Ben1098

Remove the spark plug. Rotate the engine until the piston is at the top of travel by using a copper wire (soft 10 AWG with rounded end down) and watch the travel up and down. When very close to TDC, the piston will stop going up and "stall" for a bit and then start to fall back down. Rotate "between these two positions" and you have TDC. Easier said than done. A dial indicator can also be used if you have the set up. Getting into the fan side is a pain with the cover.....bolt screw nut inserts usually "spin". Easiest is to take off the belt cover exposing the drive clutch pulley. On the rim of the pulley you can make an narrow ink mark (or tape with a ink pen line). Do the rock back and forth to find the "going up" and the "going down" location on the case. Mark the two locations. In the middle is TDC. Also, try to see if you can find the timing marks noted in the service manual and mark both with paint for future use. I had a simple trick (POSTED) to hold the chain in place and keep it from falling off the crank sprocket when installing the cam gear.....string pulled for a 3rd hand. I like to do a double check after timing the cam and then rotate to the OVERLAP (EXHAUST VALVE closing and INTAKE VALVE just opening) at the other TDC than Compression. Always rotate slowly by hand to check for valve interference. If something is wrong, you don't bend any valves. Rotate the decompression flyweights against the spring return to avoid being fooled by the cam's AUTO decompression mini-cam/button hitting the cam follower.

Pull spark plug and check the tip color. If it is lean, it will be WHITE after a run. Correct F/A mix will be a light rusty tan color. Too rich F/A mixture will be fuzzy black (Wet fuzzy if real bad and fouls easily). Too lean will be a blistered white tip....bad for engine. Start here...read the plug. Do a compression check. Compression gauge is nice but a simple finger covering the spark plug hole while cranking (WOT) tells the tale. Your finger will "blow off" with a nice pop (might even get an air flow burn-heat up fingertip) with good enough compression. A shot of starter fluid will "help" overcome a lean burn starvation problem. Pull airbox lid and give a short burst to the air intake (filter). If lean, engine should recover with the extra fuel source. You have the hanging fuel box that is just a gravity feed fuel supply. People forever hook them up wrong with the 2 fuel and single crankcase pulse lines. There is an excellent post (color) on this forum that shows the diagram for the tubing connections. The fuel pump has the pulse line that moves the diaphragm that pumps the fuel thru the internal check valve flaps. The other 2 ports are IN (from fuel tank) and OUT (to the hanging fuel box). The hanging fuel box has an IN (from fuel pump), and 2 OUT ports. The excess fuel is returned to the unit's under seat fuel tank and holds the fuel level in the hanging tank to about HALF FULL. The other OUT is the fuel line to the carb. The height of the fuel level ABOVE the carb bowl is what creates, by gravity, the pressure required to fill the carb bowl. I never liked this system as it worked fine on level ground but climbing out of a wash, the tank "height above the carb=pressure" is reduced as the machine is tilted to the sky on climb out......exactly when your fuel demand is the highest......fuel in the carb bowl drops resulting in a lean powerless hard climb out of the wash or steep up hill grades. I would sub a low pressure electric fuel pump on units and golf carts and have the added BONUS of having a "filled" carb at startup.......none of this crank.crank.crank.crank to finally get fresh fuel after a heat soak or sitting for a day or 3. Procure (bike shop sale item) or make a "test tank". It is just a plastic bottle/ shut off valve/fuel line hose that is hung above the carb and looks like an drip (medical) IV......without the infusion pump. Gets around any fuel delivery problems from diesel "mix", water slop from phase separation in OH fuel, all the way to the carb fuel nipple. Another problem is fuel line/tubing "crumbs" that break off on pulling and reinstalling old hose can clog or "restrict" the flow also. Blockage being between the carb fuel IN nipple and the float assy internals. EXAMPLE: A person bought a new plastic gas can....did NOT look inside before using. Ford 2000 could run all day BUT only last 3 minutes with a little 5' Bushhog. He let it "cool down" and it would restart only to repeat the death throes. He had $$$$$$$$$$$ in fixing the electrical system only to find out it fixed nothing with using the Bushhog. Plastic drill pigtails from the drilling of the gas can's vent hole (old style can) was poured in to the Ford's fuel tank (gravity feed system) and restricted the fuel flow at the water bowl filter. OUCH!!!!!!!! Happy Hunting.

Just a idea about an senior and good aftermarket charging system company that has salvaged some new sales failures for a friend. Charging system puked in a few hours after purchase. That takes the shine off of a new unit. Rick's to the rescue. Design wise, the stator is made "light" on the windings so the regulator can be lower cost build....i.e.....cheap as is the "power runs in the OEM harness. The regulator used is a waste excess charging current system. The excess current is shunted to ground over and above that required for the 13.6V ish to charge the battery and run accessories. A higher wattage stator will need a higher wattage regulator. $$$$$$$$ We used Rick's for years.....the latest "problem" I heard about was a xmxmxmx unit that had a strong stator but the voltage regulator used for certain models dies and the regulator is on national back order. NEWLY SOLD UNIT IS UNUSABLE and NO LIGHT AT THE END OF THE TUNNEL. Rick's built up a "custom" regulator to fix the problem that xmxmxmx Engrs could not or would not fix. It is a multi-year screw up so there was time if Rick's worked up a winner in a week why not the OEM Engrs. Contact Rick's and spec a hotter stator and a matching better regulator. Warning: I have had to beef up the stator wires and regulator supply and gnd wires over the stock OEM wiring harness for some real headlights on street bikes.....too much drop in the cheap wiring runs. Just saying, you might have to do some harness upgrades also. Rick's Motorsports Electrics ricksmotorsportelectrics.com

Neutral switch adjustment is required......The NEUTRAL dash LED should also show what is happening. .IF you shut down the engine in a forward gear THEN shift to neutral to restart, the neutral switch movable contact is not making traveling enough for contact. contact. What your are doing by shifting into REV is nudging the contact enough to make. Adjust the linkage slightly to push toward REV position.....watch the NEUTRAL LED.

4th paragraph "n" missing on driven. The driven pulleys spring will REACT to the........ sorry, typo error

Your video is the tell.......you have belt rotation at idle Your belt is rotating AT IDLE with the primary sheaves.......that is a big NO NO. The rear sheaves (transmission input) always pinch and fit tight to the belt sides. The top of the belt is NORMALLY FLUSH to the outer rim of the rear or driven sheaves......your video looks like it is running "deeper" into the sheaves. The front sheaves should be open wide enough for the belt to flop (SIDE CLEARANCE at BELT EDGES) around when the motor is off and then sorta "drag the belt forward" BUT NOT PULL AND ROTATE until the engine Revs go up and thus tighten....as in close and pinch against the belt sides thus making the belt rotate. Go thru the motion of starting to remove the belt again. I assume you are using the rear hub squish screws to "open" thus get some belt slack. Now, in Neutral, with the belt loose, see if it will slip on the drive pulley. On other words, the belt will not "rub" on the sides meaning the front sheaves are opening wide enough for clearance at idle. Compress the rear pulley springs (open up the sheaves) and remove belt to test the action of the drive pulley. Start engine, run at idle, then raise RPMs and watch the drive pulley sheaves collapse together....get narrower....with increased Rs. Drop throttle and the sheaves should return to the wide open distance at idle. I have seen where the cords from a blown/shredded belt get under the shaft bearing (the cylinder sleeve that you see between the drive sheaves) and restrict the required sheave distance travel. If this is the case, the drive sheaves won't open enough and drag tension on the belt and "pull it deeper into the rear pulley"......which the video shows. Like buying the wrong belt and it is not long enough. Take the belt and lay it around only the rear pulley. See if it will ride at the top of the sheave rim with the squish bolts removed. If it does, your problem is with the front or a wrong belt. The drive pulleys spring will REACT to the belt tension. More tension pulls the belt in DEEPER...and that is how it works.....all controlled by the engine RPM and flyweights at the front drive pulley. Speaking of flyweights and the slide bushings wear will also limit the travel of the drive sheave width. Next, load the belt into the front pulley. It should sit deep into the sheaves and have side clearance to where you can pull the belt freely back and forth. BTW, older Polaris drive pulleys had a grooved inner bearing sleeve and the OEM belt had matching grooves in the inside. Some aftermarket belts had the grooves BUT the number and spacing was off....that small amount of "extra material" would cause the belt to drag and pull at idle.....let off brake and away it goes. Bottom line, it is a juggling act for the whole setup to work.

Try and find a dealer/online that carries MOOSE aftermarket parts. The boots are not a problem to obtain.......putting the suckers on is the real problem. Tearing down the CV joint and clean up the debris, rocks, sticks, mud, etc is a messy job. There are also times where the axle shaft will NOT pop out of the hog head and have to be punched out from the opposite side. All said, IF the joint is clean and good grease, there is a NIFTY TOOL made by MOOSE called quick shot??? to expand the small shaft end of the boot and push to over the CV knuckle. It is air powered with about 6 fingers that go inside the boot small end, expand to fit over the 3" or so knuckle and then you release the air pressure and the fingers collapse back to about 1" dia to remove. SLICK because you don't have to break down the axle shaft or try to remove the axle and loose the retaining wire C clip inside the diff. The tool was about $250 a few years back but worth every penny when doing a passel of boot repairs.

Shine pen light into chain and lower sprocket cavity.....just to be sure the chain in on the sprocket. Keep tension on the chain and tie a nylon twist string (not braided as they do not stretch) to the "top" of the timing chain with the other end tied off on the roll cage. The top tie point must be very close to the position the cam gear will install to. Slide in the cam gear and milk the chain around the gear and then keep the chain and gear tight so the chain cannot jump of the lower sprocket. Mount gear to cam and verify the timing dots and sling weights. The 3 hand fix. BEN

Jetting for the fuel enriching circuit ("choke") too small. Older Honda had the same problem resulting in a LEAN spit backfire that took out the starter drive gear teeth.....which attached to the flywheel magnets and shredded the stator and the SS liner and thus knocking off the magnets. Using a copper wire to see-saw the jet opening usually opened up the jet enough. Small # drill bits are usually too agressive on opening the jet up.

ENGINE OFF. Look at primary (PRI) pulley.....does the belt fit "tight" and rubs on the slider sheave......this is what makes the secondary (SEC) pulley spin in neutral. Manually spin the SEC pulley.....does it bind and drag at the PRI pulley? Options for the problem: Some aftermarket belts are cut wrong and the inside groves do NOT match the pulley groves and/or the number of groves are different than the pulley groves. Count both groves and location. The PRI pulley is NOT opening wide enough. Did the belt shred with strings? Sometimes the strings (cords) get UNDER the sliding sheave and bind....keeping the PRI pulley from opening wide enough. Mechanical wear on the slinger weights, the pins, slides, bad rub wear spots inside...requires PRI tear down and tools. Remove belt and hand squeeze the PRI sheave.....no binds and pops back to the idle position with a clunk at the stop. Start motor (no belt installed) rev up and watch the PRI sheave movement. Should close up and then slam back at idle.

The P.S. has me thinking......you mention "Fuel mist" out of the valve rocker cover. All you should is basically NOTHING at crank speed. Any vapors blown out are from blow by (past the rings) into the crankcase. IF you are OVER FUELING and wetting down the cylinder walls (that is, washing off the oil coating) you will have blow by. Oil coating helps seal the rings. That is why an engine that has set (dried out) and low compression is given a shot of WD-40 or any light oil to seal the rings. This leads to the next thought.....If over fueling, the raw gas will "drain" into the crankcase and dilute the motor oil. Check motor oil level.....too high?....too thin?.....wipe on tissue and sniff the oil....Gassy smell?....will light off with a burn test (soak up some oil on a paper towel and see how fast it starts to burn). Oil basically won't. Diesel will start slowly but take off. Gassy oil....if you value the hair on body parts...hold at a distance with long needle pliers!!!! Gassy diluted motor oil will add to the fuel/air mixture via the breather tube. Similar to a turbo seal failure on a diesel......RUNAWAY even after the injector pump shut down...very bad ending! Drain oil and replace filter....won't get it all (always some oil remains that cannot drain) but will dilute the gas. BONUS: Pulling the vent tube will clean up a mystery RICH run be it carb or FI (everything is correct BUT) after the motor warms up and cooks off the gasoline----sorta like an EGR Evap system. Slop fuel never lights off or barely runs depending on the degree of "slop". You state pulling the injector, the engine runs until it runs out of fuel. ARE you leaving the injector hole OPEN. This will allow lots of fresh air into the cylinder and will light off a rich mixture and then die because no more fuel is injected. ASSUME the ECM is sending the correct pulse width to the injector for now. Injector can hang and "piss" instead of spray. The key is the 14.7/1 air fuel mixture. Too RICH.....runs heavy and then dies at idle. May start to run, but as the leftover UNburned charge gets richer-----labors-----pukes. Too Lean......no start....fuel is there but cannot lite off.....then as it builds up, you get a pop only to be to lean again.....repeats the cycle.....THIS IS HELL ON THE STARTER AND REDUCTION GEARS. This also load the oil with gasoline (unburned). Again the fuel correct, look for a restriction in the air intake (not enough air).....common causes....CRITTERS...mouse house....full of acorns....rag pulled in for a nest, and so on. EASY TEST: Remove the air intake plumbing at the throttle body. Plenty of air now. If runs, check out the air box/plumbing. IF NO RUN....next section. Too much fuel: Time to test the ECM/injector system. ANY BAD input signal to the ECM will make the fuel delivery too much or too little. Pull spark plug. Read the insulator tip color. Just right is a light TAN color. Very WHITE...blistered LEAN. RICH has a BLACK, SOOTY, shiny black/wet black (carbon is fuel soaked). If really black, they might fire outside to the engine block BUT "blowout" under compression even at idle. If not too bad, they might run at idle but when sputter and die when a heavy demand on the ignition system (acceleration) is applied....drop in a new plug for testing to just to reduce the possible list of problems. Pull the connector to the fuel pump (under the pass seat). This is the fuel pump power (from ECM) and fuel level signal. No guessing if you found the right fuse/relay. This will stop the fuel delivery (40 PSI) to injector. Injector will still get pulses. You will shoot a short burst of starter fluid into the air box (plumbing reattached and filter OK). The motor should lite off and run until it is out of fuel. Repeat. Repeat. If works every time, give a double burst when running to "sustain" the run. Repeat. If this works, you have the ECM/input signals to ponder. This gets deep for most. Coolant temp sensor....open circuit RICH. Thinks it is at the SOUTH POLE -40 C. Like a choke for carb. Throttle position sensor.....wrong fuel mix to match the air thru the butterfly valve. MAP sensor/ambient air temp....measures engine load....wrong signal rich and lean. O2 sensor....signal to tell if RICH or LEAN. Has heater circuit to get it up to operating temp. Heaters open (toaster that does not toast). Throw in smashed wires, critters that live the taste of plastic insulation on wires, stick run thru harness, heater shorted to SHARP edged heat shield above the exhaust. More common failures are the MAP/IAT (intake air parameters) and O2 sensor. You got a lot of checks to get down to where the problem is. BTW, the ECM is a DELPHI MT05 small engine unit capable of a twin (2 inputs for the two cylinders individual O2 sensors). Check out web page for specs, pin outs for both the Grey and Black connector (PDF format)....magnitudes better than the "manual" supplied when first built. Only covers the electrical engine management with a generic diagram of the analog input(s) and the outputs like fuel pump, ign coil, etc CHOW.

I assume you replaced the speed sensor in the rear diff. The sensor has inside the SS can a magnet and wound wire coil. The end is "looking for" gear teeth as the axle turns---each tooth generates the pulses for the speedo circuit. Chewed up end means the face of the sensor threaded in too deep and is rubbing on the sharp gear teeth......OR the diff is coming apart with the ring gear having radial movement Pull the sensor and look inside the hole and have someone rotate a back raised wheel.....look for "wobble". Inspect the "new" sensor face and check for damage. Not having the sealing washer installed....sensor will thread in DEEPER......RUB/Scrub sensor face. IF no new damage (scratches) OR metal fragments stuck to the magnet, you should be good to go. There are always some floaters the sensors magnet will pick up. The key is if the new one is also chopped up. Adding extra sealing spacer (with sealant) will space the sensor head back away from the gear teeth. The oil supplied should be changed after breaking....seen failures when not replaced. Hope this helps. P.S. If spaced too far from the gear teeth, the sensor won't see them and thus no speedo indication.

What you found is the hardened sealant put on the output shaft/coupling cup. It only looks like a manufactured part as it was "molded" to almost make it look like a 2 stroke rod bearing cage. Clean it good as in getting all the hardened sealant "needles" and oil off. Apply sealant sparingly to the outside of the shaft spline (you don't want a goober pushed into the engine/tranny case). Next, give a good coating to the coupler spline inside (this will be pushed outward to the threaded end when pushed onto the output shaft). This seals the spline/coupler interface. Next coat the washer face surface of the coupler and add some to the cleaned washer face also. Slide on the washer, smashing out a blob of sealant to seal the washer to the coupling and also have some seal to the nut when you buzz down the nut. Use a quality NON-HARDENING SEALANT.

The "power" for the ign and fuel pump is supplied by the ECU outputs. ECU needs +12V @ BLACK connector P. 15 Ign=KEY ON and P. 18 VSS=ALWAYS HOT. Check both as they are fused circuits.....18 always +12v and 15 is 0v KEY OFF and =12V KEY ON.

I cannot find the post....it was for the Massimo (HiSun) 500. The decompression release is built into the valve train cam. Remove cam gear round cover and notice the flyweights and stamped timing dots. The pined disc rotates and the attached rod in the center bore of the valve cam and pushes up a button pin with a cam "flat" on the inside center rod cam in a cam....which hits the exhaust valve follower. At higher RPM, the flyweights sling out, rotates the cam inside the valve cam, and then the button pin retracts below the cam profile.....full compression. Yamaha Rhino had same build error as Massimo.....the sets were identical down the the welds and machining tool marks....SAME VENDOR????? Die grinder work required to obtain the full travel of the flyweights. One of my HiSun reworked cam/decomp assys was "borrowed" to fix a Rhino.....never to return. The post covered the rework of flyweights, the wear gouge the button pin takes out of the cam follower, the small rod cam edge that wears round (less button pin lift), the error of adjusting the exhaust valve clearance with the decomp pin raised (up at low RPM thus need to manually rotate flyweights to lower pin button for adjustment OR turn the cam to be sure you are OFF the button...watch the follower for the "jump" coming off the pin).

decompression release problems will give the "stall" and require multiple hits to get it to finally crank over. Valve adjustment (exhaust) is critical to the decomp pin opening the valve. Other problem is the actual decomp assy worn or a groove chipped out in the cam follower where the pin rubs at low RPM. See older post of mine on the decomp assy in the cam....interchangeable with Rhino....identical down to the welds and flyweight interference problem.

Do you have a mini-fuel tank (1 Pint) hanging behind the pass seat? Do you have the vac pulse fuel pump...little box with fuel IN/fuel OUT/vac hose to carb area. Yes, can be hooked up wrong. Seen a previous post of the whole setup picture diagram that was good. DOCTOR parts stove was source (forgot exact handle). Pump has IN and OUT with vac signal usually a smaller port. INPUT is suction so no leaks to a good in-tank fuel filter---meaning can gas be sucked into the pump input? Vac signal---no leaks in hose and connected to manifold. OUTPUT goes to the little tank and partly fills the tank to the OVERFLOW RETURN level connects back to the fuel tank. The fuel level is above the carb so fuel flows to the carb bowl. Use a test tank (no pressure just gravity feed) to the carb----if runs ok, go back to the input of the tiny tank----same test. You are just subbing the test tank for the fuel pump. Also seen instances of where customers replumbed trying to get away from dry starts (setting for a time and fuel evaps). BTW, this set up sucks.....fuel starve (as is sputter and die) then going UP HILL for extended time. Tank is "lower" relative to the carb in "nose up" position and there is not enough gravity to fill the carb bowl completely in this high demand situation. Low pressure (carb) electric fuel pump is the fix. Gas fills carb in a few seconds instead of cranking the guts out of starter to get the pump/mini-tank/carb bowl filled. Golf carts love this fix.

GY-------GR/BK BK-------GY WHT-----L GRN VIO------WHT/BK

Rhino has a snubber diode in series with power feed from IGN switch. Clones also have same. The diode OPENS.....thus no power to FAN. Test by jumping in 12V when radiator warm. If thermo switch is good and no air in coolant....have fan. The bad part.....the diode is part of the wiring harness. Hard wire the "jumper" IGN switch feed and don't waste time looking for diode. Post back results.

Quick and dirty checks. Do a compression test....thumb over spark plug blow off test.....should pop off good. Next spark and at correct timing...should spark when thumb is blown off on compression stroke. FUEL. Pull injector connector.....this keeps injector from squirting fuel. Give a couple shots of starter fluid into air box filter. If engine is solid, spark good, compression good, motor will run a couple seconds until fluid is burned off. This means a fuel problem. 40 PSI pump pressure req'd. Pump runs with KEY ON for a few seconds to build up pressure....stops until engine cranked over. Injector ECM electrical pulses to fire injector. Remove injector from intake and check for fuel mist. These checks should guide you in the right direction and narrow down problem instead of throwing parts at it.

Round. Flat spots are worn "sliders" and not rotating up and down the ramp. Check for belt debris wedged under the sheave....usually cord threads with some rubber attached.

The cable "pulls" the lever and thus cams the pads together in the calipers. Reassy with slack in the cable and then adjust (tighter) to no drag at RELEASE and but make sure it will hold on a hill when set before end of pedal travel. After thought...woods riding can snag a cabe and pull the brake tight.

Need more details. Tranny to Neutral. Raise both rear wheels on jack stands. Park brake disc is on diff drive shaft. Have assistant rotate any side rear wheel...open diff....opposite rear wheel will turn in reverse direction. If TRUE, diff is ok. Try to rotate drive shaft, if park brake locked.....NO GO. Have seen master cyl hold pressure to FR and RR locking them up....thus the jackstand test. Lever has stepped rack, button release....problem with release? Cable stuck in sheath? Mechanical brake cam/lever stuck on full pad pressure. Need answers to go forward.

The cam follower's "slipper pad" was the problem in some units I worked on. The cam was ground square but the rubbing pad mating surface was NOT parallel . Result was the valve spec gap went from zero on one side to excessive on the opposite side. Think of a well abused grinding wheel before truing it back up. High contact pressure OR a lubrication problem failure. Check head for blocked oil passages. Seen silicone sealant "goobers" from previous repairs get chopped up in the oil pump only to block off oil passages. Check for above.

Do tests on diff for the 3 positions of the rack block L to R. Do tests on servo motor by switching the dash buttons and watch the pinion gear....should have 3 stops to match the diff rack.