Quantcast
Jump to content

Shock revalve & spring adjustment


rocmoc

Recommended Posts

I am having my new Fox shocks re-valved next week, one free re-valving came with the purchase. I pulled the shocks off today and took the Trooper for a ride without the shocks. Keep in mind I released all N2 pressure in the Joyner Coil-over shocks that I am using for the springs only. I was surprised the diff was so small. You could feel a small increase in the small bumps action but not that bad. Same with the big rebound going thu a large dip. Mid-range seem to have not changed. But overall did not feel quite as solid/secure/safe. I have back off on the spring ride height/tension on the spring trying to soften the ride. Yes I know the spring rate control the softness but It will release some. I am going to back off a bunch more on the spring height/tension as the change/feel has been almost nothing so far.

The shocks. I am going to have them softened by 30%. Just so you know, when you change by more than 10% the entire shock is changed thu the entire shock stroke. 10% or less they make a simple washer change that only effects the top end of the stroke.

Since I have driven Lenny's Trooper I have a good comparison. His is much softer than mine and has much much more sway when turning. I have yet made any adjustments to the front and you can not do one without effecting the other. Will have the Shocks back by the end of next week and reinstalled by the following week. Will report the results. I am also going to take a BIG swing at backing off the tension on the springs, rear & front. Let me say tho my trooper is already the best handling 4X4 I have had, I could live with it as it is.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am having my new Fox shocks re-valved next week, one free re-valving came with the purchase. I pulled the shocks off today and took the Trooper for a ride without the shocks. Keep in mind I released all N2 pressure in the Joyner Coil-over shocks that I am using for the springs only. I was surprised the diff was so small. You could feel a small increase in the small bumps action but not that bad. Same with the big rebound going thu a large dip. Mid-range seem to have not changed. But overall did not feel quite as solid/secure/safe. I have back off on the spring ride height/tension on the spring trying to soften the ride. Yes I know the spring rate control the softness but It will release some. I am going to back off a bunch more on the spring height/tension as the change/feel has been almost nothing so far.

The shocks. I am going to have them softened by 30%. Just so you know, when you change by more than 10% the entire shock is changed thu the entire shock stroke. 10% or less they make a simple washer change that only effects the top end of the stroke.

Since I have driven Lenny's Trooper I have a good comparison. His is much softer than mine and has much much more sway when turning. I have yet made any adjustments to the front and you can not do one without effecting the other. Will have the Shocks back by the end of next week and reinstalled by the following week. Will report the results. I am also going to take a BIG swing at backing off the tension on the springs, rear & front. Let me say tho my trooper is already the best handling 4X4 I have had, I could live with it as it is.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

I'm curious if you use front wheel spacers on your Trooper; and if so, did they make any change in the ride? Could I ask what specs are the correct ones for aftermarket shocks? I will be ordering shocks in the near future and am a bit perplexed as to what I need. I'm also looking for a "cushy" ride. Not alot of jumping; but want it to be able to handle it if I find myself flying off a cliff. :blink:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am having my new Fox shocks re-valved next week, one free re-valving came with the purchase. I pulled the shocks off today and took the Trooper for a ride without the shocks. Keep in mind I released all N2 pressure in the Joyner Coil-over shocks that I am using for the springs only. I was surprised the diff was so small. You could feel a small increase in the small bumps action but not that bad. Same with the big rebound going thu a large dip. Mid-range seem to have not changed. But overall did not feel quite as solid/secure/safe. I have back off on the spring ride height/tension on the spring trying to soften the ride. Yes I know the spring rate control the softness but It will release some. I am going to back off a bunch more on the spring height/tension as the change/feel has been almost nothing so far.

The shocks. I am going to have them softened by 30%. Just so you know, when you change by more than 10% the entire shock is changed thu the entire shock stroke. 10% or less they make a simple washer change that only effects the top end of the stroke.

Since I have driven Lenny's Trooper I have a good comparison. His is much softer than mine and has much much more sway when turning. I have yet made any adjustments to the front and you can not do one without effecting the other. Will have the Shocks back by the end of next week and reinstalled by the following week. Will report the results. I am also going to take a BIG swing at backing off the tension on the springs, rear & front. Let me say tho my trooper is already the best handling 4X4 I have had, I could live with it as it is.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Rocmoc, remember that sway amount is a function of 2 things, the spring rating and if using a tender spring, when the tender spring is taken out of play when it bottoms on its limiting collar. I'm finding that when I set it up so the sway is limited, say the Troopers top bar swinging out 2" (guessing), the softness of the suspension does not stay soft for enough travel to satisfy me. At first I was nervus to let it swing out more on hard turns fearing tipping. Now i'm allowing it to swing out maybe 4"-5" (guessing at that too) and find I can be softer for longer and the sway stops there and holds. Turns just as well without any indication of tipping. It just sort of hooks up in the turn. I can come into a turn hot and hard with braking and the rear tends to slide out but not too much, it's just right while the front holds solid. Kind of reminds me of when I raced motorcycles, scrambles. I would run wide open down the straight and then just before the turn let off the throttle the last minute and hit the compression release (not used anymore). The back would drift out and be just right at about 1/3 of the way through to set you up for powering the rest of the way through and out of the turn. My main springs are stiff enough to catch the big hits and the bump stops handle the ocassional extra heavy hits. I really need to go to 2" longer tender springs on the rear because I need a bit more travel without the springs going solid. Also I prefer to have the rear set a bit higher and I can do that with longer springs without stiffening the ride more. I'll also can gain a bit more soft travel if I desire. Right now I have 200# over 225# springs on the front. It too is better but here I also could use a longer tender and maybe even use 200 over 200 here, time will tell. Remember that when you have 200 over 200, the actual spring rate until the tender is out of play is 100# per inch. It then shifts to 200#. I'm getting real close and it is softer now then when you rode it. Good luck with yours.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Shocks, no one has come forward with the final ultimate performance setup. Everyone here is still experimenting, but these are performance guys pushing the limits. There are a couple of Vendors that say they have the setup, No Limits Powersports http://www.joyner-atv-utv.com/ and Silverbullet Motorsports http://silverbulletmotorsports.net/ for the everyday guy/couple looking to improve ride & reliability. Give them a call.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Spacers on the rear don't make any differance but on the front they do. On the rear you are not extending the effective swing arm length but on the front you are because the A-frames pivot from the sides. The bigger the spacer, the softer the ride gets and the more travel you get.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I don't know much about shocks, but I couldn't help but wonder if anyone has compared Rhino, Polaris, and Kawi aftermarket shock kits to what it would take to fit a Trooper? (On second thought; Our Troopers are about 300 lbs heavier) but could that be made closer with springs?

I think you will be better off not trying to adapt. The suspension setups being done buy the guys here will be the better way to go. I would wait a bit to see what Rocmoc ends up with. His setup would be doable for the average rider and provide a great ride. My setup of 14.5" of travel is much more involved. I'll be posting what I have done when I'm finished if you want to get more extreme but it's a lot of modification. Like Rocmoc said shocks from No Limit Powersports or Silverbullet Motorsports would be far better then stock.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah; the thing that I'm noticing is that some of the vendors offers Walker Evans shocks; and unless I'm not understanding it correctly (which is highly possible if not probable) ; then they are charging a price for "each" shock and from Walker Evans it's the same price for a pair. So I'm needing the stock specs to see if I can check in to Rancho, or Bilstien, or Fox. All of their websites have shocks for Yamaha, Polaris, and Kawasaki and I can't help but think we (Trooper owners) may use the same shock and a heavier spring. The long travel kits for the big 3 only have 6 inches of travel. I don't know what that would work out to as far as wheel travel at the end of the A arms and trailing arms? Again; I'm probably wrong on this; but if I don't ask; I may end up with the wrong shock at a higher price. :blink:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If your are bound to go it on your own; Fox, FOA & King are your choices. FOA has a shock sizing site but nearly takes an Engineer to understand. Easiest is work with Off Road Warehouse http://offroadwarehouse.com/contact . You can call the 800 # and ask for Nick or the shock guy. He is the shock guy and will work with you to make your purchase. Prices are very good, bought mine from them, & service is excellent. If you go thu them I would recommend Fox Shocks. I believe Flatbed also worked with Off Road Warehouse when he upgraded to Fox. Maybe Kinarfi will post how he purchased his FOA shocks. Of course Lenny blazed his own trail, LOL.

Forgot to mention, Shocks are the easy part. It is the springs that are a pain!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks guys. Hopefully some of the vendors will have it dialed in before long. Since Silverbullet and No Limits are also Joyner vehicle dealers; maybe they can come up with the perfect combo and settings. I hate it that ALL of the aftermarket vendors do not include Joyner in any of their services. Heck they even include Kubota (which isn'rt even a sport/performance vehicle) When i get my Trooper dialed in; I'm going hunting for Razors. The other 2 are no threat. (except for CanAm)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Spacers on the rear don't make any differance but on the front they do. On the rear you are not extending the effective swing arm length but on the front you are because the A-frames pivot from the sides. The bigger the spacer, the softer the ride gets and the more travel you get.

Lenny

What I said above is incorrect. Spacers on the front don't change the suspension and travel length. You would have to extend the A-frame arms to do that. Don't know what I was thinking, or rather not thinking.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm not sure I agree with you Lenny. I think you were right the first time. Although this is a crude drawing; this is the way i understand it. That due to a longer radius; the travel of the A arm also increases.

If you only had one A-frame rather then two and the axel went straight off the end then, the farther you went out with the wheel the more swing you would get. The wheel would also tip from in at the top when up and out when down. But the axel is parellel to the ground and stays that way through the arc. Now extend the axel out another 10" say or 10' for that matter and it still stays parellel to the ground and goes through the same swing. It's because you have 2 A-frames to hold the axel parellel to the ground that everything stays the same.The only way to increase the travel or leverage on teh spring is to lengthen the A-frames.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ohhhhhhh! Now I see what you mean. Yes; the spindle and the spacer are parellel to the ground. Thanks guys! Physics isn't my strong suit. :D

However; there would probably be a bit softer ride due to the force point being farther out from the pivot point I think. (Same as gripping a wrench up close to the nut rather than at the end where you can get more torque; or the use of a breaker bar)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Picked up my shocks yesterday. They are now revalved 35 - 55 from the factory 50 - 70. This is a touch softer than Lenny's at 40 - 60. Lenny does carry more weight in the rear, LOL! Siriusly, Lenny's rear corner weights are larger therefore requiring more damping. Our two Troopers should be pretty close to each other in damping. Now to work on the springs. I will install shocks & adjust springs Monday/Tuesday.

Also found out the cost for revalving is $27/shock. First one is free with purchase.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Picked up my shocks yesterday. They are now revalved 35 - 55 from the factory 50 - 70. This is a touch softer than Lenny's at 40 - 60. Lenny does carry more weight in the rear, LOL! Siriusly, Lenny's rear corner weights are larger therefore requiring more damping. Our two Troopers should be pretty close to each other in damping. Now to work on the springs. I will install shocks & adjust springs Monday/Tuesday.

Also found out the cost for revalving is $27/shock. First one is free with purchase.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Rocmoc,

Did you ever get out to test you new valving? Better? What spring combination did you finally end up with? Would you change anything? I am very interested because I am going to be installing new Fox 8.5" coilovers in the upcoming month or two, and I need to order springs. Your help is greatly appreciated.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi guys, I am new to this site, but i have been a dealer for joyner for over 4 years. I have installed about 6 complete sets of KING shocks on different troopers, and every customer has told me that it was the best money they ever spent.I run a turboed 800 sand viper with the Kings in the back and can tell you its day and night. King has several diferent combinations for the trooper. I highly recomend them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi guys, I am new to this site, but i have been a dealer for joyner for over 4 years. I have installed about 6 complete sets of KING shocks on different troopers, and every customer has told me that it was the best money they ever spent.I run a turboed 800 sand viper with the Kings in the back and can tell you its day and night. King has several diferent combinations for the trooper. I highly recomend them.

Welcome Mudslinger, glad you finally made it to the board. I have also used the Kings, they are a little pricey, but they do work well.

Jarrad

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By CYJSP2009
      Dear Joyner owners
      Any one who is looking for below Joyner parts please send email to casey from Leaf Asia  ( please send to [email protected] and cc to casey2leafasia.biz & [email protected])
      Currently, we have supply below parts: 
      1.  cv axles, cv rebuild kits, cv boots
      2.  Differentials and differential ring and pinion set
      3. Cables, 
      4. Brake parts
      5. Engine parts
      6. Other parts. 
      We will provide better price, close follow up ... 
      We can arrange productioni for parts that we can collect demands from customers  
      Have a good weekend
      Casey /  Leaf Asia 
      2023-11-17
       
    • By buckrub
      Hey guys! Newbie here. I'm an old man who's better with plowing a mule (4-legged kind) than these newfangled beasts. I, and a friend of mine, just bought new Coleman sxs and are having to finish the assembly. I've been reading on this site and I'm falling on the mercy of you experts. The only way I'm an expert is that an "ex" is a has been, and a spurt is a drip under pressure. LOL First off, the 2 buggies have no ignition switches. They seem to mount on the dash, not the opening in the steering wheel shaft cover, so we ordered new ones that are supposed to fit. They are 8 inches long, and have a 4-wired white plugin which is slightly rectangled when looking at the end of the plug. The trouble is there's nothing to plug into. There is a three-wire grey plug close enough to reach the four-wire plug, but of course, they are not compatible. 
      Secondly, the blinker, light, ect. unit on steering wheel just spins around when touched. I see no way in heaven or earth to secure it. I've looked at a diagram on the Powersports site, but can't detect how it mounted. Fellows I'd be so grateful for any help with this. Me and my mule will even plow your garden for free, for your help. LOL 
       
    • By Nathon S.
      I have a Bennche 700 EFI Bighorn. I’ve recently been unable to get it to start. After a little troubleshooting I realized my fuel pump was not pumping fuel. This weekend I emptied the gas and replaced it with new. I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel injector. I also replaced the battery, spark plug and made sure all my fuses and relays were good. I have confirmed that the float on the fuel pump is not obstructed. The UTV is about 12 years old and has less than 100 hours on it. It has not run in over a year.  Not sure whats going on?!? After doing a little reading I'm leaning towards it being an issue with the ECU or perhaps a faulty wire in the wiring harness. Anyone have any ideas on where to start looking or what I could be dealing with? Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance!
    • By CYJSP2009
      Dear Friends, 
      2022 Brand new Joyner CV Axles and CV  Joint rebuild kits are comming 
      1.  S650.03.02.02.00 ---Joyner 650 Commando Rear
      2. TR1100.03.01.03.00 --- Joyner Trooper Front 
      3. TR1100.03.02.03.00 --- Joyner Trooper Rear
      4. D650.03.02.02.00 --- Joyner 650 Sand Spider Rear Left 
      5. D650.03.02.03.00--- Joyner 650 Sand Spider Rear Right 
      6. SV800.03.02.01.00 --- Joyner 800 Viper, SV1100 Drive shaft Left
      7.  14274 --- 650 ider rear left, rear right, 800 MV; 800Viper, SV1100 Drive shaft rear left and rear right outer cv joint rebuild kit
      8. 15803  ---  650 Sand Spider rear left, rear right, 800 MV; 800Viper, SV1100 Drive shaft rear left and rear right outer cv joint rebuild kit
      Attached are the part photos for reference. 
      Above parts are now on the way to USA, will be ready for inland delivery in middle of July. 
      Price: CV Axle: USD250/ Piece;  CV Joint kit (without grease): USD110  send to door. 
      There will be special discount availabe for deals completed within July 2022.  
      Buy 1 piece: Get 5% discount, 
      Buy 2 pieces: get 10% discount.
      Buy 3 pieces: get 15% discount, 
      Buy 4 and more than 4 pieces: get 20% discount. 
      Please kindly note Qty for each part is not big  and it is hard to forcast when there will be next offer for these kind of products unless there is sufficient confirmed order qty for productioin arrangement. 
      Payment method: Payoneer payment link ( can pay through bank account or credit card) or Paypal ( [email protected]) .  Payment commission paid by the buyer. 
      Interested parties, please contact [email protected]
      Thanks
      Good Luck
      Casey / Leaf Asia
      July-07-2022
       
       
       














    • By MJG
      Hello, 
      I found an 08 Renegade for sale and looking to purchase it.  I haven’t heard too much about these machines and any insight would be much appreciated.  Are they good machines?
×
×
  • Create New...