Travis

I've also been in the market for an air ratchet, i do a little tinkering with lawn mowers, need something a little stronger than my B&D drill, but still can get bolts and nuts tight quicker, and be nice just to have one.

Estate sales are plentiful around here, I'm starting to keep my eyes open for tools at them.

I have a 48 piece kobalt socket set, and 20 or 24 piece craftsman wrench set, and kobalt screwdrivers. I heard dewalt -Stanley black &Decker are building a forging plant here in the US to manufacture Craftsman tools.

I tried vice grips at first on the bolt, but the way the it broke it left a peak, or a point on top, and the grips wouldn't clamp it. Good idea with the rope!! I will definitely try it. I was able to tighten it a little bit more, but not to spec yet. I built an "engine test stand" (square piece of ply wood i drilled holes through to mount the engine) so i can fire up and make sure everything works/is in working order out side of the frame, so i don't install and it blows up on the first stroke.that would be my luck. lol. You've given me a lot of good advice and i appreciate it a bunch! Merry Christmas!

I installed the new valve tapper and adjuster. Put the valve cover on, (torque spec, 130 inch pounds on the 2 bolts) I set my torque wrench to 130, and S N A P. so i take the valve cover back off, and see the broken bolt, Thank the good Lord Almighty it broke off just before it threads into the head, and it was enough to get my needle nose on and back it out, luckily i had kept the old bolts, so put a new o ring on one and tightened, but this time as tight as i could with a regular ratchet. I still need to torque the flywheel nut, it's kind of hard with one person, to keep the crank shaft from spinning while tightening it. Any suggestions?

I was just wondering if you still had a problem/broken part that you needed help with. 😁

That's sad. what exactly are the problems to are having?

Welcome to the board! Good to have you on here. what brand of U TV so you own?

I know sometimes you can buy oil seals by their dimensions. can you find any markings or numbers on the trans, or there might even be numbers on the seal.

Did you ever find the VIN? hope all is well with you and your Mule!

Thanksgiving was good, good time with family and friends. The leftovers are the best though

I think I'm gonna leave em at 240 with blue locker. But now I need to torque the flywheel nut, 63 foot pounds. And that comes out to 756 inch pounds. I might stop by harbor freight and pick up one of their $20 torque wrenches. They have a 3/8 drive from 5-80 ft pounds.

And you definitely want to look at a used one, new anything from them run about $14,000, they do have one about 8000, but it's more utility than sport The wildcat would be a good one too look into. Happy Thanksgiving!!!!

I rarely hear anything bad about arctic cats, they were bought out by Textron recently. (Another good manufacturer)

I put the crankcase cover bolts on the torque specs are 250 in ibs. my torque wrench only goes up to 240 inch ibs., am i okay leaving it at that, or should i go to harbor freight and pick up one, i looked and they go up to 250. ????

UPDATE: I've been so dang busy lately, i finally got a couple of hours to work on the jacka$$... i mean Mule..😉 Got the rod bolts torqued, pulled off the oil pump/tang installed the cam and timed it it to the crank, put the cover on, and for those who dont know or remember the ordeal with the crankshaft and cover: There is a shim between the crankcase cover and the crankgear, this helps control the end play, or side to side movement of the crank. anyway, the first time i installed the cover the crankshaft would not spin by hand (according to the manual its supposed too) so i measure all the clearances (according to the manual instructions) and came up with the correct size shim. so back to TODAY. I installed the new shim (VERY easy) slid the cover on, put the new bolts in, torqued them and the moment of truth, the crankshaft spun by hand,which is what i was looking for! So now all i need to do is install the head and set the valve clearance. and for anyone else rebuilding any engine, i do not recommend using Permatex assembly lube, it is very slick and not tacky, it runs of the parts easily, so i bought some Lucas lube, and it's slick, but tacky enough it held onto the surfaces. https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10152-Assembly-Lube/dp/B000WJ3M6I

Are there any fuses going to the fan .check online for wiring diagrams I have never heard of this UTV brand before.

Welcome to the UTV Board! If in Temp switch you mean thermostat, your part # is 49054-2056, https://www.kawasakipartshouse.com/oemparts/a/kaw/500b6b2af8700223e4797d8d/radiator

https://www.kawasaki.com/products/2018-MULE-PRO-FX https://ranger.polaris.com/en-us/?msclkid=6482cd55147f1cece1bc968099d542c7&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Ranger_USA_Brand_Exact&utm_term=polaris ranger&utm_content=Ranger_General_Brand_Exact&gclid=CPGHiYf1qN4CFRCPhQodUMMAqQ&gclsrc=ds

I think he mentioned in one of his first threads that it's a 3 cylinder engine, i would think a regular machine shop could take it.

What!? That's just crazy Could you send me a picture of the camshaft. I might could talk to the machinist here in town, if you wouldn't mind sending it off.

If you have a local machine shop, they should be set up to do it, but you said you cant find anyone to do it locally.

Good to hear it's back up! 2400 seems a little steep, but i guess thats including labor etc.

That's a nice looking buck!! I've seen 2 nice 10 pointers on my property this year.

Woo Hoo! glad you found it!