aefron88

The other option is some cabling and free software called "Hud ECU Hacker". I have a post in another thread about code reading that explains what you need and how to set it up. Once you get it going: -Click on the "Control" tab -Click the "reset EPROM" button This will reset the ECU back to factory and clear any codes. The software is also a way to further troubleshoot sensor issues, as you can see what the sensors are reading in the software. After resetting the ECU the next troubleshooting step, if you're still having issues, would be to see what your coolant temp sensor is reading. If it is failed or way off it can cause issues with idling due to the fuel mixture being too rich or lean. It is a good possibility since you only have issues idling at certain ambiant temps.

Interesting. the shift shaft and driveshaft are under where the secondary is also. I wonder if the shifter adjustment is off, and its popping slightly out of gear, and then popping back in? I'm thinking maybe the grind is it slightly out of gear, and the clunk is it popping into gear under load. Not sure which model exactly you're talking about? Is it the console shifter or a dash mounter shifter?

Is the tensioner wound up and installed properly? does there seem to be good tension on the chain when installed? How are you determining initial timing? and how are you determining it has jumped?

sky pilot, it would be helpful if you could post updates on your first thread instead of random threads, and starting multiple posts in different sections. when multiple people are posting issues in the same thread it gets confusing trying to track whats been done/symptoms etc. It also gives a linear timeline of whats happening instead of having to chase posts down.

E means error code, not electrical. All the low 200's codes are having to do with fuel & fuel injection. 201 is injector #1 circuit error. There is no 200 listed in the coleman/hisun/delphi literature. you can download the Delphi mt-05 manual online, but 90% of it is already tacked onto the end of the hisun service manuals anyway. The ecu is a Delphi mt-05. There is no flashing. There is a way to read the parameters and codes using $25 in cabling and free software. I have a thread below that explains the process. You can also adjust some parameters, but there shouldn't be a need to do that it should run off the shelf. If there's backpressure coming out the intake I would suspect the timing is way off or the valve lash is too tight and the intake valve is staying open thru the compression stroke. I have seen a number of people have timing chain tension issues so it's possible that it's skipped several teeth and is off timing. If you pull the plug, and the fan cover you can spin it over by hand to TDC and check the valve lash easily, so that's where I'd start. You can see the cam from there so it should be obvious if it's way out of time.

Are you the same as user "Illbethere" with two different threads going or is this on the wrong thread? I don't see e200 in any service manuals, but 201 is an injector circuit malfunction

Ok so it has spark. Next up fuel and compression. Fuel: Do you have fuel in the tank? When you turn the key to on (don't start it) do you hear the fuel pump run for 5 seconds then turn off? Should be a hum from under the passenger seat area. If those are both good pull the fuel line from the injector. It is right on top of engine. With the key switched on you should get a good fuel flow from that. If that's good reconnect it and remove the injector. Ground the spark plug to prevent inadvertent sparks. Hold a rag over the eng of the injector and have someone crank the motor over. You should get sprays out of the injector. Compression: Check the engine compression by installing a compression tester in the spark plug hole. Ground out the sparkplug again, and crank the motor over for a few seconds. If the motor is in good shape you should get 150+psi. Below 120 psi it likely won't run at all. If the compression is lowI would check the valve lash adjustment, if that's ok I would add little oil to the cylinder and check compression again to see if the rings might be the issue. Tools: You can make a spark plug grounding tool with a bolt, a ring terminal, some short wire, and an alligator clip. The bolt goes in the spark plug boot, ring terminal attaches the wire to the bolt, and alligator clip attaches the wire to a metal spot on the engine. This will prevent damage to the coil from having to jump a long gap, and prevent sparking when working with atomized fuel checking the injector. You can buy a cheap compression tester from Amazon or harbor freight. Let me know where you get to and we can further troubleshoot as you narrow down any issues.

First have you checked all the fuses are intact and the battery is charged?

you should hear the fuel pump coming on when you turn the key to the "on" position (stop before you get to start). listen for a light humming noise that should go away after 5 seconds. i'm not sure the pinout orientation, but yes the orientation of a relay matters. there is a wiring diagram in the downloads for the 400 which should be the same as far as EFI stuff. You can bench test the relay with a multimeter and some aligator clips and a 9v battery if you can find the pinout. Are the f4 and f5 fuses good? Do you hear the fuel pump running?

I have a post over on the coleman forum explaining how to get the Delphi code scanner working for around $25 in cabling, and free software.

So you said you have spark, new fuel, fuel pulsing from the injector. What did you get for compression? This will confirm the valves are ok, rings are in decent shape, etc. You could also spray some carb cleaner, a small amount of fuel, etc down the spark plug hole, put the plug back and try to start it. If it starts briefly and dies that would point to a fuel issue. Once you confirm compression I second checking the timing chain based on the symptoms. Yes the crank position sensor will set the spark timing, but it has no way of telling the valves are in the right position. I have read of a fair number of timing chain tensioner issues, even on relatively low hour engines.

Like a car stereo? Most people run small Bluetooth soundbars from what I've seen, although it might be hard to hear over the engine when driving. You could find a spot for a car stereo. But you would also need to find space for speakers, which would be tough.

The is always one other option...😂

Other than that all I see are the motorcycle Dr ones. You could also try hisun or coleman but it would likely be more than $20 shipped and a lot slower.

Is this the right part? $10.99 w/ free shipping

The first thing i would do is reset the ECU and see if that fixes it. Start the engine, run it up to redline in neutral (it has a rev limiter and wont over rev) Hold it there for 5 seconds, and turn the ignition off, with the gas pedal still down. Wait 15 seconts, release the pedal and restart as normal. See if it idles properly after that, and starts ok in colder weather. LMK after you've done that if it fixes it, or you still have issues and I can walk you thru further troubleshooting.

So you are getting power to all the fuses (12.3v between the fuse and the neg batt terminal)?

Ok so just to recap since yours isn't the original post: You shut it off and it made an "air escaping or winding noise" and now it wont display anything or start correct? Lights don't work with the key on? I'm trying to figure out what the noise might have been but blanking on anything. Have you checked the battery voltage? Should be at least 11.8V. From there I would open the fusebox (little black box with 4 screws holding the cover) check that all the fuses are getting the same as the batt voltage (check between the fuse terminal and the neg batt terminal). Then check that all fuses are intact and not blown.

Sounds like you have a pretty large short. I'm not familiar with that model so this will be real general: I would hook a voltmeter to the batt and start removing fuses and replacing one at a time. That should help to track down the short circuit. When the vtage pops back to "disconnected batyery voltage" you have figured out which circuit the short is on. Once you figure out which circuit it's on you can go from there. I would recommend using an ammeter in series, but if the draw is dragging the batt down to 11v instantly it's probably well in excess of the 10 amps most meters can handle. Any chance the manual has an electrical diagram in it?

Its very possible there was a slight imperfection causing the issue too. Orings are very sensitive to leaking if nicked or if it just doesnt sit right. Or could be a slight imperfection in the old bolt that caused it to sit just a little off. Fingers crossed and let us know how it looks in october.

It's unlikely that the teflon tape did anything useful. Teflon tape doesnt seal, and almost every pipe dope sold dosent seal either (there are a few specialty exceptions). The concept of teflon tape is that it allows the threads to slide more easily. It is only needed in a tapered fitting. In a tapered fitting, such as NPT the further you thread the fittings together, the tighter the seal. This is why you use teflon/dope on say piping in your house. The drain plug bolt, in this case, is a straight thread so tightening further doesnt cause the threads to seal any tighter. This is why the o-ring is there in the first place. The o-ring is the only thing that really seals, as oil can seep right past the threads, it will seep past the teflon too.

Steve, I dont believe cliffy is around posting much anymore as I believe he sold his SxS due to health issues. Does your HS400 smoke under specific conditions? heavy load, startup, etc? or just totally random? If its sometimes on startup you may have a dripping fuel injector. If its more random I would lean towards the sticking ring theory. If you think it might be a sticking ring due to sludge/carbon I have had good luck on an older automotive engine using a product called Kreen. Its made by the makers of Kroil, and you can only order it off their website. Anyway the trick is to put about an ounce down the spark plug hole and let it sit for a day or so. It will slowly drip past the rings and clean out carbon & sludge as it goes. Once the day is up crank the motor over with the plug out to get any remaining liquid out, and then reinstall and start it up. You want to do an oil change afterwards as it is a pretty strong commercial solvent. Might be worth trying before doing a whole top end teardown anyway.

I believe the HF ones come with a plug that matches their winches so yo would have to disassemble it and figure out which wire was which to make it work. There are a dozen plus sub $20 choices on amazon that come bare wire that would be easier. No disassembly, and the wires come labeled as to function. If you grab a set of crimp "bullet connectors" and a crimping tool you can install it and still be able to switch back to the factory setup by reconnecting the old wires for the plug in a couple minutes.

I don't think cliffyk posts here anymore due to gthing rid of his HS400 after some medical issues. I don't see that particular remote available, but looking on amazon there are tons of other similar ones available in the $20 range. Hooking it up you will need to be able to splice some wires or crimp some terminals. The winch control relay is under the front hood towards the top middle. It's a little square box with wires going onto the terminals. The remote winch controller needs power and a ground, as well as a connection for in and out. you should be able to disconnect the wires in the back of the socket under the dash and connect there. See diagram below. You will need to connect the ground wire on the new controller to a solid chassis ground.

I'm not specifically familiar with the 250's however... Likely if there's oil in the air box the oil level in the engine is way too high. Check the dipstick and see where it's at. If it is that high it's probably worth replacing the spark plug and cleaning the air filter as both will likely have gotten oil on them and may be causing further iissues.you may find oil weeping out other spots too. I believe I have read that the "newer" 250's have a safety governor that isn't disableable as they're primarily marketed towards kids, so that may be the 25mph limit. Not sure exactly what year that started.