Quantcast
Jump to content

Trooper Clutch Maintenance Discussion


rocmoc

Recommended Posts

I want to start this thread now hoping it is resolved BEFORE the maintenance is required. The CLUTCH! I believe/know one of the weak links as more performance is added to the Trooper is the clutch.

What is the replacement? I have no idea and will not be replacing with the factory clutch. My fall back plan is to take the clutch to a clutch shop and have it rebuilt with strong pad material and possibly strengthen the pressure plate. IDEAS!

rocmoc n

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Someone a while back on the Arizona site had lost a clutch. There was never a follow up post so not share if it was the real deal.

How long the clutch will last depends on the driver. The more you slip the clutch the shorter the life of the clutch. I am placing a greater demand on my Trooper with the larger tires thus the concern to try and have a solution. I am trying to slip it a little as possible but on one hill last weekend things got really wicked. I had to slip the clutch in a major way for the first time ever and this raised my awareness of a future need to replace the clutch. I personally have never blown a clutch in my lifetime on anything.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hi guys... haven't been around for awhile.... "snowmobile season" Will offer some input here. We have a real bad dust problem here in N.E. Nevada. We call it "bug dust" pure flour somtimes gets to be 1-2 ft. deep. What I have seen from a couple of customers is that enough of this bug dust gets piled up in the pressure plate and it won't release when you step on the pedal. I think the bell housing needs to be seal a little better, possibly w/ silicone sealer. as far as a replacement clutch assy. I thought possibly Center Force might be able to cross over or make a good clutch for us. I just haven't had an opertunity to ck it out yet. I also believe that the pressure plate clamping force could be increased which would be better yet. One problem I see w/ this is the clutch slave cyl. mounting would need to be reinforced to keep it from flexing when applying theclutch pedal. My .02

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Lenny

Been reviewing post to better consolidate them into specific subject areas. Ran across this post and now that I have the bigger tires, I can relate real well to rocmoc. My first thought would be to see how much extra clearance there is in the bell housing oround the clutch. Possibly we could adapt a larger diameter clutch to fit into the available space. Going to a larger diameter will be the first thing I look at when the time comes. Then with stronger springs and better friction material I think we coluld resolve the potential problem for good. IMHO

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Lenny

Not to lighten the clutch issue, there is one thing I mentioned before that would go a long way is getting rid of a lot of work the clutch has to do. Today I picked up four sets of planitary gear sets that came out of the older 350 Chevy automatics. These planitary gear sets give an aprox 3:1 gear reduction. They look pretty tough and have all roller bearings and have 4 planitary gears for good strength. All gears are helical cut for smooth meshing. My plan is to see if I can come up with a way to put one at each wheel with a lockout system so I can switch them off so to speak when not needed. When rock crawling with the big tires, I'm working the clutch real hard at times. A lot of these times I would prefer to just crawl, I mean really slow crawl. The planitary gears would allow me to do this while taking a lot of stress off the driveline. So far I have $55 into all four planitary sets including input center gears and output splined shafts. The guy had a bunch of them, an old transmission shop. I'll keep everyone informed.

Between this and flatbeds clutch shop, we'll be able to get Bull Dozers unstuck.

Lenny

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
I was wondering if anyone has had many problems with the clutch? How long, on average, do they last under normal circumstances?

i havnt had any problems but i was in a mud hole and was playing in it and i filled it up full of mud and had to pull it and clean it up but i put a new one in it and just put the old one up it was in good shape though. that dang driveling goes right through the bellhousing and when your in mud it sucks it right up and filles it up with it.

post-305-1244346372_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i havnt had any problems but i was in a mud hole and was playing in it and i filled it up full of mud and had to pull it and clean it up but i put a new one in it and just put the old one up it was in good shape though. that dang driveling goes right through the bellhousing and when your in mud it sucks it right up and filles it up with it.

How much was the new clutch?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i havnt had any problems but i was in a mud hole and was playing in it and i filled it up full of mud and had to pull it and clean it up but i put a new one in it and just put the old one up it was in good shape though. that dang driveling goes right through the bellhousing and when your in mud it sucks it right up and filles it up with it.

I just got back from a weekend trip and had a bit of clutch issues. Firstly, I got into a really tight spot and smoked it a little bit but not bad I just think that if we had a stronger clutch unit I wouldn't have had a problem. this will really be a concern with more torque. secondly I was riding in a bunch of clay mud type holes and after a while i noticed that i couldn't got the trooper into gear because it wouldn't stop turning so i had to shut the unit off to change between forward and reverse. so this cut my day short and I had to return to camp to consume some beers. but on my way i stopped in the river to wash off and as usual i drive in so the water is almost over the rockers and leave the trooper running. after cleaning up I left the river and carried on but all of a sudden my clutch worked like new. It is obvious now that in all the mud I packed the pads full of mud and the river cleaned it up. I sure wish I knew this before I headed back to camp.

My idea for a solution would be to seal off the bellhousing and put 2 snorkels on it to circulate air to keep the clutch cool and dry.

sorry about the long story I will try to get pictures of my predicaments.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

ksimpsy, Daven at Farr Offroad in Farmington, NM, Tel # 928-242-2709 has found a aftermarket upgrade, met him at the UTV Rally. Good guy, give him a call & a little business. He did a lot of legwork to find a replacement. I think the clutch was made by Performance Friction. Good vendor, I have used their brakes on my race cars and presently have them on my truck.

Side note: getting closer to working on the Trooper. Toyhauler is fixed and son is coming this weekend to help me with the new roof. After that the Trooper moves up to number two on the To Do List.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just got back from a weekend trip and had a bit of clutch issues. Firstly, I got into a really tight spot and smoked it a little bit but not bad I just think that if we had a stronger clutch unit I wouldn't have had a problem. this will really be a concern with more torque. secondly I was riding in a bunch of clay mud type holes and after a while i noticed that i couldn't got the trooper into gear because it wouldn't stop turning so i had to shut the unit off to change between forward and reverse. so this cut my day short and I had to return to camp to consume some beers. but on my way i stopped in the river to wash off and as usual i drive in so the water is almost over the rockers and leave the trooper running. after cleaning up I left the river and carried on but all of a sudden my clutch worked like new. It is obvious now that in all the mud I packed the pads full of mud and the river cleaned it up. I sure wish I knew this before I headed back to camp.

My idea for a solution would be to seal off the bellhousing and put 2 snorkels on it to circulate air to keep the clutch cool and dry.

sorry about the long story I will try to get pictures of my predicaments.

any ideas how to seal the bell housing cause the driveline goes right thru it? i tryed to wash mine out i couldnt get it clean enough had to pull the eng man was that a pain.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

any ideas how to seal the bell housing cause the driveline goes right thru it? i tryed to wash mine out i couldnt get it clean enough had to pull the eng man was that a pain.

Not yet, but I will be pulling my engine next month and will get back to you. BUT, any tricks or pains you can share about pulling the engine. I am going to take digital pics of all the wiring and present state of the engine to help with the reinstall. What should I look out for?

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the drive line goes through off to the side doesn't it? i was just planning on sealing around the bellhousing where the light piece of tin is between the motor. I know around the starter has a big hole too.

rocmoc did Daven give you an idea on price?

Kevin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not yet, but I will be pulling my engine next month and will get back to you. BUT, any tricks or pains you can share about pulling the engine. I am going to take digital pics of all the wiring and present state of the engine to help with the reinstall. What should I look out for?

rocmoc n AZ/Me

well i took masking tape and marked all my conections, but it wasnt really that hard it took me about a hour to pull it. its a really small clutch. but im not used too little vehicals i work on mainly 1000 hp engs but any way theres alot of clamps on it and the wiring is very small so be careful you can break them real easy. you dont have to pull the trans to pull the engine. i put a factory clutch in it and it was totaly diff the the one that came in it. the one i put in it was built better. when i put it back together i put electro grease back on all the elect connections cause i noticed that alot of them were not water tight. good luck there friend. if i can help you just let me know. my email is [email protected]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not yet, but I will be pulling my engine next month and will get back to you. BUT, any tricks or pains you can share about pulling the engine. I am going to take digital pics of all the wiring and present state of the engine to help with the reinstall. What should I look out for?

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

If you take photos, please share, even if you don't keep them for your self.

http://good-times.webshots.com/album/570105729YtrzQc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the drive line goes through off to the side doesn't it? i was just planning on sealing around the bellhousing where the light piece of tin is between the motor. I know around the starter has a big hole too.

rocmoc did Daven give you an idea on price?

Kevin

Sorry nope!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

well i took masking tape and marked all my conections, but it wasnt really that hard it took me about a hour to pull it. its a really small clutch. but im not used too little vehicals i work on mainly 1000 hp engs but any way theres alot of clamps on it and the wiring is very small so be careful you can break them real easy. you dont have to pull the trans to pull the engine. i put a factory clutch in it and it was totaly diff the the one that came in it. the one i put in it was built better. when i put it back together i put electro grease back on all the elect connections cause i noticed that alot of them were not water tight. good luck there friend. if i can help you just let me know. my email is [email protected]

Thanks!

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Similar Topics

    • By donwan
      I have a part that fell over to the exhaust and burned the harness up. I can't figure out what it is. Does anyone know what the start relay looks like? The part I can't figure out has 4 wires, a red power, a green and brown wire, a black and unsure what the 4th color was. Anyone have a clue?
    • By didgeridoo
      Hello, All!  I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
      I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth.  I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so  I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
      If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
    • By Keith k
      Just got this kymco 450i Uxv from a guy, drove it around before I paid. Got home drove around town a little while the next day and it started squealing and amd didn’t want to go. Got to looking at the clutch, that’s were the noise is coming from, the primarily sounds like. Maybe a bearing in there cause the grinding noise and it only makes the noise when you go to move.
    • By MOTORHEAD1959
      ATV just clicks when trying to start. Battery is good, has a new starter, and all the wiring looks good. any suggestions on where to go from here? thanks 
    • By Booker
      I appreciate any advice anyone can give.
      I am working on a Challenger 750 that the drive belt broke on.
      Removed the side cover and spun the primary drive sheaves. Something was clunking.
      Took it off and pulled the outer cover and all of the rollers were out of their spot and clunking when rotating.
      I noticed these rollers are not round. They have 2 different flat spots on them. Are they supposed to be round?
      If not, How do they go back in? Flat side down, up, I don't know.
       
      I apologize for not explaining this properly. I was just hoping someone has seen this before.
×
×
  • Create New...