It won't come out!
-
Similar Topics
-
By BOYD
I have a 2004 KUBOTA RTV 900 DIESEL and I need to replace both front cv axels.I have been online looking at them and there seems to be a lot of different manufactures to choose from. My question is who makes a good aftermarket set of cv axels for this KUBOTA. I have read horror stories of people buying the cheap Chinese brand only to find out they don't fit or they don't last very long and fail again. I hate to have to spend over $200 a shaft to get OEM from KUBOTA when I'm sure there is a company out there who probably makes it for them or makes comparable to OEM. Thanks for your help.
-
By didgeridoo
Hello, All! I've decided to replace the traction batteries in my 2018 Sector E1 with a 48V Lithium set. They may be expensive, but I figure the Discovery Dry Cell are, too. I am not looking for the max driving range, as I have never received near the brochured range to begin with, but a good mix of charge/ get work done/ charge is what I am expecting.
I have settled on the 48V EAGL kit from bigbattery dot com. Each battery pack provides 30Ah. The kit ships with a charger, as well. The packs would be physically connected in parallel (using a busbar) to one another, maintaining the 48V voltage, but together would be able to provide the amp draw the buggy pulls when going up hill or towing a rake (rated 320 max continuous Amps). This is in comparison to the serial connection the eight 6V lead batteries. Each of the EAGL batteries looks to have its own BMS; am I correct in thinking I will have to use their included charger rather than (simply) changing the onboard charger to lithium mode? The chemistry of the pack is LiFe PO4, for what it's worth. I haven't torn anything apart yet (to diagram), so I am not sure how the dash will interpret the AMP draw, but the kit I am looking at includes a dash mounted charge indicator.
If anyone has completed a similar conversion, do you have any tips? Specifically, how did you remove the original batteries, and how did you secure the new ones? I am guessing that almost any change from the stock batteries would involve at least some modifications. Any tips would be appreciated, especially things I may have failed to consider. Thanks!
-
By CYJSP2009
Dear Friends,
2022 Brand new Joyner CV Axles and CV Joint rebuild kits are comming
1. S650.03.02.02.00 ---Joyner 650 Commando Rear
2. TR1100.03.01.03.00 --- Joyner Trooper Front
3. TR1100.03.02.03.00 --- Joyner Trooper Rear
4. D650.03.02.02.00 --- Joyner 650 Sand Spider Rear Left
5. D650.03.02.03.00--- Joyner 650 Sand Spider Rear Right
6. SV800.03.02.01.00 --- Joyner 800 Viper, SV1100 Drive shaft Left
7. 14274 --- 650 ider rear left, rear right, 800 MV; 800Viper, SV1100 Drive shaft rear left and rear right outer cv joint rebuild kit
8. 15803 --- 650 Sand Spider rear left, rear right, 800 MV; 800Viper, SV1100 Drive shaft rear left and rear right outer cv joint rebuild kit
Attached are the part photos for reference.
Above parts are now on the way to USA, will be ready for inland delivery in middle of July.
Price: CV Axle: USD250/ Piece; CV Joint kit (without grease): USD110 send to door.
There will be special discount availabe for deals completed within July 2022.
Buy 1 piece: Get 5% discount,
Buy 2 pieces: get 10% discount.
Buy 3 pieces: get 15% discount,
Buy 4 and more than 4 pieces: get 20% discount.
Please kindly note Qty for each part is not big and it is hard to forcast when there will be next offer for these kind of products unless there is sufficient confirmed order qty for productioin arrangement.
Payment method: Payoneer payment link ( can pay through bank account or credit card) or Paypal ( [email protected]) . Payment commission paid by the buyer.
Interested parties, please contact [email protected].
Thanks
Good Luck
Casey / Leaf Asia
July-07-2022
-
By Xov
Just received delivery of a 2024 AMP Pro. Thought I'd start a thread with my impressions as I use it and learn more. There doesn't seem to be a whole lot of real-world usage information out there on this model. Hope this will help others as they research.
Intended Use Cases
Fire mitigation / slash removal from a 5 acre forested and well-gamble-oaked property. The previous owners thought as much about fire mitigation as I do about fashion: not much. Snow removal Stump pulling General hauling (rock, lumber, etc.) Weimaraner energy depletion. Wasn't an original use case, but a nice added bonus. Experiences So Far
Wasn't impressed that two of the bumpers on the underside of the bed where it sits upon the frame were missing. The metal on metal contact has damaged the powder coating and the frame. I expect a little better QC.
I've only put a few hours on it, so not a ton to report on usage. It isn't quiet; it's silent. I can't even detect an electric note from the motor. I removed (and subsequently replaced) the motor cover noticed that the motor is German and made by Schambuller. The motor controller is Italian and made by Dana TM4. Given the operating specs of both I found on the web, I suspect both are higher quality than the previous Navitas (which is supposed to be decent). The motor is rated at 25 hp and 71.5 lb-ft of torque. It feels very powerful. All the torque is delivered instantly, if desired.
The bed is huge and has an electric dump as standard. Great feature but would like it to go up a bit more. Probably not feasible from an engineering perspective, but I want and I need ;).
Power steering is nice, but vague. Probably common to many UTVs, but I am accustomed to more direct results from input. Plan early and plan often.
In our first full day of usage, we hauled about 1/2 as much slash as the entire rest of the year when I was doing it by hand cart. I may get fatter, but I'll also get more done. After a few days of usage, the battery meter has gone down by 1/10th.
Until next time...
-
By moonrover
Mine is overheated/burned/melt at connection with its wire connector, parts are ordered to replace both them. This seems to be a common issue, and some of you already replaced it. I right now just connect the wires, so the fan runs all the time whenever the initiation is on, but it's better let fan runs as needed with a working temperature sensor/switch.
Question: Does some coolant come out by removing the switch/sensor from radiator? Or, is the threaded hole all the way inside radiator? If the answer is yes, I want to drain or extract some coolant to make its level below the sensor before replacing it, so I don't make a mess with coolant spilled out
Thank you.
-
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.