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New Trooper Power Steering unit

plumber

By plumber
in Joyner UTV SxS Forum

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rocmoc Grand Master

rocmoc

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Kinarfi, I adjusted mine today using the pdf file that rick sent me. Worked great & was pretty easy. The instructions were exact! If you need the file let me know & I will email to you. It has PICTURES. You pretty much have posted the process in the past. Only additional info was to lift the front wheels off the ground, loosen the bolts on the unit under the gold cover, turn on the power, adjust the sensor slowly until the wheels center, tighten down, turn the key off and on a couple of times to make sure the wheels stay in a neutral position, hot glue and then put the cover back on.

rocmoc n AZ

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Kinarfi Veteran

Kinarfi

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Kinarfi, I adjusted mine today using the pdf file that rick sent me. Worked great & was pretty easy. The instructions were exact! If you need the file let me know & I will email to you. It has PICTURES. You pretty much have posted the process in the past. Only additional info was to lift the front wheels off the ground, loosen the bolts on the unit under the gold cover, turn on the power, adjust the sensor slowly until the wheels center, tighten down, turn the key off and on a couple of times to make sure the wheels stay in a neutral position, hot glue and then put the cover back on.

rocmoc n AZ

Thanks, he already sent them to me, What I do also is to measure the voltage to the motor and adjust for 0 volts to the motor. I plan to tighten my mounting bolts also, may even add another U bolt.

Kinarfi

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Guest Lenny

Guest Lenny

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I thought I posted this before but can't seem to find it anymore. Actually I think I posted it twice but go figure so here it is again. Here is the way I see it. The power steering doesn't know rather the wheels are turned or not, it only see if there is torque being applied to the steering column by sensing if there is a torque relationship between the top and bottom parts of the steering column. When there is no torque, the sensor doesn't send any signal to the controler or is sends a neutral signal. Even if the front wheels are being pushed to turn, if there isn't any thing holding the steering wheel which is on the other side of the sensor, there isn't any torque difference between the top and bottom shaft or maybe a very little bit due to the inherant resistance to turning the componets on the other side of the sensor up to the steering wheel. When adjusting it with everything hooked up, it's hard to detect if any torque differance exist because if there is a small bit of torque detected, the controller doesn't send enough current to the motor to overcome this resistance and it acts as if it is in the neutral position. When adjusting it this way, this feels as if it is centered but it really isn't. I found that the best way to adjust it is to remove the motor, which is real easy to do, and with the motor out, you can visually see if the motor is turning or not without any outside resistance holding it back when at low current. When its not tunning, the sensor is centered. I found it is quite sensitive when trying to get it right in the center, even this way. I feel this makes it easier to find center acurately. I adjusted mine a couple of times the normal way but always found it not to be quite perfect. After doing it this way, it has been absolutely perfect ever since.

PS; Ricksrb doesn't get his dirty because he rides with a cover over it. That is why he is so fast, it is kind of like driving with your eyes closed and just going for it. He is one lucky guy he hasn't hit anything, YET.

Lenny

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rocmoc Grand Master

rocmoc

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What a GREAT MORNING. Went out to deal with the dragging brake master cylinder. First looked everything over and one of my mounting bolts for the power steering unit bracket was hitting the master cylinder rod. Added a couple of washers, have used grade 8 on everything, and brakes FIXED! No need to replace the master cylinder.

BUT just loosening the bolts on the bracket knocked the power steering unit out of neutral again. It seems, mine anyway, if I make any adjustments to the steering anywhere I have to reset neutral. Not a big problem as it is easy but this thing is sensitive!

rocmoc n AZ

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rocmoc Grand Master

rocmoc

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I refined the steering today. I centered the steering wheel perfectly, drilled and bolted the two piece steering shaft together (used stainless steel as I could not find a grade 8 in the size I wanted) & reset the neutral. Steering is pretty GREAT ! I did leave the hot glue out of the adjustment slots this time. I want to see if it makes a diff, my first take is the hot glue is overkill and increases adjustment time. The bolting together of the shaft removed a rattle & some slop, good improvement.

rocmoc n AZ

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2scoops Proficient

2scoops

Posted
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I thought I posted this before but can't seem to find it anymore. Actually I think I posted it twice but go figure so here it is again. Here is the way I see it. The power steering doesn't know rather the wheels are turned or not, it only see if there is torque being applied to the steering column by sensing if there is a torque relationship between the top and bottom parts of the steering column. When there is no torque, the sensor doesn't send any signal to the controler or is sends a neutral signal. Even if the front wheels are being pushed to turn, if there isn't any thing holding the steering wheel which is on the other side of the sensor, there isn't any torque difference between the top and bottom shaft or maybe a very little bit due to the inherant resistance to turning the componets on the other side of the sensor up to the steering wheel. When adjusting it with everything hooked up, it's hard to detect if any torque differance exist because if there is a small bit of torque detected, the controller doesn't send enough current to the motor to overcome this resistance and it acts as if it is in the neutral position. When adjusting it this way, this feels as if it is centered but it really isn't. I found that the best way to adjust it is to remove the motor, which is real easy to do, and with the motor out, you can visually see if the motor is turning or not without any outside resistance holding it back when at low current. When its not tunning, the sensor is centered. I found it is quite sensitive when trying to get it right in the center, even this way. I feel this makes it easier to find center acurately. I adjusted mine a couple of times the normal way but always found it not to be quite perfect. After doing it this way, it has been absolutely perfect ever since.

PS; Ricksrb doesn't get his dirty because he rides with a cover over it. That is why he is so fast, it is kind of like driving with your eyes closed and just going for it. He is one lucky guy he hasn't hit anything, YET.

Lenny

I centered mine on the bench, installed it, took if for a test drive & it started pulling left. So, then I centered it while installed. They are sensitive little buggers.

Rick is the first person to call my Trooper clean...I almost take offense to it ;) . It looks shiny because everything had a fresh coat of paint on it.

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2scoops Proficient

2scoops

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I refined the steering today. I centered the steering wheel perfectly, drilled and bolted the two piece steering shaft together (used stainless steel as I could not find a grade 8 in the size I wanted) & reset the neutral. Steering is pretty GREAT ! I did leave the hot glue out of the adjustment slots this time. I want to see if it makes a diff, my first take is the hot glue is overkill and increases adjustment time. The bolting together of the shaft removed a rattle & some slop, good improvement.

rocmoc n AZ

The only loosness I have now is where the gears mesh in the steering box. When my wife drove it and she commented on how car-like it feels now. I had to ask her to slow down for the occupants sake because she was just flying over the rocks, and I was attempting to take in the scenery.

I didn't notice hardly any assist in with the front locker engaged though, but I tried it only for a second. I rarely use the front locker anymore. I learned the hard way going up Hells Gate that it only causes problems when trying to steer & shift. It turned what should have been a very easy obstical into a difficult one. I just couldn't get on the right line. I have discovered there very few situations where the front locker will make or break me getting through or over an obstical.

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Kinarfi Veteran

Kinarfi

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The only loosness I have now is where the gears mesh in the steering box. When my wife drove it and she commented on how car-like it feels now. I had to ask her to slow down for the occupants sake because she was just flying over the rocks, and I was attempting to take in the scenery.

I didn't notice hardly any assist in with the front locker engaged though, but I tried it only for a second. I rarely use the front locker anymore. I learned the hard way going up Hells Gate that it only causes problems when trying to steer & shift. It turned what should have been a very easy obstical into a difficult one. I just couldn't get on the right line. I have discovered there very few situations where the front locker will make or break me getting through or over an obstical.

The place that I found front lockers most beneficial is when I'm going up steep hills that have alternating dug out holes where one wheel lifts off the ground or has low traction and even more so when coming down and using the engine to keep things slow, I just about had a run away once when coming down a hill and the front tire lost traction which allowed the other to role freely so I picked up speed real quick!!!

Kinarfi

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2scoops Proficient

2scoops

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The place that I found front lockers most beneficial is when I'm going up steep hills that have alternating dug out holes where one wheel lifts off the ground or has low traction and even more so when coming down and using the engine to keep things slow, I just about had a run away once when coming down a hill and the front tire lost traction which allowed the other to role freely so I picked up speed real quick!!!

Kinarfi

Makes sense. We also need to get you more articulation in the front end. When are we gonna do your front shocks?

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  • 3 months later...
ricksrb Mentor

ricksrb

Posted
Posted

Got my power steering This weekend I got a blue wire on it and no instruction all I can find is speed sence wire what did you guys do with this wire

Unit should have three wires if i remember correctly, Positive and negative wires goes straight to battery and the third wire goes to ignition switch.Cant remember if third is blue or not but will check tonight.

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exile Contributor

exile

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I looked closer at some pics and it looks like a different brain box if I can figer out how to get pics on of my install will show. The only thing I could find out about the blue wire was on a rzr site they said it was a seed sence wire it stiffens up the steering with speed but it is optional it works with out hooking up. I got to find out What that wire needs to see to work I think it Would be nice option (yes it is a super atv)

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  • 8 months later...
bigdan120 Rising Star

bigdan120

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Hey guys....I did a power steering upgrade on mine.... I did it with a UK unit ......Works good if I turn it on locked front I could turn it with vise grips on the shaft...Plus I have tilt now..WOOOOOOOOOOO....Pics are posted in gallery... Waiting to see if I am going to do a Quick disconnect..SO steering wheel not on yet.....

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Kinarfi Veteran

Kinarfi

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Yea, I did the same for one of my joint connections, but I had to make a 1 out of two for my pinion to steering unit connection, I had the other shaft like yours turned down so it would fit into the splines, clamped it and then welded it. Is that a photo of their U-Joint?, What brand did you buy?

Thanks,

Kinarfi

http://good-times.we...104110397SjQnwr

Here's photos of my installation on web shots which is going down at the end of the month, they say.

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Guest Lenny

Guest Lenny

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Kinda funny story. It is a Gm Mitsubishi unit...LOL... Made by GM for Vauxhall for a Corsa..Only in the UK that I know of. Yeah I know..LOL Yes it is there Universal joint.. You also need a conversion kit to use this system and it is adjustable for the torque..

Thats what was going to go with. When the one came out here I went with it instead. I assume you are using the seperate controller that mimics the signals normally sent by the ECU on a regular car. What did you have to pay for ith unit. Everyone I looked at was fairly cheap ($150) or so but the shipping was killer from Europe ($400 - $500). Like you said, you can't find them in the states. It's a better unit then what we are running. Did you go with the Corsa 'B' or 'C' one? If I remember correctly one was more reliable then the other but can't remember which. Did you find it on Ebay?

Lenny

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