Quantcast
Jump to content

T 2 with Fox shocks


flatbed
 Share

Recommended Posts

I just got the front shocks mounted on the trooper, the 8.5s fit under the hood, i was kinda of worried that i was going to have to trim a hole for the shock tower. I ended up cutting the tube that goes across the hood and the uprights out. The new shock tower just uses the center of the frame, so there is no cross bar in the hood. I keep the shocks at the same angles as stock, just made the upper mount taller and of course closer together because they tilt towards each other. The centers on the upper shock mount bolts are 10". I have added kickers and braces so it is plenty strong. I have to shorten the fenders because the tires will now come up and hit them. The susp is so soft that i can put a 16" block under one front wheel and all the tires stay on the ground. I now have 250 over 400s on the front with 30 over 35 on the valving. Drove it around some today, the trooper feels alot different.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sounds pretty neat. You'll be ready for Baja. I'm still working on redoing my rear suspension. I was lookin at the front fender and at first glance it looks like the fender could be trimmed where it goes under the frame tubing and bolts on. It could then be repositioned above the tubes and anchored to new welded on tabs. Looks like a couple of inches could be gained without loosing any of the fenders outreach.

I have planed for some time now to redesign the fenders and make them out of fibreglass. I'll make them higher, probably 4" or 5" higher in the rear and wider to help catch slinging dirt. I'll probably not get to it until spring. It does require making molds but once made, it's fairly easy to also pull parts for others.

Looking forward to seeing your pics.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

sorry guys, no pictures tonight, Don,t know what i am going to do about the fenders yet, I also looked at moving the fender up, but i still think i would hit if i did something bad. i thought of triming the backs and just moving them in, but damn these things can throw the mud. I like your idea of the fender with a bump in it where the tire comes up. When i drove it yesterday the susp felt good, the front would dive when you hit the brakes, and rise when you were on the throutle. Just setting still and turning the wheel the corners would dive so i think i am close with the springs, I still have to see how the shock valving does on the bumps. I think i am going to the new years race at plaster city so i should know then. Hopefuly i get off earlier tommorow so i can post pictures.

2619665190104282158YqBURG_th.jpg 2276660330104282158fNuxmW_th.jpg 2724677100104282158gIifQT_th.jpg 2059629230104282158EDKmgo_th.jpg 2434824960104282158mQuvlz_th.jpg

Click on picture to open album

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Kinarfi has help me out and posted the pictures in trooperfolk. He voiced consern about the cross bar no longer being there. In the pictures you notice that the top of the shock tower is not supported side to side. What i plan on doing is after i get the storagebox built behind the shock tower i am going to run braces back to the outside corners of the dash from the shock tower to keep the tower and frame from wanting to bend back or sideways, making the frame stronger. I will use 3/4" tubing as to keep the weight down.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wish i had more time, i could probably make up some kits that some one else could weld on. You have to be carefull because these joyner tube frames are not square. What i did on the front was make sure i was at the bottom of the susp stroke, when i rased the front of the car up to get the old shocks off. get the bolts loose so they come out free . You have to turn the steering both ways with the front wheels of the ground, feel the axle as it rotates and make sure there is no bind, keep raising the frame with the wheels just blocked off the ground untill you feel the axle start to bind, lower the frame back down until it is free. you have to have the steering turned all the way to one side, and than check the other side. Once you have this done you take the lower shock mount off and weld new tabs with 1/2" holes the distance of the shock hiem and 2 spacers. mount the lower shock mount and then start fabing the top mounts. You have to cut the upper mount out. The pictures show how i did it and that is plenty strong. If you can wait awhile i can probably make the upper shock mount set-up. I don,t think it matters what shock you use as long as it is a good shock. The 2 spring set up is the way to go, 8" tender with a 10 primary spring. The trooper becomes a totaly different car. I took it out yesterday and it climbs better than it did before and we know how these things climb. There is no comparison with the ride, The wife and her boobs are very happy.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Took the trooper out this week-end for a short ride, drove into some rough stuff pretty hard and it took it fine, very pleased with how it feels. I am starting to hinge the hood now and build a storage box. I had quite a mess going redoing the wiring and re running the hydrolic lines to get the area behind the shock tower clear so that there was nothing above the frame, so that the storage box will be able to set flat. I am also thinking of putting a reserve tank up there to, a small one for those long rides.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Talking about a shock and spring package, I have given the numbers off what i have. I need to get some hours on my set-up to see what it feels like once the springs take a set. They always give up a little after they have been used. Let me be the ginny pig so you don"t end up buying extra springs or having to get your shocks revalved. What i have is very close, but we might be able to make it beter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, i finally got the weights on the trooper T 2, seems like i have my own little post going here, Hope i am not offending anyone. Anyway i weighed each axle buy them selfs. front axle first, then the back. I had seprate scales.

left front 380lbs right front 380lbs

left rear 480lbs right rear 520lbs

Total weight 1,760

The way i weighed the car, put both front tires on separate scales and then jacked the rear of the car up in the center so the rear springs could not put any cross weight in the car. Did the oppsite for the rear. The car was full of fuel with no extras on it. No spare tire. No one sitting in the car. When you sit in the car, I am 6' and weigh 210bs. 105lbs went to the back and 105lbs went to the front. The cars are balanced better than what i though. I will have the scales here this week-end, if i have time i will try to get un susp weights.

GO SAN DIEGO CHARGERS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, i finally got the weights on the trooper T 2, seems like i have my own little post going here, Hope i am not offending anyone. Anyway i weighed each axle buy them selfs. front axle first, then the back. I had seprate scales.

You may feel like you're posting alone, but I bet EVERYONE is reading and taking notes, I am!

Keep the photos coming.

Jeff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

finally got to put some miles on the trooper, the front felt pretty good, I think it is alittle soft on the tender spring. I am going to pull the 350 out of the rear and put it in front to replace the 300. That will give me 350 over 400 on the front, the shock valving felt good so i will leave it alone. The rear is to soft, i am going to get 450"s and put them over the 600 in back. The 350"s arent really doing much, when you pitch the car it wants to lay over, so it starts steering itself, the back needs to be stiffer. Also i am going to stiffen the rebound on the shock, it wants to buck when you are hitting the whoops, not bad but it is doing it. The shocks are 100% better than stock, the ride is very good but it can be better. I hit some spots i would have been on my lid before.

I also had a lower ball joint come out while climbing a very steep hill. My son was watching and said it came out just as i started up the hill. How the cv joint did not come apart i do not know because i was reving in 2nd gear all the way up the hill. What i noticed when i looked to see what happened is the shank on the bolt does not go through the grove on the ball joint. The bolt was still tight but the bolt is not big enough to lock the end in. I am going to drill mine out to the next size bigger bolt, run the bolt all the way through with a nut on the outher end so the shank of the bolt is in the grove. If this happened while going fast you could find yourself in not to good a spot.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

  • Similar Topics

    • By Dan_Lockwood
      Sorry for the novel...
      I'm new to the forum and new to the side-by-side world. This is my first post.  A bit of background about me.  My dad was a mechanic all his life and he taught me what I was willing to learn at the time.  In the mid 60's we had a marina on a small lake in Mid-Michigan area that also service many surrounding lakes.  I was the mechanic.  We sold Polaris, Johnson and Arctic Cat snowmobiles along with Johnon and Mercury outboards, boats and pontoon boats.  We also sold Bridgestone motorcycles very early on.  While going to college I raced on the Ski Doo Michigan Distributor's race team out of Clare MI.  That was the first year for the factory race sleds, the Blizzards!  Anything with a motor and or wheels, I'm all ears and eyes.  I retired as a design engineer for the an O.E.M. making plastic production equipment.  Also served a stint as a Chevy/Pontiac service manager back in the 70's and 80's.  Oh, I retired the end of '19.  We had moved from MI to MO for my work and after 20 years there and retiring, we moved back to Mid-Michigan.  Nuff said I believe.  
      I just purchased a 2021 Coleman UT400 that has 320 hrs. and 1420 miles.
      I have multiple questions/issues.
      1.  The wet clutch appears to be toast.  It will rev up high and just barely move.  Got one ordered, complete kit.  Shouldn't be a big job.
      2.  This UT400 has a bad smoking habit and it think it's bad for its health...   It not only smokes on startup but continues to smoke until it's shut off.  I brought it home in my 22' enclosed car trailer yesterday and by the time we shoved and drove it into the trailer, the smoke was SOOOOO BAD, that we could hardly see out the back of the trailer.  Valve seals usually stop smoking after it starts up and all the residual oil has been burnt up.  Rings on the other hand seem to smoke the entire time the motor is running.  I've read that some of the Hisun motors have had suspect oil rings.  If this thing is smoking that badly from rings, I have no idea what the bore is like until it comes apart.  For the money, I'd rather have a complete cylinder/piston replacement kit and just be done with it.  Also put in new valve seals at the same time. 
      Thoughts?  I can't think of anything other than the two items mentioned above that could cause this.  It's not like in the old days with a PCV sticking and sucking oil up from the valve cover area and feeding it back into the intake to be burned.  I think that with the above swapping of parts, that "should" take care of my smoking motor...
      Just how is the oil level checked, dip stick screwed in or just stuck in the hole without screwing it in?
      I also cannot believe that in these days of engineering marvels, that a company, or many companies, would design a motor with a wet clutch using the same lubrication system as the motor.  Trans I can see, not much wear particles from the trans.  But with all the junk flying off the clutch shoes and then recirculating into the lubrication system, hopefully the filter will strain the big chunks out prior to being pressurized and forced back into the bearings and cylinder area.  Just doesn't make good engineering sense to me.
      3.  I see no issues setting the toe-in, but these little guys do not, from what I can find, any way to adjust camber or caster in anyway.  I'm guessing some of the larger more expensive side-by-sides have the lower A arms with threaded ends at the frame to turn to adjust the camber/caster.  I may elect to take my lower control arms off and cut the ends off and weld in adjustment bungs and rod ends to replace the stock units.  Am I missing something on the available suspension adjustments or lack there of???  Right now the right front tire is really tipped in at the top compared to the left side, also has a large amount of toe-out.  The toe-out will not be an issue to correct.
      4.  How do you change the clock from 24 hour to 12 hour?
      I'm sure I'll have more questions as I get deeper into my new toy.
      Also, it came with a 60" plow and I hope to use this to keep my quite large driveway clear this winter.  I do have the luxury to do multiple plows during a storm to keep the level of snow down a bit.  Yes, I know, I should have bought a larger rig, but with the issues this has, I got it at a very good price.
      Thoughts and suggestions appreciated.
      Thanks, Dan
    • By JOYNERPARTSGUY
      I'm thinking about parting out my 2 Joyner's.  Both have less than 500 miles.   I would also consider selling whole.  I have titles for both and have owned them since new.   Located in northwest Florida.   I'll be in Gatlinburg , TN for Christmas if someone needs a heavy part delivered     Trooper engine has rust on the cylinders and probably won't turn over at this point due to Florida humidity.  The sand spider has a broken input shaft in the rear end, so it needs a new (cheap) input shaft and seal.   It hasn't been cranked in a couple years.  Both are complete.
    • By Lionel
      I purchased a new Landmaster EV lithium. I have only had the vehicle for 5 days. From nearly the first day, it intermittently would not start, either forward or reverse. After waiting a few minutes, it will go in reverse, but not forward. After a few more minutes, it will go forward. This happened several times over three days, and then it had a bigger problem. It would not go forward at all, and I had to drive it in reverse for 400 feet. About 30 minutes later, it could go forward. I called the dealer and told them to come and get it. Does anyone out there have this model? Are you having similar problems? 
    • By paraord
      Hey guys,

      While installing the High lifter lift kit in my 2015 Mule 4010 I nicked the piston, strut rod, the shiney rod in the middle that I cant remember the name (no coffee yet this morning). I knew the nick was deep enough to eventually tear up the seal and she'd let loose. Well 3 months or so down the road here we are, its blown out. 
       
      My question is how do I know which strut I have? I see 2 listed in the exploded 45023-1006 and the 45023-7503. The difference is the spring rate or K value. Seeing as I have high lifter springs does it matter the K value? And if that's the case can I use any of the 45023 prefix struts from various other models? 

      Thanks all,
       
      Andrew
    • Dream Car Giveaway
    • By Sommer Wildes
      TLDR (too long didn't read) in blue for quick scanning
      Hey all! I'm new to the Side-by-side/UTV world. We own a smallish farm and decided to go with the 2021 Tracker 800LE Crew. We like the seating and the ride is smooth. However as a newbie I have some questions that maybe some of you longtime side-by-side/UTV owners can help with. We're still in the "break-in" period and it seems that after 30 min or less of driving the dash area gets super hot. You can feel the heat waves coming off the floorboard by your feet and my phone sitting in the little hole (where a radio might go) felt like I left it in the hot sun for too long. The glovebox was also way too hot. 
       
      So the question is, is this normal, or should I start checking engine coolant and filters? We literal have had it a day. I have read forums and looked up info and can't find anyone mentioning this issue. I just don't want to burn the thing up before we've even put it through it's paces ya know!
       
      Thanks for any help!
  • Gallery Images

×
×
  • Create New...