Travis

40 KPH comes out to 24 MPH.

Oh, does this use a filter like these? Where you actually put it "in" the engine, and put the cap on over the end? Most likely those screws do need torqued, but usually both of them being snug should be adequate, might call or email Ode's and get a torque spec.

What's the End Cap on this machine?

i remember when hurricane Harvey hit here in 2017, bottled water prices went through the roof, mainly at convience stores.... makes it convenient for them to take your money,

Money has power.

I Price Checked at Babbitt's online, they want $82... and i've come to find their prices are always at least $20-30 less than my local dealership.

I know right! I need to start a career in that work

I'm glad i found the NOS $25 kawasaki gear on ebay, cause the dealer wants North of $85. https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-NOS-OEM-Kawasaki-Starter-Drive-Clutch-Sub-Assembly-KAF300-Mule-13081-2164/273909912852?epid=1323748703&hash=item3fc64d9514:g:EOYAAOSwZoBdGB7C

I'm glad i found the NOS $25 kawasaki gear on ebay, cause the dealer wants North of $85.

that's all i could find. the starter brushes, and armature all looked good.

I thought about it, i looked at it, and is in better shape.. but not mint shape.. but that starter was already 5 years old, i'd hate for that one to give out in a few months... that bottom starter bolt is Heck to get to.

appears to be, it's definitely not as hard as the previous starter gear... oh well, what do you expect for $50. i also made sure the engine wasn't too hard to turn over... it's not. about like every other 9hp engine i've worked on.

AND THE SUSPECT IS..<DRUM ROLL> The CHEAP CHINESE STARTER GEAR. My dad helped me today, we tried lubing and cleaning, never worked, cleaned all the relay connections etc. then we installed the starter, hooked everything up. BUT left the starter un bolted, and sitting ontop of the engine (ran a alligator clip from the solenoid bolt to ground), it spun up every time, closer inspection the so called "steel" gear has kind of mushroomed on the end of the teeth. the flywheel teeth are good. so i guess the gear was hanging on the flywheel enough to not let the solenoid retract all the way and that's why tapping the starter, NOT the solenoid would work. i'm debating either filing them a bit, OR, i can purchase the OEM Kawasaki gear on ebay for 25 bucks. that gear should fit this starter as the starter is a copy of the original. that's what i'm hoping.

14.4 is plenty. usually as long as your at least 13 volts it idle, you're good. as a B&S Tech i know says, "the alternator is made for maintaining, not charging a dead battery"

I haven't had time to look at it, probably will tomorrow morning.

How can we know this is legit and not a scam?

Has everyone gotten their PRO's yet?

i would check for continuity on the wire it protects, from the wire to ground just in case any insulation has been wore off.

That's what I was thinking

I took my rubber mallet out earlier and held the key in start position and tapped on the starter motor itself, not the solenoid. And it kicked over after about 3 good taps.

Yeah, I still have the old DB electrical starter,

new, but made in Chyna. never heard back from the seller. which is a huge red flag, cause it literally started acting up like 3 days after the 1 month replacement guarantee ran out.

I'm also wondering if it's a mechanical issue, in the starter. because after the previous starter went out, and i replaced it with this starter, it worked great for about 4 weeks.

i've got a test light, i might try and see what voltage, if any, i get to the 2nd post of the solenoid (that goes to the starter motor) when it clicks.

the wires that come into the starter circuit relay, i've check for continuity, nothing to ground, (no shorts) i failed to mention, i was only able to clean where the switch wires plug into the harness, not the switch itself, appears to be all one piece. Kawasaki wants $75 for a key switch. Cheapos on Scamazon are $30. i reall don't want to keep throwing money at this. I really don't see how it could be anything else as all it is is 2 wires on the solenoid, big battery cable and the trigger wire, the trigger wire has the correct voltage as spec'd by the manual (battery voltage). EDIT: even when the solenoid clicks, i still get the correct voltage on the trigger wire.