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Since I've seen some questions on this I took some pictures and will provide instructions on a valve adjustment for the UT400. This should be the same for the 550's and other various Coleman/Hisun single cylinder models with the cylinder slanted aft. I have seen several people ask of it is really necessary, and read several reports of valves being out of adjustment from the factory. My valves were .004" intake, and .010" exhaust with about 5 hrs on the machine. I've seen different numbers thrown around for factory spec, but I decided to go with 0.005". This is called valve lash. What is is is a gap between the rocker arm and the valve then the camshaft isnt opening the valve. Why does it matter? If it's too large the valve doesn't open all the way, if it's too small the valve dosent close. This can cause valve damage (overheating) as well as loss of engine power (burned fuel is going out exhaust rather than pushing the piston dow). Tools required : 5MM Allen wrench, 10MM box wrench, needle nose pliers, flat feeler gauge set, rags First you need to remove the fan cover on the passenger side. There is a cooling vent hose on the back side, remove the hose clamp and slide it off. From there there are 4x 10mm bolts holding the cover. The forward ones can be accessed from under the seat. Next remove the spark plug from the drivers side. Carefully wiggle the spark plug wire off. Grip it as low as possible and give it a little twisting motion as you pull it off to help free it. Its a tight fit for a socket, but there is a sheet metal wrench in the toolkit that fits it. Unscrew the plug and set it aside. This allows you to spin the motor over freely with no compression to fight. When you reassemble this is a good opportunity to switch to an NGK iridium plug for better performance/less fouling DR8EIX) Next you need to remove the intake and exhaust valve covers. The intake us the forward one. There are 3x 5MM Allen screws to remove. The Exhaust is the rear with 2x 5MM Allen bolts. Both covers have O-Rings instead of gaskets and are reusable. When you remove the rear be careful and use your rags as there will be oil that drips out. Next up we need to spin the motor over to top dead center. Grab each rocker arm and give em a little wiggle up and down. Spin the engine over by grabbing the fan with your other hand. Spin the engine over until both rockers have some wiggle and are loose. Once both rockers are loose slide the feeler gauge in like shown above. Try different feelers as needed to determine your starting spec. You should feel some drag but still be able to move the feeler without too much force. If you need to adjust, use the 10MM wrench to slightly loosen the locknut, then with the correct feeler gauge in place, tighten the top square nut while wiggling the feeler in and out. Once you have it right you need to tighten the 10mm lock nut without moving the square head bolt. Once the lock nut is tight recheck the clearance. That's it, button everything back up and make sure you have it all reassembled before running it again. If you find this helpful give me a thumbs up or comment. If you have any questions or need more help let me know. If there's interest maybe I'll do some more of these

Hello to anyone who reads this. I am Jon and I own J&M Outdoor Power, a very small, small engine repair shop. I was approached by Coleman about 6 months ago to become one of their Warranty Centers. I recently received 3 different UT400's and a UT500 all with similar issues. These units range from 2 months to 2 years old. Customers state that the unit(s) was/were running fine, then heard a pop and a loss of power, two would no longer start. The two that would run would not achieve normal operating speed (around 20mph I would say) without redlining the RPMs. I quickly found that the Valve lash on each unit had become too large on some(both intake and exhaust) and too tight on one(just intake). After setting the gaps to .005(I found multiple different people suggesting bigger and smaller gaps, but no definitive Coleman Spec number yet) every unit starts, runs, and achieves top speed without issue. I don't know how many others have come across these issues, and I wanted to get something out on the web for others in the same predicament. Please let me know if you have had similar issues. Edit: I realize that this will not be a fix all solution for this issue, as the oil level and condition should be verified before moving to the valves. Many times improper oil conditions will cause valve lash to change. These units all have good oil and proper oil changes.

Are you talking about an electric heater? if yes its likely too much current. There might be 10 amps of available current coming out of the rectifier that isn't already claimed by the ECU and factory lights. 10 amps @ 12V = 120 Watts, which is about what an electric heating pad runs. If you're talking about a fan for a engine coolant based heater it's probably ok. If you have accessories and the running voltage is below 13.5V you have too much stuff attached. If the battery light comes on it means the battery is actively being discharged while running. Stator based charging systems on these things and tractors etc are really meant to power the ECU and factory systems not to provide a lot of extra power for other stuff, it's not like the alternator on a car.

happy new year!

The main trick is tilting the front end up. Block the rear wheels and jack up the front end at least a foot. A convenient ditch works well also.....rear wheels in a shallow ditch. The head bleeder screw should be opened. With the engine NOT running, almost fill the radiator (leave some air to avoid a mess) and burp (squeeze the lower hose line before the metal tube at the engine base passenger side floor area). Watch the radiator and the the bleeder. With the radiator "higher" than the head bleeder, the air should be bled and coolant dribble out. Close the bleeder and refill radiator (your clue you displaced the air with coolant) and start the engine. Burp more while running and if you get the circulation going the hoses will warm up. More bubbles should surface at the radiator filler neck. Shut off engine. Open bleeder and release any air in the head. The puke jug needs to be filled about an inch above the full cold line. Use a shop towel as a "seal"and use an air nozzle to SLIGHTLY pressurize the puke tank removing the air from the tubing line to the radiator neck. Then the radiator starts to overflow, a third hand can install the radiator cap. Run the engine and determine the head and hoses are at the close to the same temperature (as in warming up) through out the system. IR temp gun....fairly cheap now....can get real numbers. Scan the radiator, hoses, cylinder and head.....if all close you are done. Recheck fluids when done riding. Recheck the bleeder and top off the puke jug as required.

From the look of the picture on the post, I can think of a couple things

Its' not a car, this is a motorcycle engine with a small stator charging system. You can't expect to run high wattage accessories like a heater or huge light bars on these things . That will overwhelm the charging system, drain your battery an stop your engine. Could damage the charging system and voltage regulator too. You only have about 10 amps extra to run any accessories including lights.

My dealer gave me an electronic version of the service manual and I have sent it to Kingfish. I will see if it will upload here for others to use. I'm not sure if there is a more appropriate way to do this, let me know if there is.. 2015-2017 Service Manual - Sector E1.pdf

my Hisun in my Massimo , sold by Tractor Supply, assembled in Dallas, say Made In China on every part of all of it .. Altho it now has multiple Yamaha parts mixed in. lol

https://motorcycledoctor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Valve-Adjustment-HiSun-2.pdf This should do it.

Yeah, I adjusted mine multiple times without any luck. I had extended the shifter rod, as mentioned on this board, as well as some videos I watched, and that resolved the shifting issue. Now, after it slips into forward or Reverse, it never slips out. PS: If you go this route, remember to readjust the cable to compensate for the extended shifter. I had to do the adjustment an couple times after extending the shifter and then the problem was resolved.

I finally found a service manual in stock and was able to make the adjustments per the specs!

Problem was using cheap eBay injector. Bought quality one and hot pipes went away. Running like new.

Buddy, I've been using that phrase a whole lot lately.

Massimo MSU500 won't shift to low I would check the shift linkage. Adjust it make it a little longer, if it is not long enough it won't shift to low

Hello again! I now have a pretty good running Coleman UT400 after a top end rebuild, wet clutch rebuild and a repaired crankcase... ! It plows snow great, but I was also having the jumping out of gear problem, mainly reverse, but a couple times out of forward. I would quickly place it in N and then let the engine idle down and shift again. This worked most of the time. I did some research and found that some have modified the shift linkage. The problem with just adjusting the shift cable is that it really NEEDS more throw, not an adjustment. From what I've read and viewed on the Internet, the linkage arm needs to be about 3/4" longer to gain more throw in both directions. On YouTube, the guy had to remove the shift linkage hole trim and notch the side of the dash to get the shift linkage off the pivot pin. BUT this is NOT necessary. When the "E" clip has been removed and you fish it out of the firewall somewhere, the shift lever is now loose. I had to pop the top of the shift knob off, remove the retaining screw and then heat the lower portion of the knob to get it to come off the lever. Once you have the shift lever loose, push it towards the right to slide it off the pivot shaft. But it won't come off just yet. Use a small pry bar/screw driver and slide the nylon flanged bushing out of the left side of the lever. This lets the lever slide off and get into a "loose" condition and it will twist and come right off without removing the dash trim, that could be a bugger to get back on correctly. Once the lever is off, press out the other bushing so when you're welding on the linkage arm, you don't melt the bushing. I found a piece of scrap metal the same thickness as the lever arm, just over 1/8" thick, close to 3/16". I cut my arm and beveled the edges for better welding. I added a piece just over 5/8" long and kept about a 1/16" gap between the arm and the new piece. Once welded on bother ends, it adds up to just about 3/4" or so. I reinstalled the lever after painting it and did an adjustment on the cable. By the way, it's easier to remove the cable from the bracket on the frame. This gives you more clearance to maneuver in that area with your hands. ALSO, you will need to get a 12" adjustable wrench and slide it over the cable mounting bracket and tweak, to the front, the steel so the cable is pointed upward a bit to now realign with the new longer shift arm lever. There's more than enough metal for the tweak and it will line up perfectly. I now bottom out the shifter on the transmission BEFORE I run out of throw on the shifter... I've tested it just a bit so far and it shifts much better with the longer throw. One of the Coleman authorized repair facilities said that he worked with Coleman to get a new part that's longer by 3/4". He's modified a few and it works perfectly for him. Just doing the cable will just short you on the other end. Here's some pictures of my modified shift lever etc.

In order to connect with the ECU we need two cables. The first is a USB ODBII cable. HUD ECU Hacker’s documentation has a lot of different confusing options, but here’s what I went with and managed to get working, the cable is called “VAG KKL” it is a USB to ODB2 cable. It is available from a variety of sources for $10-15. The second thing we need is a “6 pin delphi to ODB2” adapter cable. It is also available for a similar price. In my case I ordered both from ebay, but there are other sources. Once we have our cable in hand we need to find the plug it in on your machine. My personal rig is a Coleman UT400, but the wire location should be similar for all Hisuns. My cable was located under the middle of the seat area. Just inboard of the battery, where the main wire harness split loom runs. The cable is a 6 pin (3x2) with a dust cap. Remove the dust cap and plug in the 6-pin end of the Delphi adapter cable. Note: When I was done, I left the 6-pin adapter connected, and zip tied it so it now runs to in front of the battery for easier access in the future. Next download and install HUD ECU HACKER DOWNLOAD Open HUD ECU Hacker on your PC It should prompt you to choose a driver to install. This particular cable uses the “CH340” driver (First choice on the menu) click to install, once installed hit the X in the corner to go back to the main page Once the driver is installed plug in the USB Cable, and plug the ODB2 end into the 6 pin adapter. The red led on the adapter should light up indicating it has power. Drop down and pick a com port on the main screen, it should show the VAG KKL adapter as a com port. Click connect on the main menu. It will pop up a bunch of fast scrolling text indicating it is connecting. Once connected you can click through the various tabs to see different data sets. The main menu also has the option to show fault codes, clear fault codes, reset the EPROM back to factory. The other function that may be helpful is recording a log file. You can record a log while operating the unit, and come back later and replay it to try to better diagnose what is happening. Within the various pages you will see the reading from each sensor. Sometimes a sensor reading will be off enough to cause running issues, but not enough for the ECU to realize its an issue. For example if the engine thinks it’s really warm, but its actually cold, it may not inject enough fuel to start. There are also more advanced functions, like adjusting fuel mapping, but that is beyond the scope of this tutorial. Full HUD ECU Hacker Documentation (Very technical reading) If you find this helpful give me a comment below or a thumbs up.

Having owed ATVs/UTVs for 30 years, I would strongly advise owning only major brands like Honda or Polaris. The cheap machines are just what you pay for - cheap machines. Be sure you know where you can get service, parts, and answers to any questions prior to buying a machine. You need a dealer and not a Lowes store when something needs attention. I've owned Honda products which are very high quality, but I'd think hard about Polaris if I were in the market for a machine. There are a few other manufacturers that I'm sure offer reasonable support, but a dealer is critical IMHO even though the better machines are reliable. The forums are a good place for information of course. If you have a trail that you plan to ride in your area, go there and talk to the people that have experience. People really like to help.

There's no brake switch. The shift lever just operates a lever on the engine case, purely mechanical.

We see a lot of the UT400 with shift problems, not going into gear, popping out of gear, grinding etc. There is a bulletin Im sure everyone has saw about adjusting shift cable. That dont always fix it. I went round n round with coleman on couple units. We are a Coleman warranty repair center"AFS Small Engine Repair " I told them shift lever does not have enough travel . No amount of cable adjustment will increase travel . I extended lever with piece on flat iron by 3/4 of inch . This gave shifter enough travel to properly engage into gear completely . Last couple units to come in for this Coleman sent me a modified shift lever, with longer travel . Problem solved! Also , heads up if you get any new unit ,,,go over and check it out, grease all zerks, check air filter for being in backwards, check wiring harnesses for rubbing on rotating parts, brake hose routing , make sure not touching exhaust . These are just few of the more common failures I see .

great information. thanks for sharing

I have a 2022 500 Hisun product, I have had them in the past. I change my oil myself and trying to drain through the hole where I remove the plug is a mess. How does everyone keep the belly pan clean during the oil and filter service? Wes Jackson

Sometimes water can come from condensation. My tractor has water separator so that may be a factor why I have no issues anywY good luck.

not to mention mosquitoes lol ....and poison ivy.

https://motorcycledoctor.com/hisun-parts/magneto-400/ Here one at the motorcycledoctor website.

If you take the two nylon bushings out of the lever, you DO NOT need to remove the rubber seal and bezel. The lever just slides off the shaft quite easily. I was one of the first to do this modification. AND FOR ME, it's been the FIX! I plowed two days ago for over two hours and never once did it jump out of either forward or reverse. If the cable system has been really abused, and the unit has been jumping out a LOT, this may not fix the issue. It's very possible that you might have internal issues that only new parts can fix. But be rest assured, that if you do not do the 3/4" extension on the lever AND replace new parts internally, you will be right back jumping out of gear all over again. Most anyone can take the lever off and take it somewhere to be extended. Even realigning the cable bracket after the lever has been extended, is quite easy to do. Good luck! I'm VERY happy with my little UT400. I cannot believe how much snow this thing can push with the 60" wide blade. Because of my driveway size and shape, getting out every few minutes to change the angle pin, was not an option. I bought the hydraulic power angle upgrade and installed that. It's not the fastest to change angles, but it beats getting out to do it. I also upgraded to the fabric vinyl enclosure. In 10 degree weather with some wind, I can plow in tennis shoes and not have to wear gloves. Have not installed an auxiliary heater... Yet.:) Dan Lockwood, Clare MI.

Looks just fine and as long as it works, it's a win-win situation. No one is going to see the welds under the hood anyway. Just make sure you do some readjusting of the cable to compensate for the distance change and you should be fine. Took me about 3 tries before I got the cable readjusted and probably can use another adjustment, but all-in-all, the UTV does run better.

Tonight, I finally got to doing this and it fixed my issue with the machine popping out of gear. I did it slightly differently, by cutting the existing and welding a piece on to it, to make up the 3/4". I'm not a welder so the welds are not pretty.

Hey Folks, I have a BMS Ranch Stallion 4x4 that has been a really good UTV. I have recently burned the belt out by using it to get a tractor back on its feet after someone dumped it on its side. I found the belt online (380.00 bucks) and I have pulled the cover off to expose the belt. I pulled the old belt off but can not figure out how to reduce the tension on the pulleys. I do not know how to loosen the nut that hold the clutch on as it just spins the whole drive, how do i hold the spindle the nut threads onto? I can not find anyhing on the web about the bms ranch stallion and belt replacement. Anyone ever work on one of these?

I have a Massimo Buck 400 2020 model. It is not starting and I am pretty sure it is the solenoid. Anyone know where I can get part? Ebay and Amazon have one but with a different connector. Anybody?

piston slap /wrist pin .. ? lots of possibilities. Rod knock usually just gets louder on revving. Drain oil, see if theres metal in it.

I have a 2022 same problem. In fact on my way to Bass Pro today for this plus Also watch for misadjusted tail gate latches that put too much pressure on the bed causing it to crack.

Regular car oil doesn't have the stuff needed to keep wet clutch lubed like it needs Just make sure the oil rated "JASO MA" or "MA2". Synthetic or conventional is up to you. I read somewhere that the "MA2" rating is for engine exhaust with a cat and O2 sensor. And I think the synthetic lets the clutch slip more than conventional. If there is a lot of miles on the clutch with conventional oil. Then switched to synthetic. The clutch is more likely to slip.

Update on slippage in transmission. Don't use synthetic or semi-synthetic motor oil. Thought I was doing a good thing by using UTV/ATV semi-synthetic oil. Owners manual states if you use high quality oil it might cause clutch slippage. Changed motor oil and used Dollar General conventional motor oil 10W-30 and raised idle speed to around 1700 RPM. Most of the issue is gone, will change oil again after I put some hours on the current oil.

Thank you. That makes a lot of sense, as I now remember I had a garden tractor doing the same thing and after a valve adjustment, it ran like new. It would be strange though in my case, since I only have 11 hours and about 24 miles on the machine. But seeing how these units were produced with a lot of malfunctions, it's no wonder this would happen early on. I will have to check the valve lash and thank you for the update. I found the procedure here, so if anyone else needs instructions, they can follow this link:

A fuse is designed to stop the system from drawing too much current, so changing it for a larger one is probably not a good idea! Replace it with an identical one, and hope it doesn't blow again, as that would indicate something else wrong in the charging circuit.

If you look at the Hisun parts catalog (Alpha-Sports.com) it shows a cap for a carb engine and a different one one for an EFI engine. I'm certain they can assist you in getting the correct gas cap. It sounds like you have enough time invested now with the 400 that you should just fix it and enjoy it. Unless it had an excessive amount of hours on the hour meter or you find something major wrong, I think you did OK on the price. I bought a 2021 (in 2021) outfitter 550 and love it.

Don't worry too much about the steering wheel alignment, for now that is. Do your toe in adjustment and while the outer tie rod end jam nuts are loose, you can take the six steering wheel cover off with a 4mm Allen wrench. Loosen the nut holding the steering wheel on and unthread it so it's flush with the end of the steering shaft. Use your knees or have someone lift up hard on the steering wheel while you hammer the nut/shaft to break it loose. I use two hammers. One ball peen hammer on the end of the nut /shaft and use the second one to hit the first one. A couple good whacks and the steering wheel will come loose. Then unthread the nut and pull off the steering wheel and realign the shaft splines and the steering wheel to make it straight again. You may have to readjust your tie rods a bit to get true center on the steering wheel. I adjusted my toe IN to about 3/16" on each side. Also, you'll have to release the two inner tie rod boot cover outer clamps so the tie rods can turn without winding up the rubber boots. Don't forget to reclamp the boots. I said a lot of words, but it's really quite simple. Good luck, Dan

Bryan G: Thanks for the good info! Appreciate knowing that warehouse may ship out repair parts out soon (we've been waiting months). By carefully shifting F<>N<>R, we can get into the desired gear about 80% of first attempt times. The general squeaking is annoying, thanks for the tip about checking the wheel bearings!

When you do the 3/4" extension, you will have to "bend" the cable mounting bracket just a bit to regain the correct alignment of the cable with the newly extended shift lever. Rather than doing the plate and drilling etc,, I would opt for taking the lever to a fab shop and ask that they add 3/4" into the lever as I did. This should not cost much and will be better than bolting it together. But bolting it all up "may" be a permanent solution.

I just picked up a 2021 Coleman UT400 and one of the things it needs is a gas cap. I believe it needs the 2021+ version with mail threads. Anybody know where I can get one? Coleman isn't shipping anything out right now. I believe the part number is P315001811400000. The only after market gas caps I see available are before 2021.

My bad. Don't read so good. LoL Glad you got it fixed. My Axis had a tie rod lock nut loose at 75hr. You are correct. The toe is the life of the tires and should be checked before hour 1 is put on it. 1/4 inch is 6.3mm (+ -) Enjoy the ride and be safe this summer

On the massimo msu500 , Start the motor, then press on the gas all the way and let the riv limiter cycle holding the gas pedal all the way down, turn off the ignition, then let up on the gas pedal. Then it should be reset.

Did you or shop reset the computer after changing parts? Kinda simple. Look here for a lot of good information on these and other engines. https://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=15675 Look at post #5 "Rebooting the ECU Perform the following steps to reboot the ECU. 1. Turn off the ignition for 15 seconds. 2. Turn the ignition on/off for 5 cycles. Make sure each cycle lasts about ½ second, verifying the start of the fuel pump for each cycle. If the fuel pump doesn't start during any cycle, begin the entire reboot procedure from the beginning. 3. Turn off the ignition for 15 seconds. __________________ Spud" The Motorcycle Doctor has another procedure for resetting the ECU but I think the above procedure is safer.

Try disconnecting the gear position switch on the transmission. Mine was messing up and thought it was in low. Don't really need it unless you like the BEEP!

Couldn't have said it better myself. For a guy who hates Hisun he sure spends a lot of time posting in the Hisun forum...

This is a 2018 BMS Ranch Stallion.

On my 2021 750 EPS there (4) #16awg Wires on the back of the "ACCT" Switch from Top to Bottom as if viewed from the windshield looking the vehicle. They are (top to bottom: Or/Rd - 12vdc from Fuse 15 panel under front hood/cowling Yel/Red - switched (above 12vdc) to Rear Driver Side Gray Plug Blue/Brn - 12vdc from Fuse 15 panel under front hood/cowling Red/Brn - switched (above 12vdc) Passenger Side Fender Well Gray Plug In my case I used the switched red/Brn to trigger a Relay to Drive a 52in Curved Light Bar. I plan on using the Rear ACCY Plug to drive (2) work lights over the Bed pointing to rear. For those looking for the "elusive" Gray Plug it looks like the photo...EXCEPT there is a water proof pug blanking it off. Mine was Black