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Just to confirm: It ran OK when stopped for gas. When turn key to start, no noises, no clicks, no nothing. Q1: Does the dash light up as normal with the key in the "on" position? Q2: If you use a wire to jump 12v to the starter solenoid, will the starter turn then? (Careful, be sure it doesn't take off on you if it starts). Sounds like there is a safety interlock issue if it is not a blown fuse which you can easily check first. With the fuel pump running as expected and I'll assume the dash lights up, but you get no response of any kind when turning key to start, I'd suspect some sensor is not in the "go mode". Most of these UTVs require the the gear shift and trans to be in neutral position to allow the starter to turn. Is the gear position indicator on the dash showing "N" or neutral? Is the gear shift position sensor switch loose or inoperative? That would certainly account for the symptoms you described.

Can both of you provide battery voltage? 12.43 will not do in many cases. Would like to see 12.6 V DC Put leads on battery while cranking. Post voltage reading while cranking. Pull spark plug and see if it is wet after you hear fuel pump activate. If plug is not wet...... Squirt a little fuel directly into throttle body and let us know if it starts. Charge batteries to 12.6 min. Post results, both of you please

Mine is doing the same thing. Can hear fuel pump when I turn the key. Checked spark plug and it's getting fire. I tried a new fuel injector and still nothing. Guess I will put a new fuel filter and try fuses, although fuses don't look blown.

I’d recommend checking out the utv windshield, they offer durable polycarbonate options that handle high winds, dust, and off-road impacts really well. Their windshields are scratch-resistant, provide great clarity, and are designed for extreme conditions. I’ve seen good feedback on their fit and toughness, especially for rough terrain.

I have a Massimo MSU 500. And a CF MOTO CF600...Trust me you will save money by spending the Xtra $1k. ..There is no comparison in the quality of the 2..I spent over $3k in the first year keeping the MSU 500 useable..I have had the CF600 for 2 1/2 yrs and have spent nothing but gas money..even my oil change was free from dealer..yes, dealer...there is one ..unlike Massimo selling at big box stores and refusing any warrenty claims..

Hi, my 2010 Hisun will crannk but comes to a stop and only clicks. It has new battery and solinoid. Battery connections all seem good. Any ideas what the problem is?

In my opinion yes..QUALITY..I have a Massimo and I have a CF MOTO c force..there is no comparison . The CF is 5 times the quality

I am seriously considering an AMP also, for general use on a 400 acre farm, so keep the update coming please.

Checked for spark?

Good hunting

2018 Massimo MSU 700 EFI. I realize that this engine is essential the same as in all of the HISUN based Yamaha clones out there. I am in the process of performing a top end diagnosis/rebuild. I have an AMAZON top end rebuild kit on order in anticipation of this activity. Question 1: When exploring the myriad of top end rebuild kits on the market for these units there are some cylinder assemblies that have "686 cm3" badging next to the cam cain tensioner boss. Others compatible with the unit do not have this badging. The existing cylinder assy does not have the 686 badging. I am assuming that this simply verifies that the cylinder assy is for a 686 cm3 engine which of course the stock 700 series HISUN engines are. Am I missing something here or is this just a manufacturer artifact? With or without the badging the application listings all indicate compatibility with the MSU 700 series engines. Question 2: I have reviewed at minimum a dozen videos associated with this rebuild. To date I have not found one that deals with piston/cylinder clearance and/or ring gap verification. The advertised specifications for these various "top end rebuild kits" all indicate: Cylnider bore = 102mm and piston diameter=101.5mm. The math yields a .5mm (as in 1/2 mm) difference. That seems to be a very large piston/cylinder clearance. I realize I am referencing advertised specs rather than emperically measured values but the numbers have gotten my attention. I have referenced the FSM and found it to be somewhat confusing in this regard. Hopefully the experts on this forum can enlighten me as to where my observations are faulty here. Any and all assistance is greatly appreciated . Thank you all in advance, Chile

Riding out today it acted like it ran out of gas, stalled and died and would not start. Towed back to house, New plug added this past month, plenty of oil, getting plenty of gas, battery cranks good. Trys to kick in and starts but doesnt. Two days prior while sitting at a idle it died. Added gas and it started did my ranch chores with it. But just now it stalled out cranks but will not start. Tried to find if fault codes came up on the clock like manual says but not sure I am doing that right. Any and all help apprecated. Thank you

Mine is CVT trans too but still has a wet clutch. The CVT is belt drive between 2 sheave pullies that move in a nd out to change drive ratio to axles

I have dome that before too..but I was afraid the cheap filter would just tear if I did that. Then what? I just don't get why it was so tight. An 18 inch breaker and a 2ft pipe ? Dam that's tight.and I put it on myself, I oiled the seal first and put it on by hand, no wrench so wtf? Oh well ,it's done..

Has anyone installed the power dump on a Kioti K9? If so, does it eliminate the safety lock? Does it work well? Thanks for your input

Fuel pump is good (i hotwired it) swapped relay with known good one no help. I'm leanin towards ECU but cannot find wiring diagram online. Dont know how fuel pump relay gets its signal, all fuses good, any help?

I just started using Mobil1 4t motorcycle oil 10w40 in my Bighorn 550,it doesnt have wet clutches but the oil is rated for wet clutch,mine lubricates gearbox and engine with a cvt

I have a 2020 Sector 750, and it shows 700-7 on startup.

I have a Bobcat 2200 Diesel (built by Club Car) with a 2-weight Team Primary Clutch I want to rebuild, possibly replace. The clutch has an annoying rattling sound at idle and appears the rollers and weights are worn and loose. When I opened it up, everything looks clean and in great shape. It's just that all the moving rollers and weights seem to have way too much play in them, possibly causing the noise. I've searched for clearance and torque specifications with no luck at all. The UTV has less than 500 hours on it. Any ideas?

Thanks for the clarity, yes I agree seems to be internal.

I took the cover off and the linkage and everything looked fine. I then shifted it by putting plyers on the shifter shaft and did not get low or neutral. I concluded that the shifter and linkage was not the issue, but something internally.

I'm not understanding, if you took the cover off and the gears are fine then it sounds to me that the linkage is out of alignment. You could try disconnecting the linkage and manually move it or try shifting into gears with both the engine running and off.

With the shifter open it does not shift, it has to be something internally. I was just hoping someone has seen this before.

Hello Looking for source information for a Landmaster Bulldog BD 700 doors and/or enclosure. Anyone out there with a source please let me know. thanks Jim

What could cause 700 2008 super mach to be like it's in limp mode I have replaced stator ecu 4x4 actuator ignition every thing electrical besides lock in and out 4x4 switch and wiring harness and it still blinks the gas light on and will not kick in 4x4 and gets to about 4500 rpm goes limp mode while in gear or not but idles perfect and only has 357 miles on it