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Since I've seen some questions on this I took some pictures and will provide instructions on a valve adjustment for the UT400. This should be the same for the 550's and other various Coleman/Hisun single cylinder models with the cylinder slanted aft. I have seen several people ask of it is really necessary, and read several reports of valves being out of adjustment from the factory. My valves were .004" intake, and .010" exhaust with about 5 hrs on the machine. I've seen different numbers thrown around for factory spec, but I decided to go with 0.005". This is called valve lash. What is is is a gap between the rocker arm and the valve then the camshaft isnt opening the valve. Why does it matter? If it's too large the valve doesn't open all the way, if it's too small the valve dosent close. This can cause valve damage (overheating) as well as loss of engine power (burned fuel is going out exhaust rather than pushing the piston dow). Tools required : 5MM Allen wrench, 10MM box wrench, needle nose pliers, flat feeler gauge set, rags First you need to remove the fan cover on the passenger side. There is a cooling vent hose on the back side, remove the hose clamp and slide it off. From there there are 4x 10mm bolts holding the cover. The forward ones can be accessed from under the seat. Next remove the spark plug from the drivers side. Carefully wiggle the spark plug wire off. Grip it as low as possible and give it a little twisting motion as you pull it off to help free it. Its a tight fit for a socket, but there is a sheet metal wrench in the toolkit that fits it. Unscrew the plug and set it aside. This allows you to spin the motor over freely with no compression to fight. When you reassemble this is a good opportunity to switch to an NGK iridium plug for better performance/less fouling DR8EIX) Next you need to remove the intake and exhaust valve covers. The intake us the forward one. There are 3x 5MM Allen screws to remove. The Exhaust is the rear with 2x 5MM Allen bolts. Both covers have O-Rings instead of gaskets and are reusable. When you remove the rear be careful and use your rags as there will be oil that drips out. Next up we need to spin the motor over to top dead center. Grab each rocker arm and give em a little wiggle up and down. Spin the engine over by grabbing the fan with your other hand. Spin the engine over until both rockers have some wiggle and are loose. Once both rockers are loose slide the feeler gauge in like shown above. Try different feelers as needed to determine your starting spec. You should feel some drag but still be able to move the feeler without too much force. If you need to adjust, use the 10MM wrench to slightly loosen the locknut, then with the correct feeler gauge in place, tighten the top square nut while wiggling the feeler in and out. Once you have it right you need to tighten the 10mm lock nut without moving the square head bolt. Once the lock nut is tight recheck the clearance. That's it, button everything back up and make sure you have it all reassembled before running it again. If you find this helpful give me a thumbs up or comment. If you have any questions or need more help let me know. If there's interest maybe I'll do some more of these

Hello to anyone who reads this. I am Jon and I own J&M Outdoor Power, a very small, small engine repair shop. I was approached by Coleman about 6 months ago to become one of their Warranty Centers. I recently received 3 different UT400's and a UT500 all with similar issues. These units range from 2 months to 2 years old. Customers state that the unit(s) was/were running fine, then heard a pop and a loss of power, two would no longer start. The two that would run would not achieve normal operating speed (around 20mph I would say) without redlining the RPMs. I quickly found that the Valve lash on each unit had become too large on some(both intake and exhaust) and too tight on one(just intake). After setting the gaps to .005(I found multiple different people suggesting bigger and smaller gaps, but no definitive Coleman Spec number yet) every unit starts, runs, and achieves top speed without issue. I don't know how many others have come across these issues, and I wanted to get something out on the web for others in the same predicament. Please let me know if you have had similar issues. Edit: I realize that this will not be a fix all solution for this issue, as the oil level and condition should be verified before moving to the valves. Many times improper oil conditions will cause valve lash to change. These units all have good oil and proper oil changes.

Are you talking about an electric heater? if yes its likely too much current. There might be 10 amps of available current coming out of the rectifier that isn't already claimed by the ECU and factory lights. 10 amps @ 12V = 120 Watts, which is about what an electric heating pad runs. If you're talking about a fan for a engine coolant based heater it's probably ok. If you have accessories and the running voltage is below 13.5V you have too much stuff attached. If the battery light comes on it means the battery is actively being discharged while running. Stator based charging systems on these things and tractors etc are really meant to power the ECU and factory systems not to provide a lot of extra power for other stuff, it's not like the alternator on a car.

happy new year!

The main trick is tilting the front end up. Block the rear wheels and jack up the front end at least a foot. A convenient ditch works well also.....rear wheels in a shallow ditch. The head bleeder screw should be opened. With the engine NOT running, almost fill the radiator (leave some air to avoid a mess) and burp (squeeze the lower hose line before the metal tube at the engine base passenger side floor area). Watch the radiator and the the bleeder. With the radiator "higher" than the head bleeder, the air should be bled and coolant dribble out. Close the bleeder and refill radiator (your clue you displaced the air with coolant) and start the engine. Burp more while running and if you get the circulation going the hoses will warm up. More bubbles should surface at the radiator filler neck. Shut off engine. Open bleeder and release any air in the head. The puke jug needs to be filled about an inch above the full cold line. Use a shop towel as a "seal"and use an air nozzle to SLIGHTLY pressurize the puke tank removing the air from the tubing line to the radiator neck. Then the radiator starts to overflow, a third hand can install the radiator cap. Run the engine and determine the head and hoses are at the close to the same temperature (as in warming up) through out the system. IR temp gun....fairly cheap now....can get real numbers. Scan the radiator, hoses, cylinder and head.....if all close you are done. Recheck fluids when done riding. Recheck the bleeder and top off the puke jug as required.

From the look of the picture on the post, I can think of a couple things

Its' not a car, this is a motorcycle engine with a small stator charging system. You can't expect to run high wattage accessories like a heater or huge light bars on these things . That will overwhelm the charging system, drain your battery an stop your engine. Could damage the charging system and voltage regulator too. You only have about 10 amps extra to run any accessories including lights.

My dealer gave me an electronic version of the service manual and I have sent it to Kingfish. I will see if it will upload here for others to use. I'm not sure if there is a more appropriate way to do this, let me know if there is.. 2015-2017 Service Manual - Sector E1.pdf

my Hisun in my Massimo , sold by Tractor Supply, assembled in Dallas, say Made In China on every part of all of it .. Altho it now has multiple Yamaha parts mixed in. lol

https://motorcycledoctor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Valve-Adjustment-HiSun-2.pdf This should do it.

Yeah, I adjusted mine multiple times without any luck. I had extended the shifter rod, as mentioned on this board, as well as some videos I watched, and that resolved the shifting issue. Now, after it slips into forward or Reverse, it never slips out. PS: If you go this route, remember to readjust the cable to compensate for the extended shifter. I had to do the adjustment an couple times after extending the shifter and then the problem was resolved.

I finally found a service manual in stock and was able to make the adjustments per the specs!

Problem was using cheap eBay injector. Bought quality one and hot pipes went away. Running like new.

Buddy, I've been using that phrase a whole lot lately.

Massimo MSU500 won't shift to low I would check the shift linkage. Adjust it make it a little longer, if it is not long enough it won't shift to low

Hello again! I now have a pretty good running Coleman UT400 after a top end rebuild, wet clutch rebuild and a repaired crankcase... ! It plows snow great, but I was also having the jumping out of gear problem, mainly reverse, but a couple times out of forward. I would quickly place it in N and then let the engine idle down and shift again. This worked most of the time. I did some research and found that some have modified the shift linkage. The problem with just adjusting the shift cable is that it really NEEDS more throw, not an adjustment. From what I've read and viewed on the Internet, the linkage arm needs to be about 3/4" longer to gain more throw in both directions. On YouTube, the guy had to remove the shift linkage hole trim and notch the side of the dash to get the shift linkage off the pivot pin. BUT this is NOT necessary. When the "E" clip has been removed and you fish it out of the firewall somewhere, the shift lever is now loose. I had to pop the top of the shift knob off, remove the retaining screw and then heat the lower portion of the knob to get it to come off the lever. Once you have the shift lever loose, push it towards the right to slide it off the pivot shaft. But it won't come off just yet. Use a small pry bar/screw driver and slide the nylon flanged bushing out of the left side of the lever. This lets the lever slide off and get into a "loose" condition and it will twist and come right off without removing the dash trim, that could be a bugger to get back on correctly. Once the lever is off, press out the other bushing so when you're welding on the linkage arm, you don't melt the bushing. I found a piece of scrap metal the same thickness as the lever arm, just over 1/8" thick, close to 3/16". I cut my arm and beveled the edges for better welding. I added a piece just over 5/8" long and kept about a 1/16" gap between the arm and the new piece. Once welded on bother ends, it adds up to just about 3/4" or so. I reinstalled the lever after painting it and did an adjustment on the cable. By the way, it's easier to remove the cable from the bracket on the frame. This gives you more clearance to maneuver in that area with your hands. ALSO, you will need to get a 12" adjustable wrench and slide it over the cable mounting bracket and tweak, to the front, the steel so the cable is pointed upward a bit to now realign with the new longer shift arm lever. There's more than enough metal for the tweak and it will line up perfectly. I now bottom out the shifter on the transmission BEFORE I run out of throw on the shifter... I've tested it just a bit so far and it shifts much better with the longer throw. One of the Coleman authorized repair facilities said that he worked with Coleman to get a new part that's longer by 3/4". He's modified a few and it works perfectly for him. Just doing the cable will just short you on the other end. Here's some pictures of my modified shift lever etc.

In order to connect with the ECU we need two cables. The first is a USB ODBII cable. HUD ECU Hacker’s documentation has a lot of different confusing options, but here’s what I went with and managed to get working, the cable is called “VAG KKL” it is a USB to ODB2 cable. It is available from a variety of sources for $10-15. The second thing we need is a “6 pin delphi to ODB2” adapter cable. It is also available for a similar price. In my case I ordered both from ebay, but there are other sources. Once we have our cable in hand we need to find the plug it in on your machine. My personal rig is a Coleman UT400, but the wire location should be similar for all Hisuns. My cable was located under the middle of the seat area. Just inboard of the battery, where the main wire harness split loom runs. The cable is a 6 pin (3x2) with a dust cap. Remove the dust cap and plug in the 6-pin end of the Delphi adapter cable. Note: When I was done, I left the 6-pin adapter connected, and zip tied it so it now runs to in front of the battery for easier access in the future. Next download and install HUD ECU HACKER DOWNLOAD Open HUD ECU Hacker on your PC It should prompt you to choose a driver to install. This particular cable uses the “CH340” driver (First choice on the menu) click to install, once installed hit the X in the corner to go back to the main page Once the driver is installed plug in the USB Cable, and plug the ODB2 end into the 6 pin adapter. The red led on the adapter should light up indicating it has power. Drop down and pick a com port on the main screen, it should show the VAG KKL adapter as a com port. Click connect on the main menu. It will pop up a bunch of fast scrolling text indicating it is connecting. Once connected you can click through the various tabs to see different data sets. The main menu also has the option to show fault codes, clear fault codes, reset the EPROM back to factory. The other function that may be helpful is recording a log file. You can record a log while operating the unit, and come back later and replay it to try to better diagnose what is happening. Within the various pages you will see the reading from each sensor. Sometimes a sensor reading will be off enough to cause running issues, but not enough for the ECU to realize its an issue. For example if the engine thinks it’s really warm, but its actually cold, it may not inject enough fuel to start. There are also more advanced functions, like adjusting fuel mapping, but that is beyond the scope of this tutorial. Full HUD ECU Hacker Documentation (Very technical reading) If you find this helpful give me a comment below or a thumbs up.

1. No not reliable. Yes, bad seal that leaked oil on drive belt, replaced seal and belt and misc clutch parts. Shift ball detent, both when new. Actually parts have not been the problem, quality is the problem. 2. Have not got rid of it, no one wants it. 3. Kubota Sidekick 4. Damm near impossible, some parts are on ebay. Mine is a MSU500 bought new from Tractor Supply.

Hello, my name is Steve and just signing up. Bought my first UTV yesterday. It is a Massimo T-Boss 550.

2 switches installed. The remote (tethered) and the dashboard toggle switches react both the same way. Push "Out" and the motor attempts to start but stops and then it "clicks" .

You just need the VAG-KKL and the 6 pin adapter. Those I can confirm work, other ODB-II solutions may or may not work I have not tried them.

maybe he's the hunchback

I just went through this with my axis 700 and ended up purchasing a Hunterworks cvt upgrade. I also use mine in the mountains of NC and even the 700 isn't geared for the mountains. No chip is going to makeup for this as they are just under powered for this purpose. The CVT clutch upgrade changes the gearing I would say significantly lowering the gearing for climbing hills. It will also drop your top end as well. If you go with a Hunterworks upgrade clutch you'll need a new belt as well. If you are running this in the mountains you need to keep your UTV in lower gear. If you run it in high hear you'll destroy your clutch quickly.

The gear marked #3 in the diagram should turn freely in one direction, but not in the other direction. If it won't turn in either direction, you've found the problem. There's a one way clutch or bearing that will allow the gear #3 to spin freely in one direction, but the opposite direction is what starts the engine. The starter gear stays meshed with gear #3. Does the starter spin at all? It may be spinning in the wrong direction. Ask me how I know 😡. If you can get something into the hole that houses the gear #3 besides your finger, such as a screwdriver, try to spin that gear using that. If you still can't get the gear to spin in either direction, you'll most likely have to replace the one way bearing.

Thank you. I appreciate the detailed instructions.

Pink Floyd quote/reference. i am looking for a starter for my 2004 800 Renegade and apparently the place I dealt with before is no longer in business. Any help? Thanks in advance, Kenny

Just a idea about an senior and good aftermarket charging system company that has salvaged some new sales failures for a friend. Charging system puked in a few hours after purchase. That takes the shine off of a new unit. Rick's to the rescue. Design wise, the stator is made "light" on the windings so the regulator can be lower cost build....i.e.....cheap as is the "power runs in the OEM harness. The regulator used is a waste excess charging current system. The excess current is shunted to ground over and above that required for the 13.6V ish to charge the battery and run accessories. A higher wattage stator will need a higher wattage regulator. $$$$$$$$ We used Rick's for years.....the latest "problem" I heard about was a xmxmxmx unit that had a strong stator but the voltage regulator used for certain models dies and the regulator is on national back order. NEWLY SOLD UNIT IS UNUSABLE and NO LIGHT AT THE END OF THE TUNNEL. Rick's built up a "custom" regulator to fix the problem that xmxmxmx Engrs could not or would not fix. It is a multi-year screw up so there was time if Rick's worked up a winner in a week why not the OEM Engrs. Contact Rick's and spec a hotter stator and a matching better regulator. Warning: I have had to beef up the stator wires and regulator supply and gnd wires over the stock OEM wiring harness for some real headlights on street bikes.....too much drop in the cheap wiring runs. Just saying, you might have to do some harness upgrades also. Rick's Motorsports Electrics ricksmotorsportelectrics.com

Would like to let everybody with the 23' Z Force units know that Spring Brake Thingy now has a parking brake available for these units. Pretty easy install, the brake pedal does need to come off for a couple holes to be drilled, but that's not all that difficult. These are all made here in the states, like all of our other models. see it at: http://springbrakethingy.com Mods: if we need to do something as a vendor please let me know, couldn't find any info and don't want to brake any rules......

Startron is a good brand.

No - it will not stay running long enough for you to do that.

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I think its interesting that this wire has a 30 amp fuse in it but the other one has a 50 amp fuse. Seems like a mismatch but perhaps different purposes.

This is all to to me as well, I can't say I know the answer to that, wish I did though. When I turned the soleplate I noticed the squeak. I did like I said and noticed the squeak went away. At that point I was happy and unfortunately I didn't really pay attention to how freely it spun. I am going to need to do some maintenance here soon as I'm starting to hear the squeak again, its not as bad , but its there. It could be just in need of some cleaning.

Thanks for stopping by. I live out in the country and wanted to get a good Side By Side to get around my land and the local township I live in. I picked up a '23 bobcat UV34XL (Gas), and I hope I don't bug anyone with all the Questions that I will/may have.. I look forward to reading and having conversations with everyone.

I have done both, the bolted extension and welding , Just had a new claim for shift issues come in , new machine and it had the updated shifter from factory . Somebody listened , lol . I had to extend this shift lever another 1/2 inch . Inch and quarter from original. Few cable adjustments and works fine now . Also see lot of brake squealing noise complaints . Jack up wheel , grab top and bottom, wiggle. If it moves wheel bearing is loose and will let rotor just touch brake pad and make noise . Pull Cotter pin, tighten axle nut to next pin position . Usually fixes it . Coleman rep said they were moving warehouse or some BS . Parts wont be shipped for few weeks yet as of 7/23 /23 . I got tired of waiting and just mod the shifters myself and bill coleman for it now . Cant have stuff sitting for months.

I found out quickly that the bushing was a 2-piece plastic bushing. With the inside bushing out of the shifter, you can rotate the lever to the side and it will all come out without having to remove the bezel. Once all apart and cleaned up, all the pieces were loose and lubricated for reassembly. Like I said, you should bend down the cable bracket mount just a bit to re-align the cable end with the lever. I used a large Cresent wrench to bend the bracket without any problem. Good luck with your revision! Dan

You're robbing Peter to pay Paul with the adjustments. You CANNOT adjust more throw into the cable. All you can do is give more F, or more R. You cannot get both with a cable adjustment. Someone actually cut the slot for the shift lever longer and then modified the detents and that seemed to help him, but the downright simplest solution is to remove the lever assembly and have it lengthen 3/4". And yes, every time it jumps out of gear, the very corners of the gear dogs are rounding off just a bit at a time. Before too long, the gears will be worn enough that they will need to be replaced. A fix sooner than later, is the key here. Good luck, Dan

Looks like Coleman directly will be your only bet.

Well, it wasn’t either of those, after tracing wires, cleaning every connector and adding dielectric grease, no bad wires and fuse was the first thing I checked/changed. It was the relay, $45 on eBay and it’s now running again, with a much quieter fuel pump to boot!

Same problem, did you find a solution as to why it only starts after the injector is removed?

I currently have a 2011 Polaris 400 H.O. that has fewer than 300 hrs on it. My buddy bought it new and I bought it with around 100 hrs. I use it around the farm and to get between two properties that are about a mile apart. I am tired of dealing with the choke when its cold or even cool out. It starts fine and runs ok if your driving but until it gets completely warmed up if you pull up to a gate and get off to open it will die. And because of the choke my wife has a hard time with it. Before I got the 400 I had a 2013 polaris 500 midsize that was fuel injected but aways ran rich and foul plugs. I had it at two different dealers and neither one could fix it. So I sold it and bought the 400. My father in law has a 2015 Polaris 570 midsize which is fuel injected and it is hard to start and cranks more than it should. Needless to say I am done with Polaris and ready to sell mine and move on to something better. I have been looking at the Honda Pioneer 700 and the Kawasaki Mule Pro MX. I was disappointed to learn the Kawasaki Mule Pro MX engine is built by Hysun and not Kawasaki, but that maybe a non issue. Maybe I'm missing another good option that I haven't considered. The main thing is getting something that is bullet proof reliable. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

Hi Tyson, The rear cv axle for 650 Commando is still available like yesterday It is in South Carolina now and if you buy, it will be sent by UPS. So, if you buy earlier, you get it earlier, no need long time waiting. Would you please send me email at [email protected] for further discussing? Thanks Casey/ Leaf Asia 2023-05-29

Roger - Inability to properly shift into both Forward and Reverse is a common problem with this unit. You get one or the other along with gear grinding. It is what appears to be a design flaw with the Coleman UTV400. Another thread exists on this board describing it. Two fixes so far: DIY an extension to the shift handle to increase the throw distance or wait for Coleman to supply a fix-it-kit to your Warranty Service Shop and get it done there. In my case? Still waiting. However, we've been able to mostly make things work. On our Coleman UTV400, Forward works fine with an occasional gear grind starting out. Reverse was and is a better-pay-attention issue. We found that rather than slamming the gear shift all the way to the bottom of its throw, stop approx. halfways between Neutral and full bottom. With a hand on the shifter and fluttering the gas pedal, we've found that usually we can feel the shifter (and transmission) settle into Reverse. Until a real fix happens, we don't put ourselves in any MustBackOut situations. Regards, Ted in OK

Jbs machines sheave kit will give you more top speed. Rhino 700 kit will work.

Obviously Joe you're on an anti-HISUN mission. Just speaking for myself, I'm tired of your constant bad mouthing my machine!! You've made your point, get a life!

Got a outer rebuild kit. Everything worked great.

Simply not true.. Just yesterday massimo shipped me a complete new windshield at no charge as a warranty replacement because the lower piece bowed a bit and didn't seal against the upper. I called on Monday. The tech called back yesterday and I sent a photo. Windshield shipped same day along with a side net latch . No charge. So you make a lot of statements you don't seem to be able to back up. Such as finding hundreds of new Honda utv s when no one else can find one and claiming Massimo doesn't honor their warranty when clearly they have been nothing but top notch in my recent exchanges with customer support. . If you don't like your machine, dump it. Why are you wasting your time on this forum whining in other owners ears?

You do realize that virtually every item manufactured in significant quantity is manufactured in China right? And you do realize that Yamaha, Honda, Polaris, Massimo, etc. don't own any of the manufacturing companies in China because China is a communist country so the government essentially owns every business right? So all of these vendors that sell in the US are distributors. They don't make the parts, they may, like Massimo assemble components and subassemblies into finished vehicles in the US, right? You understand that? Now let's look at why this is the case. what do you think the reason is? I'll give it to you. It's not because people don't want to make things in the US, most everyone would prefer that. It's because it more or less IMPOSSIBLE to manufacture anything significant in the USA and not because of labor cost. Labor cost have little impact because most major manufacturing is highly automated, using little human labor. No, the reason is US government regulations and restrictions (and their friends in the legal business) make it cost and legally prohibitive to make metal, plastic, glass, etc. all the basic components of any complex device. No company can survive trying to do major manufacturing in the USA and they can't open a plant in China (which has no labor laws, no EPA, no OSHA, etc. ) because everything in China is government owned. So the only option is partnering with a Chinese company, and so every major US product vendor does that. Honda, Yamaha, Polaris, etc. all the basic parts that need to be made in large quantity are made in China. If you don't like this, then you need to think hard about how you vote and pressure politicians to be more US friendly and less China friendly. That's the real problem. It's not an excuse for Massimo's lack of attention to customers and quality control. They could do better, but these problems are not exclusive to Massimo and it's a symptom of poor US government and huge over-reach in regulations and favors to special interest and outside influences. If the US government and corrupt politicians would clean up their act, companies with poor products and poor customer services couldn't survive, As it currently stands, high quality and good customer service is too expensive and too much legal and regulatory lability to compete in the USA. Sitting back an blaming companies struggling to survive won't fix it and the current US administration is tacking on more and more odious regulations which have crippled the supply chain and manufacturing, so hang on to your wallet, its going to get worse.