Travis
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Everything posted by Travis
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I put my new fuel pump on it, and cleaned and blew out the filter both ways, i didnt take it for a drive since i didnt have time, but it idled a whole let better.
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I'm leaning toward a clog somewhere or something getting clogged, it's 1/4 mile one way from the house to the barn, the 2nd time it did it was only after riding for about a minute, but then about the last half of the 1/4 mile it ran perfect.
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It has a fuel pump, it works off of crankcase breather. I cleaned the carb when I had it apart. But finally it kind of clears its self up and ran good. So I just wonder if there's some trash in the tank or something. I'll have to get some b12, that stuff works wonders. I also ordered a new fuel filter.
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I took it On a half mile round trip today. Had some fuel issues. It would cut out and die, then only idle at choke, and I would keep it choked to a degree and throttle at the same time.. Fresh fuel, filter is old, but new.
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Activity comes and goes.
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Fixed it and now it revs like a beaut!! I think later this spring i'll replace at least the front wheel bearings, i'm getting a little bit of slack whenever i jack it up and wiggle the tires.
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Welcome to the forum! Glad to see another Mule owner, I just got through rebuilding a 01 mule 550..
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You can put as large of a battery as you want. Within reason. The size of the battery has virtually no effect in the charging system. The drain on the charging system (How many amps you are using) is what is damaging to the charging system. Think of your charging system as a bank. The battery is the checking account, the alternator output determines how quickly and how large of a deposit you make, and the electrical load being the checks. When you use more electricity than the alternator can produce, you start using the reserve funds. When you run out of reserve funds and are still using more electricity than the alternator can produce, checks BOUNCE! (meaning damage to the alternator,and or regulator is assured). As long as the electrical system isn't overtaxed, you're fine.😁 It's mostly about minimum cranking requirements and fit. If you can fit a bigger, or more importantly, higher cold cranking amp, battery, I definitely would.
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I really don't know, the picture shows how it's supposed to be in the manual , but the picture is grainy and low quality.
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I know I've set the idle at the carb here's a picture of the set up, that governor arm is supposed to be on front of that stopper. according to the manual this is where you adjust the governer. I might have my friend come over and look at it, he's a little more mechanically minded than me. The throttle cable hooks into the hole by the top screw,
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Since I don't know, I think it's a speed controlled. took have the governed arm that connects to a gear in the crankcase and hooks up to a spring from the carburetor.
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I can't figure out that governer on that thing, I can only go about 10 mph. Which is fine for me, but I can't rev it was that if I'm hauling something. The manual gives no clear explanation.
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I lubed it up and put it back on, sounds great now!!! I notice I have a slight ticking coming from the head, sounds like a lifter.
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Well, after doing some head and rear scratching and putting the pencil to it. I think im just going to put it back on and role with it. That rebuild kit i found is for the DRIVEN pulley on the transmission input shaft. And the parts total to rebuild the clutch nears $200, and a brand new one is $386 from Kawasaki........... thats almost more than i have in the engine!
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZoZLFLXBhc0&feature=youtu.be
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Looks like this wacked with a hammer or something before....
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The cheapest USED one i found was $250 on ebay. I found a guy selling a rebuild kit for it for $60. but that was for the transmission driven pulley. Brand new oem is $390, thats almost what i have in the engine! lol. This diagram is a little confusing for me as to which parts go on what.... of course once i take it apart i can find out.... but looking at the parts i THINK i'll need. I'll just wait until it blows up and replace it... https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b2773f8700223e4791d4c/drive-converter
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It is rebuildable. I took a video but the trouble is getting it from my tablet to the computer. Lol.
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Yes. I took the cover off and fired it up, if you know how a centrifugal clutch works, that what the pulleys is, you have one piece that moves out from underneath the metal housing and whenever it's at idle, it's rubbing against the housing, and when I gas it it moves from underneath the housing and stops, I also noticed the movement of it is rough and catchy not smooth like it should be.
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For some reason at idle it knocks, but the knock is coming from the belt case, it could be cause I put a new belt on it, and I know the the pulleys are known for making noise as they age, not sure why though. Never made the noise until i put the belt on it. It sounds far different from a rod knock.
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I took the plug off, depressed the spring and VOILA ! So I fired it up and drive it up the driveway an back! I need to re adjust the governed and idle speed, although the governed right now is at how fast I usually drive it. how long should I run the break in oil???
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Right rear brake locked up. cant get the drum off. I've done everything the manual says. about to try taking off the plug they have to further release pressure/
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Thought this was neat!
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Merry Christmas everyone!🎅 Wishing you a safe and happy Christmas and a awesome New Year!
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Well, i have a electrical problem now, whenever I turn the headlights on, and press the brake pedal the brake light doesn't come on, but when the lights are off it comes on..... Not a serious problem, I can live with it.
