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I guess this is one for the general forum. Does anyone experience a  slow turn over by the starter? I had a battery with a bad cell, and it was replaced. It wouldn't even turn over. Now it will start, but I have to hit the key a few times before it will spin over fast enough to start. The battery is a 330cca unit, so I would think that it would easily spin a single cylinder engine. This is for a Massimo T-boss 410. The engine is a 352cc, 25.5hp fuel injected unit. 

Where should I start looking? It's a 2019 UTV, with only 14.6 hours on it. In my mind, I can only think that the connections somewhere are loose, or the starter is not up to snuff. Could tracing the wires for the starter system be difficult? Is there a way to test the starter?

Thanks much!

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330cca is close on the HP rating, 350cca is only good for up to 26HP.

Most Autozone stores test starters for free.

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Hmmm..., the manual calls for one with 225cca. I thought I was doing well with a rating of 330cca. 

Is there a chart or something that shows what cca is good for a hp rating of an engine? I would find that very helpful. 

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There might be, but Orielly auto parts Lawn and Garden batteries show what HP they're good for, and 350cca is 26 or 27 HP max.

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I did some surfing on the internet for a battery, and the highest cca I could locate that would fit physically was 370. Is that the highest they go?

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33 minutes ago, T-boss 410 said:

I did some surfing on the internet for a battery, and the highest cca I could locate that would fit physically was 370. Is that the highest they go?

depends on the Group size

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Mine wasn't quite so hard to start, but there seemed to be a dead spot on my starter until I did my after break in service.  I swear it starts easier now with Lucas ATV oil, but it just may be me.

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My battery is a U1. I can use either a U1 or a U1R. I haven't found a battery in this group so far that is rated any higher than 350cca's.

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1 hour ago, T-boss 410 said:

My battery is a U1. I can use either a U1 or a U1R. I haven't found a battery in this group so far that is rated any higher than 350cca's.

Isn't the U1 a lawn tractor battery? If so, then I wouldn't expect them to go higher than 350cca. But you can measure your space available, and find something else that'll fit. Maybe something taller? When I found out that they no longer make the factory battery for my mule. I used a tape measure, and figured out which direction had some wiggle room. Then went to Walmart, and measured batteries. FWIW, the one I have  is about the same size as the lawn tractor battery, and it has 350cca. And mine is a 920cc. 3 cylinder diesel. But it costs a whole lot more than the lawn tractor battery. 

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https://www.scautosports.com/Massimo-Parts/TBOSS_410_ELECTRICAL_M

The original factory battery is UB12350, 12V 35AH, which appears to be more of a golf cart battery..  I can't find the specs for CCA, but  i found this posted on Amazon answers by an individual, "Not really a cranking battery but according to midtronics tester 300 CCA +/- 15%."

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15 minutes ago, kenfain said:

Isn't the U1 a lawn tractor battery? If so, then I wouldn't expect them to go higher than 350cca. But you can measure your space available, and find something else that'll fit. Maybe something taller? When I found out that they no longer make the factory battery for my mule. I used a tape measure, and figured out which direction had some wiggle room. Then went to Walmart, and measured batteries. FWIW, the one I have  is about the same size as the lawn tractor battery, and it has 350cca. And mine is a 920cc. 3 cylinder diesel. But it costs a whole lot more than the lawn tractor battery. 

Yeah, it's a lawn tractor battery. I was going on what was in it when I got it. As for the measurements, the battery tray is only big enough for the U1 size battery. And with the slope of the hood, I doubt I could go any taller. I could use the dimensions of the U1, but those seem to be limited to no more than 350cca. But if that's enough to turn yours over easily, I can assume that I have some other issues to deal with. 

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Is there possibly a correlation between the rated amp hours and the cca's? I ask because some batteries don't give a cca rating, but do give an amp hour rating. 

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13 minutes ago, T-boss 410 said:

Is there possibly a correlation between the rated amp hours and the cca's? I ask because some batteries don't give a cca rating, but do give an amp hour rating. 

Batteries rated in ah, are typically deep cycle batteries. Not considered to be starting batteries for some reason. Although they start an engine just fine. It's something about the light discharge of starting, followed by a full charge by way of alternator, or whatever. Deep cycle apparently prefers to discharge more deeply before recharging. Hence the name. But mine came with a deep cycle battery, for starting, and it's what I replaced it with. 

As far as a correlation goes, the answer is sort of lol. I know, that when I was looking for a battery, I asked the same thing. And there's no hard rules on this. Kinda like how a gas engine is rated in horsepower. Yet a diesel is rated by ft.lbs of torque. Or something similar. Just trying to keep things simple I guess.

   If you should find a battery  that fits, but is rated in ah instead of cca. I wouldn't worry about it being a problem. But you should be able to find out if it's got enough power to do the job, by taking some time on the internet.

   There's not an abundance of information, but there is some stuff out there about the cca/ah compatibility. Seems like it was a mathematical equation to solve the riddle. Mine was 35ah, and it seems like the replacement was just under that.

  On the plus side, you should be better equipped to run more power draw accessories with the engine off, using a deep cycle battery. 

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That was an excellent explanation! The OEM battery is rated at 35ah's, and the one I just purchased is 32ah. I would think that it should be able to start it, since I don't have any aftermarket devices. It will start, but it takes a few hits on the switch to get it to spin past the compression stroke, then it will fire right up. That's the part that has me so confused. I guess I could trace the wiring for the starter and check the connections for tightness and clean them if necessary. 

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Checking the wiring is a good start. Checking the ground for a solid connection. Test the positive cable for resistance. Test the starter's amp draw. I'd suspect that it's a starter issue. Being the most expensive of the bunch to fix, I know that'd be my luck.

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I've checked all the connections. Everything looks like new. I put a new charge on the battery, reinstalled it, and tried to start it again. Same thing. It will turn over, but it has to get past the compression stroke first. 

I see that the OEM  battery is a 35ah rating. Since I don't know how (or if) that can be converted to cca, shouldn't I be more concerned about the cca of a battery in this case?

Thanks!

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Did you get the battery load tested? yes, it's the cranking amps that does the work, if ain't putting out the amps it's going to tough to turn over.

i would get the battery load tested, if it doesn't check out good, buy a lawn and garden battery with 350CCA, they're good for up to 35 HP.

but it could even be a mechanical issue, if that engine has an automatic decompressor for easier  starting.

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No such luck on an automatic decompressor. I have a load tester here, and I tested it yesterday. It drops to about 10v, and holds it. It just seems to not be enough to easily spin the engine over. 

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