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I know that this may be a bit outside the forum , but has anyone had any experience with all terrain wheelchairs ? I live on 5 sandy acres in Florida and am currently wheelchair bound. I have a power wheelchair but it doesn't work very well on my property . I.m looking at one that has rubber treads like a tank . It's pretty expensive so I was wondering if anyone had any experience or knows anything about them before I pulled the trigger. I do have aa side-by-side but can't get in and out. Thanks , Rich

I picked up this Hisun 700cc for a good deal. no crank no start unit 1900 miles on it. Put a new battery and starter solenoid fired right up but sounded rough some kind of rattle/clunk noise. Does anyone know what this noise could be? Couldn't get a better video of it running as i don't want to risk doing more damage. Drained the oil it looks good no metal in it. 445374820_7315077208620291_6073155782020130975_n.mp4

Have a Hisun 800 it runs for about 35 minutes then stalls. Crank's over but has no spark. Let it sit for 15 to 20 minutes and it starts and runs again for about 35 minutes. Changed the CDI / ECU controller and still does it.

Hi, I'm in Australia and need to replace the footbrake pads and cable (weak point if you ask me, bad design), plus might as well get the main brakes done at the same time. Anyone know an Aus dealer, or, know the parts number or equivalent in the petrol version? Cheers.

Hi, all! I. I'm new to the board, hoping someone could help me out! I have a 2020 Hisun Sector 550C that I bought new in 2021. Today, I took some stuff next door to my parents. When I went to leave, I turned on the key, heard the solenoid click, but no lights, no guage activity, no fuel pump, and no starter. The battery is good, I checked all the fuses, they are good. Not sure if the relays are good, or even what to look for there. Is it possible that it's maybe a wire? I'm really stumped on this one! Any help would be deeply appreciated! Attached is a pic of the fuse box layout. Thanks! Todd

As far as I know the oils that need changed is 1. Engine oil which also lubes the "transmission" 2. The front differential 3. The real differential. When changing the engine oil, I took the top hose off the oil cooler and used cheap, low pressure tire inflator (12v that plugs into cigarette socket) to blow the oil back through the lines. Then out the oil drain plug. It takes just a little more oil when changing. But 99% ( + - ) of the old oil is removed from the machine when changing oil.

Maybe you are exceeding load limit..I think mine say 400 lbs in bed

So cut some metal squares from scrap or go to Lowe’s and pick up some metal sheets. Just like above rivet or bolt to add support to those areas that are cracked. The bigger area you cover the better. Do it from the bottom to make it look more professional. Probably not great to haul firewood in the plastic bed. You might also look into a metal sheet to cover and add support to the entire bed. My past job experience we “scabbed” vibration conveyors using the metal squares with great success.

If it’s anything like mine the connectors are kinda junky and don’t always make good contact. Reseat all concerned connectors and make sure they are contacting good. My 4wd wouldn’t engage, had 12vdc to the connector and 26.5 ohms on the front diff magnetic coil. It had flat pins in the male side of the connector so I gave a bit of a twist to them and it’s been working fine since. have you solved your overheating problem?

Thanks for that insight! Don’t know if mine needs any adjustment yet. Still haven’t taken it for a night time/early morning ride.

wow thats good to know, thanks for the info

Do not use full synthetic automotive oils..you will fry the wet clutch..

Glad I could help You.

Thanks Nods, That did it. I thought that might be a ground for a different application or something. I didn't see anything in the manual about it. Thanks again for saving me some work.

YES, had to adjust mine a while back. it is only an up and down adjuster, that's all they gave us. Garrick

Are you talking about what's in the red circle?

Randy, Stop! no need to shim. The adjustment is that one phillips head screw you see in the picture at top right. Up and down adjuster screw. They seem to miss the detailed set-up at the assembly. They just do not check things very well IMO. Hope I saved you some work. Garrick

Most atv utv i recommend 10w40 oil, period, but make sure it is JASCO MA2 for wet clutches, motorcycle oil. U can use regular oil but it will burn easy cause of wet clutch and glaze the clutch, causing slippage. Welcome and cheers from the North

Body metal and pop rivets? Ive used panels from old washer dryer or fridge as well.... That sux, probly just crappy plastic

They don’t Iv tried. Massimo blows. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

At this point I'm guessing I should try to find someone with this equipment to work on it. If that's what you're thinking then I just want to express my sincere thanks for you're help. PS: Yesterday I swapped the ECU from my buddy's buggy over on mine. No spark resulted.

The ones I have are 100A also. I’ll report back in a few weeks/months to give an update.

Well I called the dealer and he was going to call the UTV Rep. and ask about headlight alignment. I haven't heard anything yet so I removed the assembly to check it out. I didn't see any way to adjust the headlight so I will try putting shims on the top mounting screws which will tilt the assembly at the top, giving me the hight I need . I'm posting a pic of the headlight assembly. I don't see any adjusting screws. Not sure what's under the black plastic caps but it didn't appear to be adjustment screws. Randy

🙂 No worries. I figured you must have done it properly since you didn't fry your charger or motor controller. Just didn't want someone else to go down the wrong path! Looking at Litime now, I believe I did look at them before, but at the time they didn't have a 48V-class GC2 form factor battery. I believe the ones you have are rated at 80A continuous output, which should give you 320A continuous for the 400A rated motor. Maybe somewhat more since I think I read somewhere that the motor controller can utilize the slightly higher voltage, but I'm too lazy to do the math right now. The ReLion batteries I used are rated at 100A continuous each, which is one of the reasons I picked them, but I think the moments where the motor controller actually pushes 400A to the motor are pretty rare and certainly compared to the Discover cells, 320A is like night and day.

Im An IDIOT lol i meant Parallel!!!! LOL New to this! and was just too excited it worked!