Travis
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Everything posted by Travis
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Well, I would say not much more than the HP or CC of the current engine. Are there any numbers on the belt?
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http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/ This would be a good place too look.
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Ooh! Them heads are beat up! I noticed in the 4th picture, the head on the right,by the exhaust valve on the bottom next to the seat looks like a vertical crack... Is it? the cylinder looks good from what I can tell, except a few score lines, if possible take it to a machine shop and have them mic both, and hone them, shouldn't cost more than $50., And measure the crank journals, although they look excellent, it's cheap insurance from all your work blowing up. https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-10152-Assembly-Lube/dp/B000WJ3M6I/ref=asc_df_B000WJ3M6I/?tag=bingshoppinga-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid={creative}&hvpos={adposition}&hvnetw=o&hvrand={random}&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=e&hvdev=t&hvdvcmdl={devicemodel}&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583932699391023&psc=1 Lucas oil assembly lube, good stuff, coat all the cam and crank the,crankpin and valve springs. look forward to seeing your work!!
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Sounds like a good deal! I would find out if there is a undersized rod, and specs for grinding the crankshaft, that *might* be cheaper than having to get a new rod and crankshaft, possibly.
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As far as I know you would need to take that nut off of the very end.
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Welcome to the forum!! Do you know exactly what happened to the engine? Ran low on oil? Threw a rod?
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http://www.subarupower.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/09/subaru-engines-eh64-eh65-eh72-service.pdf I believe this is the engine service manual for your engine.
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Could you post a picture please? Usually pulleys are keyed on, similar to a flywheel on a small engine. Sometimes the key can rust to the pulley, try heating it up red hot, and quench it with a garden hose, that turns the rust to powder, and beat it off with a 3 pound hammer. If not , soak it in Diesel, or Evapo-rust. Or even spray it with PB blaster.
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@Flanman55. You might message @strike250, he knows quite a bit about HiSun.
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I will say it's clever marketing. Attracts the people who are too poor to pay for lawn care and too lazy to perform maintenance..
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Speaking of Oil, fairly recently Briggs and Stratton released a new engine, that you never have to change the oil in. Just Check n' Add. 🙄 i suppose if you let it run dry from burning oil you could add and that would be an oil change..... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fD4Pj1b2_FM
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I think that "myth" comes from the early days of synthetic oil, found this. Best Answer: In all lies is a grain of truth. Early in the days of synthetic, the compounds in the oil had different effects on the internal seals of an engine. Petroleum contained distillates that caused the engine seals to expand or "swell". The seals would wear to the correct tolerance for that component and everything would be fine, until the owner switched to synthetic oil . Synthetics did not contain the distillates and the seals would return or "shrink" back to their original size. This caused sometimes incredible oil leakage issues. An interesting side bar is the invent of several "stop leak additives" to battle these problems. The primary component of these was and still is today.... Petroleum Distillate If an engine had synthetic oil in it from the beginning and for the majority of its existence, the seals would not swell and wear until the owner switched to conventional oil. Once the switch was made, you could never go back due to the extended wear to the motor. Both synthetic and conventional oils are "engineered" today making them very similar in detergent and distillate levels, so switching is not so much of an issue anymore
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All I saw was cast iron and aluminum, held together by bolts. http://www.whitfieldoil.com/156.631 ⬆interesting read. I don't see why conventional won't work after a synthetic.
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This is what i have in it now, I used run Valvoline 10W40. https://www.motul.com/us/en-US/products/break-in-oil-10w40-5a98e823-b9a8-4419-a72e-8b2cf0bf2bcd I've always heard if you run synthetic, you can't go back to conventional.....?
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3 hours on the new engine! so far so good! one question, the oil change is either once a year OR every 50 hours, i wonder if i should change it sooner since it's break in oil? I don't know.
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Sorry the video isn't better. Driving one handed and trying to hold it steady is hard.
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Massimo 500 Throttle Pedal Extension needed
Travis replied to Tony C's topic in Massimo UTV SxS Forum
Hi, you might try looking here. http://www.armstronglifts.net/products/pedalmates.htm -
Well, I finally put 2 hours on the new engine, so far so good!
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I gave the Mule a bath today, and I tell you what Windex works great on cleaning the front dash/plastic and gives it a nice shine as well!
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I think once i empty this tank, i heard that the Evapo- Rust works real good on metal gas tanks.
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Well, i think Mr, Berryman Chemtool worked his magic, ran it for 30 minutes with no problems, it Idles higher now so i had to adjust it again.
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and i DEFINITELY need to clean out the tank again. i filled it up about 1/2 way with diesel, let it soak over night shook it around, emptied it and repeat, i guess that still didnt get it good, i see small specs of rust or something in the fuel filter.
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Put some B12 in the tank today, and drove it around for about 15-20 minutes, at idle i can definitely tell it's surging at idle,, Idles high for a few and then idles back down a little... oh well, I'll see what Berryman can do about it. before i take it off and soak it. lol
