Quantcast
Jump to content

Inner CV housing issue


Tinman
 Share

Recommended Posts

Mi inner cv Housings wobble around on the splined diff shaft. All inner ones have this issue.

Does anyone else have this, and does it get worse as you use it?

I've got 7k miles, and have been contemplating a fix - 2 10x1.25 in-line tapped holes in the housing over the splined shaft with two SHCS bolts, as short as possible locking them in and keeping them from wobbling.

Keeping the bolts short prevents balance issues, and SHCS are case hardened. Dimpling the shafts would keep from damaging them and make removal easier. On a side note, I could also permanently remove the locking rings, as the bolts would do the same.

Thoughts?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been meaning to post this for some time now so maybe now is a good time. I didn't fix mine because I thought they would wear out but I'm sure they do wear some. I mainly fixed mine because of the clunking noise they can make. Fixing it means four less places making noise. This is what I did to fix mine. I started out by using a 1/16" thick cutoff wheel and cut 6 slots into the spline end of the CV outer housing. These were cut all the way down to the base. I then machined the area with the slots on a taper of .020" per 1" of outer length. The taper wants to run to the larger part of the outer but no more. Leaveing as much material as possible but still having a full length taper. I then took a 3/4" thick round ring and machined a taper on its ID to match and sized so it would almost slide on but be about 1/8" of getting flush. One of the pictures shows it slid on this far. I then set the outer up in an hydraulic press. Didn't have one and always was going to build one, so I did. It's a 25 ton bench design. Got everything set up to be able to press the ring onto the spline. It requires taking the output shaft out of the differential, I had an extra one laying around so I used it. At that point, I heat the outers end to a cherry red and press the collar on, but not all the way. I wanted to go about 2/3 of the way to the bottom. I didn't want to go so far, making it too tight so that I couldn't slide them on the splines. I probably should have gone only about 1/2 way down because mine were a bit tight but they did go on with some medium tapping with a lead hammer. It would be better to be a bit loose and have to go back reheat and give it a little more then to be too tight. Once pressed on the hot red hot end, I let it cool for about 3 hours. By the way I punched the little plug that separated the spline from the joint itself out. Don't need it when things are tight. I then put 3 setscrews in the ring to tighten against the outers od. These were 120 degrees apart. I also drilled and taped three 3/8 fine bolt holes in the side of the ring again 120 degrees apart. With hex bolts in the taped holes, the heads towards the larger end of the outer, provides a way to get the ring slid back off when removal is required. When assembling, I would slide the collar on as far as it would go without forcing it and install the CV outer on the output shaft. I then used a puller to draw it onto the taper which makes it all act like a collet. It gets real tight. I then tighten the 3 setscrews to hold things in place. By the way, I used never seez on the rings Id to keep it from galling onto the shaft. It works great and is super solid on the shaft.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The clip is gone and It doesn't need tempering. I used a hack saw to test the material and found it was quite soft. Figured it being soft it would be fine. After I was done it tested the same with the hack saw. I tested it on an old CV outer first and it was fine so I went ahead and did the 4 on the Trooper. I, like everyone else, hated that clip.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually I have been thinking of building one from scratch. Been thinking about selling mine because I'll need the room in my shop. Hate too, I've done so much to it, its a real solid buggy now and real fast but can't hang on to it and build one at the same time. Going to take a beaten on it. Got a lot of money into it but its not about the money but being able to be creative with something. After all, my basic life career has be in product development which I love very much. I have learned an awful lot, a lot of it from you guys here.I have more fun trying new things then riding so I'm going to have to give up riding for a while. Jeanne and I are planning on getting a larger 5th wheel trailer and doing some longer term trips. General exploring, site seeing and some prospecting. Maybe three or four months at a time. Have wanted to do that for years. Sort of just shy of being a full time vacationer. We won't be taking the Trooper, won't be able to double trailer any more, too long. Plan on throwing a couple of dirt bikes on the back of the 5th wheel. Plan on doing the design work in Solidworks on the computer while on the road. Looking forward to it. So if you see my Trooper on Ebay at some point, you'll understand my plans. I very much plan on staying around. After all, we all have become like a family here.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I can't say I'm too surprised, I think you'll make a fantastic rig, I just wish we lived closer so I could come watch and help. Good luck to you and I look forward to seeing what you come up with, but will miss having to opportunity to ride with you and Jeanne from time to time. Let me know if you end up in my area.

Kinari

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks! I don't know, I guess the market will decide. I would like to get 18K out of it. I have about 10K more then that into it. I would like to see someone buy and race it. Its real fast and handles the rough stuff good. Its a riot to blast the trails with and great in the dunes. I guess time will tell what someone is willing to pay for it. Here I go again getting ready to dive into another money pit. Doesn't matter, I'm having loads of fun and meeting great people along the way. Can't ask for more then that. I'll still be here on the forum throwing out my 2 cents worth for what its worth.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

So,

I didn't do Lenny's fix, cus you need balls, acetylene and a lathe, etc.,

I tapped into the housing over the output shaft, and put in 10mm screws.

FYI, the housing is soft but the spline on the inside is case hardened. I'm figuring about 60 rockwell. I used a combination of concrete bits and a regular HSS drill to get through, then ground the inside to get rid of as much of the spline around the hole as possible so I wouldn't bugger up the taps too much.

A set of three taps - #1, 2 and bottoming got all holes done. This is an all day job because of the case hardening.

I'll let everyone know how it works out. It is quiter, but will it last?

If anyone is contemplating doing this, don't forget to taper the end of the bolts so they don't mushroom out and make it impossible to remove.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Similar Topics

    • By pchow
      This just started happening a few rides ago. 4x4 and full lock were working fine. Now it won't go into 4x4 or lock. Took the servo motor off and it turns and operates just fine when I press the 4x4 button and lock button so I know its not that. Been doing some research and people seem to be saying that the slider (picture with red arrow pointing to it) should be all the way to the right for 2 wheel drive, middle for 4x4 and all the way left for locked. I tried pushing it to the left and it won't move any farther than what you can see in the picture. Seems like it's hitting something. It'll move all the way to the right, but I can only move it about 1/4" to the left (where it is in the pic now). Been trying to find an exploded view of the front diff with no luck. The Yamaha parts diagrams don't even show this slider as a part (diagram I have attached).

      Couple of questions. Anyone have an exploded diagram of what the front diff parts should look like for a 2009 Rhino 700 FI
      Special Edition? Some people say there should be a "fork" that the slider moves but I can't see that on the parts diagram either. Is my pic with the blue line pointing to the fork? Anyone with any ideas? Would like to get my 4x4 working again so I can do some snow wheeling soon.
       



    • By Hisun .500
      So my hisun 500 is tore up and all the wiring is wasted i was wondering can i pull out all the wiring and just put in the. Basics .please help
    • By Alex
      Its maker has affectionately dubbed it Teslaris, for obvious reasons.
      The Polaris RZR RS1 UTV has a one-liter, two-cylinder engine that from the factory has around 100 horsepower, making the 1,383-pound (627-kilogram) UTV very quick. But there’s always room for more power in one of these vehicles, and instead of fettling with its engine, one dune vehicle aficionado decided to swap in the rear drive motor out of a Tesla Model 3 / Model Y.
      We don’t know how many of the battery modules the put in the vehicle, but it doesn’t appear to be much heavier than stock and it goes up sand dunes with remarkable ease. Depending on which version of Model 3 was the motor donor, the drive unit could have either 261 or 325 horsepower, as long as the battery pack can supply enough wattage and voltage.
      Judging by how easily it flies up the steep sand dune, almost lifting the front wheels off the ground under harder acceleration, it’s safe to say it looks like a real hoot. The steep grade you see it tackling in the video uploaded by the electric UTV’s creator, Ron Cobbley, is located in the St. Anthony, Idaho sand dunes.
      We found more videos on vehicle’s official Instagram account and aside from how interesting it is to see an electric powertrain in an application like this (and how it changes the vehicle), we also noticed that you really hear the tires on the sand more. Usually, this sound is drowned out by the engine.

      The sound’s tone and pitch probably change with speed, giving the driver audible information to help him or her gauge their speed. You don’t really get this in a road-going EV driven on tarmac, which is why it’s trickier to drive an EV quickly - specifically because you have no way of knowing how fast you’re going just by ear.
      Source: https://insideevs.com/news/559789/polaris-utv-tesla-motor-dunes/
    • By Rick McGill
      I thought the problem was electrical but I just found this in the oil filler tube. Does anyone recognize the part? I know I'll have to tear down the whole engine, and maybe I'll find the rest of it in there. Something beg enough to seize up the engine. That was the problem I was trying to diagnose.... 'Cause it's locked up. 
      Thanks in advance.
      Rick
       

       

       
       
    • eManualOnline
    • By Travis
      I'm getting a small area of rust starting behind each front wheel, (where the cow pies get slung). I'm pleased with the job POR15 did in the bed, so i will just repeat the process in that area. however, i'm not sure how POR15 will hold up to cow crap getting slung on it.. and my reasoning  is Cow poo is somewhat acidic, and when left too long with out cleaning off, starts to lift paint, so i don't know how that will affect POR15. what i'm thinking of doing getting steel sheeting with aluminum finish, or a stainless steel sheet  and bend it and fit it to the inside of the wheel well to form somewhat of a "splash/splatter" guard  to protect the actual frame and sheet metal from further corrosion as well as were I ....there are several places where i could tack weld it to the frame underneath...
       
       
  • Gallery Images


×
×
  • Create New...