Quantcast
Jump to content

Rear diff and swing arm

flatbed

By flatbed,
in Joyner UTV SxS Forum

 Share

Recommended Posts

flatbed Collaborator

flatbed

Posted
Posted

I have the rear diff out, have cut all the brakets off the frame. I am lowering the diff 2". This is something that romoc and i have talked about. I have 29 inch tires all the way around so this should give me some good ground clearance. I also have the fuel tank out, it is going to work to get a sump to draw from in the midle of the tank.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • Replies 21
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Kinarfi Veteran

Kinarfi

Posted
Posted

Sounds good, Don't forget to take lots of photos, I assume you're have some welding done on your tank and I would really like to see what you do so that when I get my new tank, I have some ideas on how the modify it before I install it. I did see that it can be mounted higher than it is giving it more room underneath it for what ever mods we make.

Jeff

Link to comment
Share on other sites
flatbed Collaborator

flatbed

Posted
  • Author
Posted

On the rear diff, the brackets to hold the diff have been built and welded in, (4 tabs and 2 pieces of 1 1/2 seemless tubing 180 wall). I cut both the stock brackets and tube off plus the reciever hitch. You can only lower the diff to about the bottom of the frame. The key is you have to be able to get the bolt out of the diff on the front mount by the drive line. when installing the rear-end you want the driveline hooked up before you start tabing it in. I have it so that the bolt will just miss the frame.

P S I recomend not doing this when your better half is around, This is a fairley new car and they might not understand the whole ass-end of the car being cut off. I had some explaining to do.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
rocmoc Grand Master

rocmoc

Posted
Posted

Fortunately, my better 3/4s is use to me modifying anything and everything we have. It is like Tool Time around here, more power. She does not even ask what I am doing, waits tell the end and provides her opinion. 99% of the time she is pleased. The purple walls in my Man Cave is in that 1%, three years and she still tells me she doesn't like it.

Thanks for the details,

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Kinarfi Veteran

Kinarfi

Posted
Posted
Fortunately, my better 3/4s is use to me modifying anything and everything we have. It is like Tool Time around here, more power. She does not even ask what I am doing, waits tell the end and provides her opinion. 99% of the time she is pleased. The purple walls in my Man Cave is in that 1%, three years and she still tells me she doesn't like it.

Thanks for the details,

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

The purple walls in my Man Cave -- makes me think of the movie Failure to Launch and Terry Bradshaw's "special" room. :lol:

You don't do any thing like that do you? and I don't want to know!! :blink:

Link to comment
Share on other sites
flatbed Collaborator

flatbed

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I am trying to figure out if i want to put the extra baracing on the rear diff mounts, the new tubing i used was some good stuff and i made the tabs shorter so there is not as much leverage on them. I think what i am going to do is run a 3rd mount so the diff is suported in 3 spots instead of 2 like they are stock, I will also save weight this way. My fuel tank that is under the seat had a bracket cracked on it. The brackets should be re-inforced with a strut on the top side of the bracket, I will also put some rubber inbetween the mounts for fibration.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
rocmoc Grand Master

rocmoc

Posted
Posted

I agree with three mounts. Spread the weight & any impacts hopefully reducing any chance of cracking or damaging the diff in the future. I even thought about adding a rubber washer in between the diff and mount something like you would find on a motorcycle gas tank.

rocmoc n AZ/Mexico

Link to comment
Share on other sites
flatbed Collaborator

flatbed

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have modified the fuel tank under the seat, what i did was put a new sump in the middle of the tank, it is 1 1/2 inch lower with the suction and return line returning to it. Drilled 6 3/4" holes in the tank where the sump is, the sump is 8" x 8". One thing that i noticed is that the two rear mounts hold all the weigth of the tank so i moved those mounts rearward as far back on the tank as i could. I will take some pictures and figure out how to show them to you guys. Has anybody had a rear-end apart, it is no problem doing it since i have it out, just wondering if i should take it apart and have a look.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Kinarfi Veteran

Kinarfi

Posted
Posted

When my locker wouldn't engage, I took it in for repair and I got to see what was inside the locker and how it worked, pretty interesting, but if you look, it'll probably cost you a gasket and oil which you'll probably want to change anyway. If you do, take photos. If you (you and all of us) are interested, I will create a site under the name of Trooper folks and share the pass word so we all can upload photos to OUR site. Heck I'M going to just do it, I'll PM the pass word to each of you who want it. Just let me know if you do.

Jeff

Link to comment
Share on other sites
brostar Proficient

brostar

Posted
Posted
When my locker wouldn't engage, I took it in for repair and I got to see what was inside the locker and how it worked, pretty interesting, but if you look, it'll probably cost you a gasket and oil which you'll probably want to change anyway. If you do, take photos. If you (you and all of us) are interested, I will create a site under the name of Trooper folks and share the pass word so we all can upload photos to OUR site. Heck I'M going to just do it, I'll PM the pass word to each of you who want it. Just let me know if you do.

Jeff

Good idea Kinarfi, count me in.

Cheers Mike.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Detbohica Collaborator

Detbohica

Posted
Posted
When my locker wouldn't engage, I took it in for repair and I got to see what was inside the locker and how it worked, pretty interesting, but if you look, it'll probably cost you a gasket and oil which you'll probably want to change anyway. If you do, take photos. If you (you and all of us) are interested, I will create a site under the name of Trooper folks and share the pass word so we all can upload photos to OUR site. Heck I'M going to just do it, I'll PM the pass word to each of you who want it. Just let me know if you do.

Jeff

I like this idea also, one day I will get brave to make some mods and such. After a year or so with the quad my wife would find me in the back patio with parts everywhere, and ask what are you doing. Good question because I really didn't know, but after enough times you kind of get the hang of it. I hope to make some with the Trooper, and I definently can provide pics of what not to do the first time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
flatbed Collaborator

flatbed

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Finished relocating the rear diff. the diff is now even withthe bottom of the frame. I removed the lower shock mount and put a suport across so that the shock mount was leval. (my shock mounts where giving up) I put them back in the same spot, but raised them about 3/8 of a inch.

Took the rear diff apart to see the inside, i was surprised to see that it is actually a pretty good part. The pion gear has alot of teeth so you are ingageing more that one tooth into the ring geaar. It has roller bearing on both sides of the ring gear carrier. The locker works with a slide colar. There are no gaskets, they use o-rings in the case halfs. The outer seals on the axle shafts could be replaced with out taking the case out of the car.

The fuel tank is also back in the trooper. It has a new sump in the middle of the tank on the bottom. Both suction and return are mounted there. It is in a baffled area so that the return is feeding the suction when you are in a bad spot. One thing i noticed after i got everything back together on the fuel system is that it would not prime its self untill i bleed the suction line, then it picked the fuel right up. My pump is laying flat and i am wondering if it needs to be stood up so the air gets out.

I have pictures of all of this and will get it mounted.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Kinarfi Veteran

Kinarfi

Posted
Posted

Fuel tanks, When the brackets on my fuel tank broke, I floated on styrofoam, blocked it with wood, padded it with plastic and in general lost it's ground (electrical) so I ran a clip from frame to to the filter clamp, this corrected some problems I was having with my gas gauge and also drains off any static charges that may develop. Still waiting for my new tank.

Flatbed, did you take any photos of your fuel tank modifications?

Thanks

Jeff

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Similar Topics

    • Steve Vanvelzen
      Rear gear case cracked...any ideas....how, and what to do?
      By Steve Vanvelzen
      I have a 2021 Massimo T-Boss 550 which now has a crack in the rear gearcase. A few weeks ago during my usual fluid checks I noticed that the gear oil was very low and there was an oil film on the outside of the case on the side where the plug is. I topped up and cleaned it up. I assumed the the bolt was not sealing properly so I ran it as usual and same thing again and again. So then I was thinking that maybe I need a new washer or something. I cleaned the outside of the casing and was about to top up the oil when low and behold.......I noticed a crack across the top right side. OMG, this thing is only a year old. Any ideas out there on how this would happen and most importantly....how can I fix it?
      Any advice would be appreciated because as we all know on this forum it is hard to get shops to work on these wonderful machines. And if I need parts, wish me the best of luck.
    • lonerider98
      2013 Coleman ut500 Heat coming from the rear
      By lonerider98
      I have a 2013 Coleman ut500. When riding I get a lot of heat coming from behind the seats. Has anyone put some kind of heat shield to stop this heat? It get quite warm on long rides! T.I.A.
    • Anthony Butler
      2009 Joyner Trooper 1100 T2 diff cable removal
      By Anthony Butler
      So my rear diff lock cable is seized on a 2009 trooper 1100 T2 . How do i remove the end that goes into the diff ? 
    • Lombobob
      2022 Zforce Sport 950 rear suspension grease fittings
      By Lombobob
      The 2022 Zforce Sport user manual shows to grease fittings on the rear suspension stabilizer bar. I can't find them. Was there a design change that eliminated the rear grease fittings?
    • eManualOnline
    • amautv
      Coleman 550- issues with One Way Bearing/idling
      By amautv
      1 1/2 years ago I was riding along in my 2018 Coleman 550 Outfitter when the CVT belt broken.  Just prior to that I was having some shifting issues that I now understand can be part of the clutch. Finally a few months ago I sent it in to a shop who put in a new belt as well as a new wet clutch (drum, one way bearing, etc and an oil change) He fired it up and it turned on fine, sounded fine and I took it home. It was an auto shop but not a UTV specific shop. So get it home and after a half hour or so it started making some noises with my 10 year old driving it around. I get home and he said theres noises again and I played around a bit. Within a short bit of trying to drive it around I started having noises that I now understand was my One Way Bearing being destroyed. Aka metal noises from the bearing falling apart.   Of course, after the cost of $800 to take it to a shop plus $200 in gas, trailer rental etc to take it in and back (it was a friends shop that was a bit of ad istance) I was quite ticked and pushed the UTV back into my garage and left it for a while.  Then this past weekend i watched a bunch of Youtube videos along with a mechanic friend to pull things apart.  We found the spindle was loose, opened it up further and found the one way bearing fell apart in my hand and the little bearings were already worn, no longer round and this was from less than a hour of use. THerefore leading me to believe it had very quick failure after the new wet clutch was put in.  We looked things to look for damage further.  Nothing really scratched/grooves etc so I ordered a new OEM bearing and we put it in, sealed it back up, followed the specs of everything and was 110% sure we put the One Way Bearing in correctly.    We rode it around for a hour, sounded fine.   Next day used it, sounded fine for a half hour.   Third day I turned it on and let it idle a little bit and found that I was hearing metal scraping again like I did right after getting my utv back from the shop.  Therefore I am 99% certain the One Way Bearing is about to break again (already breaking)   Its a brand new OEM belt.  Nothing looks off on the spindle.   I do not know for sure if the shop touched the inner race for which, in my understanding, the One Way Bearing spins. I know I may be sounding ignorant here.  I am not a mechanic by any means but I have learned a bit with the recent Youtube videos and attempted repairs.  Whatever that "ufo" looking object is, we replaced the bearings (those black things that spin) I replaced the whole "Ufo" lol... as the original had some wear/tear that prevented it from spinning perfect. Nothing currently
      visibly looks off... and the issue is mostly when the machine is more in an idle.  It was at an idle when the One Way Bearing sorta went kaput the last time.  THe noises is at an idle... but if I can get it drive, its fine.  It also affects the ability to shift the gears. 

      I know I will have to replace the One Way Bearing again... I just dont know what might cause the issue that is destroying the bearinga nd so quickly.   Again, this all started when the belt snapped when I was going about 15 mph down a road on a warm day.  It has higher miles.  The wet clutch was in bad shape and its replaced.   The paperwork says "wet clutch assembly kit")   Is there something that the belt can do to cause damage that might not be as visible but would directly create an issue that lets the bearing get ate right up?? Help me!  I hate this machine and I really want it to run well ... so I can sell it and find something else  haha..

  • Gallery Images

Shop UTV batteries at ChromeBattery.com


UTV FORUMS

MORE SECTIONS

FOLLOW US ON

GET IN TOUCH

  • Automotive Webmaster
×
×
  • Create New...