Leaderboard

Since I've seen some questions on this I took some pictures and will provide instructions on a valve adjustment for the UT400. This should be the same for the 550's and other various Coleman/Hisun single cylinder models with the cylinder slanted aft. I have seen several people ask of it is really necessary, and read several reports of valves being out of adjustment from the factory. My valves were .004" intake, and .010" exhaust with about 5 hrs on the machine. I've seen different numbers thrown around for factory spec, but I decided to go with 0.005". This is called valve lash. What is is is a gap between the rocker arm and the valve then the camshaft isnt opening the valve. Why does it matter? If it's too large the valve doesn't open all the way, if it's too small the valve dosent close. This can cause valve damage (overheating) as well as loss of engine power (burned fuel is going out exhaust rather than pushing the piston dow). Tools required : 5MM Allen wrench, 10MM box wrench, needle nose pliers, flat feeler gauge set, rags First you need to remove the fan cover on the passenger side. There is a cooling vent hose on the back side, remove the hose clamp and slide it off. From there there are 4x 10mm bolts holding the cover. The forward ones can be accessed from under the seat. Next remove the spark plug from the drivers side. Carefully wiggle the spark plug wire off. Grip it as low as possible and give it a little twisting motion as you pull it off to help free it. Its a tight fit for a socket, but there is a sheet metal wrench in the toolkit that fits it. Unscrew the plug and set it aside. This allows you to spin the motor over freely with no compression to fight. When you reassemble this is a good opportunity to switch to an NGK iridium plug for better performance/less fouling DR8EIX) Next you need to remove the intake and exhaust valve covers. The intake us the forward one. There are 3x 5MM Allen screws to remove. The Exhaust is the rear with 2x 5MM Allen bolts. Both covers have O-Rings instead of gaskets and are reusable. When you remove the rear be careful and use your rags as there will be oil that drips out. Next up we need to spin the motor over to top dead center. Grab each rocker arm and give em a little wiggle up and down. Spin the engine over by grabbing the fan with your other hand. Spin the engine over until both rockers have some wiggle and are loose. Once both rockers are loose slide the feeler gauge in like shown above. Try different feelers as needed to determine your starting spec. You should feel some drag but still be able to move the feeler without too much force. If you need to adjust, use the 10MM wrench to slightly loosen the locknut, then with the correct feeler gauge in place, tighten the top square nut while wiggling the feeler in and out. Once you have it right you need to tighten the 10mm lock nut without moving the square head bolt. Once the lock nut is tight recheck the clearance. That's it, button everything back up and make sure you have it all reassembled before running it again. If you find this helpful give me a thumbs up or comment. If you have any questions or need more help let me know. If there's interest maybe I'll do some more of these

Hello to anyone who reads this. I am Jon and I own J&M Outdoor Power, a very small, small engine repair shop. I was approached by Coleman about 6 months ago to become one of their Warranty Centers. I recently received 3 different UT400's and a UT500 all with similar issues. These units range from 2 months to 2 years old. Customers state that the unit(s) was/were running fine, then heard a pop and a loss of power, two would no longer start. The two that would run would not achieve normal operating speed (around 20mph I would say) without redlining the RPMs. I quickly found that the Valve lash on each unit had become too large on some(both intake and exhaust) and too tight on one(just intake). After setting the gaps to .005(I found multiple different people suggesting bigger and smaller gaps, but no definitive Coleman Spec number yet) every unit starts, runs, and achieves top speed without issue. I don't know how many others have come across these issues, and I wanted to get something out on the web for others in the same predicament. Please let me know if you have had similar issues. Edit: I realize that this will not be a fix all solution for this issue, as the oil level and condition should be verified before moving to the valves. Many times improper oil conditions will cause valve lash to change. These units all have good oil and proper oil changes.

Are you talking about an electric heater? if yes its likely too much current. There might be 10 amps of available current coming out of the rectifier that isn't already claimed by the ECU and factory lights. 10 amps @ 12V = 120 Watts, which is about what an electric heating pad runs. If you're talking about a fan for a engine coolant based heater it's probably ok. If you have accessories and the running voltage is below 13.5V you have too much stuff attached. If the battery light comes on it means the battery is actively being discharged while running. Stator based charging systems on these things and tractors etc are really meant to power the ECU and factory systems not to provide a lot of extra power for other stuff, it's not like the alternator on a car.

happy new year!

The main trick is tilting the front end up. Block the rear wheels and jack up the front end at least a foot. A convenient ditch works well also.....rear wheels in a shallow ditch. The head bleeder screw should be opened. With the engine NOT running, almost fill the radiator (leave some air to avoid a mess) and burp (squeeze the lower hose line before the metal tube at the engine base passenger side floor area). Watch the radiator and the the bleeder. With the radiator "higher" than the head bleeder, the air should be bled and coolant dribble out. Close the bleeder and refill radiator (your clue you displaced the air with coolant) and start the engine. Burp more while running and if you get the circulation going the hoses will warm up. More bubbles should surface at the radiator filler neck. Shut off engine. Open bleeder and release any air in the head. The puke jug needs to be filled about an inch above the full cold line. Use a shop towel as a "seal"and use an air nozzle to SLIGHTLY pressurize the puke tank removing the air from the tubing line to the radiator neck. Then the radiator starts to overflow, a third hand can install the radiator cap. Run the engine and determine the head and hoses are at the close to the same temperature (as in warming up) through out the system. IR temp gun....fairly cheap now....can get real numbers. Scan the radiator, hoses, cylinder and head.....if all close you are done. Recheck fluids when done riding. Recheck the bleeder and top off the puke jug as required.

From the look of the picture on the post, I can think of a couple things

Its' not a car, this is a motorcycle engine with a small stator charging system. You can't expect to run high wattage accessories like a heater or huge light bars on these things . That will overwhelm the charging system, drain your battery an stop your engine. Could damage the charging system and voltage regulator too. You only have about 10 amps extra to run any accessories including lights.

My dealer gave me an electronic version of the service manual and I have sent it to Kingfish. I will see if it will upload here for others to use. I'm not sure if there is a more appropriate way to do this, let me know if there is.. 2015-2017 Service Manual - Sector E1.pdf

my Hisun in my Massimo , sold by Tractor Supply, assembled in Dallas, say Made In China on every part of all of it .. Altho it now has multiple Yamaha parts mixed in. lol

https://motorcycledoctor.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/08/Valve-Adjustment-HiSun-2.pdf This should do it.

Yeah, I adjusted mine multiple times without any luck. I had extended the shifter rod, as mentioned on this board, as well as some videos I watched, and that resolved the shifting issue. Now, after it slips into forward or Reverse, it never slips out. PS: If you go this route, remember to readjust the cable to compensate for the extended shifter. I had to do the adjustment an couple times after extending the shifter and then the problem was resolved.

I finally found a service manual in stock and was able to make the adjustments per the specs!

Problem was using cheap eBay injector. Bought quality one and hot pipes went away. Running like new.

Buddy, I've been using that phrase a whole lot lately.

Massimo MSU500 won't shift to low I would check the shift linkage. Adjust it make it a little longer, if it is not long enough it won't shift to low

Hello again! I now have a pretty good running Coleman UT400 after a top end rebuild, wet clutch rebuild and a repaired crankcase... ! It plows snow great, but I was also having the jumping out of gear problem, mainly reverse, but a couple times out of forward. I would quickly place it in N and then let the engine idle down and shift again. This worked most of the time. I did some research and found that some have modified the shift linkage. The problem with just adjusting the shift cable is that it really NEEDS more throw, not an adjustment. From what I've read and viewed on the Internet, the linkage arm needs to be about 3/4" longer to gain more throw in both directions. On YouTube, the guy had to remove the shift linkage hole trim and notch the side of the dash to get the shift linkage off the pivot pin. BUT this is NOT necessary. When the "E" clip has been removed and you fish it out of the firewall somewhere, the shift lever is now loose. I had to pop the top of the shift knob off, remove the retaining screw and then heat the lower portion of the knob to get it to come off the lever. Once you have the shift lever loose, push it towards the right to slide it off the pivot shaft. But it won't come off just yet. Use a small pry bar/screw driver and slide the nylon flanged bushing out of the left side of the lever. This lets the lever slide off and get into a "loose" condition and it will twist and come right off without removing the dash trim, that could be a bugger to get back on correctly. Once the lever is off, press out the other bushing so when you're welding on the linkage arm, you don't melt the bushing. I found a piece of scrap metal the same thickness as the lever arm, just over 1/8" thick, close to 3/16". I cut my arm and beveled the edges for better welding. I added a piece just over 5/8" long and kept about a 1/16" gap between the arm and the new piece. Once welded on bother ends, it adds up to just about 3/4" or so. I reinstalled the lever after painting it and did an adjustment on the cable. By the way, it's easier to remove the cable from the bracket on the frame. This gives you more clearance to maneuver in that area with your hands. ALSO, you will need to get a 12" adjustable wrench and slide it over the cable mounting bracket and tweak, to the front, the steel so the cable is pointed upward a bit to now realign with the new longer shift arm lever. There's more than enough metal for the tweak and it will line up perfectly. I now bottom out the shifter on the transmission BEFORE I run out of throw on the shifter... I've tested it just a bit so far and it shifts much better with the longer throw. One of the Coleman authorized repair facilities said that he worked with Coleman to get a new part that's longer by 3/4". He's modified a few and it works perfectly for him. Just doing the cable will just short you on the other end. Here's some pictures of my modified shift lever etc.

In order to connect with the ECU we need two cables. The first is a USB ODBII cable. HUD ECU Hacker’s documentation has a lot of different confusing options, but here’s what I went with and managed to get working, the cable is called “VAG KKL” it is a USB to ODB2 cable. It is available from a variety of sources for $10-15. The second thing we need is a “6 pin delphi to ODB2” adapter cable. It is also available for a similar price. In my case I ordered both from ebay, but there are other sources. Once we have our cable in hand we need to find the plug it in on your machine. My personal rig is a Coleman UT400, but the wire location should be similar for all Hisuns. My cable was located under the middle of the seat area. Just inboard of the battery, where the main wire harness split loom runs. The cable is a 6 pin (3x2) with a dust cap. Remove the dust cap and plug in the 6-pin end of the Delphi adapter cable. Note: When I was done, I left the 6-pin adapter connected, and zip tied it so it now runs to in front of the battery for easier access in the future. Next download and install HUD ECU HACKER DOWNLOAD Open HUD ECU Hacker on your PC It should prompt you to choose a driver to install. This particular cable uses the “CH340” driver (First choice on the menu) click to install, once installed hit the X in the corner to go back to the main page Once the driver is installed plug in the USB Cable, and plug the ODB2 end into the 6 pin adapter. The red led on the adapter should light up indicating it has power. Drop down and pick a com port on the main screen, it should show the VAG KKL adapter as a com port. Click connect on the main menu. It will pop up a bunch of fast scrolling text indicating it is connecting. Once connected you can click through the various tabs to see different data sets. The main menu also has the option to show fault codes, clear fault codes, reset the EPROM back to factory. The other function that may be helpful is recording a log file. You can record a log while operating the unit, and come back later and replay it to try to better diagnose what is happening. Within the various pages you will see the reading from each sensor. Sometimes a sensor reading will be off enough to cause running issues, but not enough for the ECU to realize its an issue. For example if the engine thinks it’s really warm, but its actually cold, it may not inject enough fuel to start. There are also more advanced functions, like adjusting fuel mapping, but that is beyond the scope of this tutorial. Full HUD ECU Hacker Documentation (Very technical reading) If you find this helpful give me a comment below or a thumbs up.

1. No not reliable. Yes, bad seal that leaked oil on drive belt, replaced seal and belt and misc clutch parts. Shift ball detent, both when new. Actually parts have not been the problem, quality is the problem. 2. Have not got rid of it, no one wants it. 3. Kubota Sidekick 4. Damm near impossible, some parts are on ebay. Mine is a MSU500 bought new from Tractor Supply.

You just need the VAG-KKL and the 6 pin adapter. Those I can confirm work, other ODB-II solutions may or may not work I have not tried them.

maybe he's the hunchback

The gear marked #3 in the diagram should turn freely in one direction, but not in the other direction. If it won't turn in either direction, you've found the problem. There's a one way clutch or bearing that will allow the gear #3 to spin freely in one direction, but the opposite direction is what starts the engine. The starter gear stays meshed with gear #3. Does the starter spin at all? It may be spinning in the wrong direction. Ask me how I know 😡. If you can get something into the hole that houses the gear #3 besides your finger, such as a screwdriver, try to spin that gear using that. If you still can't get the gear to spin in either direction, you'll most likely have to replace the one way bearing.

Wouldnt hurt to just drain the whole fuel system and try fresh fuel. Easy enough to do

If your model is fuel injected then look at the AIC valve/servo motor that is located under the throttle body. My 2021 Hisun i.e. Axis 700 periodically does the same thing and the cause is the AIC sticking. The AIC has a small mushroom shaped piston that is internal threaded that opens and closes based on the input to the ECU. The symptom's you described are exactly what I have when it sticks. It did it again to me this last week. The fix for me is to remove it very carefully as it has some small part that can get lost rather easily and clean the carbon off the piston. This time I think I'm going to add a little grease to see if it stops sticking. I might even polish it up gently with buffing compound using a Dremel. I actually loosen the throttle body and turn it to get access to the thing.

Pink Floyd quote/reference. i am looking for a starter for my 2004 800 Renegade and apparently the place I dealt with before is no longer in business. Any help? Thanks in advance, Kenny

So after studying the schematic, I started looking for the 30A fuse that goes from the charger to the batteries. I found it mounted to one of the batteries. The fuse holder had actually melted. I replaced the fuse and holder and the charger started right up. I kept an eye on temperature of the new holder and the wires running to it. They get quite warm, but not enough to melt the new holder at this point. I am worried what made it so hot in the first place and am concerned it will happen again. We'll just have to wait and see.

download my manual i uploaded here, will tell you everything you need to know and then some

Update. Got the engine out, & removed the piston. Cylinder walls look fairly decent; no scoring I can see or feel. The 2nd ring on the old piston snapped in half as I was taking it off the piston, & they were very worn. I think that's the issue. I'll finish putting it back together tomorrow, then perform the leak down while it's on the bench. With any luck, this will fix it so it'll last another year or two. Next time, I'll just get a remanufactured engine; there's a place here in St. Louis that sells the complete engine for $950. Joey

Hi there…one of the few disappointments with my new side by side is the low beam lights. They seem to be little more than driving lights. Is this a common complaint amongst owners? Rufus

They probably would but I doubt you would be happy with them these are for cars not off road vehicles have you tried tractor supply or rural king or other stores of this type they usually have tires for these things

Rainman, six months, 100 hours, or 1000 miles is a general interval for ATV/UTV oil changes. Searching for hisun/colemans recommended intervals only turn up 800 numbers. The seafood is made of mostly naphtha and isopropyl alcohol. That stuff will destroy any seals, plastic, rubber, rust, etc it comes into contact with. Known to ruin injectors, so user beware. Hopefully you got your situation figured out, and take it slow in the driveway.

Thanks for the info but shipping cost from Klung is a deal breaker.

Does anyone know the part number for the stator and flywheel on the 2015 intimidator 750 gas? It has a kohler Ech730-3036 engine.

Startron is a good brand.

No - it will not stay running long enough for you to do that.

Discover the thrilling world of SxS Adventures with UTV Offroad Adventures in 2024! Be sure to explore their website for comprehensive details about each event. These experiences promise an unforgettable time, and with high demand expected, swift registration is key if you're keen to participate in any of them. Head over to www.utvoffroadadventures.com now to secure your spot in these exciting journeys!

Clean the sheaves with soap and water. Then lightly scuff the sides with a brillo pad. Watch a few YouTube videos on replacing the cvt belt. Doesn't have to be same model or same machine. You are just wanting a general look at how to clean up the sheaves. Replaced the clutch 2 times on a cfmoto 600 uforce. Once just ofter I purchased the used machine. Then 8 months later after a catastrophic cvt belt failure flipped me and the wife on its side do8ng about 30mph down the highway. The belt came apart in pieces and chunks and wrapped around the sheaves. Locking the transmission/rear wheels. Then we went sliding down the blacktop. I turned the steering wheel to ease off the highway onto a grass area. Then we flipped on the driver side. Just some bruises and a few scratches. Nothing serious. After getting machine back on its wheels was able to put in neutral and push around. Then called brother-in-law to bring a trailer and load. Repaired the machine and sold at wife's request. Then got a Axis 500. Same cvt belt setup. But in her mind it hadn't tried to kill us. Lol Look at a diy tool for the secondary sheave for a cfmoto. There's a lot of guys that a tool for adjusting the clocking to remove the HD spring. I'm not familiar with your setup. But most are similar. There is a lot of force under that spring. Becareful that spring can seriously hurt or kill you. Also when I got the new Axis I put on a 5-point harness simply because the cfmoto flipped us and the lap belt wasn't enough to keep the wife from getting hurt.

I think its interesting that this wire has a 30 amp fuse in it but the other one has a 50 amp fuse. Seems like a mismatch but perhaps different purposes.

I don't think that is a valid error code. You can look on this website to verify HUD ECU Hacker (netcult.ch) I have this software along with the real Tetris adaptor and I can connect to the dephi ECU, read and reset error codes. I tried the cheap route as far as adaptors go but ended up buying the real thing. Here's the link to the delphi ECU manual. Microsoft Word - Delphi_CTC_Small_Engine_EMS_Service_Manual_Rev1_Eng.doc (netcult.ch) At the end of the manual are all the error codes and there isn't a 1111 listed.

You're robbing Peter to pay Paul with the adjustments. You CANNOT adjust more throw into the cable. All you can do is give more F, or more R. You cannot get both with a cable adjustment. Someone actually cut the slot for the shift lever longer and then modified the detents and that seemed to help him, but the downright simplest solution is to remove the lever assembly and have it lengthen 3/4". And yes, every time it jumps out of gear, the very corners of the gear dogs are rounding off just a bit at a time. Before too long, the gears will be worn enough that they will need to be replaced. A fix sooner than later, is the key here. Good luck, Dan

Looks like Coleman directly will be your only bet.

I agree with you, Joe. If they made a filter that could remove all the dirt and other contaminants, we would have much greater oil change frequencies.

Same problem, did you find a solution as to why it only starts after the injector is removed?

I currently have a 2011 Polaris 400 H.O. that has fewer than 300 hrs on it. My buddy bought it new and I bought it with around 100 hrs. I use it around the farm and to get between two properties that are about a mile apart. I am tired of dealing with the choke when its cold or even cool out. It starts fine and runs ok if your driving but until it gets completely warmed up if you pull up to a gate and get off to open it will die. And because of the choke my wife has a hard time with it. Before I got the 400 I had a 2013 polaris 500 midsize that was fuel injected but aways ran rich and foul plugs. I had it at two different dealers and neither one could fix it. So I sold it and bought the 400. My father in law has a 2015 Polaris 570 midsize which is fuel injected and it is hard to start and cranks more than it should. Needless to say I am done with Polaris and ready to sell mine and move on to something better. I have been looking at the Honda Pioneer 700 and the Kawasaki Mule Pro MX. I was disappointed to learn the Kawasaki Mule Pro MX engine is built by Hysun and not Kawasaki, but that maybe a non issue. Maybe I'm missing another good option that I haven't considered. The main thing is getting something that is bullet proof reliable. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance

My wife and I made the 1.5hr trip and picked up our new CanAm Defender XT HD9. So far I really like it and I'm happy with our decision. I also got the new front and back windshields from Rad Accessories. I chose the light tint on both. Super easy install as they come assembled just twist and lock. I also installed my SuperATV rear view mirror. I also removed the door nets after I took these pictures. The power steering is great and for a 975cc engine it is very quiet. I still plan to add some of the under seat storage tubs, a LED light bar on the front bumper, maybe one on the top of the windshield and a couple of pod lights on the back of the cab for rear lights.

Jbs machines sheave kit will give you more top speed. Rhino 700 kit will work.

Joe, everyone on here is well aware of your opinion. Feel free to share useful technical info or answer questions. You have contributed plenty of useful posts over the years, but showing up just to post garbage bashing certain brands isn't useful to the discourse. We are all aware we bought cheaper machines and made compromises in doing so. This forum can be a useful place where we can all come together and share helpful info about these machines.

Obviously Joe you're on an anti-HISUN mission. Just speaking for myself, I'm tired of your constant bad mouthing my machine!! You've made your point, get a life!

Got a outer rebuild kit. Everything worked great.

Simply not true.. Just yesterday massimo shipped me a complete new windshield at no charge as a warranty replacement because the lower piece bowed a bit and didn't seal against the upper. I called on Monday. The tech called back yesterday and I sent a photo. Windshield shipped same day along with a side net latch . No charge. So you make a lot of statements you don't seem to be able to back up. Such as finding hundreds of new Honda utv s when no one else can find one and claiming Massimo doesn't honor their warranty when clearly they have been nothing but top notch in my recent exchanges with customer support. . If you don't like your machine, dump it. Why are you wasting your time on this forum whining in other owners ears?