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That's a huge ring gap..maybe the rings are so soft they wore quickly? Or they were installed without checking which I would not be surprised by either. Hopefully with your proper assembly, it will run fine

The QC on any new vehicle all depends on how thorough the inspectors/installers were on a given day. That's why I make it a point to inspect all new vehicles for this exact reason. You shouldn't have to but reality says otherwise.

Update to my original post: 2018 Massimo MSU 700 burning oil. I disassembled the top end of this HISUN based 686cc motor over the weekend. The cylinder head was unremarkable other than the combustion chamber was completely involved with a heavy black soot deposit. That was to be expected as the unit was burning oil. The piston top was dark brown but again to be expected. I actually expected to find a stuck ring as I removed the cylinder. This was not the case but I have to consideer that a ring could be siezed while in position in the piston ring groove but may immediately "free-up" upon extraction from the cylinder. The cylinder walls while shiny were not scored. There was no detectable (fingernail test) ridge at the top of the cylinder. Of course there was no trace of any original honing crosshatch as the engine has about 350hrs on it. At that point I had not discovered an obvious causal factor for the excessive oil burning. An interesting observation is that neither the top compression ring or the second ring had any identifying marks on them to: 1. Identify which was which and 2. Denote the top of the rings. I am the original owner and know that this engine is as "factory delivered" -- no intermediate ring replacement has occurred -- factory install. The piston skirts did not indicate unreasonable wear ( I have not measured the piston yet). Today I received the top end rebuild kit. As I began the process of measuring the new components I decided to evaluate the existing ring gaps from the smoking unit. Here is what I found: Top (compression) Ring Gap: .051 inch. Second Ring Gap: .125 inch (That is not a typo: .125 inch). At that point I did not evaluate the Third (oil control ring rails) for gap. I am at a loss as to how to explain these numbers. If this were attributed to ring wear I would have thought the cylinder walls would have at least indcated more wear and there would have been at least some discernible ridge. I will measure the piston itself tomorrow. My thought is that if this is indeed ring wear that the piston measurements will reflect significant wear as well. Of course the other possibility is that this is manufacturing/assembly failure and the unit was delivered in this condition. What is strange about that theory is that the unit began smoking excessively only recently and the condition onset was rapid. I have maintained the air filtration system responsibly and prior to disassembly I inspected the filter/the intake ducting to throttle body/the throttle body itself/the intake manifold runners and the intake chambers in the head. No sign of contamination. At this point all I will reassemble with new cylinder/piston and rings. I will check/set end gaps to FSM specs. Additionally I will install new valve stem seals even though the originals appear to be fine. I would appreciate any and all opinons/observations/conspiracy theories etc that may help explain these strange findings. Thank you, Chile

What is your filter? That should tell you.

I get my ATV and UTV filters on Amazon.

Does it fire on starting fluid? Checked compression?

I had a similar issue with my Axis 500. After replacing the shifting fan gears which suffered from the common corrosion issue that ate up the gears, I still could not adjust the shift linkage to cover all the gears reliably. If I adjusted the linkage to reliably shift into reverse, I could not get into first either reliably or at all. If I adjusted the linkage to go into first, I lost Reverse. I also noted that when I went from Reverse to Neutral, the dash indicator would not show the "N" unless I moved the shifter towards Hi and then came back to neutral. That kind of indicator issue was common no matter how I adjusted things. I also noted that the bolt that holds the shifter linkage onto the engine end of the shifter shaft kept coming loose. I disassembled the fan gear cover and even realigned the fan gears but still had the same issues. I decided to take a closer look at how the shifter was working. When I watched the location where the linkage connected to the fan gear shaft, I saw what is in the photo. The metal on the linkage arm had egg-shaped the mating slot so there was a large amount of backlash in the shifter movement before the fan gear shaft started changing gears. Being cheap, I decided to use JB Weld to run a small bead arouhd the linkage arm hole and slide it gently onto the shaft being careful to not get any epoxy into the bolt hole. When I then slid the bolt into the hole with the required lock washer and flat washer, the flat washer squeezed the epoxy along the face; effectively gluing the flat washer to the shifter arm. This means I can still remove the washer if I have to, but the flat washer will not allow the shifter arm to rotate as I shift. The epoxy fills the excess space between the shaft and arm, so there is no longer any backlash on the arm and the bolt no longer looses over a few shifts. The result is a fully adjustable linkage with no excess backlash. It now shifts reliably into all gears and the indicator link matches the transmission position. A much more expensive solution is to buy an entire new gearshift assembly from the shifter to the end of the linkage arm. Several sources such as Hisun, Ebay, Amazon, etc sell this assembly kit for prices starting at around $50. There is a source that will sell the transmission end of the turnbuckle unit alone, but that will set you back about $25 plus shipping. I hope this info is useful and saves you lots of time and money.

aefron88....I see you are a Coleman UT400 connoisseur! I have a 2021 UT400 and I can seem to get it to go over 20mph without cutting out. The seat belts are plugged in. I tried unplugging that connection, I replaced the fuel filter, the battery is 100%. Anything else I should try?

Hello All, We have exhausted all possible troubleshooting steps, now we are in need of some help. Vehicle cranks but will not turn over. Things we have either replaced or tested and are now known good: 1. Fuel pump (new) 2. Fuel sensor (new) 3. Fuel injector (new) 4. Battery (new) 5. Spark plug (new), spark tested 6. fuses (12v to all) 7. we have 12v at the injector module and 11 ohms resistance 8. we have fuel in the fuel line to the injector 9. we have fuel at the spark plug 10. we have injector pulse, verified with noid tester 11. brake safety switch tested (couldn't find a separate switch assuming it is using the brake light switch) 12. seat belt buckled and seat in place (again, not sure if this model has these features) 13. replaced air filter 14. replaced several air hoses 15. flushed radiator and replaced with diluted antifreeze 16. Drained and cleaned the fuel tank prior to replacing the fuel pump. Any ideas, we are open to....Help!!

So it would seem

Mine does not have that feature..I never wear the belt

So..what did you buy?

I am actively looking for an oil filter for my Lowe’s branded Axis x550. Lowe’s sold me a spin on filter but every video I’ve seen shows a cylinder filter. Of course Hisun’s website is a year behind not listing anything 2025 and my searches have turned up nothing. Does anyone know what filter I need ( cylinder or spin on) and where I can find one? thanks

Post voltage at power wire on starter while cranking. Post voltage at battery while cranking.

Fuel, spark, and compression. They are the big three. Fuel... when you turn the key to start (not crank) do you hear the fuel pump run for a few seconds (it should). If so, pull the line at the injector and see if you can pump some into a can. If so, pull the injector and crank the engine. Does fuel pulse spray (it should). Check compression... should be at least over 100psi. Spark... if it has spark, is it getting spark at the right time. To check, pull the cam inspection plate. Get engine to TDC and mark camshaft with white paint at TDC on cam. Crank engine and see if you get spark at TDC (i.e the white mark you marked on the cam). Report back with findings.

Centralized front drive fluid change. The manual says it's below the gear box and takes 6oz of 10w40. Does anyone know how to change this. E.g. where the drain and fill plug are? Perhaps a picture or drawing depicting?

Just to confirm: It ran OK when stopped for gas. When turn key to start, no noises, no clicks, no nothing. Q1: Does the dash light up as normal with the key in the "on" position? Q2: If you use a wire to jump 12v to the starter solenoid, will the starter turn then? (Careful, be sure it doesn't take off on you if it starts). Sounds like there is a safety interlock issue if it is not a blown fuse which you can easily check first. With the fuel pump running as expected and I'll assume the dash lights up, but you get no response of any kind when turning key to start, I'd suspect some sensor is not in the "go mode". Most of these UTVs require the the gear shift and trans to be in neutral position to allow the starter to turn. Is the gear position indicator on the dash showing "N" or neutral? Is the gear shift position sensor switch loose or inoperative? That would certainly account for the symptoms you described.

Can both of you provide battery voltage? 12.43 will not do in many cases. Would like to see 12.6 V DC Put leads on battery while cranking. Post voltage reading while cranking. Pull spark plug and see if it is wet after you hear fuel pump activate. If plug is not wet...... Squirt a little fuel directly into throttle body and let us know if it starts. Charge batteries to 12.6 min. Post results, both of you please

Mine is doing the same thing. Can hear fuel pump when I turn the key. Checked spark plug and it's getting fire. I tried a new fuel injector and still nothing. Guess I will put a new fuel filter and try fuses, although fuses don't look blown.

I’d recommend checking out the utv windshield, they offer durable polycarbonate options that handle high winds, dust, and off-road impacts really well. Their windshields are scratch-resistant, provide great clarity, and are designed for extreme conditions. I’ve seen good feedback on their fit and toughness, especially for rough terrain.

I have a Massimo MSU 500. And a CF MOTO CF600...Trust me you will save money by spending the Xtra $1k. ..There is no comparison in the quality of the 2..I spent over $3k in the first year keeping the MSU 500 useable..I have had the CF600 for 2 1/2 yrs and have spent nothing but gas money..even my oil change was free from dealer..yes, dealer...there is one ..unlike Massimo selling at big box stores and refusing any warrenty claims..

Hi, my 2010 Hisun will crannk but comes to a stop and only clicks. It has new battery and solinoid. Battery connections all seem good. Any ideas what the problem is?

In my opinion yes..QUALITY..I have a Massimo and I have a CF MOTO c force..there is no comparison . The CF is 5 times the quality

I am seriously considering an AMP also, for general use on a 400 acre farm, so keep the update coming please.