Travis

Welcome to the forum! Here is a link to joyners web page for parts. http://joyner-usa.com/joyner-parts/

https://ibb.co/dcwsFH2

The following product safety recall is being conducted voluntarily by Kawasaki in cooperation with the CPSC. Consumers should stop using the product immediately unless otherwise instructed. For more information about recalls, visit CPSC’s website at http://www.cpsc.gov. Name of Product: MULE™ PRO Units: Approximately 1,000. Distributor: Kawasaki Motors Corp., U.S.A., Foothill Ranch, CA Hazard: There is a possibility that an incorrect grade of material was used to manufacture the ROPS crossmember of the roll over protective structure which does not meet the intended tensile strength. Description: The recall involves 2018 model year MULE™ PRO DXT, DX and 2019 model year MULE™ PRO FXT, FX, and FXR utility vehicles. Sold at: Kawasaki dealers nationwide from August 31, 2018 to September 22, 2018 for between $13,100 and $17,000. Remedy: Consumers should immediately stop using the product and contact your Kawasaki dealer to schedule a free repair. The repair consists of replacing the ROPS crossmember. Consumer Contact: Kawasaki toll free at 866-802-9381 from 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. PT Monday through Friday.

**edit**, this is the valve i put the new adjuster on....

I may be on too something, I'll post the video with my findings soon.

Hmm, I will definitely try it that way...👍

Okay, whenever the intake valve is fully opened, the rod has no slack, but as soon as pressure gets took off, it can spin.

Positive, , I stuck a screwdriver through the plug hole to find TDC.

Mine aren't hydraulic, just the cam lobe, tappet and push rod. one thing i just noticed, with the valve cover off, the intake valve was slightly depressed, and I was able to spin the push rod between the tappet, and the rocker arm....

IMHO, Go with the wix or napa. Fram has always been a no go for me

Yep, none of that. I just wonder why or what is causing the lifter to tick, i shined my light down in the bore where the pushrods sit, and there was oil on the end of it and the pushrod... i measured their diameter and they were both still in spec, and i lubed them up good when i installed them.... It hasn't gotten any worse since it started at all....

I was watching this project farm video on youtube, () and if you skip to around 11:33, you hear the leaking head gasket? That is almost exactly what that tick noise sounds like....hmmm, or am I just going crazy..... Then again, I have none of the other blown head gasket symptoms.

Wow-weee! That looks NICE!! Did you prelube all the bearings and journals. 😁? I just have to ask.....

I'm going to see if my brother can come look at, he had the head off of his 91 dodge last year, with a ticking sound too. Although there is probably some difference between a a 6 cyl diesel and 1 cyl. Gas. One thing I was thinking about, I had to replace the exhaust side valve adjuster stud and nut, ( I stripped the old one) I wonder if that new adjuster meeting with the worn in valve is causing it.....?

Readjusted the valves, and again I put some assembly lube along the valve springs, rocker arms, end of the pushrod where it goes in the rocker arm, and across the rocker pin. And for awhile that quited it down a bit...... Another crazy thing, I ch anged the transmission fluid in it, and now the differential works!!!, I went through some mud that I normally couldn't go through EASY!

Welcome to UTV Board!!! Another welcome from Texas!!!

Yep, adjusted them 5thou, or.12mm

How do you do that, I adjusted the valve clearance.....

I'd say im 99.99% sure it's something in the cylinder head. But on thing, i noticed the other day whenever i checked the valve clearance , i put a little bit of assembly lube on top of the rockers, and where the pushrods go under the rocker arms, and after that that it quieted down for a little bit.... i may take the pushrod's out and check the ends of them to be sure they're aren't wallered out or anything. I know it is getting good oil flow up there, whenever i ran it without the valve cover after about 4 seconds oil started coming up to the head and on the rockers.... ** you know what, are rocker arms supposed to be able to slide side to side on the shaft?

I don't remembers if I posted it or not, there is a slight tick coming from the head, I took the valve cover off and ran the engine without it for a minute or so, and without the cover it sounds like swoosh swoosh swoosh, but as soon as I place the cover over it, it turns into tick tick tick tick, cover off,swish swish,. I turned the engine over by hand opening and closing both valves, there is no slack in any of the push rods like a lifter isn't seating on the cam etc. I'm not sure if it's something I should find out and address immediately, or keep in check,

I'm about to do the 12hr oil change as stated in the manual, I still have 1/2 a quart of break in oil left,*engine holds 1.5 quarts* I guess would it be okay to to mix that with Valvoline conventional...?

If it takes me tearing into it, I hate to say but I'll just leave it, I know nothing at all about transmission and diffs, I know quite a bit about small engines and lawnmowers, but I stop at transmissions...although there is only one way to learn, I might try reading in the troubleshoot section of my manual.

Pull out the works.....

yes, the mule doesn't have 4wd. Fluid is full. the lever is clear of any obstruction and so is the cable.