All Activity

Don't have much good to say about Massimo but my 2014 MSU500 still has the original battery.

Yes! The U1 battery format is one of the shortsighted design issues in the 550 series. It is completely unsuitable for a UTV, but that is the hand we are dealt.I assume that you use the same battery in your 410. Just buy the biggest and best unit that will fit in the tray. I bought an AGM 350 CCA battery from Amazon. (ASIN: B0CKSKHDM6) There may be others that fit in that space, but my issue was resolved using the Sealed AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) construction rather than the flooded lead acid design. And NEVER buy a N-EVERSTART battery from the Big Wally if you want to get home! 🏁

Yeah, mine is a Linhai platform. I don't have much time on it, but it's been reliable. I have had some starting issues, but I believe that's battery related.

While I can fully understand Joe B's unhappy experience and his recommendation to go elsewhere, I believe that his unit is/was a HiSun. Those units have been shown to be very suspect, and Massimo was way undercapitalized to support the dealer network and their customers. On the other hand, my 2020 T-Boss 500-F (with the steel box w/dropdown sides) is a Linhai chassis. Except for a few design quibbles (front hood access, oil change mess, inadequate hitch mount and excessive reach with the steel box, overly bright display at night, etc), I have found that the Linhai version to be a solid, reliable, entry-level SXS. I've had the steering wheel loosen up (6 Phillips head screws) and the windscreen brackets needed realignment. I also replaced the 300 CCA U1 Lead acid battery that was OEM, with a 350 CCA AGM U1 battery. That solved the occasional cold start stall and kick back against the starter. The OEM flooded lead acid battery is just too small. Works OK in my lawnmower, though. 😒 I use mine for general banging around my land that has somewhat rough terrain, and I am also equipping as a fast-response vehicle to fight remote wildland fires. Bottom line is that I wouldn't ever consider buying a used 2019 or earlier Massimo or any other brand that uses the HiSun chassis of any vintage. 🏁

Well, the dealer has had my 750 for seven weeks now for a number of issues that he has been putting off. Not a happy camper! However I was told that Hisun felt it was possibly an MCU problem and it was swapped out while it was in a no start condition. It seemed to run OK, so the original was put back in and they had a no start condition once again. They then replaced the MCU and felt that there might be an internal intermittent connection to one of the connector pins that was the cause of the codes and running issues. I hope to get my 750 back very soon and if it passes MY smell test, I will call this issue fixed at that time.

Just got mine today! Also wondering about speakers...

A new belt fixed our weird lag issues. The kids ran the go kart all day yesterday, no problem. Then it started doing this... Any idea what would cause the clutch to grab so aggressively like that??

Dear Joyner owners, If you can not source Joyner parts like cables, cv axle parts, differential, differential parts, engine parts... from other source, please try to contact us at [email protected]. Thanks Best regards Casey 2024-04-26

When the kids hit the gas, I can see the front clutch pulley trying to engage the belt. But all it does is burn up the belt. I have ordered some new belts on Amazon that will be here in a couple days. But what else could be going on that the belt is not properly engaging? There's no WD40 or any grease on it. Only difference is I tried riding it (290 lbs).

There's no brake switch. The shift lever just operates a lever on the engine case, purely mechanical.

So when push hard on the brake and I mean hard it will go into reverse. Is there a brake switch that could be going bad or Do you all think it's a adjustment fro the shift cable? I haven't had a lot of time to really get into this. just picking brains right now. Thanks for any help!!

https://youtube.com/shorts/1JEi9hdW7Jo?si=5_RwP_DUkgytTYFF The brake sounds awful! But works WAY better than our American Landmaster TW450.

So the new motor is on the go kart! Fix-a-flat in the dry rotted tires. It ran great till I got on it... Now the kids can run full throttle and the belt never catches. It smelled like burnt rubber when I rode it (I weigh a good bit more than they do). I'm going to assume, with the condition of the tires and all other rubber parts, that the belt just needs to be replaced. But if you have any ideas of what else could cause a belt to go from traction to no traction in just a few minutes, please let me know... If we can get the kinks out and end up with a reliable go kart after this predator motor swap, we'll do the same thing with the side-by-side!

Well, I'm sorry I never saw your response, WB. We tried every alternative engine mounting technique I could think of, but nothing worked. So, after seeing a YouTube video with the same engine swap, we took the rear axle to our local mechanic who used his air hammer to help loosen up all those stubborn parts so we could move the belt closer to the motor and chain on the outside. It actually worked! If you compare this photo to the last one I posted, you can see the difference.

Thanks for your help, Aefron. Sorry to keep you waiting, but I've been down with my old back. To answer your questions: yes, I do have a volt meter. I checked for spark by taking the plug wire off the plug, inserting a screwdriver into the wire, and holding it close to the aluminum on motor while cranking. I then pulled the plug, attached the plug wire, and grounded it while cranking. There was a spare plug in the buggie when I got it, so I swapped the plugs and tried again-- all to no avail. I'm quite sure the ignition switch is right, electrically, because the three wires were the same color as those on the loose wire I mentioned. The engine not only turns over, but the dash lights, blinkers, and the headlights all work with the key on. Thus, I believe it's the correct one. Now here's the mystery to me. These old eyeballs of mine could not find a fuse on the positive side of the battery cable, but since it's turning over, don't that tell me that fuse is ok? Concerning the fuse box, I only found one fuse blown. It was a 5A, so I assume it's for something of very low voltage. It's difficult for me to look down it there, but I think the blown 5A fuse is F4, whatever that means. The mystery continues for me in that I don't know if the larger, black, box-like objects in the fuse box are fuses that I'm unaware of. I searched feverishly online for a pic of the fuse box showing what is what, but failed to find one. I pulled on one, but it didn't come out, and I feared tearing something up by pulling harder. I had charged the battery before I started all of this, and I recharged it again--so it is still very hot. The plug looks new, and the one I found in the buggie doesn't. Man, I just want you to know your help is greatly appreciated. Knowing you have taken so much of your valuable time to help me get the buggie running is not overlooked.

I have a 2018 TW450E that runs in my yard and slow good just will not go down the road seems to be running out of fuel where should i start? I have replaced both fuel and air filter drained gas and tried a small auxiliary tank same issue i have ordered a new vacuum fuel pump to try next anyone in Texas that works on these?

I have a Bennche 700 EFI Bighorn. I’ve recently been unable to get it to start. After a little troubleshooting I realized my fuel pump was not pumping fuel. This weekend I emptied the gas and replaced it with new. I replaced the fuel pump, fuel filter and fuel injector. I also replaced the battery, spark plug and made sure all my fuses and relays were good. I have confirmed that the float on the fuel pump is not obstructed. The UTV is about 12 years old and has less than 100 hours on it. It has not run in over a year. Not sure whats going on?!? After doing a little reading I'm leaning towards it being an issue with the ECU or perhaps a faulty wire in the wiring harness. Anyone have any ideas on where to start looking or what I could be dealing with? Any help is appreciated, thanks in advance!

I've discovered the part number in question schematic callout (210-253) is actually 280-62358-08.

The needle adapter shown in the first post makes it so you don't need to be straight perpendicular like with a traditional grease gun coupler, You need to make sure you're buying the blunt type like that, there are also sharp needles meant for piercing rubber in ball joints, etc. With the blunt needle adapter you basically shove it into the check ball. It does make a bit more of a mess than a normal coupler, but it does fit. The driveshaft zerks are certainly have limited clearance. The other option is a small grease gun that just fits on top of the zerk without coupling. You can see one pictured in the "rear driveshaft" pic Something like this

Ok so lets start off simple on the instructions I posted above. I'm assuming you have a Volt/Ohm meter, if not you'll need to get one. If you find something wrong in any of these steps rectify, and then try starting again. Just so we're clear, how are you checking for spark and determining that you don't have one? Are you sure you have the key wired up correctly to the proper terminals? -First check all the fuses. There is a fuse on the positive battery cable. The remaining fuses are inside the box forward of the battery under the seat. Remove the cover (4 Philips screws) and check each fuse for continuity. -If those are all good, next step is check the battery. Should have 12.5V or more. If it doesn't charge it. -Next step is to inspect the plug, make sure it is clean, not fouled, and gapped properly. If it's still in new condition, and not soaked in gas it's likely OK. Let me know the answers to above, and confirm all those steps are complete with no resolution.

Well guys, I find myself in the same position of the Ethiopian eunuch of Acts chapter 8: I don't understandeth what I readeth. LOL Concerning my buggy not firing, if I go online and google buggies (in general) not firing, will it be the same as mine: at least, as long as they are fired by a stator? As I confessed in my first comment I'm not much of a mechanic on these machines. In reality, mechanicing passed me by when they got away from points and condensers. With that statement one can quickly ascertain I'm no young whipper snapper. LOL Thanks for any help.

likely running extremely rich, Best guess would be failed O2 sensor, but thats just a guess. I believe those models are likely carbed vs fuel injected, so let me know if thats incorrect. Likely your carberateur jet setting is wrong, or the choke is stuck on. Have you ever cleaned it? Could you post a pic or model info of the carb I'm not sure what type the older models even have?

Spark plug keeps fouling. after 10-15 minutes of running any ideas what to look fore

I replaced mine with an adjustable switch.We tested oem and it did not engage fan til over 230 degrees F. This is why it blew headgaskets and the heat in the cab was unbearable.Set new switch to come on at 180 *F. Cab is much cooler and no more boil overs.

DO NOT BUY MASSIMO OR ANYTHING HISUN... you have been warned. You will regret it. They are Chinese junk..