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rocmoc

Replacing Rear Wheel Bearings

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I am taking pics.

You will need -

Two rear wheel bearings, I got mine from snowman at No Limits Powersports, http://www.joyner-atv-utv.com/ but also available from Silver Bullet Motorsports, http://silverbulletmotorsports.net/

Two seals (metric sizing), part specs TC 45 65 8 purchased from Motion Industries, http://www.motionindustries.com/motion3/jsp/mii/LocationsMI.jsp which are being dropped shipped to me. 3 for approx $15

Large socket set to break the nut loose on the axle holding the hub on. I have a 3/4" set and worked great.

C-clip removal tool, I have one but was easier using an old screwdriver trick.

Seal puller, I have a bodyman's dent removal tool with an adapter that works. This saves the old seal but you could use a screwdriver and kill the seal.

Remove the wheel/tire.

Remove the cotter key.

Remove large nut, someone needs sit in the Trooper applying the brakes to keep the axle from turning.

Remove the brake calipers, 2 bolts per caliper & two calipers per wheel in the rear for a total of 4 bolts.

Slide the hub & rotor off the end of the axle.

Remove the 2 bolts holding the backing hub/bearing housing to the swingarm. One on top, one on bottom.

Remove the bearing housing.

Wipe, clean so you can see what you are doing.

Remove the seal. The seal is in front of the C-clip & bearing.

Wipe, clean so you can see what you are doing.

Remove the C-clip, can be a pain if you have never done it before.

Slide the bearing out.

CLEAN!

That is as far as I am on one side. Waiting for the seals. Why there are seals is beyond me. The bearing is sealed so it is just extra protection. There was grease in the area between the seal & bearing. Cheap insurance so I will put it back the way I found it. I can tell the bearing has spun a very very small amount. The fit between the housing & the bearing is still very very good. Lenny's tip to locite the outside of the bearing in place to the housing is important! But will make it more difficult to remove the bearing the next time it requires replacement.

Yes, my original bearing had wear & slop. IMHO not that bad but did need replacement. The bearing isn't as bad as the design of the housing is. Taper roller bearings should have been the real design but what the heck lasted 4 years.

rocmoc n AZ

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Dang, you got right on those!!! bearings same price & same bearing, from both? Tried pm ing you,, can't?

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I am taking pics.

You will need -

Two rear wheel bearings, I got mine from snowman at No Limits Powersports, http://www.joyner-atv-utv.com/ but also available from Silver Bullet Motorsports, http://silverbulletmotorsports.net/

Two seals (metric sizing), part specs TC 45 65 8 purchased from Motion Industries, http://www.motionindustries.com/motion3/jsp/mii/LocationsMI.jsp which are being dropped shipped to me. 3 for approx $15

Large socket set to break the nut loose on the axle holding the hub on. I have a 3/4" set and worked great.

C-clip removal tool, I have one but was easier using an old screwdriver trick.

Seal puller, I have a bodyman's dent removal tool with an adapter that works. This saves the old seal but you could use a screwdriver and kill the seal.

Remove the wheel/tire.

Remove the cotter key.

Remove large nut, someone needs sit in the Trooper applying the brakes to keep the axle from turning.

Remove the brake calipers, 2 bolts per caliper & two calipers per wheel in the rear for a total of 4 bolts.

Slide the hub & rotor off the end of the axle.

Remove the 2 bolts holding the backing hub/bearing housing to the swingarm. One on top, one on bottom.

Remove the bearing housing.

Wipe, clean so you can see what you are doing.

Remove the seal. The seal is in front of the C-clip & bearing.

Wipe, clean so you can see what you are doing.

Remove the C-clip, can be a pain if you have never done it before.

Slide the bearing out.

CLEAN!

That is as far as I am on one side. Waiting for the seals. Why there are seals is beyond me. The bearing is sealed so it is just extra protection. There was grease in the area between the seal & bearing. Cheap insurance so I will put it back the way I found it. I can tell the bearing has spun a very very small amount. The fit between the housing & the bearing is still very very good. Lenny's tip to locite the outside of the bearing in place to the housing is important! But will make it more difficult to remove the bearing the next time it requires replacement.

Yes, my original bearing had wear & slop. IMHO not that bad but did need replacement. The bearing isn't as bad as the design of the housing is. Taper roller bearings should have been the real design but what the heck lasted 4 years.

rocmoc n AZ

Thanks rocmoc,hope kinarfi puts this in a folder for future reference.

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I am taking pics.

You will need -

Two rear wheel bearings, I got mine from snowman at No Limits Powersports, http://www.joyner-atv-utv.com/ but also available from Silver Bullet Motorsports, http://silverbulletmotorsports.net/

Two seals (metric sizing), part specs TC 45 65 8 purchased from Motion Industries, http://www.motionindustries.com/motion3/jsp/mii/LocationsMI.jsp which are being dropped shipped to me. 3 for approx $15

Large socket set to break the nut loose on the axle holding the hub on. I have a 3/4" set and worked great.

C-clip removal tool, I have one but was easier using an old screwdriver trick.

Seal puller, I have a bodyman's dent removal tool with an adapter that works. This saves the old seal but you could use a screwdriver and kill the seal.

Remove the wheel/tire.

Remove the cotter key.

Remove large nut, someone needs sit in the Trooper applying the brakes to keep the axle from turning.

Remove the brake calipers, 2 bolts per caliper & two calipers per wheel in the rear for a total of 4 bolts.

Slide the hub & rotor off the end of the axle.

Remove the 2 bolts holding the backing hub/bearing housing to the swingarm. One on top, one on bottom.

Remove the bearing housing.

Wipe, clean so you can see what you are doing.

Remove the seal. The seal is in front of the C-clip & bearing.

Wipe, clean so you can see what you are doing.

Remove the C-clip, can be a pain if you have never done it before.

Slide the bearing out.

CLEAN!

That is as far as I am on one side. Waiting for the seals. Why there are seals is beyond me. The bearing is sealed so it is just extra protection. There was grease in the area between the seal & bearing. Cheap insurance so I will put it back the way I found it. I can tell the bearing has spun a very very small amount. The fit between the housing & the bearing is still very very good. Lenny's tip to locite the outside of the bearing in place to the housing is important! But will make it more difficult to remove the bearing the next time it requires replacement.

Yes, my original bearing had wear & slop. IMHO not that bad but did need replacement. The bearing isn't as bad as the design of the housing is. Taper roller bearings should have been the real design but what the heck lasted 4 years.

rocmoc n AZ

When it comes time to remove the loctited in bearings, just add some heat, about 200 degrees and they will come right out. Wouldn't hurt the bearing either but you wouldn't be removing it, if it was good anyway. Sorry I didn't get to your emails sooner, switching to a new computer and it's not plug and play to move everything over and get it all working.

Lenny

Lenny

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I am taking pics.

You will need -

Two rear wheel bearings, I got mine from snowman at No Limits Powersports, http://www.joyner-atv-utv.com/ but also available from Silver Bullet Motorsports, http://silverbulletmotorsports.net/

Two seals (metric sizing), part specs TC 45 65 8 purchased from Motion Industries, http://www.motionindustries.com/motion3/jsp/mii/LocationsMI.jsp which are being dropped shipped to me. 3 for approx $15

Large socket set to break the nut loose on the axle holding the hub on. I have a 3/4" set and worked great.

C-clip removal tool, I have one but was easier using an old screwdriver trick.

Seal puller, I have a bodyman's dent removal tool with an adapter that works. This saves the old seal but you could use a screwdriver and kill the seal.

Remove the wheel/tire.

Remove the cotter key.

Remove large nut, someone needs sit in the Trooper applying the brakes to keep the axle from turning.

Remove the brake calipers, 2 bolts per caliper & two calipers per wheel in the rear for a total of 4 bolts.

Slide the hub & rotor off the end of the axle.

Remove the 2 bolts holding the backing hub/bearing housing to the swingarm. One on top, one on bottom.

Remove the bearing housing.

Wipe, clean so you can see what you are doing.

Remove the seal. The seal is in front of the C-clip & bearing.

Wipe, clean so you can see what you are doing.

Remove the C-clip, can be a pain if you have never done it before.

Slide the bearing out.

CLEAN!

That is as far as I am on one side. Waiting for the seals. Why there are seals is beyond me. The bearing is sealed so it is just extra protection. There was grease in the area between the seal & bearing. Cheap insurance so I will put it back the way I found it. I can tell the bearing has spun a very very small amount. The fit between the housing & the bearing is still very very good. Lenny's tip to locite the outside of the bearing in place to the housing is important! But will make it more difficult to remove the bearing the next time it requires replacement.

Yes, my original bearing had wear & slop. IMHO not that bad but did need replacement. The bearing isn't as bad as the design of the housing is. Taper roller bearings should have been the real design but what the heck lasted 4 years.

rocmoc n AZ

Mr. Rocmoc,

Do a good report on this, I plan to just copy and paste your report into Parts, pieces & info. Unfortunately, that post is getting so big, I think I need to break it up a little, so this will be under the heading of rear wheel bearing replacement by Rocmoc.

Kinarfi

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Kinarfi,

Will do, that is what I am trying to do. Not everyone lives near a great dealer/vendor like the ones mentioned above for parts so they are on there own. Hopefully this will help them order and install themselves. There are always little surprises in every task and that is what I will try to eliminate.

rocmoc n AZ

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Kinarfi,

Will do, that is what I am trying to do. Not everyone lives near a great dealer/vendor like the ones mentioned above for parts so they are on there own. Hopefully this will help them order and install themselves. There are always little surprises in every task and that is what I will try to eliminate.

rocmoc n AZ

Looking good so far, we can put all the photos in web shots and thumb nail a few of them into the post. This would work for other projects also, Maybe when I get enough courage to pull my engine and rewire, I'll post that there also. A report on differentials would be good too, maybe on CVs.

kinarfi

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Will be working on Trooper bearings tomorrow. I had to get some metal prep cleaner today in Tucson, run out yesterday.

rocmoc n AZ

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I am taking pics.

You will need -

Two rear wheel bearings, I got mine from snowman at No Limits Powersports, http://www.joyner-atv-utv.com/ but also available from Silver Bullet Motorsports, http://silverbulletmotorsports.net/

Two seals (metric sizing), part specs TC 45 65 8 purchased from Motion Industries, http://www.motionindustries.com/motion3/jsp/mii/LocationsMI.jsp which are being dropped shipped to me. 3 for approx $15

Large socket set to break the nut loose on the axle holding the hub on. I have a 3/4" set and worked great.

C-clip removal tool, I have one but was easier using an old screwdriver trick.

Seal puller, I have a bodyman's dent removal tool with an adapter that works. This saves the old seal but you could use a screwdriver and kill the seal.

Remove the wheel/tire.

Remove the cotter key.

Remove large nut, someone needs sit in the Trooper applying the brakes to keep the axle from turning.

Remove the brake calipers, 2 bolts per caliper & two calipers per wheel in the rear for a total of 4 bolts.

Slide the hub & rotor off the end of the axle.

Remove the 2 bolts holding the backing hub/bearing housing to the swingarm. One on top, one on bottom.

Remove the bearing housing.

Wipe, clean so you can see what you are doing.

Remove the seal. The seal is in front of the C-clip & bearing.

Wipe, clean so you can see what you are doing.

Remove the C-clip, can be a pain if you have never done it before.

Slide the bearing out.

CLEAN!

That is as far as I am on one side. Waiting for the seals. Why there are seals is beyond me. The bearing is sealed so it is just extra protection. There was grease in the area between the seal & bearing. Cheap insurance so I will put it back the way I found it. I can tell the bearing has spun a very very small amount. The fit between the housing & the bearing is still very very good. Lenny's tip to locite the outside of the bearing in place to the housing is important! But will make it more difficult to remove the bearing the next time it requires replacement.

Yes, my original bearing had wear & slop. IMHO not that bad but did need replacement. The bearing isn't as bad as the design of the housing is. Taper roller bearings should have been the real design but what the heck lasted 4 years.

rocmoc n AZ

Silverbullet hi rocmoc

We Just got are double row taperd roller bearing.Made in the UK. 35x65x35. these are vary good quality.On the subject of any bearing they should be clean and greased 1 a year.Sand can get in or water also.We recomend this to all our customers.The seal cant keep the bearing clean.We check all our bearing to make sure they are greased from factory.Some bearing have little grease in them when new.

Hope this helps you guys and no cotter pins, use some thing made out of steel.

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I use a nail as the cotter key. Works great and is cheap. Yearly is too much work vs reward for me. It is like the people who change their oil every 3,000 miles. I change mine every 15,000 miles. Originals Joyner bearings lasted 4 years. I would be more concerned if I played in a lot of mud & water and that going to happening here in So. AZ. This is the same style bearing ran in the rear of BMW and they don't have the additional seals, only the seal on the bearing. The bearings in the BMW are normally good for 60,000+ miles but the quality is the big question. Thanks for the info & advise.

rocmoc n AZ

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Surprise, surprise, surprise. I did the easy one first. Everything was the same until it came time to remove the bearing. This one was tight / press in. It was more of a challenge to remove the bearing from the housing. This is the way they are suppose to be, my left side is a very very small amount enlarged. Not a problem yet but something to watch in the future. That is why the outside of the radius showed it had spun. The real design flaw is the housing. It should have been a bit larger so it could have held a standard 35 72 35 bearing. MAYBE someday if a new part is made Joyner or aftermarket why make this correction, a very easy fix with NO additional expense if done at the time of manufacture. In the next post I am linking TWO youtube videos of the rear bearing replacement on a BMW. The process is nearly identical. The bearing is identical but a std size, humm the Germans have there act together.

rocmoc n AZ

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Seals arrived. Timken 45X65X8 / 100127598 / 1.772 X 2.559 X 0.315

Motion Industries charged me $11 for 3 seal and $12 shipping plus tax for a total of $25.05 for 3 seals. Do a search on google and see if you can get a better price. Seems high to me!

Still healing!

rocmoc n AZ

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That price is more than fair in my opinion. The retail prices on the Joyner seals are 5.17 for the inner and 6.38 for the outter.

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I cleaned parts today.

The seal info above / earlier is for the outer seal. There is an inner seal and the numbers to use for replacement are TC 42X62X8. I did not remove mine as they do not inhibit the replacement of the bearings and were in good shape. After cleaning I could see the number for future use. Since I removed the entire hub / housing, I took the opportunity to clean the two bushings contacts. Both were in good shape and will be greased when reinstalled.

rocmoc n AZ

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I cleaned parts today.

The seal info above / earlier is for the outer seal. There is an inner seal and the numbers to use for replacement are TC 42X62X8. I did not remove mine as they do not inhibit the replacement of the bearings and were in good shape. After cleaning I could see the number for future use. Since I removed the entire hub / housing, I took the opportunity to clean the two bushings contacts. Both were in good shape and will be greased when reinstalled.

rocmoc n AZ

I hope you are taking pictures.

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As it turns out the process is EXACTLY like the youtube videos I posted with the exception you take the hub / housing off. You do the same removal & install of the bearing on the bench or floor. BUT the exactly same process, EVERYTHING!

We do have the addition of the inner & outer seals but that is a very minor item to deal with. Very easy to remove & install.

rocmoc n AZ edit, kinarfi, 10-4

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DONE! The process IS exactly as the BMW youtube videos. All of the components look nearly exactly the same except in size.

Key Learning of Bad News & disappointment:

The bearing HAS TO press out and press into place. If you can remove the bearing with your fingers or will little effort, the hub / housing is SHOT or needs rebuilt. After putting everything back, using loctite and torquing the nut correctly; the left wheel still had slop / movement. Definitely, IMHO, the bearings are of much better quality than the hub / housing. So now I have to keep a look out for a replacement hub / housing or see if an aftermarket source can be found. Replacing with the same IS NOT the real fix. That will only a band aide as it is just the same thing that has already failed.

Right side, bearing had to be pressed out and pressed in, came out perfectly!

If you are replacing your bearings and the wheel as slop before you even start, be concerned. If you can remove the bearing with little or no effort, you are wasting you time & money!

rocmoc n AZ

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