she fired up. drove back to the house, killed it, and started without problem, like normal.... Now, i have plan, if it keeps on doing this and it was not just a one time deal, all i need to do is remove the flywheel housing. that will give me a perfect view of the flywheel and starter gear, so i can see what they're doing when it just clicks, if it's jamming against the flywheel or not.... i hope it was just this one time....

Looked up the parts diagrams, that pulley looks very similar to the one on my mule, i just used a 3 prong puller on it. now when you go to put the pulley back on, put some never seize or some kind of rust inhibitor on the crankshaft, it'll came off easily if you have to remove it again.

Never take the word of the salesperson

Depending on the posts of your battery, either round like a car, or square with screw holding the cables on, you might can attach the wire with something like these.. https://www.amazon.com/Haisstronica-Connectors-Heat-Connectors-Insulated-Terminals/dp/B08HK1Q4F6/ref=lp_306730011_1_2

Check out this service manual from our download section, (HiSun makes Coleman) Believe this is the correct model.

Hi Kyle! what brand and model UTV do you have? usually a three prong puller will do, i thread the retaining bolt in with about 1/2" to 3/4" from the head of the bolt to the clutch, and put the stud of the tool on that bolt head, slowly tighten it, give the pulley an occasional tap with the hammer to help vibrate any rust loose or corrosion.

i've never seen a connector that needed a special tool to release them, a flat head screw driver usually works.

Yes, the frame should be fine.anyone with basic fabrication skills could fix some issues if it had any defects. You've got a huge project ahead of you. Good luck.

I think you have more to worry about than the frame. If you buy that Jalopy in that condition, by the time you fix wiring, seats etc., if did indeed burn up, you'll probably need all new electrical components, and who knows what on the engine .you may as well buy a used or brand new side by side. Unless you are Extremely bored, have a crap ton of patience, and have a lot of Money $$$$. Most steel's and iron alloys melt around 2,000 or 2,500 Degrees F.

scared me all the way to death and back.