Jump to content

Running Rough, overheating and hello :)


Recommended Posts

Hey guys, first would just like to say after reading through most of the posts here that this seems like a real good forum

with alot of friendly, helpful people which is great to see and would like to say thanks to the people who pointed me here. Cheers guys.

I purchased my 09 Trooper T2 about 2 months ago and finally took it out in the bush last weekend with a heap of other guys on bikes.

I found something quite amusing as the day progressed, to start with the guys were all sorta giving me a hard time about the trooper with

smart remarks such as "sure you dont want to just help out around here on the farm carting some hay bails around" then as the day went

by and the trooper made it through some of the roughest tracks, rutts, hills and river crossings they all stoped there remarks and all showed

some real interest in it. B) As if im gona let them have a drive hahahhaha

I did have a couple of problems however, the aircleaner blocked up BAD and i dusted the engine, now I have had it running today and I know its

early days but it has not shown any signs as yet of valve or ring damage so fingers crossed. I modified the air intake so it is now positioned in the

cab after seeing the mod here hopfully not to late.

Ever since I first started the engine she has had a intermittent miss at idle and has just got worse, now I might be a bit premature in posting as I

havent changed plugs or checked the leads I just thought I would see if anyone else has had this problem.

She also has been running over half tempature and I checked the mounting of the fan and spaced it out about an inch so it uses more of the rad

core which has helped but still runs over half, should I try another sensor?

I noticed that the drive shaft from the box to the front diff was missing the grease nipples on the uni joins and the grease after it warmed up started

to throw out, so if anyone has purchased a new one make sure you check that out.

Has anyone had any problems with there seat webbing coming out, I had to strip my seat and bend all of the clips after one hard ride.

Should i maybe drink less beer or is this common lol.. Please even if it isnt some one lie and tell me its happened to them. :rolleyes:

Do you guys mind if I post in some older topics? I know some forums frown upon reviving older threds.



Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shop battery chargers at ChromeBattery.com

It's OK to post in older topics, I do.

Seats, no problem but we are both on the smaller side & very light drinkers. LOL!

Sooner of later the front drive shaft is going to be a problem. There are NO U-joint grease fittings but there is a single fitting on on the support bearing between the seats under the cover.

Temp runs middle of the gauge and climbs with max RPMs. I slow down when it climbs too much, who needs to run 60+ mph in the dirt all the time!

No miss here. I would talk to my dealer, soon as you are still under warranty.

Don't like the dust and stay out of it; also am solo riding most of the time. I go out after a rainstorm most of the time, YES we get big time monsoon thunder storms here in AZ. Another solution is being the leader. SOOOO, no problem here. I was looking at a better grade air cleaner element at the Speed Shop last Friday.

Good luck,

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The uni joints at the front and rear do actually have grease nipple holes in the caps which is

where the grease was coming out from, the holes initially were covered with paint, i will see

if they are threaded tomorrow and let you know.

The temp even at idle is over half, again tomorrow I will check the raidiator at the inlet, outlet

and down the cores with a heat gun to see if there is anything wrong.

Its been running a little bit wierd ever since i got it, lol its like me MOODY :P

Today when I took it for a run I noticed when I gave it full throttle in 3rd or 4th from around 2500rpm

that it was really lacking in power and then all of the sudden it was like hitting band in a 2 stroke the power

was there which it hasnt been like before.

I think I will take you advice and get in contact with the dealer, unfortunatly the dealer is close to 1000km

away which is going to make this process quite hard.. Oh well life isnt ment to be easy... not for me anyway :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hello Quacks first welcome. I run hot most of the time I tend to run it pretty hard and have maxed out the gauge and had the light on a few times. I moved my rad up on the rear of the safari rack and it helped a lot but as rocmoc pointed out is now vulnerable in a roll over. And Joyner says the sending unit is not calibrated to the gauge right but I have never checked it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey, I had the same thing with the u joints and yes the holes are threaded but are a fine thread so you need a short fine threaded nipple or the hammer in type but definitely put in nipples and keep them greased the u-joints are cheap and seem to crap out. as for the lack of power mine seems that way too around 4000 rpm it kicks ass right? the motor is a 1L and aren't known for being torque monsters as far as I know. someone correct me if im wrong.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi Quacks and welcome to the group. Your right, this is a great bunch of people. There are some real smart and clever people on here. One thing I really like is not seeing any bashing EVER. Be sure you apply filter oil to your air filter, my Trooper had none when I got it from the dealer. Fine dust will get through the dry filter. As far as your missing problem goes, I would call Joyner directly seeing as your dealer is so far away. I've never talked to them but read from others that they are real good about helping. You might want to download the owners and parts manual from their site too. It's so so but you still should have it.


When you spaced out your radiator, did you close the gap around the outter peremeter with foam or whatever? On mine the fan inside shroud was real long. Stock it was only 3/16" away from the radiator. I not only moved my radiator out but also cut about, If I remember correctly, 3/4" off the shroud. There are 2 different shrouds. Mine was long, the Troopers at my dealers were about 3/4" shorter so maybe they caught this problem. The members here have done a lot of different things to their Troopers. You will find a lot of great mods and fixes if you go back as far as you can. There are a few things that are real safty issues that should be fixed before any more driving.

Good luck and again welcome :D


Link to comment
Share on other sites

on the problem with the seats, we have one that has just been used for test drives and when I had the seat up to clean, noticed that 4 straps had come loose. Looks like a bad design to me, the clips on the straps go straight up and I think they should have been on the top of the bar. Called our rep. and he sent a whole new seat.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought it was a dry filter too. Then I heard of someone who damaged their engine because dirt got past the filter. So I pulled mine and looked. Sure enough there was a trace of very very fine dust powder on the walls of the tube just after the filter. Have not noticed any difference in preformance but immediately went out and purchased a nice big double foam filter and oiled it real heavy with sticky filter oil. When I mentioned it to my dealer, he said "oh yha, they need to be oiled to work" I'm thinking, thanks a lot for telling me now and why wasn't it oiled when I received it to begin with. That IS his responsibility when preping it. Is also read the complete owners manual and it didn't say anything about oiling the filter or I missed it but don't think so.


Link to comment
Share on other sites

The way I oil my filter is

1 dip in gas to break down the oil

2 wash the gas and oil and dirt out using dish soap and a garden hose and rinse well

3 blow air through it with my shop vac and suck air through it too

4 after it's dry, dip in clean gas that has sticky filter oil in it and let it air dry, rotate a little at first.

5 Snorkel it and get it up out of the dirt. 2884155420104110397fCkKcQ_th.jpg


Link to comment
Share on other sites

Oh well that would explain why the fine dust is getting past. Yes I do think when they did the pre delivery checks that the air filter should have been oiled.

Well glad that is sorted out, cheers.

Kinarfi that sounds like a real good way to evenly coat the filter with oil, will give your method a go for sure.

Lenny I didnt fill the gap around the fan as it was quite small however I suppose it would make a difference, I have some thick foam sealing tape that

i think will close the gap nice so will get that sorted also.

Going to check out the steering safty issues and im looking into getting some bigger tyres to give her some more legs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have always cleaned the filters in the race cars, or the cars we run filters on with simple green, I spray it with simple green, then hose it from the inside out and let air dry.

Well I guess i will pick up a can of K&N oil, I think one of those foam prefilters would be good also, maybe an aftermarket filter that doesent have an open so all ir goes thru the foam pre filter

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By Nickie Watts
      I have a Hisun Strike 1000 I have been trying to get going, it has only 39 hours on it, so I can only assume it has been sitting for a long time.
      The issue is it is losing spark to both coils after 20-30 seconds of running, doesn't matter if it's WOT or Idle, it will shut down.  What sends signal to the coils to fire? It has a crank sensor, I was thinking a CDI box, but I have not found one of those on the machine.
      The rear end was busted on it when I got it, So I ordered a new one and installed it only to run into this problem. I can only imagine the problem has happened over it sitting so long and not being driven.
      I originally thought it was a fuel problem, so I checked the injectors, throttle body, o2 sensors. Discovered the heating element in one of the o2 sensors was bad, so ordered both and also replaced both injectors just to be sure, then discovered it is only losing spark. 
    • By SteveMO

      I live on 11 acres that demands a bit of maintenance, and co-own a large farm a couple of hours away that I hunt on (professionals do the farming).   My mowing/brush control/trail maintenance duties are handled by a 57" rough cut mower (Kunz brand), and I also drag logs and pull sprayers and seeders for food plots and such.
      I've been using a  pair of ATV's for decades to handle this work - a 750 for when I need real power (or need both machines at the same time when I have help) and a 500 cc with fixed rear axle for most duties.

      Some of the places I need to work are VERY rough, and very three-dimensional, with steep ups and downs and some side-hilling I've learned the hard way not to try with my independent rear suspension 750, but handle with ease with my fixed rear suspension 500.

      I've decided I want to sell the 750 and replace it with a UTV that I hope to use as my main workhorse.  If anyone makes a working UTV that fits my specs that's what I'm gonna do.  This is an all-work machine, I don't do any recreational riding so don't care about things like top speed.

      So looking for advice on what models might handle what I'm looking for:

      Gotta have:
      2 passenger (1 row)
      selectable 4wd
      Power steering
      Selectable gearing (not CVT)
      Power-assisted dump bed
      Engine cooling adequate for all-day slow-speed work in the summertime.  Like towing a 700lb mower at 4mph all day in 100° weather)
      Beefy tow rating, including tonque weight.  Nobody ever mentions tongue weight because that exposes how crappy independent rear suspension is for towing safely in rough terrain.

      Really want:
      Selectable locking diff
      Fixed rear axle (Isolates tongue weight from rear suspension.  Holds more stable & consistent center of gravity than IRS over side-slopes and other complex terrain, and keeps geometry and suspension response consistent over wide range of tongue-weight of towed loads)
      Slow speed cruise control (Factory option or aftermarket, covering at least 4mph - 10mph. For calibrated spraying and controlled mowing speed.
      Muffler designed for quiet operation for comfortable all-day use, and to minimize disturbance for getting to hunting grounds.  Not concerned about normal motor noise, but don't want something specifically piped to "sound fun".

      Any advice on brands or models I'm most likely to have luck with?
    • By Greg Kilgore
      We all know summer is hot inside the cabs of our SXS. So I've rigged up a couple of fans to help cool down the cab.
      I didn't want to drill the fan's "support rails" into the ROPS (Roll Over Protection System), aka roll bars. So I used water clamps to hold them in place. 
      I just need to replace the wires I ran with bigger gauge. Then finish the wiring to switches, relays, and battery. But the hardest part. The actual mounting of the fans is complete. Also just in case anyone plans on doing this. I may have to only use 1 fan in the middle instead on 2. Due the the draw on the battery.
      The fans are 12", 12V 80W. So I'm figured they were 6.7 amps apiece. Used the WAVe formula to get unknown values Watts=Amps*Volts then solve for unknown. I know the watts and volts from sticker on fan. So just used above formula to get amps. So a 7 amp fuse should be OK and a 10 amp fuse will be good. 
      So pulling 14 amps from the battery all day may be too much for the charging system to keep up with. And I haven't even installed the radio yet. So I will have to test and let you know.
      See pics below.

    • By Bill Hughes
      Looking for tips on the engine oil change .  First oil change is coming up in a month. Any tips from Buck 450 owners? 
    • By NicholasNWM09
      Hello Everyone,
      COOL NEW Product Alert! 
      A company called NEW Wire Marine or NEW Wire has Badass custom panels for UTV, Buggy/Hunting trucks. From Fully wired switch panels with laser etched rockers with backlights in 5 different colors, to just parts like voltmeters, phone, USB and 12 v chargers. Rockers can be printed, or custom laser etched rockers and they even have sleek labeled pushbuttons. They are a first-class company with a great knowledgeable staff and outstanding customer service. Switches are based on 12v or 24v circuits and they also have marine grade wire and connectors, which is perfect for waterproofing your system!
      Go check them out!
      Check out the websites : https://newwiremarine.com/ and https://rockerswitchpros.com
  • Gallery Images

  • Create New...