Machine sat and had multiple rodent chews thru out the wiring that we fixed. Also replaced the Following: ECU, Coil and Plug Wire, small Control Box that contains fuses and relays. Pick Up coil test at 219 ohms which is typically good on most machines but i can't find the specific manual on this thing to get the spec. Battery good, cranks fine but the fuel pump doesn't prime or run and no spark. Tested pump with direct 12volts and it works. If we supply a ground to the pump it primes and works but still no spark. We have traced all wiring including grounding and all is good. Tested key switch. I has (4) positions. 1 - off, 2 - does nothing, 3 - powers up everything (lighting and odometer and powers ECU, 4 - starts engine. The key switch only has 3 wires. 12v in from battery and 2 - 12v out which is power to the system and send 12v to starter relay coil.
Are these electrical systems actually switching the grounds on and off vs the traditional switching the 12v+ on and off.
at my wits end with this thing.
Also when we figure this problem out we will post the solution. seems 90% of people that ask for help on these forums, never post the fix which make this pointless.
Some time ago I've purchased a 2006 Cub Cadet Volunteer 4x4 through an auction. I have just found this forum and hope you can help me or give me some ideas.
The problem here is that it was a non-runner with an "engine issue". There was some small wiring issue which I already fixed and started the engine (CAT/Perkins). To my surprise it didn't move after I put it in gear. After doing a small investigation I realised somebody took out whole CVT transmission and it lacks few gears and shafts in the transfer case. I called the dealer for a quote and the total cost of repairing it by myself on new parts makes it financially pointless.
Hence the question: do you think it's possible to swap the CVT and transfer case from some other UTV/vehicle? Or should I just scrap it/sell it for parts? I've been looking for an used transfer case but didn't find anything in US nor in EU.
Purchased it used a week ago. Found that it wont start from key but will start if solenoid jumped. Also noticed that brake lights don't work checked switch and its working, may be the no start problem from key.
Turn signals and hazards do not work headlights tail lights and hi beams all work.
have a manual but it is hard to decipher.
Hoping that someone has run into these issues and can point me in the right direction with the lights. I believe if i can get brake lights to work it may solve starting from key issue.
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Morning, I just purchased a 2011 rhino and I got a massive battery drain coming from the backup fuse. 200Ma!
I have a "juice box" ecu and I tried to find reviews on it as I also have a stalling issue when I get to a sudden stop and other forums seems to say it would be a crappy ECU.
Not sure if I have a bad ecu that does both issues or if they are unrelated problems.
Wondering if anyone here had an idea where I should poke at first. If someone could point me in the right direction, I would really appreciate it
i have a 2017 cub cadet challenger 750 camo, after a month of nonstop work with the pandemic i was finally getting a chance to ride it. it would not start, the battery was dead, went to charge the battery and noticed a mouse had chewed a yellow wire one of2 going to a block of some kind in battery box, it is tied into the 2 fuse relay breakers attached to the starter relay. there is a red with stripe wire that goes to a harness below the rectifier in engine compartment, it has no power to it with multimeter and the fuse block is getting real hot. other than that the dash lights up, but no readout and the gauges dont cycle, the fuel pump does not start. on the fuel pump i checked the red wires to the cdi and both have contact and are intact but one does not have power when the key is on and there is no spark i tried starting fluid. i have swapped out the cdi from my cousins same year and model, also the ecu and the main relay. i have no idea where to look now. his has broke the shim again and will not start. also i did notice that i wiggled a wire connector going to a sensor on the engine and a couple lights came on on the dash, the stirring wheel one and check engine but only did it once and i cant get it to do it again. i have looked over the harness for anymore damage and have found none.
has anyone seen this problem before, is it wiring? ground? what do i need to check next. the place i bought it has no service the guy said he could only swap parts and try. sent me to another place over an hour from me and that guy on the phone said he was covered up and didnt know when he could look at it so he must be busy lol. besides i dont want to have them charge me $3000 to replace everything on it before they get going.
my advice is do not buy a cub cadet, we thought we were getting a cub cadet and it turns out it is a cheap chinese pos. i still love my cub but wish i had known this before i bought it and i would not have.
any help would be appreciated thanks
Hi all, I am looking at putting in a dual battery setup to my 2015 Mule 4010. Anyone put one of these in before? Most of the research has pointed me to the True Am kit. Didnt know if anyone had done this or had a battery strap down tray they recommend or anything. Between the Winch and the Stereo...and upcoming lights I want to be able to make sure it always starts.
Thanks in advance,