New Trooper Power Steering unit

[bigdan120]

I paid around 250.00 for the unit with shipping.....It is the Corsa C model 00-06 like 70.00 for the controller...The BIG hard part of it is trusting the seller to ship!...I had the first one took me a month and a half to get....I was going to buy 5 steering units and controllers and sell them as kits here in the states but being the economy is not good I'm not sure if I should do so...I have 1 more in my possession. I need to get the controller ordered.... I am like the rest of America I would like to make some money on them....LOL There defiantly not a drop in.. The computer box is not sealed.. So silicon and placement I think is critical....It was all inside the car so its not a sealed unit computer wise...I am thinking I would sell for around 400.00...Any thoughts? I prob could make this into a bolt in application but I was hurting on time..SO I slammed it in with a welder lol........IDEAS Welcome.......

Controller ----- http://www.ebay.com/...=item2a227b6750

Steering ----- http://www.ebay.com/...984.m1438.l2649

Watch when you are looking at them the prices are in there currency........A lot wont ship to us so be careful if you buy one without contacting them....!

P.S. Don't for get they come in tilt columns or No tilt....Mine is tilt...

[bigdan120]

Hey Question. I want to make my Trooper turn sharper..I seen somewhere you can but how? It is the rack that controls it correct? And did anybody do it? I don't feel like researching this one...Thanks!

[Kinarfi]

My opinion is NO, the limiting factor is the CV joint, if you jack the front end via the lower pivot point and disconnect either tie rod and turn the wheel and rotate it, you will feel the CV joint starting to bind. The other possibility though is to put a pivoting system on the rear end, have fun and let us know how it works.

Kinarfi

[bigdan120]

Well the steering rack is what does not have the travel to make it turn sharper correct ? Would a longer travel rack fix this Big 2 acre turning radius?

[Guest Lenny]

Yes you can make it steer sharper. MIne steerrs real sharp now. I can do a 180 degree turn and when I measure from the inside wheel outter edge at 0 degrees then at 180 degrees, it's 16 feet across. In other words if you put 2 eight foot sheets of plywood end to end, I can scrape the end on one end and then at 180 degrees be scraping the end on the other end. Yes it is in the rack and pinion. It needs a little more travel. The CV joints can take it ok but you have to watch the tie rod end joints. I had to heat up the arm that the tie ron connects to on the spindle housing and twist it a bit so it wouldn't bind when turning tight. I'm no longer struggling with hair pin turns. It's nice.

Lenny

[bigdan120]

How did you get more travel? Stock steering box or aftermarket?

[nocturnalsixer]

How did you get more travel? Stock steering box or aftermarket?

I believe stock and if I remember correctly, he loosened the jam nut at the forks on ends of rack. He loosen the jam nut then adjusted it from there.

I had heard our stock cv take a lot of angle but the super gorilla or whatever brand I can't remember lol brag being able to have angle of 45 degrees...don't quote me on that though...

Sent from my XT912 using Tapatalk 2

[Guest Lenny]

I'm using a steering rack and pinion out of a smart car. It has a longer travel. I always thought that maybe the stock rack could have a couple of extra teeth cut into it. Then again would have to check if it would seal with the boot on the ends. Kinarfi has my steering rack. Maybe he would send it back to me and i'll try check it out to see if it can be done. YOu can't get it by loosening the jam nuts, you need more rack travel like about 3/4" if I remember correctly.

Lenny

[charlie]

Ok Dan if ur gonna start making and selling power steering for 400$ I'd be interested providing I don't have to do a lot of welding! Lenny if you need more travel couldn't we just as length to the tie tod arm I'm sure it wouldn't need to be much on both sides and then adjust ????

[nocturnalsixer]

Ok Dan if ur gonna start making and selling power steering for 400$ I'd be interested providing I don't have to do a lot of welding! Lenny if you need more travel couldn't we just as length to the tie tod arm I'm sure it wouldn't need to be much on both sides and then adjust ????

Yeah for $400 ill buy too

Sent from my XT912 using Tapatalk 2

[Guest Lenny]

Ok Dan if ur gonna start making and selling power steering for 400$ I'd be interested providing I don't have to do a lot of welding! Lenny if you need more travel couldn't we just as length to the tie tod arm I'm sure it wouldn't need to be much on both sides and then adjust ????

Lengthing the tie rods won't do in. You need need to move the wheels farther in both directions and the only thing that can do that is to have the rack in the steering box travel farther in each direction. Stock, you are limited by the number of teeth on the rack. You simply get to the end of the teeth. Adding a couple of teeth may give you the extra travel needed if the box boots will still work. Machining the teeth in wouldn't be too hard for a tryout.

Lenny

[bigdan120]

Lengthing the tie rods won't do in. You need need to move the wheels farther in both directions and the only thing that can do that is to have the rack in the steering box travel farther in each direction. Stock, you are limited by the number of teeth on the rack. You simply get to the end of the teeth. Adding a couple of teeth may give you the extra travel needed if the box boots will still work. Machining the teeth in wouldn't be too hard for a tryout.

Lenny

Yeah I might try the teeth adding part...And I have to check into making it a bolt in...

[Kinarfi]

I'm using a steering rack and pinion out of a smart car. It has a longer travel. I always thought that maybe the stock rack could have a couple of extra teeth cut into it. Then again would have to check if it would seal with the boot on the ends. Kinarfi has my steering rack. Maybe he would send it back to me and i'll try check it out to see if it can be done. You can't get it by loosening the jam nuts, you need more rack travel like about 3/4" if I remember correctly.

Lenny

If I remember correctly, the teeth on the rack don't have an end stop, you just run out of teeth. There is actually a tooth cut into the threaded part at the ends and it's the jam nut that stops you. I can send the rack back to you or if a photo will do, I'll try to remember to bring it with me the next time we hook up for a ride. Actually, I've been thinking of borrowing rest of the steering box from you so I can rebuild the old power steering unit with oil bathed gear geared down mount instead of the chain we had.

Kinarfi

[Guest Lenny]

There is not an end stop, you just run out of teeth. If I remember correctly, there is room to cut more teeth. Send me a picture with dimensions of length of teeth run.

Lenny

[Kinarfi]

photos of the steering rack
If you want less turn radius, you can run the stop nuts out some more, and maybe get some more by moving the lock nut to the inside. The yokes could be screwed out out a little further and the tie rods shortened to make for it so the wheels don't get a change of toe in. You may have to grind the outer edges of the lock nut off so it slides inside the steering box, that should take up all the play available in the CV Joints. Also remember that the pinion only the center of the rack, so you don't need to cut any more teeth, it's the stop nuts that are protecting the CV joints from getting into a bind.

photo removed, needed the space elsewhere, Kinarfi

[Guest Lenny]

I was thinking that there was some smooth rack shaft after the teeth. The picture shows teeth its entire length. If this is the case then the rack would need to be replaced with a longer one. Something doesn't seem rignt though because I don't remember the teeth sticking past the dirt boot. The boot wouldn't do much good if it has to seal where the teeth are.

Lenny

[Kinarfi]

This is what I remember the boot and the box to be APPROXIMATELY

photo removed, needed the space elsewhere, Kinarfi

[Guest Lenny]

Yeah, I think your right. Probably the easiest thing to do then would be to weld on a little extra length to the rack and cut some extra teeth or just go to a longer rack.

Lenny

[Kinarfi]

more update, after looking at the attached photo I believe the assembled yoke is the correct method for assembly and that the nut does not need to be ground down, it's smaller than the rack.
sorry it takes me so long to get things done
Kinarfi

photo removed, needed the space elsewhere, Kinarfi

[bigdan120]

I feel that this steering unit can be made into a bolt in but, And I say But you are driving cost up. If you have a welder friend it is pretty easily done. you have to remove the old steering bracket that is welded to your frame. gets in way and angle is all off...The way I did it is to weld your old steering shaft from the rack to the new one basically connect your shaft with there universal joint. You have to cut your steering column shaft about at 1inch out . If you would ever want to use it for something else...(If I had to do it again I would have cut it off flush )and cut off right at splines of electric unit and insert your old steering shaft into the power unit and weld it unless you have a better way. Also I took the steering computer apart for little metal tabs ( EASY ) and silicon-ed the perimeter (Light layer) These units were designed to be inside. I also did some on the connections to help seal them. I also used Dielectric greased the plugs real well. You will find the computer that is mounted to the steering column. I removed it and placed it right under the column and bolted it to bottom plastic dash. I ran a hot wire from the winch Hot up to it for power. The one wire on the control kit needs to be wired into your ignition so that it turns on and off with key..We do have an accessory spot on it so just use that wire....Other then that if you remove the Black plastic at the top of the power steering column it fits nice into original place...By the way it is a pain .It is molded around it....Uh don't cut through the hump on top it is part of the aluminum housing with plastic over it....I can get into more detail if needed but I think most on here could do it without any help from little ole me...LOL

P.S. I dont know if the tilt column is needed but is nice to have. But you need to reconfigure the lock for it...I havnt came up with a good one yet.

OH YEAH don't cut the bold hole off on the bottom side of the column that supports the tilt lock bar. Also you can pull it out and put it back in so no worries there....

HAPPY THANKSGIVING!

[bigdan120]

I have a tilt column I don't need I also ordered the control for it so to sell it kind complete.....I have 300.00 in it. Buyer pays shipping if you guys want it. Its already in USA so that's a plus in my book..Its going on E bay for 400.00 ...in a few days...

Thanks!

[charlie]

So Dan how do we get directions for it to install lol and what else is needed after we give u 400

[bigdan120]

I is pretty straight forward. But mine is in so I know a little about it. Plus I will give you more details. I am waiting on the control for it now. I just ordered it Mon. If you have a good welder buddy ( Can weld pretty good cause your life is in his hands) it isn’t bad at all.2 people is key in the positioning. Need some 1/4 inch by I think 1 1/2 by 2 ft and cut weld and drill like 5 holes 5 bolts and 2 spacers.

To answer your question. The directions come with the controller.... I will post a video on here too of mine....If you work on it and don’t think constantly about how to do it a 8 hour day is way more then enough...Figuring out took me awhile.....If you do it the same way I did that will save you time. There always that...Well I could do it this way thing that jumps in...LOL...Need some wiring skills as well as soldering. Plus it is a perfect time to dielectric grease all the plugs to keep moisture out. Now when all said and done I am going to either build a box for storage up front...Or take a piece of rubber like someone did on here and close in the back dash covering the power steering motor...It looks like it is sealed pretty good but still want it closed in.. Happy Thanksgiving!

[bigdan120]

I can tell you guys one thing.....If I was to rate what was the BEST for me to upgrade...WOW power steering...Hands DOWN for me! Crap I can turn! feels like someone took the lead out of it. Hell! Now I can go down the road and steer it back and forth on the road and it actually sways and needs sway bars....LOL

[charlie]

thats awsome Dan glad it worked out and you saved yourself money